Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'yacht'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Captain's Cabin
    • How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT** 
    • New member Introductions
  • Member's Build Logs
    • Build logs for SHIP MODEL KITS - by era - launch date
    • Build logs for SCRATCH projects - by era - launch date
  • Group Projects on MSW
    • Group Projects on Model Ship World
  • Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research
    • Nautical/Naval History
    • Discussions for Ships plans and Project Research. General research on specific vessels and ship types..
    • Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
    • Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
    • Masting, rigging and sails
    • Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs
    • Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
    • Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
    • Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?
    • Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
    • CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
    • Photographing your work. How to do this.
  • Ship Modeling News And Reviews.....Traders and Dealers...Ship Model Clubs
    • General Ship Model Kit Discussions - NOT build logs
    • Reviews
    • Book, Monograph and Magazine reviews and Downloads. Questions and Discussions for Books and Pubs
    • Traders, Dealers, Buying or Selling anything? - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
    • NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
    • Important Ship Model Club News, Links to ship modelling resources and museums
  • The Crew's Lounge
    • Non-ship/categorised builds
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Plans and Instructions/Downloads
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s General discussions/How to join
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Ropewalk Plans/Downloads
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Commercial sources for ropewalk machines
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Build Logs for the Carving Group Project
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Tutorials and Discussion for the Carving Group
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's How to join this Carving Group
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Build Logs for the Full Hull Version of HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's How to Join The HMS TRITON Group Build
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's How to join this group project???
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's General project discussions on planking, fittings and monograph chapters
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's Member Build logs for the HMS Winchelsea
  • Planking Techniques's Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos
  • Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Questions and discussions about building the kit
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Build Logs for the CAF Granado Cross MID-Section

Calendars

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. As if I didn't have enough to do, a guy from the Men's Shed that I play at 2 days a week has brought in a damaged model yacht for me to fix. It's not really in terrible condition - a break in the mast, two breaks in the boom, bowsprit broken in at least three places and part of it missing, a broken part of the stand. And needs cleaning. It's a decorator model, solid hull. I've worked on it for about a day so far, allowing for breaks while the glue dries, and have made a new piece for the stand and repaired the mast and the boom. I left the sails and rigging in place as I was worried I wouldn't be able to work out how to replace them. A bit of a problem with tangled ropes as I fixed it, but I think it should sort itself out with a bit of patience. The bowsprit was beyond repair so I told the owner to buy a piece of dowel the same diameter and I'd make a new one. I'll post photos when that's done. Fortunately I was able to find some woodstain that matched the existing, so it's looking like it should all work out OK (touch wood!) Steven
  2. Aveți cumva planuri pentru YACHTURI de lux?
  3. Good morning! As my Amati HMS Victory is currently on hiatus due to needing a good number of sheet replacements, I'll start work immediately on the future Vanguard Models release of the Royal Yacht, 'Duchess of Kingston'. As with my other VM stuff, this will be for the kit instruction manual. Chris conceded that (1) he hadn't taken enough photos of the original build, and (2) the design had changed significantly enough from his own build to merit a new build anyway, so the manual is representative of the final product. Yesterday, I received a large box with the final production parts, and also a second set of earlier parts, including PE sheets. The photos here are of the production parts, and I'll cobble together a dry fit of the bits later, to give you a very quick idea of how this goes together, before work starts proper. This kit must've taken an age to produce with all the sheets of pear, plus the pear overlays and beautiful engraving too. Here's what you can roughly expect to see in a final production kit: MDF Maple deck Ply parts Pear parts Other laser parts Strip wood Photo etch Resin parts Fittings etc. Rigging cord Acrylic display stand (with engraved name plates) It's interesting to see some of the design ideas, such as the stern/transom where the resin ornamentation sits atop the pear panel, and that panel has recesses engraved into it to allow the PE window frames to sit within! I'll post a dry fit image of the hull a little later on...
  4. Hello, I am starting to build a model of the imperial yacht De Krone, donated to Peter I by the Prussian King Freed. Wilg. I in 1717 and brought to St. Petersburg in the spring of 1719.
  5. The wife bought me these plans last Christmas after seeing me looking at them on the NMM website, last week before Xmas she asked me where were they and why hadn't I built it yet???? I had actually copied the plans and made bulkhead patterns The plans appear to be at 1/32 but the stem of the boat is missing so full length isn't known however extending the lines and using the deck plan a reasonable assumption can be made A false keel was made from ply along with the bulkheads, the ship plans say longboat in the notes but it is fully decked with a state room, and fireplace below deck and a large capstan and large windlass, sliding bowsprit gives the impression of a cutter rig and layout so that's what im aiming for, I've gone for bulkheads as there's no framing plan and as its full decked out I can show some nice deck planking hopefully
  6. Hi fellas. I am currently building Emma on another thread but I want something just a bit smaller so as to carry it in a bag ( by train) to the model sailing club some 20 ks away. Some of us have to or prefer to do without a car. As a kid ( and older! ) I have built numerous Vic Smeed designs. In fact my claim to fame is that I came second in a " Tomboy " free flight competition at Middle Wallop in the UK some years back. Needless to say the " Tomboy" was a Vic Smeed design and he appeared on that day. THAT!!! was my day bowled over. They are all simple and they all sail/ fly. Vic was a genius. I met him. He was a charming English and very clever Gentleman. Always immaculately dressed mostly in a suit. I have just recently learnt that he was a fighter pilot. This in itself gains even more respect. He has written so much about model aircraft and also model boats. Model boats was always his high. He loved them. Anyway..having obtained my plans and complete building instructions from Canada to Australia ( building instructions written by Vic himself) , I have commenced the build. I just love the way that he has gone to depths of explaining the cost of each material in pounds , shillings and pence! Superb!. This alone has set me on a course of vintage model yacht building. When I tried to explain to the young cashier at Bunnings ( Australia ) that the item should cost 2/6pence as per plan, she looked at me in total disbelief!!! Not really... but just a bit of fun. I have used the old fashioned methods of replicating the drawings to wood by using tracing paper. Yes...they still make tracing paper. The build techniques are archaic but then so am I so it matters not. Here are a few starter pics. Pete
  7. Hi folks Well, I’ve been a bit impatient lately and started on my next model, Sapphire, before my previous model, Genesis is completely finished. Anyhow, Sapphire is based on an actual mega-yacht called, Okto (https://www.yachtcharterfleet.com/luxury-charter-yacht-43054/okto-yacht-charter-printable.pdf). As is customary with all of my miniature models, the interior accomodation will be fully detailed and viewable through removable decks and superstructure. I hope you can join me on Sapphire’s journey. Cheers. Patrick
  8. Hello All, After the last SIB built wihtout any running lines, I really began to miss the the hinges and the rigging. This next build will be a Bat Mitzva gift for my niece Lila (twin to Max - he of the FORTNITE Pirate Ship), and will the last in this particular series of gifts! I found a gulet called the Princess Lila, a luxury yacht, available for charter in Turkey and Croatia. A gulet is a traditional design of a two-masted or three-masted wooden sailing vessel from the southwestern coast of Turkey. I believe that this is a ketch. I also saw the Gulet Queen Lila, but the family here liked the looks of the Princess better. As is typical for SIB building, I pick the inspiration (or recipient), then the ship, and then the bottle to match. I really like this old Kessler's whisky bottle, with the fancified diamond glasswork! I typically remove the back label, but try to leave on the front and any other labels to demonstrate the bottle's heritage or provenance. That was my plan here. The Boss, well, she did not approve of me keeping on any such ratty things for our niece, and admonished me thusly, "She's a 13-year old girl, not a 50-year old man! Take off all the labels. And make sure that thing is crystal clear!" She's right, of course. Although I made saggitical slices for the USS Alaska, that was really roughshod. This time I planned them out a bit more properly. Still a bit rushed but not too bad for this impatient SIB maker. These saggital cuts are what are used in the italian and japanese kits, the latter being my favorite. The american kits just hull blanks for whittling and sanding. I had been doing the blanks, but I think after this Gulet, I have been converted to the slices. It allows for a more finessed hull shape during the sanding phase. Next: Hull and deck fabrication
  9. Hello Model Friends. After much research and more considerations, I decided to build the model of the "ROYAL CAROLINE 1749". The history of the Royal Caroline has been written x times, so I'll give up on more details. After the sparse construction drawings, as well as various to scale without drawings in the book by AotS I have strong doubts about the success of the project, but I try it anyway. The plan drawings by Boudriot, Delacroix from ANCRE publishing house, on the other hand, are top class in their own right, i very first cream. Thanks Mike for the help of the frame drawings. To the model: Scale: 1/48 Wood: German Elsbeere Overall lenght: 655,0 mm I will build the model with visible frames from the second barwood, as well as the interior. I have already installed the "backbone" of the model on/in the slipway building board. There are no photos of the individual parts, smoothly forgotten. Next step is the construction of forty-five douple frames, each frame consists of twelve parts, so I am busy in the near future. Karl (Sorry, Google translator)
  10. Hi folks. This is my miniature scratch-built model of the wooden sailing yacht, Binker. As is customary with my models, Binker is fully detailed inside, hence the partially planked deck. I hope you enjoy looking at these photos. Thanks Patrick
  11. Hello everyone . yes i have put cutty sark on the shelf, but i have got hands in a model of a kdy 15 - junior boat. Denmark's oldest class boat constructed in 1928. kdy stands for Royal Danish Yacht Club. The club was founded on July 3, 1866, and 15 is sail arial. the boat was intended as a school boat for young people in the Danish sailing clubs. for that, it quickly got stuck on the name Junior boat. And in my childhood in the 60's, they were to bee seen in every marina. In the 70's, it was also launched in fiberglass. Today there is a long time between you see them now other and more fashionable boat types have taken over. In 1986 to 1990, I was the owner of one - NR 274 "Beat" built in 1961 for Hvidover sailing club. over 400 of them have been built over time, but today it is "adult" men who sail them according to the pictures that are on the web. The link below is for an enthusiastic junior boat's website http://kdyjunior.dk/?page_id=269&file=SeasonsEnd2012/
  12. Greetings my honorable colleagues. Asking the admittance to “the Dutch club”🙂 I have found the drawing in the internet, scale 1:30. I’m planning on working with the pear tree and black hornbeam. I would be very grateful for the advices and constructive critics. For the moment the model has a certain level of readiness. I will download the report in the chronological order. I also wanted to say that English is not my native language and I would have to use the translator sometimes. Due to this the terminology and information could be mistranslated. In advance, my sincere apologies if this may happen. Respectfully yours.
  13. 1:20 Dorade – 1931 Amati Catalogue # 1605 Available from Ages of Sail for $429.00 Dorade is a yacht designed in 1929 by Olin Stephens of Sparkman & Stephens and built 1929–1930 by the Minneford Yacht Yard in City Island, New York. She went on to place 2nd in the Bermuda Race later that year. The crew for its first race received the All-Amateur Crew Prize. However, it would be a win in the Transatlantic Race that would bring the boat its name. She completed a race that takes an estimated 3–4 weeks in just 17 days, earning her crew a parade upon the ship's return and a reception for Olin Stephens hosted by the mayor of New York. Olin Stephens, the designer, was skipper through 1932 when he handed the boat to his brother, Rod Stephens. Led by Rod, Dorade sailed to victory in the 1932 Bermuda Race. From Bermuda, Dorade sailed back to Norway, down to Cowes, England, and finally back to America after winning the Fastnet Race. The victory of the 1932 Fastnet Race was of substantial significance given the unusually severe weather, several ships feared missing as well as one recorded drowning among the events that unfolded. Dorade was completely restored in 1997 at the shipyard of Argentario, in Porto Santo Stefano, Italy. In 2013, Dorade took first place (after applying her handicap) in the Trans-Pacific race that she had won in 1936. Edit courtesy of Wikipedia For further information on Dorade, check out this excellent page at Dorade.org The kit The size of this box (and it’s huge!) certainly belies the weight of it. You’d expect something as heavy as the Vanguard that we looked at a couple of months ago, but that’s certainly not the case at all. The reason for this will be seen in a moment. The box itself is beautifully presented with a super-glossy lid depicting a finished Dorade model, and of course in a portrait format due to the shape of the vessel. The model itself, at 1:20 scale, has given measurements of 85.6cm long, and 103 cm tall. More images of the completed vessel adorn the sides of the box. Now, lifting that lid reveals an open top lower box, unlike the complete and enclosed boxes of other large Amati kits I’ve looked at. Immediately, your eyes are drawn to the reason why this box is relatively light, and that is the inclusion of a complete ABS hull, and hence the reason why this model is stated as being suitable for RC conversion, although the modeller will have to fathom that themselves, as no instructions are given for that particular path. Internally, the box has a number of card inserts to stop the various contents from jangling around loose. It’s only the components tray itself that seems to be a little freer to move, but thankfully, mine hadn’t spilled open or become dislodged. That ABS hull is very nicely moulded, is fairly thin, and super-light in weight. It has a glossy external finish and will just need some buffing and polishing to remove some very minor surface abrasions. The upper edge will need the fuzziness removed from, but again, this is something that’s very east to do, and not a reflection of the quality, which really is excellent. First, we take a look at the thick, clear sleeve and the paper contents within. Quite a few Amati releases have a glossy instruction manual, and this has one too, well…at least the cover is glossy, with Italian text giving a short history of the vessel. Inside, the instructions are given in line drawing format, with shading for clarity. All stages have a reference number which can be cross-checked with the written assembly instructions. For these, a glossy Italian manual is provided, with standard A4 sheets provided for both the French and English versions. Going back to the main illustrative instructions, there is some annotation given in all three set languages also. Parts are also clearly identified, whether they be wooden, or one of the many fittings that are supplied. Please note that the timber parts themselves aren’t actually numbered, and you will need to refer to the component identification plan sheet. Construction tips are also given, such as how to mark the waterline. As for the fittings etc., these can be identified against a comprehensive parts list that is provided in each language, which gives the part number, name, and specific number of included components. I suggest that each packet of components be put in a zip-lock wallet with the kit identifying code written on, to make it easy to locate the parts needed during construction. FOUR large plan sheets are included in this release, printed on relatively thin paper. The first three sheets provide large scale drawings of the Bessel, from profiles, to upper elevations and sectional material, plus those all-important fitting positions etc. Annotation on the main plans appears to be in Italian, but the illustrations are clear to see, so for a competent modeller, there shouldn’t be any problems encountered. If the worst comes to worst, just use an online translator tool. The last of the large plan sheets is the parts guide for the wooden sheets, with all parts being easily identified against the instruction booklet. I’m sure I once read that the Dorade kit provided no parts reference for things such as the internal hull framework etc. and that everything was in Italian. Well, if that was the case, then it certainly isn’t now. Remember that companies like Amati revise their kits from time to time, in instructions as well as parts, so maybe that referred to an old issue. A sandwich of timber is now provided as two long plywood sheets are taped together, with the thin ply deck hiding between them. These main sheets are the thickest timber components in the box and provide the modeller with the various internal hull frames and bulkheads, as well as the parts that make up stand (note that no main plinth is supplied, as shown on the box lid). All parts are cleanly laser-cut with very small tags to cut through to remove them from their sheets. The deck is a full-length piece of thin ply with mast holes in situ, and the rear panel for lower deck access, just needing removal. As this is a stylish sail yacht, you need some decent sail material, and a packet of this is included here. You’ll need to cut and stitch these yourself as per plan. Another thick, clear sleeve contains more timber components, plus a number of other items. One of the timber sheets is a smaller, thin ply sheet with parts associated with the various deck structures, to name but a few. Cutting is again nice and clean, and timber quality is excellent. Parts here are for the various stringers, cockpit sides and edges, funnel flange and deckhouse roof etc. Two thicker walnut sheets include parts for the rudder, gunwales, belaying pin rack, ventilator tops, skylights, doors, winch steps. Mizzen mast coaming and crosstrees, plus other coamings and side elements. As a number of these parts will be varnished and the wood generally seen, you will need to remove any charring from the laser cutting. One packet contains some good quality acetate for the various deck structure windows, and also a piece of what appears to be a glossy dark green card. I can’t identify that as of yet. Timber strip quality is high and also cleanly cut. This first bundle, held by a thread and paper wrap, is for the deck planking. Remember, no hull planking here! This creamy coloured material will need to have a nice deck caulk effect set between them. Another bundle of timber includes circular and semi-circular dowel lengths, and more strip timber in Ramin and walnut. Several lengths of brass section strip are included, as is a length of thick copper rod. Amati has included a reasonably sized sheet of brass photo etch. This really must be the shiniest, most polished PE that I’ve ever seen. Totally mirror-like in quality. Here you will find parts that include mast collars, shelves, trolleys, flanges, portholes, jib brackets, sheave boxes, rails, and turnbuckle and ventilator parts, again, to name but a few. Production quality is first rate, with narrow, thin tags holding the components securely until you need to remove them. A separate, smaller piece of PE contains the external and internal hawseholes. Lastly, we take a look at the plastic tray of components. This tray is a typical Amati storage box in vac-form plastic, with a clear lid. This is compartmentalised to accommodate the numerous packets of fittings within. Dorade’s fitting tray is certainly weighty, with NINETEEN packets of fittings, nails, decals and rigging cord. Fittings include cleats, portholes, winches, eyebolts, ventilators, boom parrels, turnbuckles, snaphooks, rings, pulleys, sheaves and side lights. Where those parts are cast, the finish is very good, with just a buffing needed before priming. Conclusion If you want a project that is a little different from the norm, then Dorade may be just what you are after. With the hull just requiring some remedial finishing before use, plus cutting out the scuppers, you should also find that it’s a relatively quick project that will take a few months instead of running into years. Dorade is a beautiful yacht, and Amati have very much caught her lines here. There is of course a little jigging around between the parts plan, materials and the instructions, and of course with any model this size, you’ll need a reasonable working space, plus some intermediate skills when it comes to tackling the various task required. For the price, she’s also a very attractive subject and will doubtless be a real centrepiece when on display. Quality is typically Amati, and I’m sure you’ll really like this one! My sincere thanks to Amati for the review sample seen here. To purchase, click the link at the top of this article.
  14. My new project is a steam yacht from 1884. It's Loreley. The drawings are made by myself which I shared some time ago in this forum.
  15. Hi folks Hot on the heels of finishing my last model, Shadow, I’ve excitedly started on what I think is my biggest challenge yet - Genesis, a 49m Luxury Mega Yacht, based on an actual ship named Khalilah, built by an American builder, Palmer and Johnson. The details of the ship, Khalilah, can be found here: https://www.yachtcharterfleet.com/luxury-charter-yacht-46797/khalilah-photos.htm#yacht-tabs As I don’t have any detailed plans, a lot of what I’m attempting is by sheer guess work, with a lot of help from a fellow MSW member (whose help and guidance I shall always appreciate). Like all of my other models, Genesis will have a fully detailed interior, from her engine room through to her sky deck. I hope you can follow me on my journey from here on. The following photos show where I’m up to so far with the hull. Lots and lots of work to go, folks!!! Thanks. Patrick
  16. Hi all I'm building a 1:12 yacht model, the actual boat would be 28 foot hull (around 9m) & a 20th century yacht - so the shrouds would be wire perhaps 8 to 10mm diameter actual (or 0.65 to 0.8 or 1mm diameter to scale). The actual rigging would be stainless steel, so it would be nice for it to look like that. It needs to be straight when tensioned a bit, it won't look any good with kinks. Also, I think that some texture is preferable, to replicate the texture of the SS wire, but I'm open to solid... I'm be grateful for any suggestions, thanks Mark
  17. Here are the last of my maritime models and, in keeping with my different style of building, they're all half hulls. I like this format as it can be hung on a wall so I don't have to answer that awkward question from my wife ... "And where do you intend to put THAT". Well, it's an easier discussion! First up is a model of our own boat, an Alberg 37, which we've since sold. Ever since I took up scratch building I had intended to build this once I developed enough skills to reproduce it and, more importantly, all the metalwork. The hull is carved out of a block of Renshape and is at a 3/4" scale. Here are a few of the details I scratch built from salvaged metals. I've had some questions asked earlier about tools so I'll digress here for a moment. My "lathe" at the time was a hobbyist wood lathe with a 3 jaw chuck, a tool rest and I used cheap Chinese carving chisels which I would grind to custom shapes as needed. In the picture above I've got a chuck that I salvaged from a hand drill mounted into the 3 jaw chuck. This is my preferred setup when making tiny pieces as it gets your fingers away from the deadly, hard, spinning 3 jaws. Even though I now have a "proper" metal lathe I miss the flexibility offered by hand held tools. Anyone considering a metal lathe might want to keep in mind that all the turned metal pieces you can see e.g.steering binnacles and winches, were made by a hand held tool and are considerably more difficult (for me) to make with a metal lathe. OK ... moving on. Next up is up is our previous boat ... a Thunderbird 26. These are plywood hulls built to a Canadian design. On the real boat I removed the cabin and cockpit when I bought it and built a totally new cabin so if anyone thinks it doesn't look like a T-Bird ... that's why. I made this simple, smaller model (13") for one of our sons who was very fond of the boat as a child. Carved from Renshape. Cockpit details mostly fabricated using Arborite/Formica samples. My wife can be very indecisive when we go to a hardware store to pick out a colour for the new kitchen so the salesman is always happy to load us up with lots of samples! These are great for flat surfaces because of their perfect flatness, square and strong. CONTESSA 26's ... Two of them. Our friends who owned it had split up and they both wanted one. Both are 12" (maybe 13") models. The original is shaped as usual from Renshape I made a fiberglass mould from the first hull to save same time. then used auto-body repair paste (Bondo) to make the duplicate. Both friends are happy with their souvenir ... but still apart. BENETEAU 51 IDYLLE This yacht was owned by friends who have it in the charter business in the Caribbean. The real one ... The hull was fashioned from Renshape (mostly) and generous applications of fiberglass paste and Bondo ... needs must. My stash was getting very low so I was cobbling together all the biggest bits to create the mass I needed. She wasn't a pretty baby. But with generous dollops of Bondo and my power sanders I soon had a suitable shape ... It is "close" to 1/2":1' scale but definitely built to scale. I'll just put in couple of shots of the build ... I won't bore you with all the fabrication that was required but if anyone wants to see how pieces were made ... let me know. LOTS of pictures available. Thanks for looking in ... Frank
  18. Hi everyone Well, my current project, Majellan, is nearing completion, but, I've been itching to get started on her BIG sister, 'Shadow'. Shadow is based upon an actual mega-yacht called "Mary Jean II", which can be found at http://www.isayachts.com/ISA_60m_CLASSIC#60m. My model will, in my customary fashion, be fully detailed inside with all of her five decks reproduced (well...as much as realistically possible, of course). Each deck will be fully removable in order to enable the interior to be viewed; in much the same way as Majellan's are. Also, as you can see from one of the photos, Shadow looks like a giant compared to Majellan, even though Shadow's hull is only one inch longer, i.e. 8 inches, as opposed to 7 inches for Majellan's hull. In terms of Shadow's hull's construction, I will use the balsa mould of the hull as the base to bend the frames upon. Once all the frames are bent, I'll the plank over the framework to create the hull...well...that's the plan, anyway. I hope you can join me on Shadow's journey!!!!
  19. This is a quick little build I had to do in a hurry. Eventually I plan on doing another one. Any way here's the story. A member of the European Ship in Bottle association reached out to ship in bottle builders in another forum and asked for help with a special project. The Royal Yacht Association was holding a ball to raise money for the British sailing team. The ball included an auction. The association wanted memorabilia signed by the athletes that could be auctioned off. Some one had the idea of getting a bunch of ships in bottles together and having the sailors sign the sails. So the association reached out looking for modelers who could quickly put some ships in bottles together. They got plans together and sent out sails for the boats we were to build. I had originally thought about doing a star class since I think they are great looking boats but since those were no longer in the Olympics I went with the 470 which is pretty close to the star. The sails I received were signed by Hannah Mills and Saskia Clark. Both incredible athletes and great sailors.
  20. Hi everyones! I decided to give this building the separate log. Some time ago I bought a new material for the making of the sea for one of my current projects. I've never used this silicon, so I decided to first try it with some simple project. Thus, about one and a half years ago, I made this hull for yacht, but at that time I was not satisfied with the result, so that the hull was lying in the drawer of my desk all the time. Now I have decided to slightly improve this hull and use it for this project.
  21. Hi all, Well, here is another build that is a bit out of my comfort zone but something I had to try. I am building both Yachts at the same time to work out the details on the 90 and apply them to the 150 which I hope to display prominently over my fireplace.. With some basic dimensions, a scale conversion calculator ( using these numbers as a base line) and some pictures I started by making the deck layouts. The 90 will be 37 1/2" L with a beam of 7" and a draft of 4". The 150 is 46 1/2" L with a beam of 8" and a 5" draft. As I don't have the classic expertise in hull builds maybe my idea of a floating frame will work, we shall see.Hope everything goes well and I don't disappoint..... Thanks for looking, Keith
  22. Dear colleagues. Today, April 8, 2016 start construction of another ship model, the imperial yacht Standart. To begin with a brief historical background, drawings, historical photographs.and photos of the model of the Naval Museum in St. Petersburg. It was founded October 1, 1893 at the shipyard Burmeister and Wain in Copenhagen. Launched Aug. 4, 1895. It entered into service in 1896 as the Imperial yacht. Delivered to the port in May 1918. In 1933-1936, it converted into a minelayer. He participated in the productions of mine, the evacuation of the base Hanko garrison, fire support of ground forces. April 3, 1942 awarded the title of Guards. In the 1950's converted into a plavkazarmu, and in 1961 - into a floating target for tests of missile weapons. Scrapped in the early 1960s. Displacement 5480 tons. The dimensions of 112.2 x 15.4 x 6.6 m. Voruzhenie 8 - 47 mm booking Gears 2 steam engines 12000 hp 24 boiler, 2 screws The speed of 22 knots Cruising range 1400 miles at 12 knots. The crew of 16 officers and 357 sailors After conversion into a minelayer Displacement 6189 tons. The dimensions of 122.3 x 15.4 x 7 m. Voruzhenie 4 - 130/55-B 13, 7 - 76 mm 34K, 3 - 45 mm 21K, 3 - 12.7 mm machine gun (2 DSHK and Vickers 1) Booked conning tower - 12 mm Gears 2 steam engines 11426 hp 4 boilers Yarrow 2 screws The speed of 18 knots cruising range of 2260 miles at 12 knots. The crew of 29 officers and 361 sailor
  23. Hi! Been holding on to this monograph for a while now and finally decided to give it a try. I will mostly use pear wood, maybe switch to boxwood when it's time to plank the hull - I probably have a year or two before I need to decide that... Here is a quick start: Niklas
  24. Hi all, this is my first attempt at mapping out a hull design.With no particular ship in mind I started out by making a grid on a piece of cardboard and drew a basic deck outline.With that done I cut out some cardboard ribs to form the middle section, then using spacer blocks to stand the ribs up I adjusted the shape of the hull by eye with sandpaper and a utility knife. At this point it looked like I was going to end up with some sort of cabin cruiser. Looking around the shop I found some old scrap squares of 1/2" plywood to use and started jigsawing out some ribs.After getting what I thought was the bulk of the middle section cut out I assembled them with 1 1/4" spacers. I then clamped the whole section in my small work table and proceeded to shape the frame with an orbital sander. Here is where my mind starts to race..lol
×
×
  • Create New...