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Showing results for tags '18th Century Longboat'.
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In addition to my DH-9, I’ve also started the Model Shipways longboat. There are lots of other build logs with pictures of the kit parts, so I won’t repeat pictures here. I'm very appreciative of all the other great logs to use for reference. This build will be very heavily kit-bashed. I’m planning on replacing all of the basswood with boxwood. I’m very grateful to Chuck, who laser cut the frames for me. I was going to try to cut them on a scroll saw, but was worried that it wouldn't work as well as the laser for the partially cut inside each frame, which is important to hold everything together while fairing and planking. Chuck not only sent me laser cut frames, but also the other laser cut pieces. The kit includes 3/32 thick basswood frames, which are a little out of scale, but necessary as the basswood isn’t as forgiving as boxwood for fairing and clamping the planks. Chuck cut the frames on 1/16” boxwood, which is more to scale. I thought I would have to scratch the false keel with 1/16 instead of 3/32 slots, but even that had been adjusted for – tremendously impressive. I usually scratch build, so this was my first experience with laser cutting and removing char. The thread on char removal (char-removal-arrrghh) was really helpful. Scraping with an 11 blade followed by 320 grit sandpaper has worked pretty well for me. I’ve been using an abrasive cleaning stick so I don’t have to discard the sanding stick once it gets dirty with char, which has also worked pretty well. It is also taking some time to get used to adjusting the laser kerf to a right angle. Removing char and kerf without changing the part's size and shape has been a challenge. I thought I had screwed up taking too much off the stem when I saw it didn't line up with the keel. I saw Chuck’s comment in the other thread that he makes the parts oversize to allow for cleanup and checked the plans. The stem is the right size and I just need to sand down the keel to match. I’m having mixed feelings about laser cutting. It is great for complicated parts like the frames and the keelson with all the slots. I just made the filler pieces for the bow. It was much faster to cut them on the scroll saw than it would have been to clean the char. I’ll probably be selective about which laser cut pieces I use and which ones I replace moving forward. Keel and keelson are done and glued. I think I have the tapering right for the rabbet, and after a little filing, the frames all fit in the slots in the keelson. I'll start assembling the frames soon.
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This is my fourth boat start. Still working on the third. Starting small to work my way up to something larger when my skills are ready. Model Shipways 18th Century Longboat.
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Since I have finished my Triton cross section and am unsure of which kit I want to start at the moment (Model Shipways Confederacy or Lumberyard's USF Raleigh (Hahn plans)), I figured I'd at lease start to build the 18th Century Longboat kit that I have. I've already cut the false keel from the laser cut parts sheet and cut the rabbet and then glued the stem and keel to the false keel. Once that was dry, I went ahead and stained the assymbly with some Golden Oak stain. Once that is dry, it will be time to glue on the bulkheads.
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Hello everybody after some time lurking around the forums Ive started my first model. Looking forward to sharing with everyone, and thanks in advance for any advice/training. Ive spent most my life on boats and ships so it seems natural I found my way to this hobby. It looks I haven't chosen the easiest kit for a beginner? Looking forward to getting to know everybody! Ive started by setting up my work space and making a variety of sanding sticks. Bulkheads installed and fairing process begun. I quickly learned that they aren't kidding about how important the accuracy of bulkhead alignment/precision of fairing. I already see some minor hard spots developing in my planked hull. Lesson learned. Planking is underway and seems to be going okay. The directions describe a process of dividing the measured frame depth by the number of planks you want to install. I measured to the nearest 1/32" and converted to decimal for using my calipers. Is this method correct? It looks okay but its hard to envision how it will end up.
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I have always been interested in boats, and growing up in Greenwich very near the National Maritime Museum I have always admired the fantastic models of ships that I drooled over in my frequent visits. Partially retired, and now time to have a go myself. I recently completed a Chesepeake Light Crafts model of one of their Skerries. And then the little Grand Banks Dory kit from Model Shipways. Both went well and now sitting on my office shelf. Time for a bit more of a challenge. I fancied a go at the 1/24th Armed 18th Century Longboat. This was because of this wonderful site saying it may be achievable with my newly learned skills. Noting that the tiny 1/48 version is advanced and not for beginners like me. But fate took its course and I managed to get the 1/48 kit ridiculously cheaply on a certain auction site. So, I made the purchase with the intention of having a go, with no idea if I would get very far. But maybe I would learn something. I am having lots of challenges, and the work is nowhere near the standard of others I see on here. But, I am making progress and thought it may be useful to share my progress here in a log to highlight the problems and solutions I am finding. I may even finish the model. Cleaning up, creating the rabbit and glueing the frames was relatively straightforward. I would strongly recommend pencilling on a centre line on each frames and across the top edge. Invaluable for getting the frames straight. I decided to brace the frames with scrap wood as suggested my many on here. As you can see, my end of the kitchen table is quite tight. And as we have a new puppy in house, a good six inches around the table has to be left clear to avoid chewing accidents. Perhaps an advantage to starting this tiny model.
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Hello everyone and welcome to my build. This is the place for some background and statement of build objectives. As background, I started my first wood model ship 36 years ago (unfortunately unfinished due to a foreign job relocation) and only recently recently finishing an Occre Calella, previously an Occre Buenos Aires tram plus an unfinished Occre cross section. This has been, now close to retirement, the time to start a hobby and ship building was a no thought proposition for me. After all in my youth I was a Sea Scout, built a small sailing boat (from a Popular Mechanics plan set), went to Antarctica in a wooden motor/sail vessel (R/V Hero). Very early I purchased Occre’s Endurance to begin a stash of future builds (affection that seems quite common among modelers ). Then an incredible sale from Model Expo tempted me to buy the Longboat and decided to build it prior to the Endurance, as practice.
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1st build, starting small. Choose this kit because it is small and came with a starter set of tools. Frames are really tight. Sanded them, but I have already broke the keel pushing to hard. I glued the keel back together, and sanded the frame some more. Got it to fit. Dry fitting first then will glue. Guys I know nothing except what I read in build logs. Please offer advise.
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Took a long time to decide on a first build, finally picked the 18th Century Longboat from Model Shipway. Spent the first day sanding the burnt sections off the pieces, assembling the Keel and creating the bevel from the bearding line. I also followed BobF's direction to mount my ship with brass rods.
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Since I found the Alfred to be beyond my skills, I’ve decided to take a step back and start a build that is more to my skill set. I am enjoying this hobby but need to stay in my lane until I get more experience. Using the instructions and prints provided as well as studying the builds of others will help me in tackling this project.
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Hello All I have decided to build my Model Shipways kit of the 18th Century Long Boat. In order to make the build log a little bit different than the others here I am gearing it for the beginner who has never built a ship model before. I and I alone have decided its a good kit for the beginner for the following reasons. 1. The model has a very modest cost compared to others, especially if you catch a sale. At the time of writing this it is listed at $49.99 without entering a sales code on the website. I paid less for mine. 2. Model Shipways quality control is very high and their free replacement parts for missing or broken parts is superb. Although made completely from bass wood Model Shipways strives for the best it can put in the kit. 3. Bass wood is a good material for a beginner. 4. The hull itself will introduce the beginner to most basic hull construction techniques found in many kits. It is a plank on bulkhead constructed kit that when the bulkheads are removed, it turns into a plank on frame construct. 5. Although the planking may cause some difficulty to the beginner because it is only a single layer and errors will show, it is a small hull and the planking lengths should be easy to accomplish. 6. The kit presents a subject with a simplified rig that should not place a barrier between the builder and the finish line. 7. The number of tools needed to build the boat should be limited. I will adhere to some very strict ground rules for the build log. Mostly related to tool use. Those will be in my next post. -
18th Century English Longboat by Blue Ensign - MS 1:48 Scale. The second of the Model shipways kits which I am moving straight onto whilst I'm in the mood, and hoping to improve on my Pinnace build. As with the Pinnace I have 'previous' with this kit having already scratched a 1:64 scale version for my Pegasus build, from Chuck's plans. 1083 057 It was quite small with an hull length just shy of 4" so one might think a larger kit should prove easier. Not necessarily, I found I had more trouble with the 1:24 scale kit Pinnace than the scratched 1:64 version. I will use the kit provided false keel and bulkheads, but this time around I will replace the stem and keel with Boxwood. My aim is to otherwise not use any of the provided kit wood. The hull will be planked with Boxwood strip, slightly thinner than the provided Basswood, but this should be less problematic on the smaller Longboat than it proved to be on the much larger Pinnace. I now need to get the preparatory work done before I start assembly. B.E.
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Here is the start of my 18th Century Longboat by Model Shipways. I watched the development of this kit by Chuck Passaro on MSW v1.0 and was amazed to see the detail that he put into such a small boat. I felt that this would be a fun kit to build and so far I am right. As all of us on MSW know Chuck is an amazing ship model designer and I was glad to see Model Shipways turn his design into a kit. I ordered this kit as soon as it was available. I was fortunate to see Chuck's Longboat at the 2012 Northeast Joint Clubs Ship Model Conference and Show. It is a beauty and it won the Jim Roberts Award for the Best Ship Model in the Show. The kit is in an 8" x 15 1/2" box. Here are pictures of the contents: All of the wood in the kit is basswood and it is laser cut. Blocks, rigging line and preprinted friezes and stern decorations are included. A 20 page instruction booklet with color pictures is included. The instructions are written like a practicum, they are highly detailed in explaining the construction steps. Three sheets of plans drawn by Chuck are provided. Like I said, this is going to be a fun build.
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This is the start of my second build, the ‘18th Century Long Boat’ by Model Shipways. I had bought this boat prior to reading some threads on this web site, which convinced me that my first build should be the ‘Lowell Grand Banks Dory’ by Shipways. This model was a fantastic first build; it was cheap, simple in design, covered a number of needed skills for the future, and allowed me to make a lot of mistakes on a cheap model. Even with the errors, I was very satisfied with the outcome and enjoyed the build. Actually, my first wood boat was a Model Shipways solid hull that I tried to build about 20 years ago. I never got past shaping the hull. I tried to start it a few times and always got frustrated since I didn’t know what to do or how to finish the hull. Now with COVID, I started building plastic airplane models again which I enjoy very much. But I wanted to do something different and thought about wood ship models. I always like how they looked in stores and really enjoyed them in the U.S. Naval Academy museum. So here I am with my second build, the ‘18th Century Long Boat’. I’ve tried to apply what I learned from t he Lowell Grand Banks Dory and this web site. False Keel: not sure I got the rabbet right, did it all by just sanding, we’ll see when I start planking. For a model that I’m sure a lot of beginners build, the instructions could use a lot more pictures. Didn’t look at other build logs until now. Attaching the Bulkheads: I built a simple jig to hold the keel while I glued the bulkhead on, learned that from this site. I applied a lot that I learned about the importance of getting the bulkheads plum and level from my first build and tried to apply here. I relied on a small 1/64 metal scale I had from the old days and did a lot of measurements on each bulkhead while the wood glue was setting. I also glued scrap wood pieces to the top of the waste bulkheads to keep them plum/level. This work extremely well since I could not figure a way to hold the bulkheads with the few clamps I have. Learned this from other build logs.
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As I finish Syren, I decided to start on this kit that I bought some time ago. I've seen many build logs, so won't go into a lot of detail except on things that I did different. The first couple of photos are of the kit box and plans, so you can verify the kit that I am starting to build. I purchased from Model Shipways, and I believe it cost about $50.
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04/04/21 Well I wasn't planning on starting this one yet. However my airbrush is temporarily out of order. So for the moment I can't finish the Tamiya M4A3E8 Sherman I was close to completing. 😠 Again, this will be my first wooden kit. I may have done a plastic ship or two way back in the day. This is actually the Model Shipways combo kit that came with paint, glue, some tools, etc. The first thing I had to do was to take inventory and orient myself with what was what precisely. And it entailed using a ruler, some masking tape and a pen. I wish I had more exciting progress to post. But I'm still reading through the instructions (again) to come up with an outline. I will definitely have some questions right off the bat. For now, though: Wish me luck! -
Hello all, This is my first try at posting a project to MSW, so please be patient with me. As part of the Longboat Tri-Club build, I've been lagging hopelessly far behind everyone else. After studying the various models already posted, I feel that my offerings will be very redundant, and certainly not as good. Anyway, I'm going to start with square one, and go from there. Removing the burn marks on the back side of the sheets went quite well. Next step was to duplicate the bearding line on the port side of the false keel, and make the necessary bevels for the rabbet. Using a piece of glass and some clamps, I assembled the keel, stem and false keel. I then squared up the stem and keel. Using the glass plate and a sanding block it went quite well. The sandpaper was attached to the block with two-sided tape, which is one of my most useful tools. At this point, I constructed a building board. The angle brackets had to be adjusted to ensure that they were square. I then epoxied some basswood to one face of each bracket. Slightly undersized screws were used to affix them to the building board. This provided some adjustability. Two steel blocks, a small square and a clamp were used to ensure that the bulkheads were plumb when glued to the false keel. The small angle was adjusted up or down as each new bulkhead was put in place. Although the blocks were a bit cumbersome, the results were acceptable. I found that it was necessary to introduce some play into the bulkhead notches before they were glued in place. The Elmer's glue caused the wood to expand, and on a number of occasions adjustments were almost impossible to make. One bulkhead had to be re-glued twice before it had the correct orientation.
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This 26 foot long was designed based on a contemporary model in the National Maritime Museum shown below. This longboat was used circa 1750-1760 and was typical of this type of small craft. Plans for this model and MS kit prototype were drafted based on the contemporary drafts from the period. The longboat has been decorated to match the NMM model that inspired it. Even though this model was inspired by another, many other color schemes are possible. There are many more contemporary models that show various decorative themes. Another very good source of information on these small boats is “The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War” by Brian Lavery. This book discusses the many details you sometimes find on these Longboats. Another good reference is "The Boats of Men of War" by W.E. May. Some references to these book will be mentioned throughout this project. This scratch project was the prototype for the Model Shipways kit. An image of the finished model is posted below and can be compared to the contemporary model above. I Also below you will find the PDF instructions for the kit which has more details.
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This is my first build. Since there are many great logs on this model, I will provide brief progress updates. Due to a "tree nailing" mishap I started over with replacement parts from Model Expo. Btw- it's no more fun to plank this a second time around! I have the English Pinnace waiting on the side. I intend to display both models together if I'm pleased with the results. We will see. Steve
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Stuck at home because of the virus I decided to join my adult son and build a model boat. This is my first boat model, although I've built a real canoe. Now I have to figure out how to add the pictures. Look like their entered, I just can't caption them. Ah. "Edit." I really should have started with a bigger boat, but I'm learning from my mistakes and will do better on the next boat.
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This is my build of Chuck's (Modelshipway's) kit of the longboat. I am building this as part of the Chicago TriClub group build. The Chicago TriClub is comprised of the three Chicago groups: Midwest Model Shipwrights, Northshore Deadeyes and Nautical Research and Ship Model Society of Chicago. I plan on painting the model based on the prototype. Although I had originally planned on building out-of-the-box, I personally found the basswood strips too soft and fuzzy and so all the planking is castillo boxwood. I have plenty on hand from my Atalanta build. Two of our club presidents designed a building jig to help with installation of the bulkheads. This is simply some plywood with two wood strips separated by the width of the keel. There is a block with the stem width routed in to it anteriorly. This keeps the keel from flexing as the bulkheads are installed. Because this is a laser-cut kit, there is some char which needs to be sanded off. Also all of the cut surfaces must be sanded to that they are exactly perpendicular to the basswood sheet. Otherwise the keel scarf will not be correct and the bulkheads will not slip into their slots easily. Once all of the bulkheads were installed, I glued in spacers between the scrap portions of the bulkheads to prevent the hull from flexing once it was removed from the jig. Finally, the hull was faired. Toni
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Technically this is my second build log, but it will be my first complete build. The first being the HMS Endeavour's Longboat by AL, however I never got very far with it before I switched to this one, then this sat on the shelf for almost 2 years and I have finally came back to it to finish it. I deleted the build log for the Endeavour's Longboat because there wasn't much there and I don't plan to go back to it for quite some time. My next build is to arrive Tuesday, the Model Shipways Syren US Brig, I'm excited to get started on something much bigger than this little guy, but this one has been fun. I have done a lot of plastic car and airplane models as a child, as an adult I have made some remote control rock crawlers, I also enjoy assembling and painting fantasy miniatures. I have never built a wooden model ship before, but it has always been something I have wanted to do. So here are some photos showing my progress along the way, I'll try to add some commentary as I go. Unfortunately I didn't get a picture of opening the box and the contents, however I did the same with this kit as I did with my Endeavour shown below. I went through and took inventory of all the parts and put masking tape tags identifying what the various parts are. Here is a workstation and tool storage I built. Next up is attaching the false keel, then adding the bulkheads. I did all this back in September 2017 when I purchased the kit. Then for whatever reason, life I guess, I didn't come back to this until February 2018 when I started planking. I think maybe I was a bit scared of the planking, not wanting to mess it up. In the end I think it came out ok, especially after painting, but I have since done a lot of reading and now know what I could have done differently. By the end of March 2018 I had completed the planking, sanding, and removing the insides of the bulkheads. Then it stayed like above until the end of last month when I started working on it again. I am now nearly finished, I only have about 3 more things to tie on for the rigging and finish carving out the pedestals for it to sit on. After starting up again, I sanded away all the laser marks from the inside of the bulkheads, added the cap rail, friezes, paint, and began working on the inside details. I had attempted to make the cap rail out of a single solid piece of material, but it ended up splitting on me on the port side of the stem. I also broke the stem off at least twice during the whole build so far. Here is the rudder and the mast attached. I still have to add the friezes to the rudder, it is removable not permanently attached. I have almost all the rigging done, I did not get photos of the bowsprit, boom, or gaff, but they are made and attached. So there she is for now, that's all the photos I currently have. I will post more as I take them. I have to finish rigging the jib, attach the anchor, and paint the oars and I believe I'll be done. I certainly learned a lot from this kit, I have purchased the Granado by Caldercraft, but I wanted something with more instructions before I tackled that one, which is why I chose to purchase the Syren just last week. I'll begin it shortly, and look towards the Granado after I complete the Syren. There are certainly things I could have done better with this little boat, but as long as I realize that and learned from my mistakes, my next one will be that much better.
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This will be my first wooden model and also my first model ship, as an ex-RAF engineer I’ve been making plastic models of the aircraft I served on. I do have a long history of working with wood though so hopefully the engineering/woodworking/plastic modelling skills will come together to result in a wooden boat I can show off with pride.- 33 replies
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Greeting All! As I described in my introductory post a few days ago, this is my FIRST EVER build. I built plastic models when I was a kid, but that was decades ago. I appreciate the input I've received so far and look forward to learning this new skill with all y'all's help and suggestions. Having never done this, I am starting at square one. I chose this model, in part, because of the combination package that included tools, paint, and glue in addition to the kit itself. Also, if I found I got little enjoyment or was constitutionally incapable of managing the process, my downside was limited, So far I'm enjoying myself...unsure of lots of tasks, but having fun! So far, I've managed to get my work space set up (with LOTS of help from my wife) and have added some tools and equipment that should help me as I proceed. I got a little ahead of myself and removed the false keel, keel, and stem from the parts sheet and did some fine sanding to remove some of the burn marks. A trip to the hobby store got me some spare basswood pieces so I can practice techniques to improve my skills. I also built a jig to set the hull into as I progress. Nothing fancy, but adequate (the keel pieces are fitted together but not glued): In preparation for bearding the false keel and cutting the rabbet I practiced on a spare piece of 3/32" basswood. I found sanding to the required thickness at the stern is my best option. I will have to cut the rabbet with a knife. I transferred the bearding line to the opposite side of the false keel by making a photocopy of the plan. After being sure that it was properly scaled I placed it on the part and marked the keel by making pin pricks every couple of millimeters. I finally used the pricks to draw the curve using a french curve. In preparation for cutting the rabbet, I masked the bottom of the false keel with 1/16" art tape and verified my dimensions before cutting down to the appropriate depth. I believe if I cut too deep anywhere I can regain structural integrity when I get further into assembly. I then masked the other side of the false keel. Lateral cuts on the sides were done after completing the length-wise cuts.The picture below shows the masking: I'm currently sanding the stern from the bearding line to the edge of the keel and stern. I'll update after I complete the false keel and combine the three keel sections.
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My first build log. My first plank on frame model. My first wooden model ship. I lie. My first wooden model ship was an attempt to build the Mamoli HMS Beagle. As any of you experienced modelers know...it's a big mistake to jump into the big end without first learning to swim. I had gotten far enough to have a hull and a little bit of deck furniture but things then went so badly I was considering just bagging it. But the thing that had driven me to this model is the history of the Beagle and Darwin and when I realized that the only thing this model has in common with the Beagle is a hull...I bagged it. Some may suggest kit-bashing the model to the Beagle...but that didn't occur to me. The model now sits on a shelf more as a reminder of my dream than anything else. I still often dream of building a realistic HMS Beagle. I have the 'Anatomy of the Ship' book on it. Someday I'd like to scratch build the HMS Beagle suitably enough that some institution would want to display it. Anyway...that's just a little bit of why I'm here. So I chose the 18th Century Longboat to begin learning. In looking at the kit, that may have been a mistake (the parts are small, my hands are big, my patience needs growth). The following photos aren't that great. Setting up a space with appropriate lighting is on my to-do list. The box... The opened box... The box unpacked... The tool chest I didn't really need but it seemed almost a freebie. My machining hobby (small steam engines) taught me to avoid kits of tools and that I'm usually better off getting better versions of only what I need. Some wood. Which at this point reminds of something I often forget...to put a ruler or coin in the picture to help show the scale. And here's the beginning. Some clamps used to keep the keel and stem in line with the false keel (after making the rabbet) and some clamps to keep the keel and stem against the false keel. (I'm hoping I'm getting the terminology right.) Some of the clamps worry me a bit but the keel seems pretty square. I welcome any and all suggestions, comments, humor, and well-placed kicks to keep me going. BTW I use paint.net to resize and/or adjust contrast and brightness. It's free. There are many tools available to do the same thing. I just happened to start with this for other reasons some years ago. My camera is a Canon Power Shot ELPH 190 IS. A good small camera with decent macro and telephoto capabilities (nice to travel with) but I think I'd prefer something larger with inter-changeable lenses for shop work. zee
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Hello Everyone, I've had this kit for some time and decided that it will be a good short term project. Also, I purchased the boxwood upgrade from "Crown Timberyard". Crown Timberyard includes 1/32" x 1/8" boxwood for laying the hull strakes. I had some difficulty bending these to shape, so started spiling from a 1/32" sheet of boxwood. It's so much easer to lay the strakes once one spilies. Following are photos of my progress. False Keel added to a boxwood keel. Port side view. Stern View after faring. Port side view. Back in the build board. Build Board with level lines to sight bulkheads, with strips added to the tops of bulkheads and a block to hold the boat. More to come. Bob W.thumb.JPG.a2b0f8253a9f4e5bda93c334fc2f1321.JPG)
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