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  1. Here's the kit contents of the BlueJacket Mary Taylor pilot boat. The kit comes with copper tape, but I will be using individual plates on this model.
  2. I am building the Mantua Albatros Art 771 kit from the 1980s. I am trying to create a belaying plan for the ship. The main mast is simple, but the fore mast is quite complex. The Mantua plans show only the basic standing rigging, and show none of the running rigging. I have eleven books that discuss sailing ship rigging, including the standards Steel, Lees, Biddlecombe, Lever, etc., but these describe full square-rigged ships and are mostly useless for deriving a schooner rigging and belaying plan. After detailed discussions of how to rig the lines on the masts, spars and sails they all finish by saying the line "runs to the deck." I do have several books that talk specifically about schooner rigging (Petersson, Underhill, Leather, Hahn, Marquardt). Most of these also say to run the line "to the deck" or "to the rail." Again, no help. Petersson's "Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft" shows the belaying plan for a topsail schooner, and is the best reference I have found, but it doesn't describe the variations found on different ships. Underhill's "Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier" has far and away the best an most detailed discussion of ship rigging I have found, but it is mostly for full-rigged ships, with only a brief discussion of schooners. Marquardt's "Global Schooner" has good detail about rigging but it also says the lines run "to the deck." Leather's "The Gaff Rig Handbook" is nearly useless, having no useful index and focusing mainly upon 20th century racing yachts. So I have been left to my own devices to figure out how to belay the fore mast rigging. I am using two assumptions. First, lines coming down from purchases close to or on the mast lead down to ring bolts or fife rails at the base of the mast (or pins, cleats or spider bands on the mast), and lines running from the yard arms run down to the pin rails or cleats on the bulwarks or to ring bolts in the waterways near the bulwarks. Second, lines from lower purchases lead forward, and lines from higher positions lead aft. The idea is to avoid crossing lines. Here is my working plan: As you can see, there are 35 running rigging lines coming down from the foremast (not counting studding sails!). The base of the mast seems a bit crowded with 21 standing and running lines attached to ring bolts in the deck and pins in the fife rail. To achieve this I had to run the fore course bunt lines and clew lines outboard to the pin rails even though they lead from the lower top and the quarters of the fore course yard. I would appreciate comments and corrections from those who understand belaying better than I do. NOTE: I expect that as I start rigging the mast I will to have to reorder some of these positions to eliminate fouled lines.
  3. Dear Colleagues, please let me present my first model made from the ground-up – the model of French military schooner «La Jacinthe». From the drafts of the monography Jean Boudriot. I used pear tree and painted hornbeam. Scale 1:42 Technical characteristics of the model: length 895 mm, width 285 mm, height 670 mm. In the process of building I have used as example the works of Dmitriy Shevelev and Slavyan Snarlev. I finished my work on the 23 of September 2016. I had a photo report of the work, I decided to post it, maybe it could useful to someone. My best regards, Alexander.
  4. Hello there! I introduced myself over on the New Member Intros' thread yesterday. Click here for link. To paraphrase that post: My name is Gary. I'm an animator by trade and teach at my local college. The reason I'm here is to seek advice with an unusual build. I've been tasked by the Manx National Heritage foundation to produce and animate a virtual model of The Peggy of Castletown, reported to be the oldest surviving schooner in the world. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peggy_of_Castletown The hope is to gain public interest in the boat to the point where she can be restored and displayed for public viewing. She's currently housed in a climate-controlled industrial warehouse unit. I've been lucky enough to explore what remains of the vessel and I'm currently researching how she might have been rigged for sail. I'm hopeful that someone here may have an idea of how these early vessels were finished. This will be my research and 'build' thread. So, on to specifics. You can see some basic info on the Peggy here on Wikipedia. A lot of the original craft survives, along with (separated) masts, cannon and a few sundries. There's no surviving sail or rigging which is where I'll be doing some research and taking advice. Here are a few screenshots of a video I shot when I visited her.
  5. I am modelling HM schooner Whiting which was built in 1805. The Admiralty drawings for the sister ship Haddock show some features around the fore ladderway which I find tricky to interpret and would appreciate comments and advice. The first picture is an extract from the plan view and shows the main hatch, fore ladderway. chimney hole, and fore mast. It all looks fairly conventional. The second picture is a side view that includes the ladderway and the area aft (to the left) of it. The hatch has a lid as we would expect but there is what looks like another, lower hatch that extends aft from it. This does not appear on the plan view and might just be some light structure or even something in the bulwarks. Marquardt in 'The Global Schooner' states that a hatch cover over a ladderway would usually be hinged so that it can be opened with one hand. He is usually very good at giving references but this time it appears to be a reasoned assertion and the drawing he provides looks reasonable. The extra structure on the Admiralty drawing could be a support for the lid to keep it off the deck when it is open. I have added a copy of Marquardt's drawing here. (Buy the book if you are building a schooner!). Goodwin in 'The Naval Cutter Alert' has drawings for a sliding hatch. In the extract below (5) is the sliding cover and (3) is a fixed cover, (13) is a rail for the sliding cover. This looks like a better match for the Admiralty drawing for Haddock and I would guess that it is based on other Admiralty drawings. (Buy this book too if you are making a small vessel from late 1700s to early 1800s!) My inclination is to use the sliding hatch but I have a couple of reservations. One is that a sliding cover jams easily if the force is not even on both sides. The other is that the fixed cover just goes over bare deck and does not serve a useful purpose. It has the appearance of a shallow box that cannot be opened. It could be to stop the crew tripping over the slide rails, but then it has to be strong enough for them to stand on it while working. It looks like a lot of effort to support the rails. Does anyone have information about sliding or hinged hatch covers? George
  6. Post 1 early November, the process begins Superb log a 1:24 kit bash This project is intended to celebrate the building of the first Schooner by the Hodgdon family, now in its fifth generation of ship building on the Boothbay Peninsula. There are several firsts that could have been chosen as the builder started in 1816 and then migrated east across the peninsula and then south to the East Boothbay Mill area over these first ten years. Before we make any decisions, we must first thank and give credit to Barbara Rumsey who tirelessly researched, and fortunately for us published her work tracing this history around Boothbay. In the Book Hodgdon Shipbuilding and Mills, A documentary History of the first hundred years, 1816-1916, published in 1995, Barbara tells us the story. To help with this upcoming exhibit, my first thought is to build a diorama depicting the final stages of building this schooner in the late spring of 1816. To do this work I have expanded research into re reading sections from some favorite authors. There are no surviving half hulls and many of the Hodgdon firm’s records were burned in a fire many years ago. I felt that it would be safe to take the plans created by Howard Chapelle. Even better I found that there is a recent kit using Howard’s design for the 1939 version of the pinky that was built and he apparently sailed before WWII. As I begin this project, I am in the process of moving to a new home and needing to rebuild a shop from scratch. That means lots of good news in the opportunity to improve the working environment. but an obvious crunch in time for me to have this done by next May. I bought the Glad Tidings kit with its great set of his plans. At the 1:24 scale it represents 39 feet long deck and 40 +/- top of rails and if I go back to the peak of the stern I can get to 42ft.?. This is one of those rationalization conversations. The first decision is what convention to use for hull length. I will quickly take a leap of faith that these history books and lists use the length of deck from inside the taff rail to the forward most point of deck. That was pretty well confirmed in the schooner books I read while researching earlier builds. But what records did they keep confirming what they meant for the tax records, used in Ms. Rumsey’s research, to determine lengths of vessels. If I want 42 feet, I have some choices: Do I build it as is? If I am wrong, it is only a few percent…so it should be ok. But then a diorama with a schooner roughly 29 inches long including all rigging is tough to do. On the other hand, I do not have time to recreate too much. This is not a build to go to frames unless I want to show something under construction. Do I scan the mold plans and adjust the scale to replicate a 42-foot schooner? I could drop to 3/8 scale = 16 inches +/- on deck or even ¼ scale = 10 inches deck to roughly 15 inches +/- overall which I think in the end is easier to do in a diorama if I want to show the launch. · The second decision is …am I building the first schooner built in Boothbay or by the first builder of Boothbay. Superb was not built in Boothbay but next door by a Boothbay builder… the first schooner he built in Boothbay was Ruby in 1823 maybe or Betsy 1824 surely. Both were pinky shaped and of similar size. So, we have the boat, we just need to settle on the name and town. Diorama option 1: build at 1:24 To build the kit hull through the deck. Then to show construction activities around the schooner. Perhaps rigging a mast and or the rudder. This would use up the kit material and get to a timely delivery. The problem is with the large size there will be little room to have things around. Think of the huge figures etc. Diorama option 2: build the above in 1:48 There are other considerations. If I simply use the plans for this build, what do I do with the kit. I find that Hodgdon built a 59-footer just 13 years later after they had arrived in east Boothbay. The largest Pinkies were built around 1831 at 69 feet. I would say looking at the list however that was an odd ball and not the norm. Also one does not just up the scale, one needs to research what was stretched to add 20-25 feet to a 40 foot schooner. After that large build, the “pinky’ classification stayed around the 39-42-foot version. That all makes sense to me because Howard Chapelle was a lot smarted than me, and he chose this size for his developed plan. Even so to build bigger would extend middle sections of the hull in some way that cannot be my design, so do I use kit parts for my material inventory and trash the molds or go ahead with one at 1:24. Diorama Option 3 only use the plans and raw material. I am considering to build at 1:48 or 1:64 Superb was believed to have been built on Westport Island. That is about three miles west of us. At the time it was part of the town of Edgecomb, which is the northern third of the Boothbay peninsula. Since after the move to East Boothbay in about 1823, the Hodgdon boat works remained there until today. 01 Here we have a modern google image of the east Boothbay harbor with the active Hodgdon boat works. This property was purchased much later than the period we are discussing. It was infact sold again last year to Washburn and Doughty. In the 19th century the Hodgdon boat works included all the land where the marina is now located. That was sold in 1970. Not long after that ventrue it became ocean Point Marina. The adjacent ship builders park is the once owned by the Reeds but changed hands a few times. The famous Adams yard where two four masted schooners were built in 1893 and 1890. was located where today Washburn and Doughty builds large sea going tugs and fire boats for offshore oil rigs. Caleb Hodgdon both the builder of Superb and its owner relocated to start the Hodgdon Mills in what is East Boothbay today. He also maintained ownership of the 42-foot Superb for many years. So perhaps I scale down and scratch build a 1:48 or 1:64 inch water line model resting on a mooring to be Superb and then a partially framed hull in the yard being build and I change the year to 1824 and call it Betsey or Ruby that were built there. I would use the rigging on the moored vessel and have the deck and a few things completed on the model. I might just bread and butter water line up the build up everything I am not building on the new one. If the new one is under construction, I can have incomplete planking and not worry about copper and all the other niceties that I see in the painting I have been studying done by Lane As to the look, I am going to depend on artists views of the mid 19th century and not the new reconstructions of brightly colored Pinkies that sail today. 02 Here we see one of many internet photos of models and that closely follow the paintings on coloring. 03 Here is an internet image of the proper coloring of the era. I say that because there are several contemporary paintings by lane also posted that clearly show the conservative coloring [black] with the copper bottoms and dark green under the wales. It is interesting to see all the bright colors of the later versions. Action for November I am entering a month of moving from one house to another and building a shop. I need to put together the frame from the kit and get going. No mater what option this build ends up with, the kit needs to be built up through the hull basically as intended, so here we go. RC follow up options. This is my overall plan to have scaled details static models at sensible scale and the simple built up RC versions. No more Bluenoses too detailed to sail at 7 feet long Since I may also build a 1:12 radio sail pinky after this diorama, I even suggest three possible builds all on one log. 1 build out the kit to have something to show next spring likely to be built through the deck and men working above deck 2 build the diorama at 1:48 or 1:64 with two boats. With enough time I could draw the fill in frames and have some areas without deck and planking as a better view of the building of a schooner. 3 build the rc. At 1:12 I plan a similar rebuild of Bowdoin as RC but that is another story. Much to think about I think time will be the ultimate factor in this decision. I have no tools now, so thinking and sketching is what I have. This writing as usual helps, me focus and draw conclusions. The plans are even packed in a box, and I have no idea in which one, so I have nothing to scan to play with in cad. I have no idea if this is a kit bash or a scratch diorama within which I use some of the kit. I am not building Glad Tidings as advertised, but will surely give them credit. I spoke about this posting question to colleagues at the New Bedford NRG Conference, and they agreed it is sometimes perplexing but not too important. My conclusion is I am kit bashing of Superb into a diorama as per option 1......we'll see Cheers
  7. I have not personally built nor have I seen a fully framed model of a Grand Banks fishing schooner so I thought it would a fun project to try. There is a lot of information available on the Effie M. Morrissey, including a reasonable set of plans that are available from the Library of Congress, she is available to visit in her modern configuration, and there are folks in Massachusetts that have been more than willing to answer questions, so she seemed to me to be a good choice. The following is a compilation of her history from the internet, “so it must be true!” She was designed by George McClain and was the last fishing schooner built for the Wonson Fish Company. She was built with white oak and yellow pine and took four months to complete. She was launched February 1, 1894. Her hull was painted black and her first skipper was William Edward Morrissey, who named her after his daughter Effie Maude Morrissey. She fished out of Gloucester for eleven years then began fishing out of Nova Scotia. In 1914, ownership moved to Brigus, Newfoundland where Harold Bartlett used her as a fishing and coasting vessel along the Newfoundland and Labrador coasts. In 1925 Harold Bartlett sold her to his cousin, Captain Bob Bartlett, an Arctic explorer. Bob Bartlett had an auxiliary engine installed and reinforced the hull for use in the Arctic. In 1926 with financial help from publisher George Putnam , Bartlett began 20 years of exploration using the Effie. When Captain Bartlett passed away in 1946, Effie was sold to the Jackson brothers to carry mail and passengers in an inter-island trade in the South Pacific. On their voyage to the Pacific she developed problems at sea, forcing the crew to return to New York. On December 2, 1947, the boat caught fire while docked at the boat basin in Flushing, New York. The schooner was repaired and sold to Louisa Mendes in Massachusetts at which time she entered the packet trade in a trans-Atlantic crossing to Cape Verde. Upon reaching the islands, Captain Mendes re-registered the schooner under the name Ernestina, after his own daughter, and used her in inter-island trade. Ernestina made a number of transatlantic voyages and fell into disrepair at Cape Verde, where she remained until the late sixties when there was interest in the U.S. to save her. In 1977 the people of Cape Verde made a gift of Ernestina to the U. S. In August 1982 her hull was completely rebuilt and she sailed to the United States. In August 1988 the schooner made a return trip to Brigus, Newfoundland, on the 113th anniversary of Capt. Bob Bartlett’s birth. Ernestina was designated as a National Historic Landmark i with restoration being completed in 1994, and in 1996 became a part of the New Bedford Whaling National Historical Park. She is currently owned by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts. Effie is the oldest surviving Banks fishing schooner; the only surviving 19th century Gloucester-built fishing schooner; one of two remaining examples of the Fredonia-style schooners (the other being the Lettie G. Howard,) the only offshore example of that type; and one of two sailing Arctic exploration vessels left afloat in the United States. This is the fourth model going onto the building board in the attached photos. The model will be based on how she looked in 1894. In the photos you can see that the keel has a piece temporarily attached so it will sit at about a 2 degree angle to match the "drag" and make it easier to check that the frames are 90 degrees to the water lines (building board plane.) I am using Castello box for the keel and deadwood. The plans do not show a shelf along the bearding line of the fore or aft frames. Looking at photos of a rebuild of the schooner Virginia, there are no steps nor shelf. I have no idea if there was one on the original build. More to come, I hope. Allan
  8. Greetings to all! Gaining more air in the chest, begin with an overview of the ship model "La Jacinte". Exactly one year ago I started this project, pre-assessing their own capabilities and finances. The choice of this prototype is primarily due to the fact that the model is repeatedly built by other modelers, reviewed many aspects of the construction, a simple mast and rigging, a small amount of artillery, and just a beautiful ship! Personally I really like the oblique sailing weapons! And so, to view!
  9. This new building log is meant to tell a long and broken tale of model building. The serious work began a few months ago when I decided to try to rescue this model and take it further along. Perhaps to stop it with a deck only completion since it would be so big to include rigging, or to breeze through and design removable rigging to allow sailing. Before we get in to that dialogue I thought it best to tell the saga of the 15 years to get it here. Fortunately that will only take a few posts. so here we go again I started to learn the trade, and truly I still am really only learning, by setting up a small shop in the early 1990's, at a former summer home here in Maine and building a wooden kit of a Dark Harbor 17 at 1:12 scale sometime in the later 90's. Like many I was working away and had dreams to be relaxing in a shop but realty kept us away. I never worked closer than 3 hours from this summer home and usually further. During these years I thought about wanting to build models that would sail. I had roughly ten years to go before retirement and thought that was time to try a few things and figure it out. My first venture was to buy an Antique Marblehead Pond yacht, vintage 1936. I restored it partially and then copied it building a new replica. In august 2001 I went to the wooden boat school in Brooklin Maine with my son for a fun vacation and learned to build a 50 inch new Marblehead class pond yacht. They were called Naskeags. They are pretty but built purely for the challenge of sailing. Then looking at the half built dark harbor hull, at 17 inches, and the half built Marblehead Naskeag at 50 inches I decided on a goal. I would continue to build kits or scratch of classic boats to develop some skill. I would continue to read and read some more about the maritime history as well as model building, and thirdly i would continue to build sailable pond yachts to get some to sail. Ultimately I would learn to scratch build classic boats at a large enough scale that would respect the design but also try their luck in the sea....harbor or pond at least. Gloucester Schooners were also first on my mind for a challenge. When did we start this build??? Some of you have followed my earlier attempts with a four masted schooner the Charles Notman and the classic 1938 Boothbay Harbor One design racing sloops . Well here we have a boat construction that spans the whole period of 2001 until now. Here we see the 1992 to 2004 shop. I got to spend a few weeks a year there prior to 2000 and then weekends. You can see the two Marblehead pond yachts that filled much of my time . Hidden just out of the picture on the right is the partially built Dark harbor model. Most important on the back left is the building board and stations for a scratch build Gloucester fishing schooner that will become the basis of this build. This photo is dated 2002 At the time I built this frame, my memory tells me incorrectly as I recently figured out, that is built it up form Gertrude's lines. With the outgrowth of windows 98 and Auto CAD lt 97 it is not surprising that I no longer have any of the cad I did for this build. Here you can see the roughness of the build. I was clearly over my head at the time and fortunately stopped. The keelson assembly is made of three laminated 1/2 sheets of plywood so it is strong and true. [ It includes keel, stem, keelson and made up structure up to the the transom based on pond yacht construction methods... See my other log for detail] This method is Good for sailing but the forward stem is a problem [ you will see later]. Is she Gertrude Thebaud, Columbia or Bluenose??? I could write for pages but the short version is as follows. I read that Columbia was the same size as Bluenose and considered to be the fastest ever built. Unfortunately she died young. Here is the text from Ship Wiki ...remember length on deck 141 feet · Columbia is a Gloucester Fishing Schooner. It was built by Arthur Dana Story from the design of Starling Burgess, at Essex, MA, 1923. The Columbia represents the final development of the Gloucester fishing schooner, famous for speed and seaworthiness. It participated a number of international races, including the one against Bluenose in Halifax. In August 1927 when it was hit by the two Gales, the well-known "Graveyard of the Atlantic", Columbia was lost with all hands off Sable Island. · For years my memory was I had decided to build Gertrude. All my files said it etc. anyway part of the reason is in the following text from wikipedi....remember length on deck 135 feet · \Gertrude L. Thebaud was an American fishing and racing schooner built and launched in Essex, Massachusetts in 1930. A celebrated racing competitor of the Bluenose,[1] it was designed by Frank Paine and built by Arthur D. Story for Louis A. Thebaud, and named for his wife, Gertrude Thebaud.[2] In their first meeting at Gloucester, Massachusetts, in October 1930, the Gertrude L. Thebaud bested the Bluenose 2-0 to win the Sir Thomas Lipton International Fishing Challenge Cup.[3] However, in 1931, two races to none, and again in 1938, three races to two, the Bluenose defeated the Gertrude L. Thebaud to remain the undefeated holder of the International Fisherman's Trophy.[4] I further learned that she went to the arctic in 1934 with MacMillan one year as Bowdoin stayed home. I continued to think I was going to build her and I remembered incorrectly that I had taken measurements from her scanned set of prints when I built the frame.......you'll see Bluenose. Here is intro from wiki pedia ....and again please remember length on deck 143 feet · Bluenose was designed by William Roué and built by Smith and Rhuland in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. She was launched on 26 March 1921, and christened by Audrey Marie Smith.[citation needed] She was built to be a racing ship and fishing vessel, in response to the defeat of the Nova Scotian fishing schooner Delawana by the Gloucester, Massachusetts fishing schooner Esperanto in 1920, in a race sponsored by the Halifax Herald newspaper.[citation needed] Bluenose vs. Gertrude L. Thebaud, International Fishermen's Trophy, 1938, final race ·After a season fishing on the Grand Banks of Newfoundland under the command of Angus Walters, Bluenose defeated Elsie (out of Gloucester), returning the International Fishermen's Trophy to Nova Scotia. In 1930, off Gloucester, Massachusetts, she was defeated 2–0 in the inaugural Sir Thomas Lipton International Fishing Challenge Cup by perhaps her most celebrated competitor, the Gertrude L. Thebaud.[2] However, over the next seven years of racing, no challenger, American or Canadian, could take the title from her.[3] The question again...which to build There are so many Bluenose models I thought for a long time about making an American boat. The designers Starling Burgess and Frank Paine come up again and again. The 1937 Ranger for us here in Maine is a big deal. The fact a new replica of Columbia sails and all who see her say she is a marvel. [ Images of the replica is easy to find on the net]. Well to be honest there is a funny story here on me how in the end the model became Bluenose. To make the original frame in 2001-2002 I obtained the 3/16 scale rough model plans from Piel Craftman in Newburyport, MA for both models BN and GT. While I was in his shop however I fell in love with another boat named Dancing feather. My rear admiral feels the feather is one of prettiest schooners she has seen so guess what took priority. On again off again working on vacations and moving houses to our current home [ means rebuild a shop] only it took from 2004 to 2012 to get this one far along and it was a real rough job much of which may be redone. Here she is a year ago moving away to live in the new sail loft and thus make room for Charles Notman to hold the shop entrance way display area. I had made her 3/4 scale to size at 50 inches on deck. I will never work in that odd scale again. In the mean time, I was assigned to work in Canada for 3 plus years and while I was there came across a set of really nice 1/4 scale drawings of Bluenose. These I now see are easy to get on line as are similar plans for Columbia. They are both drawing by Philip Eisnor and available though a sister site modleshipbuilder. Finally...we start again It is summer 2012. I am assigned to travel overseas but spend several weeks through the summer here in Maine. What to do...... Please look at my other two builds [ Charles Notman and Boothbay Harbor one design] for detailed discussions on the sailable hull build method. The plans were scanned, plumbed and inserted to CAD. The white paper inside on aft stations was printed off and attached to luan plywood. Blue tape separated a 1/32 birch plywood strip rib. The cedar is rough milled from 1"/6" stock to be 5/32 [ which only means 1/8 - 0 +1/16 tolerance] by 5/16 . We want to start faring the hull with no less than 1/8th wood thickness. Planks soaked in ammonia water then wood glue and toothpick pinning to the sstations through the ribs.. Here the laminations for the Keelson assembly are clear [see Notman build] . Notice there is no transom at this point. almost finished. See the roughness of the bow. As I said i was way over my head when I started this hull. Here we have all planking on and sanded. And here she goes back up to the ceiling for storage....it's 2012. and I am still thinking we are building Gertrude Thebaud. They sent me away for work again and it was another year before I could really focus on my modeling goals. This was the year I found forums like this one and started reading articles , sites like models of dummies, practicums and building logs. I was getting ready cheers
  10. The Centerboard fishing schooner C. Chase was built about 1846 by Willliam Skinner & Sons for Wellfleet, Mass. owners. From the National Watercraft Collection by Howard Chapelle: "It represents a type much favored in the Chesapeake oyster fishery...Some were shoal-draft keel vessels of the pungy type, others were centerboarders like the C. Chase, but all had sharp lines and were designed for speed...Their centerboards, and the mast as well, were usually off the centerline of the hull to bring the board far enough aft to give the proper balance to the rig used. They carried large sail areas and lofty masts. At about the time this schooner was built, the longhead began to replace the "naval head" in the Chesapeake." If anyone an explain the longhead vs the "Naval head", I'd appreciate it. The lines were taken from a Builders Half-Model in the U.S. National Museum [USNM 76098] and presented in the book and offered by the Smithsonian. Length between perpendiculars: 60 '- 7" Moulded beam: 19' - 2" Depth of hold: 5' If anyone has more information about the size of the "lofty masts", please let me know. I have recently seen an old photo of a similar boat with REALLY tall masts. Maury
  11. Hello All, I have started modeling again. It's not like I haven't had time. But have been wood working and bee box building. Having fun. But getting back to modeling now. I am getting back to my re-build of my Lady Kathrine, my Echo Cross Section, and now the Hannah. Been studying up on all the chapters Bob has supplied with the kit. It also included 2 cd's with very detailed pic's on the build. I am considering rigging the ship since I have all the info I need for the model. It will be given to my oldest daughter Victoria. The reason is simple. Her 2 very best friends are named Hannah. I will be getting very detail on my progress, because that is just my way. It is to help others, plus if someone sees I am doing something wrong, Please let me know. I will be starting the build board tomorrow. I will not be posting pictures as regularly as I use to, because my spare time goes in different directions with 3 kids at home. But i will post a lot of pictures and explanations of my build progress. Thanks for stopping by....
  12. Étoile is a French naval schooner used as a training vessel. She was built in 1932 as a replica of a cod fishing vessel used off Iceland, as a training ship of the students of the École navale. During the Second World War, Étoile sailed to the United Kingdom after the Fall of France and was used by the Free French Naval Forces, returning to Brest in 1945. The schooner as well as her sister ship Belle Poule are still used by the École Navale as training ships in European waters. In the early 20th Century, the French Navy scrapped its aging traditional sailing ships, Melpomène in 1904, and Borda in 1914. In the following years, it emerged that student officers would benefit from at least some sailing training. Since it would consist only in short cruises around Brest rather than long cruises, the school decided not to build a three-masted ship. Instead, it chose a replica of a cod fishing schooner, which had the advantage of being both maneuverable, and strong enough to sustain the weather of the winter around Brest. in 1931, the Ministry of the Navy ordered two such ships, as to allow enough of the students to embark at the same time. The first was Belle Poule, and the second, Étoile. Étoile was launched on 7 July 1932, at the unusual hour of 1 in the morning. Lieutenant Richard, who oversaw construction for the Navy, was worried that Étoile would not be completed for the launch date, and had had an argument with Lemaistre, the engineer in charge of construction. Lemaistre proceeded to the launch in the night of the day chosen for the ceremony, and officials coming for the occasion were surprised to find Étoile already afloat.
  13. Hello Just started building the Brigantine Schooner "Gigino", an Italian sailing Vessel from the Early 20th century. Actually I'm very fond of Schooners and Ocean Paddle Steamers as well, and I plan to work on "Barquentine cote d'émeraude" in the near future, ((supposing that I find the Plan (I hope so)). I'll follow the same technique, which is Double planking on Bulkheads. The first layer of planks will be 3 mm Balsa wood to get a tough body, while the second is 1.5 mm is to get a natural wood finish look. I guess it won't be easy to find a 1.5 mm Balsa wood with clear wood grain appearance and it would need some research to use coloring to get that look. Thank you Models in Progress L'Etoile Vapor Rimac 1848 -  a side Wheel Paddle Steamer Previous Models Bluenose II
  14. I’m taking a break from the Victory and building the Prince de Neufchatel from plans in American Sailing Ships by Howard I. Chapelle. So far I’ve traced the hull lines and resized them to 1/72 scale.
  15. The Topsail Schooner “Eagle” had a length of 81’ 7”, beam of 22’ 8”, depth of 7’ 10”, and tonnage of 140 tons. Both the “Eagle” and her sistership “Arrowsic” were built in Arrowsic Island on the Kennebec River (near the present shipbuilding city of Bath, ME) in 1847 for the lumber and ice trade by builder Samuel Pattee. During the mid-19th century small schooners of this sort were widely employed in the East Coast trade; their schooner rigs an easy adaption to the prevailing westerly winds and economy in crew size. The model was scratch built to a scale of 3/16” to the foot (1:64) using old Model Shipways plans by William Zakambell. Additional research was conducted at the Maine Maritime Museum in Bath, ME where a large scale model of the “Arrowsic” is on display. The model is plank on solid construction, with built up bulwarks, planked decks and topsides, coppered bottom, and scratch built deck furniture/fittings. Limited commercial fittings were utilized where appropriate, and the rigging is proportional linen line with Warner Woods’ blocks. The Topsail Schooner “Eagle” is my 3rd wooden ship model and my 1st scratch build. Pete Jaquith Shipbuilder
  16. This will be my build log for a scratch-built, 1:32 scale, plank-on-frame, admiralty style model of "Hannah", purportedly the first armed ship recruited into Washington's navy during the Revolutionary War. I've wanted to do a full hull scratch build at this larger scale, but what ship? The choice was not completely arbitrary. Even a 5th or 6th rate frigate in the Royal Navy would be 4-1/2 feet long at this scale, not including the bowsprit! Obviously I had to look elsewhere. I settled on Hannah because it is significantly smaller (this model will be 24" long with a 6" beam) and there was a lot of documentation out there regarding the model. I have Hahn's book as well as his plans for "Hannah" to use as a reference. The actual building plans were drawn by Bob Hunt, based on Hahn's original drawings, and were done in 1:48 scale. I had them resized to 1:32. The drawings show each individual futtock and include detailed drawings of each frame, including bevel lines. The model will be built in an upright jig, as was my 1;32 Armed Virginia Sloop and my 1:32 "Blandford" cross section. The frames, stem, keel and stern will be boxwood. I'll decide on other woods as I move along with the build. Thanks for looking in! Here are some shots of the plans and Bob Hunt's "Hannah" model along with a link to his website. https://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/
  17. It was in summer 2014 when I had the idea to build the French light Schooner “La Jacinthe” after the plans of Jean Boudriot. Together with five sisters she was launched in 1823, and in the following year five more ships were built, among them “La Mutine” (“The Rebel”). As my cutter HMC Sherbourne she should be in 1:64 scale, so I scanned the plans and traced bulkheads and false keel in a way so I could build everything with plywood of 3mm. For that I used Adobe Illustrator, so I could laser cut the pieces in the FabLab of the local technical university. “Printed out” in late summer, you can see here the bulkheads, false keel and deck, a few small parts and a piece for a jig that will help me to build a cutter. When I wanted to start building, alas, I saw that the false keel was totally warped. So I had to go to the university again, and cut everything again, but this time in MDF. And while I was at it, I did everything twice. Just for testing purpose I cut keel, stem etc., I will user these parts as templates when working with pear wood. In the upper left corner you can see a jig that will act as a bulkhead former. But why do everything twice? I simply couldn’t decide: build the “Jacinthe” or the “Mutine”? The latter is shown in Boudriot’s book, after a refit in 1835. The main differences are closed and elevated bulkheads, new deck layout, iron pumps and anchor chains, a steering wheel, new chains and a new bowsprit, set in a different angle – in general, the “Mutine” appears much more seaworthy than the very lightly built “Jacinthe”. So the plan is to build both: a fully rigged “Jacinthe” in natural pear wood, and a hull model of a black-painted, coppered “Mutine”. The twin build should not be boring or repetitive. Well, have to build two identical hulls, but all the other details mentioned promise to be sufficiently different from each other to make this a very interesting project. Here a look of the two schooners, “La Jacinthe” (1823) ans “La Mutine” (1835): The foundation is already laid: the two sisters can hardly be told apart yet. This will be a slow build, and quite an adventure; my only experience in building wooden models is the Sherbourne kit, which I modified to my liking and where I learned the pleasure of working from scratch. And as I have to do the heavy sanding outside, progress is dependent of the weather (yes, the with stuff is snow, for those having the privilege of living in a moderate climate). Cheers, Gregor
  18. Hello everybody, Some time ago I started building Master Korabel Schooner Polotsk kit but I was too lazy/busy to start a build log here. Finally I decided to go ahead and do it. I'll be posting more often until this build log catches up with the build's current state. I have been precisely following the instructions during the process so far and it has been a smooth ride. 1. I started with assembly of the ship's frame. The desing of this kit's frame is very interesting, it has a HDF plate that splits the frame horizontally. This ensures that all bulkheads and the center keel are perfectly straight and perpendicular to each other: 2. All parts have laser cut notches so it was really easy to bevel them: 3. This is how the frame looks like with all lower bulkheads installed: 4. Finally upper bulkheads and the false deck are installed. Note how the deck overhangs in the stern and how thick the timbers are (these will be cut off later):
  19. Looking for my next project and would appreciate suggestions. I completed Model Shipways Bluenose II last year and have been working on MSW Pride of Baltimore and I'm into rigging and expect completion in q few weeks. (With Covid/stay at home I'm putting in 3-5 hours a day). I think I'm ready for something more challenging for my next ship. I love the lines of the schooners and don't really care for fancy "ornamental" looking ships. The 1:64 was perfect for my fingers and eyesight so I want to stay with large scale. Both of my builds are plank on bulkhead and I like that but may be ready for plank on frame if its a really nice ship. I'm not an engineer and need good plans and instructions. Please make any suggestions you can and thank you for your time.
  20. Part I: RETURN TO THE SHOP I took off about a year in between Ship in Bottle projects. I completed the restoration on my Dad's Santa Maria model, and was able to upgrade the workshop a bit. Mostly, I needed to take a break, and rebalance my free time. Over a year ago, I promised a nurse colleague named Caroline that I would make her a ship in a bottle. This was hanging over my head during my hiatus, so I was happy to return with this gift project for her. I found a smart looking schooner yacht named Caroline. She's a Malabar IV model. And I believe she is still for sale!! I always start with the hope of achieving crisp lines and smooth sails. I'm kidding my self, but that's my goal. I was concerned that over the past 12 months or so, I would have forgotten many of the tips that learned over my first dozen or so SIBs. That may be so, but in return I also brought a fresh perspective, and the gumption to try new things. For this project I returned to solid hull blank - not saggital cuts. I got some nice wood scraps from a mill nearby - I think its cherry but I dont know for sure. Certainly an upgrade form the bass wood I had been using. For my birthday last year, eldest brother bought me a mini belt sander, which came in super handy for the shaping of the hull. Upgrade #2! In the past I fashioned mast hinges out of beading cord ends. This time I tried something new: drill across the beam, and insert an axle attached to the mast. The idea was that the two masts would fold aft, all the way down, for launch into the bottle. This would require a channel aft of each mast in which they would lie (with their sails and rigging) during insertion. Here's one of the axles being drilled to hold the mast And here is a still of the brass rod 1.19mm sitting in the wooden axle. Here i'm testing the main mast as it folds down IMG_4281.MOV And here are both masts, folding aft into the channel as I had hoped IMG_4286.MOV So far so good! Next: The Calm Before the Storm
  21. 大家好。 我从安克雷(Ancre)购买了这本书,并且已经从事了四个月的研究。尽管图中存在一些误差,但我仍然喜欢作者船上的每个细节,并打算在一年内完成! Translation by moderator: Hello everyone. I bought this book from Ancre and have been doing research for four months. Despite some errors in the picture, I still like every detail on the author's ship and intend to complete it within a year!
  22. Dear friends, The Whaling Schooner AGATE is a motivation project that will give some successfully moments to me. Whalers are an other side of my intrests hidden to public as it is no good for your career to stay too close to this blood soaken side of shipbuilding in the eyes of a TV-educated population. That is what she will look like. I'm not completely shure with my choice of scale and may alter it to 1:64. The Ship is an ordinary schooner of the mid-fifties. Some quite little whaler with her four boats. The boats will be a chapter of its own. Our sources are very simple as these are two: Howard Irving Chapelle American Fishing Schooners p.80. She appears in this book as she is relatived to the Grand Banks Schooners. Chapelle gives a fine set of drawings to us - telling us she was built for whaling especially. Traditionally she was the last vessel of large size (Lpp 74"-10' 1/2) built at Essex/Mass. built from local white oak and pine. V.R.Grimwood tells us in American shipmodels and how to build them some quite simpler drawing - but added some transom and stem decor to us plus details of the galion. There are added some details for the rigging ...and hull,too. Also the cutting station is drawn in detail. Trypots and deck furniture is also passed over to us. These were all my sourcrs and I think about the scale changing to 1/64 sceptical because of the built of the whaling boats. On the otherhand why not to try it out by plastic stripes planking? Hopefully AGATE of Privincetown brings me back to some good mood. EDIT: I due to the legth of the rigged model of 23 1/2inch or 588mm and nearly 22inch or 550mm tall at 1/64 I decided to reduce the scale factor down by 25% so the model will fit to an usual book shelf.
  23. Hello, Here is my new project: the schooner "La Jacinthe" at 1/48 based on Jean Boudriot's monograph from Ancre. As there are no frames plans in the monograph I will do a solid hull model as suggested by the author. The keel and frames I made out of 6mm plywood, the deck was covered with 1.5mm thick bass strips and the spaces in-between the frames was filled with 10mm x 20mm strips of cedar wood. The hull was sanded then the imperfections were filled with wood filler and sanded again. It is now ready to be planked - I will use pear wood for external haul planking and holly for the deck. At this moment I plan to do a full rigged model and with the rigging the model will be 80/25/60cm (L/W/H). Hull only is 48/13/10cm Here are the pictures with the progress so far. Regards, Alexandru
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