Search the Community: Showing results for tags 'Framing'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • The Captain's Lounge
    • Questions/instructions on how to use and post to this forum/Site Problems or suggestions
    • New member Introductions
  • Member's Build Logs
    • Build Logs for SHIP MODEL KITS
  • Model Ship World Group Projects
    • H.M.S. Triton, 28 gun frigate
    • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models
    • General Info about group projects on Model Ship World and past groups archived
  • Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research
    • Nautical/Naval History
    • Ships plans and Project Research. General research on specific vessels and ship types..
    • Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
    • Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
    • Masting, rigging and sails
    • Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs
    • Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
    • Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
    • Wood discussion
    • Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
    • CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
  • Ship Modeling News And Reviews.....Traders and Dealers...Ship Model Clubs
    • General Ship Model Kit Discussions - Questions and reviews
    • Book and Magazine reviews and Downloads. Questions and Discussions for Books and Pubs
    • Traders, Dealers, Buying or Selling anything? - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
    • NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD NEWS, Model Ship Clubs and Exhibitions and Events, Museums and Museum Ships
    • Important Links to ship modelling resources
  • The Crew's Lounge
    • Nautical General Discussion
    • Shore Leave


There are no results to display.

Found 7 results

  1. (Edit: Sorry, I found another post from 2015 with a similar question, but since Robin's posts were deleted I thought I'd keep this question going in case anyone has had any ideas or knowledge since then. I'm hoping to get the March book on sailing trawlers.) I've just purchased a set of the Underhill plans for the Brixham trawler Valerian. Unfortunately they were from eBay and while 4 of the 5 plans were perfect the main plan of the sheer, body and half breadth were badly distorted by what may well be a photocopy. I'll be buying a new replacement of that main plan, but the point of my query is that I'd like to find out more about how these ships were framed. I understand that many of these ships were built from half models rather than plans, but I'd be very grateful if someone could point me in the direction of either framing plans or details of how the framing was done -- particularly with ideas on spacing, floor construction, sided and mounded dimensions, beam and carling placement, planking practice and sizes and the like. In addition, if anyone has experience of the Valerian plans or build I'd be glad to hear from them. Thanks, as always, for your wisdom, advice or recommendations! Tony
  2. I am building the Constitution cross-section by Mamoli and figured, as long as it was a cross section I would also try to expose some of the guts, in particular I wanted to leave some of the deck planking off and show the structure of the framing. Most of the plans I have seen, including those in the Anatomy of the Ship volume, show the carlings (joists) perpendicular to the deck beams/parallel to the keel. However, drawings I've seen from 1926 before the refit show them running diagonally. There are also photos in the Boston Public Library's digital photo collection that show the same thing - I'm just not sure if these are before or after refit photos. My question is which is "correct." Are the diagonal or the perpendicular carlings as she should be or is one an artifact of a non-historic refit?
  3. Hello everyone, I have a question regarding the reading of NMM plans. I currently build a cutter in 1:42 scale (POB) and want to treenail the outer hull later, but I'm not sure about the correct position and number of frames used to build up the hull. Since treenails were used to fix the plank to the ship's frames I have to know the position and number of frames first to determine the treenail pattern, right? I have attached a sample picture of a 1763 revenue cutter from the NMM website. Is there a way to determine the number of / space between frames from this plan or do I need another plan where the frame layout is clearly shown? Thank you for your help. Andreas
  4. As I am moving into the details of deck furniture, deck houses, and the poop and forecastle decks in Galilee, it occurred to me that I had no idea whether the main deck in a basic sailing merchant ship extends the full length of the hull, including under the poop and forecastle decks. The remains of Galilee's bow at Benicia Historical Museum suggest that the main deck was planked all the way to the stem. But what about at the stern? Galilee had a low poop deck about 4 feet above the main deck surrounding the aft end of the main cabin (see photo below). The helm and main boom traveler were located right aft and the companionway to the captain's cabin was via a short stairway from the poop deck to the cabin deck, which appears to be at the main deck level. So, did the main deck planking continue aft to the fantail under the poop deck? I found a photo of the lumber schooner C. A. Thayer in San Francisco during her recent renovation showing what appears to be workers standing on the main deck while reinstalling the aft cabin and constructing the poop deck framing (see bottom photo). Would this be typical of merchant vessels c. 1900? If so, what was the dead space under the poop deck used for? Was this part of the lazarette space? Terry
  5. Hi, Here's a pic of traditional framing in which the frames (ribs) are not at the right angle to the keel (on the vertical plane). I was wondering what could be possible cons and pros for this kind of framing. I am interested in different approaches to framing and its history. I'm new to boat design, and maybe a tad anal. Anyway, as an absolute beginner, I've found it interesting. Thank you.
  6. I am not sure if I am doing something wrong, but the first bulkhead on my model (corel scotlands) protrudes slightly more than the deck. I checked with the plans and everything seems to be fine. I'll post some pictures: The reason I am confused is because I think it's normal for the front of the frame to clear the deck but the back should be aligned. This makes shaping the frame easy: filing the only the front projection while leaving the outline of the frame intact. In my case, the front and back projection of the frame clears the deck? Any suggestions, fixes, solutions to something I'm doing wrong. I haven't glued the deck on yet. Thanks!!
  7. I have a conundrum. My station spacing does not add up. Could someone please help me understand where I am going wrong? The build is HMS Bellerophon I am working from Plan drawings of HMS Elephant as my primary source and HMS Goliath as a backup for any items that might be difficult to read off my primary source. I just received copies of the original build contracts for both Bellerophon and Elephant. They seem identical. Room and Space is 2’-8-1/2” (Floor timbers at midships from 3 thru C are 1’-4” so the space in this region is ½” or ¼” between timbers) Double room and space = 65” = 5’-5” From my spread sheet you will see I calculate 168’ - 8” It is supposed to equal 168’-0” as can clearly be seen on the plan so I have an extra 8” Looking at the stern Plan or Framing drawings there are stations 28 to 29 and 29 to 30 at 2’-8-1/2” From 30 to the Stern Perpendicular seems to be 4’-3” These numbers are on my spread sheet. Looking at the bow Plan or Framing drawings T to T, T to W and W to Y all seem to be exactly 5’-5” Y to the Bow Perpendicular looks like exactly 6’-0” These numbers are on my spread sheet. Where does the extra 8” come from??? Can anyone point a finger to it for me please.