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  1. Finnaly I can start my build log of the Sherbourne. The kit arrived today and I was overwelmed by what I found in the box. But after a while calmed down. It can be done if I take each step as a project. I will find out to place pictures and will do so during the proces. I hope to make a contribution to the site and the Sherbourne community of builders that writes such wonderfull stuff. Hope to learn a awfull lot of it. next time pictures. Jan
  2. Hi Everyone, This is my first ever Wooden model ship build so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I dont really have much spare time so it may end up taking a while to get done... Well i have first planked the hull and i used balsa filler blocks to assist me. However i am having a little bit of problems with the Walnut second planking i decided to plank over the gun ports and then drill/ cut them out with a sharp knife however this didnt really work so i have removed the planks as i was not happy with the result. Ive decided to replace the Walnut with lime wood as i now intend to paint the hull. Anyway this is were i have gotten too..
  3. I'm still beavering away at working out the rigging for my Sherbourne cutter of 1763. For reasons given in my build log, I decided to go with the rigging plan shown by Petersson in his book on rigging period fore and aft craft -- rather than the plan shown with the kit. However, this has led me to a few puzzles, current of which is how the lower yard was held. Having prepared the shrouds, backstays and Burton pendants, I was looking at the plans for holding the lower yard. Petersson shows the following: This leaves me puzzled as to how the yard was lowered or raised if just a sling was used. The books I have don't give me a straight answer. Several, such as those by Marquardt, show halliards with blocks (as do the plans for the Sherbourne). Others show just a sling, as does zu Mondfeld: Models in the Royal Dockyard at Chatham show some with a halliard and blocks, whilst others show just a simple sling. Thus a model of a 1763 cutter in Chatham shows the lower yard with a halliard and blocks as follows: I'd be grateful if someone could explain to me whether tyes with blocks were used instead of slings (or vice versa), or whether a ship could be fitted with either (depending on circumstances), or whether both were used together. I have a feeling I'm missing out on understanding function here, so any guidance will, as always, be very welcome! Thanks Tony
  4. I started this project in summer 2012. I choose this kit after browsing and reading many of the build logs in MSW 1.0, and because it has only one mast (I’m not much of a seaman except in the rather romantic way of reading Patrick O’Brian’s novels for the second time). The box contained all the promised parts in an orderly fashion, and a very short/thin instruction booklet. But there is help: Watch and learn on MSW 2.0 (in my case especially from Tony’s Sherbourne at http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/335-hmc-sherbourne-by-tkay11-–-caldercraft-–-scale-164-1763-a-novice’s-caldercraft-sherbourne/) Download the construction manual of Caldercraft’s Brig Badger, it explains and illustrates a lot of the details (i.e. principle of hull construction, guns …) which are very similar to the Sherbourne (http://www.jotika-ltd.com/Pages/1024768/Manuals_Badger.htm) Buy George Bandurek’s book “Super-detailing the cutter Sherbourne” (http://www.grbsolutions.co.uk/5.html), an inspiring guide to make much more out of a beginners kit Keel, bulkheads and deck came first, then balsa fillers fore and aft. Then I soaked the plywood bulwarks before bending them with the help of tea mugs and a good bottle.
  5. Hello, my first build and build log..! After looking at lots of logs on here, I have learned loads and picked up some great tips and ideas of how I'm going to build the Sherbourne, and what I would like her to look like when complete on the mantlepiece. I've been building for eight weeks on and off, before deciding to create a log, so there's quite a bit to show before we get to where I'm at now. What I've realized is I like the logs that show the actual techniques of what is built, stage by stage... what I didn't do was exactly that, no action shots. So from now on that's what I'm going to do..!! Knife, file, or sandpaper in action, as well as the result, I promise! Suggestions are more than welcome. John Although the instructions say to attach the sternpost at the beginning, I removed it later to make it easier to plank. Lesson learned was, don't always follow the kit instruction The fit of the Caldercraft kit parts was good, only one bulkhead was adjusted before gluing, and leaving for 24ths to cure. Very little adjustment was needed with my warding file to make the false deck fit. Curves achieved fore and aft, as well as from port to starboard. Bulwark's fitted ok after steaming over the kettle spout and clamping. The last bulkhead was strengthened with some spare ply, decided not to use balsa as in the next pick of the bow. Also decided to attempt to create a bearding line, which at this stage with the stern post in place, was a mistake, I ended up damaging it. - Newbie for you....... I found planking quite straight forward, and experimented with different widths of planks, to see what would work and what wouldn't. Garboard plank was steamed over the kettle and pinned, as it twists in two directions, I left this to dry thoroughly before gluing. Bending the plank with a hairdryer really works, but you need to attach it almost straight away, as the longer I left it the more of its bend it lost. I used a mixture of wood glue and CA and experimented to see what would work for me, and what I was happiest with. I ended up using wood glue all along the edge of the plank I was attaching, then when happy it was where i wanted it, spotted CA where it met the frame. Nearly there, What was i worried about....!! Fun to build, AND the Admiral gave me the time to build it..!! Till the Next catchup John
  6. I thought you might like to see a few more pictures of the (slow) progress on my Sherbourne. The pictures were actually taken about a month ago, and my wife and I are now at our cottage, so work won't resume on her until the autumn. I've now finished the shrouds apart from the ratlines, which I'm leaving off for access until later, and have in place some of the running rigging, including the burtons, top rope, boom topping lift, and throat and peak halliards for the mainsail. The latter is bent to the gaff and brailed into the mast:
  7. In his book on Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft, Petersson shows a diagram of a boom as follows: The arrow I have added shows some tackle fitted to the underside of the boom, quite separate from the mainsheet tackle (which is given the honour of a full diagram later), but there is no other mention in the book or diagram of how this might be used. I'd be very grateful if someone could explain it to me or give me some idea of its function and the points to which it might be fixed. Oh, and by the way, I'd also be glad of some explanation of the function of the bees at the end of the boom as displayed (just to grab as much info as possible in one swoop!). Thanks in advance for any ideas Tony
  8. It's a bit late in the game for me, but every time I've looked at my Sherbourne deck recently I've had a nagging suspicion that something is odd. It was this morning when I had another look that it dawned on me. All the cutter models I've seen, as well as the plans in the AOTS book of the Alert by Goodwin and the plans for other cutters, show the bowsprit supports fore of the windlass, and their bitts include the pawl for the windlass. The following are pictures I've taken during my visit to Chatham as well as at the Science Museum store: The following is from Goodwin's book on the Alert: The original plans for the Sherbourne, however, show it aft of the windlass, as is done in the kit: My question is whether this was an oddity, or was it just variable? In mechanical terms I would have thought that having it aft of the windlass would be advantageous in terms of balance and the ease of moving it in or out, but it's clear that a lot of cutter designers seemed to think differently. Having it aft does clutter the deck more, though. Tony
  9. Hello everyone, after introducing myself to this forum yesterday I received several very kind replies and was encouraged to start a build log. So here goes ... (This is my first time not only of building a wooden model ship but also of writing a build log - so please bear with me ) So far I have checked the contents of the box and glanced over the supplied plans. Previously I had already looked at the "simple hull planking techniques for beginners" guide here at the forum, so I knew the first task should be to mark the bearding line and cut out the rabbet recess - and I hit the first problem. According to the guide, the exact position of the bearding line is supposed to be marked in the plans, but I couldn´t find it. Did I not look right or is it missing from the plans? And if so, how can I mark this line on the keel, when it´s not given in the plans? And then another thing: after stating how important the exact work on bearding line and rabbet recess were for the finished model, the guide subsequently states that it isn´t really necessary after all and that it makes little difference to the finished model anyway! As a novice to this kind of model building I´m already confused before I even started with the build. A little help and enlightenment would be highly appreciated Andreas
  10. In his table of dimensions for 90-ton cutters, Steel gives the dimensions of the heel rope for the bowsprit, and describes the heel rope as follows: the "Heel-rope reeves through a leading block, hooked to an eye-bolt in the bow, then through a sheave-hole in the heel of the bowsprit, and the standing part makes fast to a timber head or eye-bolt, and the leading part is connected to the windlass". I find this a bit hard to follow, as I understand that the heel rope is to haul the bowsprit out. I wonder how the mechanics of this worked. So I would be grateful if any one could point me to drawings, pictures or models that demonstrate how this is rigged. It may also be that the ropes are generally left off whilst not positioning the bowsprit, but I am particularly interested in how the sheave was placed in the heel of the bowsprit. As usual, any advice from the more knowledgeable will be gratefully received! Thanks Tony
  11. I am working on the belaying plan for the Caldercraft model of HMS Sherbourne, cutter, and can't figure out how the ropes holding the topmast shrouds are fixed. There is no indication of those particular shrouds in the kit's plans for the standing rigging. Petersson's book on Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft shows them being fixed via pulleys hooked to the channels, but the pulleys are shown with the pulling rope merely wound round the top of the upper block of the two that are hooked to the channel. Would the loose end of that rope have been fixed to the main shrouds with a cleat, or would it have been placed on a belaying pin on the rack by the channels? I hope this makes sense -- having had no sailing experience I am doing this all from a theoretical viewpoint! Tony
  12. Sorry, everyone, but now that we've had the discussion about backstays, I've traced my puzzlement about the rigging of the bowsprit on the Sherbourne and would like to check that I have it right. My conclusion so far is that there was no need for a bobstay (or that it would hamper things) for the bowsprit on the Sherbourne because of the need to move the bowsprit in or out. Petersson shows no bobstay on his cutter, and Goodwin neither shows nor discusses a bobstay in the AOTS book of the Alert. The kit plans for the Sherbourne show no bobstay. The only reason I ask is because my pictures from NMM of the cutter Trial of 1790, seem to show a bobstay as well as the jib outhaul. But then it doesn't show any holes on the bowsprit to suggest that it could be moved. Could it be that a running bowsprit doesn't have/need a bobstay as that would have hampered its being moved? Thanks for your patience with my ignorance! Tony
  13. Notice, not a piece of string. No, it's the tiller on my Sherbourne I'm questioning. The kit's tiller measures 35mm from the rudder top. That equates to 2.24 metres full size, or 88", or 7.3ft. The reason I ask is that I noticed on the original plans what seems to be a companionway at the very rear of the deck. Not so unusual you may say, and I have in fact just built one to the same dimensions. However, measuring the back of the companionway on the plan to the edge of the rudder gives 1.62 metres or 64" or 5'4". That means the rudder would have to be a foot shorter than the dimensions given in the kit to give the helmsman some freedom of movement. It is also shorter than the tiller on the Alert which seems to be 2.56 metres long, or over 8'. I note from the Cutter Trial at the NMM that the tiller on that seems very short from the photo. The actual question is how long a tiller would be on a cutter of this size to allow for freedom of movement as well as strength of leverage? I attach two drawings. The top is from the original plan, the lower is with my inked out tracing of what I take to be companionway and scuttle. If you think I'm wrong about the companionway and that it should just be a scuttle as others have interpreted it, then I'd be glad to be corrected as that leaves plenty of room for the tiller. Another possibility is that I make the scuttle go to the back and the companionway take the place of what I take to be a scuttle. Thanks again, everyone, for tolerating my questions, and I look forward to any answers except 'as long as a piece of string' -- although that may well be closer to the right answser! NOTE: IF YOU CLICK ON THE PHOTO IT WILL ENLARGE SO YOU CAN SEE THE DETAIL] Tony
  14. Oh No, not another Sherbourne Build Log ! Yes, I am afraid here is another one to add to the fleet. It took some time looking here on MSW for inspiration to select my first boat. I humm'd and haa'd over what to buy, the Manufacturer (Caldercraft/Jotika) was an easy choice but the subject somewhat harder. I fancied HM Yacht Chatham, Schooner Ballahoo, HM Brig Supply and others from the Nelsons Navy Series. Chatham and Sherbourne came tops for one reason - one mast and therefore less complicated rigging. I favoured Chatham but at the time this fantastic resource (MSW) had more detail on Sherbourne so away we went and Sherbourne was duly ordered. I had no experience of ship building but did spend over 25 years building R/C aircraft from trainers to 1/4 scale models and was looking for something that did not take up too much space (unlike 1/4 scale biplanes) and would enable me to keep up my building skills. The kit arrived and when I had cleaned up the keel and formers wondered why I had one too many formers compared to the plan. Whoops, wrong sheet of parts in the kit which was promptly sorted out by Jotika. Despite all the information available here there was some initial trepidation when starting out. I had never attempted planking on a hull so was trying to think several steps ahead whenever I did anything which slowed down the initial build. I do remember planking a balsa glider (Minimoa, if my memory is correct) and how that looked like a starved horse. Anyway, here we go...... Bearding Line ? Rabbett ? confusion sort of reigned - I had the general idea but will pay more attention to these on the next model. Balsa block added between the first two formers which is a must. Stern end, learning all the lingo took some time. I have an interest in full size boats and thought I knew quite a bit until I found MSW ! Some balsa added right at the stern but I should have added more to give a graceful rounded bottom - Ooo, Nurse. Thankfully I saw on previous build logs the tip to drill three holes before gluing the keel to the formers. What you can't see here are two problems which are about to raise their heads: 1) The bow end of the keel where the three holes were drilled split when the bulwark sides were fitted - easily fixed with an application of PVA and a peg - a brilliant use for a peg, far better than the use 'The Admiral' at home has for them ! 2) The starboard bulwark side on fitting and gluing was about 1/16" lower than the port side. Pretty obvious when you looked at the hull from the front. More on this later but it meant I had to open another bottle of Thinking Water or as it says on the label - Whisky - Damn ! 7 A picture says a thousand words and for each step I found myself looking at other build logs to see if I could see how someone else had done it especially regarding the planking. In the end you just have to get on with it so I am hoping that a few more pictures may just help someone else. Here is the stern with some planks in place - see what I mean about a rounded bottom ? More like a starved horse at the moment which did require some filler. The bow went better than I hoped, bits of offcut wood between the rabbett and the planks held the wood in place while it glued - saved on pins ! At times I found it difficult to work out what to do next with some of the planking so moved on and hoped it would become clearer. I had read about stealers etc but found it difficult to visualise what I needed to do. I suppose this is where experience comes in. Dobbin the starved horse making another appearance, wish I had added more balsa fillers........ Almost there, I know it is a hobby and everything should be enjoyed but finishing the first planking is a bit of a milestone. I had decided that as long as the planking was secure to the formers and reasonably equal either side then all would come right with the second planking - a case of too much Thinking Water, I'm afraid. I will stop for now, more pictures to post but I see that there are notices about problems with the server and changing Disc One - will post some more tomorrow - pip pip !
  15. This is a reconstruction of the build log for my first wooden ship build, which I started in July 2011. Most of the construction on this model took place through the second half of 2011, before I took on a new role at work during early 2012 and moved to a new city. I can't overstate how important MSW has been to me throughout this build. The MSW forums are a great resource and an ongoing source of inspiration for me, and I doubt whether I would have been able to get as far as I have with this model without this site and the community here. Like many, I was disappointed when v1.0 of the site crashed and everything was lost. But I've been impressed by the speed with which moderators and other members have come together to rebuild the site and reconstruct the wealth of information that existed in v1.0. Given how much I owe to the MSW community of builders, I wanted to make my own small contribution to the reconstruction efforts and will document the course of my build here. Instead of re-creating every post, my aim is to post as many pictures as possible to chronicle the course of my build and highlight some of the things I learned along the way. Hopefully this will help future builders just as the many Sherbourne logs on MSW v1.0 helped and inspired me. Now that we've gotten that out of the way, let's get back to the shipyard. To start, the title of this build log is not a typo. Caldercraft sells this model as HMC Sherbourne but the name on the 1763 NMM plans is HMC Sherborne, so that's what I've decided to call it. (Edit: After writing this post, I noticed that one of the admins changed the title of this topic back to "Sherbourne" instead of "Sherborne," which is fine.) I chose the model as my first kit for a couple of reasons. First, I've always liked how cutters look. Second, the model seemed like a good starting point, with only a handful of cannons and relatively modest rigging. I wanted my build to be historically accurate, within the limits of my own skill and the available resources, so I purchased copies of all the Sherborne plans in the NMM collection. They weren't cheap, but I highly recommend them. The plans highlight the many small differences between the Caldercraft kit and what the actual Sherborne probably looked like. My aim is to bash the Caldercraft kit to more closely resemble the NMM plans. Early on, I made the decision to give my model a clinker (or lapstrake) hull. This was the type of hull construction used for most cutters during the last half of the 18th century. By the early 19th century, cutters were largely built using carvel planking. Suffice it to say there has been much debate about whether or not the Sherborne was built using clinker or carvel construction. I haven't seen any conclusive evidence one way or the other. I decided on a clinker hull because I think they look cool, and that style of planking seemed to me more typical of cutters built during this period. Best, Sumner
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