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  1. I broke open the HM Alert kit today to get a sense of what I'm facing with this build. The large and detailed build instructions are going to be great to work with and I am impressed with the quality of the materials. After reading through several build logs over the past few months, I decided it would be prudent to conduct a complete inventory. In addition to ensuring the kit is complete, the inventory provided me with a better understanding of the various components and build elements. Unfortunately, my kit was missing the basswood strips (part #31) and sail cloth (part #32). I've sent a note to Vanguard Models and am sure I will hear back from them promptly. I am really looking forward to this build. I selected the Alert kit for several reasons. First, the reputation for quality of Vanguard Models is frequently note on MSW. The kit seems like a natural progression in my modeling as it provides different construction opportunities not present on my lateen-rigged first build (e.g. cannon, rat lines, deadeyes). I also want to focus on a single mast ship as it will be less complex and easier to try and learn the art of installing running and standing rigging than a two or three mast model.
  2. Table of Contents Welcome to my build log for documenting the making of HM Cutter Alert by Vanguard Models. In order to keep this organized I have reserved this first post for a table of contents in order to allow future readers to jump ahead to sections they are interested in if so desired. Log #1: And So It Begins Log #2: Assembling the Frame Log #3: Designing the Deck Log #4: Final Assembly and Faring Log #5: Planking and then Re-Planking Log #6: Lining Off the Hull Log #7: Fixing More Errors Log #8: The Stern Bulkhead and Counter Log #9: Lining Up the Wales Log #10: Concerning Drop Planks Log #11: Adjusting the Second Band Log #12: The Garboard Strake Log #13: Planking Retrospective Log #14: Building the Transom Part I Log #15: Building the Transom Part II Log #16: Building the Transom Part III Log #17: The Margin Planks Log #18: The Inner Bulwarks and Fixing the Boom Crutches Log #19: Cutting the Gun Ports Log #20: Preparing the Hull Log #21: Painting Styles Log #22: Painting the White and Blue Log #23: Painting the Inner Bulwarks and Edge Highlighting Log #24: The Margin Planks Log #25: The Cap Rail, Timberheads and Catheads Log #26: One Step Forward Two Steps Back Log #27: Fixing the Transom Log #28: The Rudder Log #29: Blackening and Bending Log #30: The Cannon Carriages Part I Log #31: The Cannon Carriages Part II Log #32: Painting the Deck Fittings Log #33: Fixing the Railing Log #34: The Pumps Log #35: Cannons and Other Fittings Log #36: Rope Log #37: Painting the Transom Images Log #38: Painting Complete Log #39: Rigging the Guns Part I Log #40: Rigging the Guns Part II Log #41: Odds and Ends Log #42: Mass Production Log #43: Rigging the Guns Continued Log #44: Hiding the Super Glue Spots Log #45: Blocks for the Gun Tackle Log #46: Blocks for the Gun Tackle Continued Log #47: The Gun Tackle Log #48: Hull and Fittings Complete Log #49: The Mainmast Log #50: First Attempt at Serving Log #51: The Shrouds and Standing Backstay Log #52: Running Backstay and Fiddle Blocks Log #53: Puzzling about the Mainmast Standing Rigging Log #54: The Mainstay and Preventer Stay Log #55: Preparing the Mainmast Log #56: The Boom and the Gaff Log #57: The Shrouds Part II Log #58: Revisiting the Rudder and Windlass Log #59: Finishing the Mainmast Log #60: Shrouds Complete Log #61: Shroud Batons & Running Backstays Log #62: Rigging the Mainstay Log #63: Rigging the Preventer Stay Log #64: The Bowsprit Log #65: Tying of the Stays and Shrouds Log #66: Year End Review Log #67: Ratlines, Ratlines & More Ratlines Log #68: Master & Commander Log #69: Ratlines Complete Log #70: Rigging the Gaff Log #71: Raising the Boom Log #72: Tying Off Lines Log #73: The Yards Log #74: Painting the Yards
  3. I was really suprised that I did not find a build log about the Naval Cutter Alert on MSW 2.0. I know that there exist some pictures of a model on the old MSW The first source for building a model of this small vessel are Peter Goodwins book "The Naval Cutter Alert, 1777", published by PhoenixPublications Inc. 1991 and the two original drawing of her sister Rattlesnake (1776) which you will find on the homepage of the NMM. There also exist two paintings of Joseph Marshall of the ship, which are exhibited in the Science Museum, London. I found also an Sheer and Profile drawing of Alert which was published by the NRG. The sheer and profile of the NRG and Goodwin differ from the original drawing. They show the maximum width of the ship not at frame 0. Perhaps my Engish is to bad, but I could not find any reason for this. So I decide to draw my own lines. which were based on Goodwin and the original drawing. The drawing is not finished, because I decided only to draw what I need for my build. Next step was the keel. Goodwin shows for the pass between keel and lower apron a solution which I could not find on any original cutter drawings. For the after deadwood he does not offer any possible solution I decide to follow the original drawing of Cheerful 1806 for the pass between keel and lower apron. The flat joint at the foremost keel part is shown on original drawings of this period (for example on HMS Triton). For the after deadwood I decided to use a bearing line. I am not sure if this is common for ships of this period. The next picture shows my completed keel drawing: Goodwin uses for his design the common frameing pattern of double and single frames. I am not sure that this design was used for the original ship. For the Swan class sloops only single frames were used. This you will also find on the drawing of Cheerful and other cutters. Also the wide of the frame parts are not clear. In his drawing he uses much smaller futtocks than he descibed in the text part of the book. In his "Construction and Fitting of Sailing Man of War" he gives a third solution. What now? Alert is a practice model for me to get the experience to continue my HMS Fly build. Marshall shows on his paintings an simplified frameing design, so I decided to use this. Every frame is 8'' width followed by 8'' space. For the port side I like to show the clinker planking. On my drawing the final design for the last frame and the hawse pieces is missing in the moment. The drawings for every 31frames and 21cant frames are finished. I am not sure in the moment if I will use the original practice with chocks or the simplified method of Harold Hahn for my build. It will be very nice if you have further information about the cutters of this time. I found the Marmaduke Stalkartt on Google-books, but they didn't scan the plates. Perhaps one of the MSW user can help me to confirm my decisions.
  4. I have been following the excellent work of friends on this site for a long time. There are really great works, so I learned a lot of new things. I wanted to share one of my work with you. Our model has been revised at 1:48 scale of the plan of the V model. note: what is written here has been translated by google.
  5. The Naval Cutter Alert by flyer - Vanguard Models - scale 1:64 The next project is another step ahead in kit quality – a Vanguard Models kit. The HMS Vanguard kit itself was also a Chris Watton construction, however with his own line of products I believe he took quality one or several steps further. Although the kit looks great, there are – fortunately - still possibilities to change it to my liking or even to improve it a bit. For additional information I will count on Peter Goodwin’s ‘The Naval Cutter Alert 1777’, a book of the AOTS series. My first thoughts are: The cutter must have a boat. With the kit I ordered Vanguard Model’s 18ft cutter with the intention to shorten it to 14 or 16ft to easier find room on deck. In the meantime, Chris Watton announced that he will soon offer a printed 14ft cutter. I will consider this or – if it is still too large – perhaps commission Caldercraft’s 14ft jolly boat. Sails will be hoisted. But I will make my own as the kit’s ones are not to my liking. The rigging layout could be changed to an improved and standardised cutter rigging without spread yard and with spreaders for the shrouds. However, right now, I think the kit’s rigging scheme has its very own charm and is not only confirmed by the contemporary model of the cutter Hawke but also by contemporary paintings of Charles Brooking. Decision to be taken later. Shipping in Light Airs in the Thames Estuary by Charles Brooking 1723 – 56
  6. Hello guys, I just finished Essex. I couldn't share the finished version because I haven't photographed it yet. I will share as soon as possible. I have started my new project, HM Cutter Alert 1777. I used Vanguard's kit plan for cutting the bulkhead former and bulkheads. Since I chose a slightly larger scale (1:36), I cut the bulkhead former and bulkheads out of 6 mm plywood accordingly. As such, because of relatively stronger structure I eliminated the bulkheads securing patterns and lower deck pattern in the plan so the cutting work was considerably reduced. Since I will make the rabbet where the ends of the planks will enter in the bow part with my own method I cut the bulkhead former accordingly. I made the bulkhead former in 2 pieces in case it was warped because it was a little long. I cut the deck from 2 mm of plywood and glued it in place. I filled the bow with balsa. I will mostly use the drawings in the Anatomy of the Ship book during my build.
  7. This is my third build, and while I really do want to build a frigate, it suits me to have a smaller project first. I'm also keen to have a go at a modern Chris Watton design, and since Alert is numbered VM 1, there's nothing like starting at the beginning. Particularly as I get the benefit of doing the updated version 3. And free sails. Because, yes, I'm going to rig sails. I doubt this Log will be anything like as verbose as my Snake. Mainly because I doubt I'll have the same level of problem solving to do, or the same amount of steam to let off over the poverty of the instructions. And there-in lies a deeper reason - anyone can read Chris's magnificent instruction manual online - for free. So I hardly need to spell-out what I'm doing. It's also true that there are some fine, detailed Logs already on MSW. You can find a list, here
  8. I have just ordered the HM Alert (V2) from Vanguard Models and I am looking forward to receiving the kit next week (UPS delivery scheduled for Tuesday 6th April). I am currently rigging the Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) which should be completed in a few weeks time. I choose the Alert for my next build as I think it will fit the gap between the completion of the DOK build and the release of the Sphinx kit from Vanguard Models release in few months time.
  9. This will be my sixth build and all from Vanguard. That makes me sound experienced - I'm not - all the other five have been from Vanguard's excellent range of fishing boats. This will be my first warship, first at least partially square-rigged ship, first cannons, etc. There's some excellent logs already on MSW on Vanguard's Alert, so I won't bore you with a box contents post and instead will dive straight in. First impressions are that this is another excellent kit. This is the second edition kit with some improvements. I like the huge manual with the plans bound in. Will save me lots of time later trying to find the correct plan. The keel needs to be shaped where it meets the rudder post to leave room for planking. I’ve followed the procedure in lots of other logs and used a 1.5mm strip of masking tape to ensure the sanding is to the correct depth. Bulkheads and lower deck fitted and glued with diluted PVA. I haven’t glued the longitudinal beams yet. They’re dry fitted to keep the bulkheads square. I haven’t added the aft bulkhead 10 yet as without the rudder post only half the slot is there. I may do some fairing of the forward part of the hull before adding bulkhead 10 and the stern frames to lessen the chances of breaking one.
  10. Hello all. In 2019, I bought the damaged and unfinished Alert hull via Allegro on the Internet. Cutter very nicely made sewn in difficult technique until he begged to finish it. Since May 2020, I have been trying to renovate and finish the construction of the Cuter Alert from 1777 based on the plans from the book Anatomy of the Ship by Peter Goodwin. Greetings, Piotrek PS. Sorry for the English but I use Google translator.
  11. This will be my first wooden ship, so I plan to follow the excellent instruction book provided by Vanguard Models and draw heavily on the build logs from Blue Ensign and VTHokiEE. To start things off I felt a picture of what is in the box was appropriate. As this is my first kit I cannot comment on the quality of wood and parts as I have nothing to reference them against, but everything is well packed in sealed plastic bags marked up with numbers for easy reference. For a detailed review of the parts I would refer you to the excellent kit review by James H The instructions indicate that you should mark up the parts with their reference numbers before removal from the host sheet, so I did that for the bulkheads and keel then did a quick dry run to gauge the fit. The Bulkheads fit very snugly onto the false keel so combined with the lower deck should ensure a nice square build. I dug out my French curves and drew the bearding line onto the false keel. It is recommended to sand this area down to 1.5mm thick to allow for the thickness of the planking. In this version of the kit the sternpost is added after the planking allowing it to sit flush against the planking once it has been sanded down. I took a tip from Blue Ensigns log and used some paper strip on the false keel to gauge the depth to which the keel should be sanded back to. Then realising I was going to need a way of supporting the model I put together a temporary building board to support things during the early stages of the build. Next, I chamfered bulkhead 10 to the correct angle to match the top of the false keel. The bulkheads were then slid into place and the lower deck slotted over them before adding glue to secure everything. Next the bow patterns were chamfered and glued in place followed by the securing patterns 12 and 14. I have deliberately left bulkhead 10 and the transom frames off for now as others have had breakages with these. As the structure is now very sturdy, I am considering starting the fairing of the bulkheads and then adding the deck and transom frames before completing the fairing at the stern.
  12. I finally succumbed and started work on my Christmas present, the second version of the HM Alert 1777 by Vanguard Models. I also picked up my first foray into the Anatomy of the Ship series, The Naval Cutter Alert 1777 by Peter Goodwin. I'm not certain how much I will stray from the kit (certainly not as much as Blue Ensign) but I think that it will be a useful guide and will hopefully help resolve any questions that I have as they arise. I think I might need a bigger workbench to fit that beautiful manual on. I started by removing the false keel and the bulkheads and here you can notice one of the differences between the initial release and this second edition. The false keel and the rudder post are not keyed together anymore. This allows the rudder post to be added after (at least, I don't have the errata sheet in front of me) the initial planking. After a dry fit (bulkhead 10 is installed incorrectly here 😬), I added a bearding line to help with sanding down the false keel. Working on the half hull planking kit from the NRG helped me understand exactly what I was doing in this step. After sanding down the keep I sanded down the last bulkhead to get the proper angle. Dry fitted the false deck (I hope I'm not messing up my terminology) and gently rested the ship in my new building slip (and wow is this building slip overkill for this model). There are a few questions that I have to ponder since the manual still reflects the initial release instead of the second version (with the keyless rudder post) so I have to consider when to install bulkhead 10. I'll probably finish up my half hull before continuing too far on the Alert, but I had the day off and the half hull was in a different location so I couldn't resist starting.
  13. Hi everybody. My name is Goemon. I am new to this site, and, as you can see, new to the process of posting build logs. I bought the "Alert" because I was attracted by the word "premium version" which is limited to the first time. Production started in April.First of all, I will introduce the production record for 2 months divided into several times. Since this first edition frame has a loose fit, I removed False Keel in an inverted state, applied adhesive to 3 Bulkheads, inserted False Keel, and repeated the adhesion every 3 sheets. Keel was limewood, so I remade it with Pear Wood. The bulkhead is a 3 mm thick MDF with a filler of falcata material inserted. I glued the main deck and stern. Although it is the first edition, Stern's MDF has been added. The first plank was glued from a position where it could be fixed with a pushpin 4mm lower than the designated position. The second planking is done with clinker, so I practiced from the bottom of the hull for the third and subsequent exercises. I am not an English-speaking person, so please refrain from reading strange English. Even if I study for 10 years, I don't use it everyday
  14. I have built the Amati Revenge and Fly from the Victory Models series, and both were terrific builds with outstanding kit quality. These were designed by Chris Watton, so when I saw that he had formed his own modeling company, Vanguard Models, I really wanted to try one to see how the kit quality and ship appearance compared. Opening the box, the kit quality looks outstanding. Everything neatly packed and shrink-wrapped, and the wood looks great. The manual is also something to behold: large lie-flat with heavy pages and lots of 4-color pictures and drawings. I'm looking forward to starting this one and will post a log as I go. Regards, David
  15. I have managed to get my hands on the HMS Alert by Trident model. Cost for the kit was $350, shipping with Fedex to SA was $105 and the tax man took another $50. I see that James H also got this kit and is planning to do a kit review, so I will leave that to the experts. A basic idea of what to expect: The kit comes in sturdy nondescript box, everything was packed nice and tight, so it can't move during shipping Plenty of wood to keep one busy for a while - mostly cherry, all cut out with a CNC router, so no laser char to worry about The metal bits Parts for the building frame, made of MDF I have already started with the building frame - have to say that so far it has been done very accurately - some of the parts fits so well that it doesn't really need glue to keep it together A dry fit of the keel assembly, seems to be very accurate Overall very impressed with this kit so far.
  16. Hi All. There have already been some great build logs of this, which have really helped. It's my first time attempting something of this nature (I have done other sorts of model making but my only boat was an Amati Viking boat which had a single plank layer made from floppy bits of plywood). The kit really is a thing of beauty, it's like model ship kit making arrives in the 21st Century. The precision with which the parts fit, the self jigging, the immensely helpful manual. It's been an absolute joy so far. It's a shame therefore that I'm going to massacre it. Oh, OK, I'm not. My planned alterations will be only superficial and reflect the fact that I don't like guns, I don't like paint, and I do like creative reimagining of history. So in my imagination, this vessel gets pacified. Bought out of navy service by a wealthy naturalist. Some on here were very helpful when I raised this idea in the History section, and if you're interested here is a link to that https://modelshipworld.com/topic/25831-historical-fantasy-oh-and-heresy/ Anyway, we can return to that later if it's of interest to anyone; an alternative history. I can't fill in all of the details entailed in executing that and maybe you can help. Here are a couple of pics as she is at the moment, with sanding of the first planking just started. I haven't done this before and had some issues, especially as I managed with extraordinary idiocy to misinterpret Chuck's brilliant edge bending tutorial. I got it back to front, and realised my mistake about half way down and finally got the point on board. My excuse is that the 3D geometry of this is counter intuitive if you look at a profile plan. But the truth is I'm an idiot. I got it in the end though.
  17. 1:48 H.M.S. Alert 1777 Trident Model Available from Trident Model HMS Alert was a 10-gun cutter launched at Dover in 1777 and was converted to a sloop in the same year. On 19 September 1777, during the American War of Independence, Alert caught and engaged the American 16-gun brigantine Lexington in the English Channel. After two hours fighting, Lexington damaged Alert's rigging, and broke off the action, but Alert's crew quickly managed to repair the ship and caught up with Lexington, which was now virtually out of ammunition and unable to reply to Alert's fire. After a further one and a half hours bombardment by Alert, Lexington struck her colours, surrendering to Alert. Lexington had lost 7 men killed with 11 wounded, while Alert had two killed and 3 wounded. During the Action of 17 June 1778, Alert engaged the French 10-gun Lugger Coureur, and after 90 minutes, forced Coureur to strike. Alert was captured in the Channel by the Junon on 17 July 1778, and foundered December 1779 off the coast of America. French records show her serving as Alerte, a cutter of fourteen 4-pounder guns. Wikipedia The kit Alert is packaged into quite a large and heavy box, as befits the quantity of timber and fittings within. The box itself is sturdy and plain, except for the Trident logo and motto in the bottom right corner. When opened, you will see that the parts are broken down into different packages, labelled A, B, C and D. Each pack is protected with layers of bubble-wrap and all other parts within the box are also protected with infills of more bubble-wrap and foam. Cradle Pack As you’d imagine, this pack contains all parts to build the complex building cradle that a model like this really needs. In fact, this is probably the most unusual looking cradle I’ve seen for a POF model, but I don’t get out much really! Most parts in here are in thin MDF and are generally very flat. You will need to take exceptional care in making sure the cradle is 110% accurate as you work. A quick test of a frame sheet into a frame slot showed it to be very tight. I recommend you perhaps scrape away the laser char to make things better, but still snug. In my test, that worked for me. All the subsequent frame sheets from the other packs seem to be of consistent thickness, but you’ll need to assess each frame/slot in turn. Unlike convention, the individual frames aren’t built over a drawing. Instead, they are built within a series of MDF jigs which have plugs to stop the jigs from splaying outwards when the parts are inserted. This will keep everything tightly together whilst the glue sets. There is a risk of accidentally gluing the frames to the jigs, so I would use some clingfilm, as it used for wrapping sandwiches, and lay it over the jig before you fit the components in. As with many POF models, the frames are taller than they should be, to help with construction. These need to be cut to length later in the build. This kit provides a template which fits to the cradle, and this gives the height of every frame so you can just mark the hull with a pencil before committing to the saw. Another jig is also included into which you will assemble the keel stern prow and deadwood timbers. This should ensure you get things absolutely correct before you progress to the many frames. Pack A Each of the timber packs is labelled with the pack number, but also on the label are the numbers for the individual sheets, which is a nice touch. You can see from this one that Pack A contains 10 sheets of timber. All of these are in cherry wood. Some of the sheets in this packet vary a little in grade with regards to colour. More on that in a moment. The first thing you’ll note when opening is that all sheets are packed with cutting debris from the CNC router. A lot of this in my example is highly compacted and it takes far more than teasing it out to clean the sheets up. This material is substantial too, with both packs having enough debris to quarter-fill a small shopping carrier bag. Now, the sheet colours can vary across individual sheets and here is where I found a problem in debris removal. Where the sheets are uniform and slightly darker, the material came out fairly easily, although still time consuming. Where the wood was lighter, the debris was very difficult to remove and the edges of the machined parts were rough, and in my opinion, needed replacing as it’s likely some of that roughness wouldn’t all be sanded away during construction. One sheet in particular took a full afternoon to remove the debris, and the results highlighted lots of rough machining. As some sheets also had darker bands of timber, that is where the debris removal was quite easy, so the roughness generally seems to be limited to the lighter sheets or those with lighter bands on them. Of course, with CNC parts, whilst you get nice, sharp external corners, you do get rounded internal corners which then need to be cleaned up and the corner cut manually. You can see on these photos the rough surface to some of the part edges, some of it very jagged indeed: Aside from debris and the four aforementioned sheets, the CNC cuttings is actually very good, and each frame is constructed from around five timbers, plus chocks. Pack B A further ten sheets of cherry wood are included in this pack, again, all CNC-cut. As with the other pack, these parts, which make up more of the hull’s framing and the rest of the main construction, are simply removed from the sheets by cutting through the thin web of material that’s left from machining. A small number of parts actually dropped from the sheets as I tapped them on the bench to remove the last traces of debris from the CNC process, so I taped those back in place to protect them until build time. To contrast this, one part I removed from the sheet had a web of 1mm to cut through, so this varies. On the reverse of some sheets, there is more CNC machining for slots and channels etc. Timber grade seems to be very good, with a general consistency in the colour of timber and its finesse. All sheets are machined with the sheet number, making referral to the instruction parts plans, very simple. Packs C & D I could be wrong, but I’m fairly sure that the internals and barrels supplied with this kit (classed here as Pack D) are not standard, but for fairness, I’ve included them here as I see them as being integral to the kit review. If someone knows otherwise, I’m happy to correct this article. Both packs are wrapped into a single bubble-wrap covering, but with both labels denoting contents. Whilst C label has a list of materials, ‘D’ simply says ‘Compartment partition, Deck). For ‘C’, you will find all other constructional elements such as beams, knees, etc. Many parts have extensive slot routing as before, with the only real clean up being to square off the internal corners cut by the CNC router. Also of interest is the bowsprit. This is supplied on a flat sheet but milled roughly to shape. You need to fold the sheet and glue together before fully shaping the part to create the bowsprit. I admit that I’ve never quite seen anything like that before. Whether it saves time instead of just supplying quare timber stock that needs rounding, I guess I’ll find out. Another unusual feature are the pump tube casings. These are supplied on flat sheets and routed. You just need to cut along the outside edges and then fold into shape. I don’t know how well that will work, especially with the metal hoops. Not all parts in this pack are CNC cut. We have a number of laser-cut parts too, and some on walnut as well as cherry. Laser cut parts include the gratings, cannon cart pieces. Note how the gratings are also curved, as they should be. I have noticed how the wheels of the gun carts are devoid of any nail/bolt detail as I have seen on some of Trident’s own images. Looks like some sets were sent out without those details. Pack D holds two cheery sheets which contain various interior walls, all laser-cut and engraved. As I say, there are no instructions to help me with this and my emails to Trident haven’t been fruitful. A small number of barrels are included as their own kit, complete with photo-etch for the hoops. Another sheet of PE is included for the interior Strip Wood A small quantity of strip and dowel is included. The strip also appears to be cherry and is laser cut. The dowel looks like lime or Ramin. Some brass rod is also included in the dowel bundle. Materials quality can’t be faulted. Fittings A single box holds all of the various metal fittings, plus some laser/CNC cut parts too. The various fittings are bagged separately in clear sleeves. The timber parts include a mast base, winch gears and a stern piece. There is a little raggedness on the mast base. That is quite deep so it may need replacing. Rope quality is very good with no fuzziness. Castings are generally very good too, as seen here with the anchor and cannon. Details on the cannon are nice and defined. Many parts are provided on a casting block and will need to be removed from that before use. Some parts don’t have as good a definition as others, as can be seen by the swivel guns. Ignore the dirty appearance of the stove parts, as these are cast reasonably well and should be more than useable. Other fittings include copper eyelets, belaying pins, and deadeyes. Instructions and plans One large plan sheet is included with all the required elevations and details, including some part numbering too. This is printed full size to the model. A spiral-bound instruction manual is included which shows the various stages in line drawing format. The accompanying text is useable if not a little confusing. It definitely could’ve benefited from being proofread by someone who can speak English. An unusual addition is a sticker sheet with parts drawn on it. These are applied to the respective parts and the hashed areas are used as your guide to bevel these parts. In the absence of a multi-axis cutting machine at Trident, these will serve the job pretty well. Conclusion Trident have produced a really nice model here, with extensive use of CNC routing and innovations that aim to make this as easy to assemble as possible. That CNC does come at the cost of the bag full of waste material you need to remove from around each part, of which there are many. On my example, sheets were severely impacted with waste material, and dental picks etc. still struggled to remove it. When the material was eventually cleaned out, four of these sheets exhibited rough/jagged machining which damaged the surface edges of many parts. Despite several repeated requests to replace these sheets for this review, Trident haven’t answered emails for around 7 weeks now, and I have sent quite a few. PMs to them here on MSW also haven’t been answered. The remainder of the parts are superbly made, which is a real shame. When it comes to fittings, again, these are very, very good, being nicely cast metal parts such as the cannon and anchors, plus numerous other fittings. A small number of these are perhaps not as good as other, such as the swivel guns which look a little messy. In all, for the money, and providing you aren’t unlucky enough to get some rough parts sheets, Alert could well be a nice project to guide you into your first POF model. I’m led to believe that the interior parts and barrels aren’t included as standard, meaning another purchase. Those parts also don’t feature on any instructions, and to date, there are none I can talk of. Of course, H.M.S. Alert makes a great stablemate for CAF Model’s Le Coureur. However, if you wanted to choose between one or the other, then my money would be on the CAF Model kit, with its complete mast rig and interior. CAF, unlike Trident, also seem to be responsive to queries and correct any mistakes. My thanks to Trident Model for the sample reviewed here on MSW. To date, there is no website through which to order. When I know of one, I’ll amend this article.
  18. Hi, new member here. I wasn't planning on starting a log initially, but I've lately ran across some issues that I could use a second opinion on, so I thought why not. This is my first proper build after introducing myself to the hobby by building the Bounty's jolly boat by Artesania Latina. I'll try to keep the updates regular, but most of the time I'm forgetting to take pictures of the different stages. First planking and initial sanding done. I just could not get the slot in the front stem to work as intended, so I have no room in it for the second planking, but I don't think it'll be much of a problem. And after proper sanding. Even managed a pretty nice stealer plank, too bad it's going to be covered pretty soon. I'm super happy and relieved how my first proper planking job turned out and I sure learned a lot! After sanding I planked the stern bulkhead and attached the stern counter pattern. Turned out even better than I expected. I still have a slight gap under the inner most planks and I'm unsure if I should cover it with diagonal planking or to sand the first planking flush with the rudder post. In addition, I misunderstood the instructions and sanded the whole rudder post to the thickness of 1,5mm. I was thinking of hiding this mistake by tapering the rudder slightly to match the thickness at the post, but I'm not sure how it'll affect the final look of the model.
  19. Hi all, so starting off the build I'd like to say this is my very first build to go with. Some of you may have read my introduction post in the new members section and I said I had chosen a mamoli kit, well the kit was incomplete and was sent back. Long story short I saw James H's review of the alert kit and his statement about if you had a bit of an engineers mind it's not a bad first kit. And so here we are, any suggestions or tips are most welcome along the way as well as corrections on incorrect terminology. To start things off I did a complete inventory, numbered all the parts and started dry fitting the bulkheads to the false keel. (and no my kitchen bench is not my final workspace, this was done late at night and I was a tad over excited to start)
  20. The following production process is commissioned by Mr. Hong Bin. In his production process, he changed the material of some parts for testing effect. Not a standard version of KIT
  21. The Cutter Alert Build log The Alert kit arrived at a very opportune time for me as I'm fresh from my knowledge of cutters from my recent Cheerful build. Ever since I acquired (1991) the Peter Goodwin book The Naval Cutter Alert 1777. in the Anatomy of the Ship series, published by Conway Maritime press, I have long wished to make a model of Alert. Chris Watton has now made that possible, without having to scratch build everything myself. Before I start however, there are already things buzzing around my head, and points to ponder. Clinker or carvel planking below the Main wale? The kit indicates Carvel whereas Goodwin shows Clinker in his book but goes on to state that Alert was sheathed with copper at Deptford on 30 July 1777. How would this work, I've never heard of coppered clinker, can this be right? However, I'm tempted to look at clinker planking, but I've absolutely no experience of it or even how to begin, so it would be quite a challenge for me. If I do opt for Clinker I imagine one has to start from the Garboard plank and work upward to the wale. Should I go for a carvel base planking and clinker over the top, or go straight for a single planked job as with Cheerful. I may well think it's all too difficult, and build her carvel, but these are all questions I need to resolve before I reach that stage. In the meantime I have to get my build plan organised, which may be some time. B.E. 20/06/2019
  22. Hello All! just purchased the Vanguard Models HMS Alert 1777 kit. Anyone have the AOTS Alert 1777 for sale, Or know where it can be obtained for a reasonably good price? Thanks! Jorge
  23. Click on the tags in the title above (shown in black) for an instant list of all the build logs for that kit subject.
  24. Hello everyone, I am entrusted by Lanhai to publish the photos of the production process in the forum. Later, after getting familiar with the operation of the forum, Lanhai will upload the photos himself. Thank you for your support.
  25. Good morning Gentlemen, Well, for those of you who may not have read my previous thread (below), this is my first attempt at a scratch-build, using Goodwin's (extremely helpful) guide for the Cutter Alert of 1777. I have drawn out each individual scantling/rib (whatever you may call it) on paper, then card, using the plans illustrated in Goodwin's guide. If using the traditional method of paper/pencil, be sure to have a waste paper basket nearby I watched a video of a card build of the Alert (this one manufactured by Shipyard models), just to see the method of construction and how to go about it. Each scantling was then glued to the main section using PVA. So, as you gentlemen see below, I have now begun this wild project and so far, I am quite pleased with it. I look forward to hearing any advice you chaps may have for me. Cheerio, Caleb
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