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Found 51 results

  1. Hello, I just ran across my daughter's copy of Ashley's Book of Knots by Clifford W. Ashley. It is probably the definitive work of knots for rigging ships and other ropework. It is an excellent reference work for modellers, but if you intend to apply the knowledge in everyday life, be very very careful to form the knots correctly. https://archive.org/details/TheAshleyBookOfKnots
  2. Have a question for the group... I am looking at building either the Rattlesnake or the Niagara kit. Of the two, which is the most difficult when it comes to the rigging? I have experience in build wooden ship kits, with some experience with rigging (primarily on 1/96 Revell Constitution kit ) I have been following both the Niagara and Rattlesnake builds... Any and all responses welcome... TIA
  3. I've reached the point on my Scottish Maid that I need to rig the ratlines. I remember reading a method here on Model Ship World that involved using graph paper to make a template to keep them properly spaced. Before posing, I searched for those posts and couldn't find them. Anyone recall that method? It made all kinds of sense when I read it, but I need a refresher to actually do it. Thanks! Dan
  4. Hello friends, i have searched my books for a correct term, hope i found it... i am looking to find out how to tie one double block to a main topgallant crosstree on my Vic model. for those who would be also building victory from model space kit, its the 7mm double block from step 7 stage 64. i cannot seem to see how is this block tied to the mast... i assume that it would be same as the 5mm block that is also mentioned in there, which i also dont have a clue how to do. thank you in advance. pavol
  5. Over the last few months, I have worked through a very challenging task of creating a set of files that cover the rigging of the Royal William. They include text, diagrams and photos arranged in a sequential order of rigging. They are freely available for anybody who wishes to make use of them and it is my fervent desire that they will add to the joy of creating this mighty ship. Having said that, there is still some work to be done on these files to fully complete them. Hopefully, the MSW members will 'jump in' and make this a real community effort through a range of ideas, suggestions and criticisms. I feel that this task is more than one person can handle so I will wait to see what happens. The files concerned range from RW.06 through to RW.10. The link to the Euromodel website is .... https://www.euromodel-ship.com/eng/royal-william-i-i.php Pete
  6. I'm struggling with a rigging question for my current built, the Corel Ranger, which is a fictional version of a US Revenue Schooner from around 1820. The plans for the standing rigging show only one normal shroud per mast (per side), with no allowance for ratlines. Then it shows two other lines from the top of the mast, through the crosstrees, down to blocks along the rail and deck, which appear to serve as shrouds but are not listed as such and don't use deadeyes or blackened lines. My confusion is twofold: One, what are these other lines for, as they don't appear to be operational (don't attach to any sails, yards, gaffs, etc) but aren't treated as standing rigging either. Two, with only one shroud per mast and no ratlines, how would sailors reach the crosstrees and the upper yards/gaffs for handling the topsails and any other repairs? One respondent in my build log suggested a bosun's chair, which might make sense for occasional access, but the crew would have to get up there quickly and commonly in normal sailing operations. Below is my attempt to diagram the situation. Most of the contemporary images I can find show these schooners with two or three shrouds per mast (per side) with ratlines, as I would expect. So is the kit just full of guano when it comes to this rigging plan, or is there a reason to do it this way? I would greatly appreciate any advice.
  7. Not a Parrel

    On the Royal William (launched in 1650 and final refit by 1719), the lateen yard is shown in the attached image as being supported by a truss made entirely of rope and not the usual trucks/ ribs that I associate with a parrel. Can anybody throw light on this form of truss. Did it actually exist ? When ? Any information would be appreciated. Pete
  8. I spent quite a bit of time learning how to read the Mamoli rigging plans. Since there were no explicit instructions on how to interpret the drawings I spent a great deal of time looking through them before I figured out their method. Once I did, it was pretty straight forward. I thought perhaps others might find this useful. Perhaps this is how all rigging plans are done. Since the Connie is my first kit, I have no reference. I also need to mention this kit was purchased in 1991 so it may have changed. However for what it is worth here is how my plans are interpretted. There are two tables on each rigging page. The first table is on the right and lists all the parts, this is standard on all the Mamoli pages. However the second table, placed directly to the left of the first left is only on the rigging pages. the tables are not really labeled or numbered but they are consistent on how they arrange them. The only difference is where they are placed on the plan. For this illustration I will show how to interpret the rigging on the Mizzen (part o552) circled on the drawing. Here is a copy of the appropriate section from the plans: This shows a rigging set running from the tip of one of the Mizzen booms to the cap just above the Main Mast's fighting top. First we need to see what the parts are for this rigging. The size of the line, the size of the blocks, etc. For this we turn to the right most table on the plans. This table is on all of the plans an lists the all the parts of the ship as well as the various sizes. In some cases, the part number might refer to a different page of the plans if the part was installed much earlier so you might have to refer back to another page of drawings. Here is a copy of the section in the table dealing with the rigging for this piece. We can see here that 0552 (o552 in the above drawing) is labeled Braccio (which means "Arm"), the second column tell us that the amount is the same as the above parts, which is 2, although you can't see that in this photo. More importantly, the second column from the right says 0,25, which means this is the 0.25mm line. So now we know the size of the line, let's see where it runs. The second table directly to the left of the parts list table contains the order a line runs by listing the part numbers in the order they go starting at the lines termination in the rigging and ending at the termination on the deck. The entry for 0552 shows 0552 D = 0554+055+0554+0556 (fig 10). This is chock full of valuable information. Ignore the pencil marks, that is how I track when I install a line. First the line will start at at part 0554. We can look on the first chart and see 0554 is a block (Bozello) that is made of walnut and is a single 4mm block (1x4). This also refers to a figure (fig. 10) for more information. This figure is shown below: This shows the manner the blocks are attached to the mast cap. If we want more information on the rings we can refer back to the first drawing of the rigging and see this part is 0553. Referring back to the first table we can see that part 0553 is a 3mm brass eye ring (Anello con Gambo = Ring with shank) the OTN refers to a table in the general instructions that shows it is made of brass. So after the two rings are installed on the cap, the block is added with the .25mm line attached to it. This then runs to the block 0555. The table tells us this is also a 1x4 walnut block that is attached to the end of the spar. The line then returns to 0554 and runs toward the deck. As a note here, if the line also went through the fighting top, that too would have been listed in the order the line ran through it. In this case it does not but goes directly from the block (0554) to part 0556, which table 1 informs us is a belaying pin (Caviglia). The termination point is shown not only in the table but also in the rigging diagram. The sheet also has a diagram showing the layout of the termination points when viewed from the rigging. From this we can see that 0556 is the third belaying pin aft in the 4 pin belaying rack located on the starboard side between the two fife rails. The port side has a matching set for the matching mirrored rigging set. So that is it. A further note on terminations, if a line terminates tied to a side shroud, the shroud grouping is noted and it is numbered from front to back. So the rigging drawing would show the shroud set from the side and give you the number it would be referred to as. This would look like the following: Any lines terminating on one of these shrouds will be labeled 16(x) with x being the number of the shroud from the bow. The following drawing shows how this shroud is referred to int he rigging drawing. So this shows the top line would terminate on shroud set 16 on the 6th shroud. The one below is marked to terminate on the 5th shroud. It is hard to read but you can see my pencil marks to the left of the number. So this is how the rigging plans work. I stopped working the lines from the top of the table down since they tended to number the lines from the bottom up. This meant that the top lines which normally run down the center of the ship, had to be fished through the other lines. However, other than that, I have ben following these diagrams pretty much as they are drawn. [ dia=core:attachments:202725]
  9. Hi all, in preparing the mast before attaching yards and stepping. I'm confused by these pendants, once served with an eye splice, is the main stay passed through the splice and back down to be secured? Or is a hook attached to the stay and attached to the eye slice loop. I'm trying to get needed all standing rigging on the masts in place so when the yards are hung any additional standing and running rigging (stays and back stays) will be easier to install. Hope this is clear. Thanks for your help in advance. I wish you all and all those near and dear to you a joyous season. Mark
  10. Hello Everyone, I have a question about making the yard parrals. About a month ago my wife took me to HOBBY LOBBY for her to get jewelry supplies. While there I noticed that they have "seed beads" that are made of wood and the same size as the blue/black glass beads that are supplied in kits for the parrals. I thought wow! I went and purchased some. Am I correct in my thinking to use these wooden seed beads for parrals? My thinking is that in ancient ships they would not have used glass due to the fracturing/manufacturing issues and depending on the time frame are manufacturers trying to simulate iron? Any advise and comment would be welcome. As my wife says, I am too much of a perfectionist at this hobby (I LOVE IT, fits my old sarge personality!) .
  11. New to model making.

    Hi, I have inherited a Shipways Kit No 2040. My dear friend had almost completed the hull and I will soon be starting on the remainder of the build. I am a woodworker and woodturner but this is my first venture in ship building. My first job will be to make and fit the Channels so if anyone else has made or is making this kit I would appreciate a share of their knowledge and hopefully answer some questions which will no doubt arise as I progress. Thanks, Kev (UK)
  12. Hello everybody! I finished 3D model rigging of the brig Mercury. Only rigging and sails
  13. Anyone know of any suppliers of decent larger size rigging blocks. I'm building an RC square rigger at 1/36 scale and need blocks about 7-12mm in size. They don't have to be functional, just strong and look the part in wood.
  14. Hello Modellers: I am building the old Denmark 1:75 scale and am looking for suitable material for shear poles. As I understand the term, these are the metal rods that are placed between the rigging pins to keep them from turning and they function as the first couple of rungs up to the ratlines on the shrouds. I've included a photo showing the fore mast starboard pins. I constructed them with paper clip wire and 1mm brass tubing. I need to install the shear poles but have a couple of questions. (1) should they be installed between the pins and if so, how, or should they be attached to the outside and overlap the pins slightly. (2) In either case, what material would be suitable? I could cut short lengths of wire and try to glue them in-between the pins but I sense this would be extremely difficult and might not result in a uniform look. Attaching them to the outside allows me to align them but don't know the best material to use (wire, wood, ??) All suggestions and experience gratefully welcome. HKC
  15. I'm getting nearer to finishing my Heller HMS Victory and I am at the stage where I am literally tying up loose ends. I had installed all the running rigging but most of it was left dangling and not made off to anything so I could have flexibility and access to the deck. Now I am belaying the lines going from fore to aft. The foremast looks great and the bow area is now clear of Irish pennants and lose ends.. , But I have come across something I find odd: the Fore Topsail Braces belay to the second skid beam. This strikes me as an odd and awkward and hard to access place to put these frequently used lines. There are many lines of running rigging on a ship, but the Fore Topsail braces are on the short list of lines you will be using all the time. And they are lines which will be under a LOT of strain and which will require a lot of crew to take up on. . John McKay, Longridge and the Heller instructions themselves have them belaying in this odd place (although the kit instructions may indicate the rail at the forward edge of the hatch, the kit has a molded on pin where the others say the lines belay). Lees doesn't specify where they belay in his section on Fore Topsail Yards. . The lines begin on the main stay close to the main mast then run to the blocks on the yardarms. From there they come right back to lead blocks on the stay, close to where they originated. From there they run forward down the stay to another pair of lead blocks on the stay above the belfry, and from there to a lead block on the forward edge of the hatch (or a fairlead in a timberhead there?) then belay to a fore and aft pin which pierces the second skid beam. The references I have that show the pin show it several feet away from the gangways, not within easy reach of someone standing there. . The only way this makes sense to me is if the crew were intended to handle the line from the gundeck below. Which makes me wonder then why it wouldn't belay on a big hefty cleat on the bulwarks there. Why above their heads in a place difficult to access? Why not on one of the timberheads at the forward edge of the hatch? The way it is rigged it zigzags through space quite a bit and I believe it could have been lead nearly anywhere with the resources it is using. So why is it 1/4 of the way inboard on a skid beam, which I believe would be a difficult place for anyone to manage it?
  16. The Constrictor Knot

    I’m a big fan of the Constrictor Knot. It’s a very useful knot for fixing a line to a spar such as in the case of a stay or backstay attaching to a topgallant masthead on small models or on lighter lines on larger models. Its got a low profile and its easy to tie and when tightened it constricts as advertised. Clifford Ashley apparently invented it and its number 1249 in his book. It’s also mentioned in the original Ship Modelers Shop Notes in a Merritt Edson essay on page 187. Unfortunately the illustration included in Shop Notes tends to make the knot look difficult to tie. In fact most descriptions of the knot fail to show how easily it can be tied. Its litterly just a loop that is twisted once into a figure eight and the two lobes thus created are folded together to form the knot which can be slipped over the end of the spar in question. If the knot has a drawback it is that once tightened it can be very difficult, if not impossible, to untie. This photo shows the steps involved in tying it and below I will break down the individual steps. It may appear complex but it really boils down to a few simple hand moves.
  17. Can anyone help with pictures or info on how the anchor was rigged? I would like to have anchor lines on the gun deck from the capstan forward to the anchor to as though the anchor was being lowered or raised. Were the anchors rigged so both were raised/lowered at the same time? Thanks
  18. Hello everyone. I am currently building Model Expo's Fair American and am rather disappointed with the plans. They don't show any detail about the running rigging, particularly the bowsprit, Does anyone have suggestions on books, pics or other resources to consult?
  19. Hi, The kit is Mantua/Sergal CS. The kit has metric measurements (not a problem) but for the length it reads like this 0.25 by "60mt". The only time I've seen "mt" used was for metric tons or MT. for mountain. Can anyone help me with this? I had trouble with math in school but that is a different topic. According to a number of resources CS would have flown a "Red Ensign" being a merchantman. The flag supplied is a Union Jack. Any leads for cloth printed small flags would be most welcome. Happy Thanksgiving to all...
  20. Hi folks, I'm thinking ahead to the rigging phase for the HMS Fly. I realize that serving protects rigging from rubbing. The question is, do I serve just at the upper part of the shrouds around the mast or all the way down to the deadeye. Same question for stays. Thanks in advance for any direction you give.
  21. I am currently building the Cutty Sark by constructo. This is my first model ship and I think I am over my head, but I do have the hull all built and the masts an yardarms installed. I think all that I have left to do is the rigging and the sails. I am not sure of the best sequence to finish this project. Do the sails go up first or is the rigging and sails installed simultaneously? Is there a good book available yet details a step-by-step procedure for completing this task. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. cmb
  22. Hi - My husband and I are trying to figure out how to attach this sail to the mast. My father built this sailboat a long time ago and my stepmother gifted it to us after he passed. We had it on display until a gust of wind came through the house and knocked it over, breaking the boom. We took the sail off to get the boom repaired. Unfortunately, that was about 10 years ago. Now that we have repaired the boom, we can't figure out how to re-attach it. I'm attaching photos and really hoping someone here can help us. My stepmother is visiting next week so we would like to have it back together by then. Thanks for your help - Kathy
  23. Hello everyone, I want to introduce myself - I'm Bob from Raleigh, NC. I'm a gulf war veteran and a model builder for about 30 years, mostly plastic, and mostly racing cars and military aircraft. I've also gotten just a taste of wood-bending - for canoes and small watercraft, and I thoroughly enjoyed the task! But I can no longer ignore the siren call to build accurate, historical wooden ships, like some of the supreme examples on these pages. I've just purchased my first subject from Model Expo: The Sultana. I chose this as my first ship build so I can cut my teeth on proper rigging techniques. I also bought the books "The Art of Rigging", and "How to Build First-Rate Model Ships from Kits". (I should say I'm a little anxious about carving the hull, though). I also intend to learn how to post a build log (never done that either), so I might need some advice along the way from some of you salty, seasoned veterans of ship-building. Outside interests include Wounded Warriors Project, UNC Children's Hospital, and Goathouse Refuge for orphaned pets. I just joined MSW yesterday, and I'm glad to be a part of your community. Thank you - Bob
  24. Clueline and Sheets

    Hope this isn't a silly question. Can anyone explain to me how the clueline and sheet are 'tied' together on topyard and topgallant when no sails are present?