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Found 61 results

  1. Heller Drakkar 'Osberg'

    I recently found a complete Heller Drakkar "Osberg" plastic model kit at a vide grenier. It's the version with the lighter yellow Heller panel on the top left of the box, so from about 1971! 5€ seems like a bargain. As was standard, glue and rigging and paint are not part of the kit. l have three questions:- 1.) What glue, other than that currently sold by Heller online is appropriate for this kit? 2.) The notes say use Number 16 thread for the rigging. The inevitable Google search identifies how complex thread description can be. The only ‘16’ I can find is a weight of 16, the equivalent of Tex of 105, denier 950, cotton count of 5 and a metric number 9. Is there a more suitable alternative ? 3.) The major pieces look very shiny. Is there any prep required before painting, other than a light sanding ? 4.) What paint is appropriate for a plastic model of this sort ? Many thanks in advance for your help.
  2. Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone that has done the Mamoli 1:90 victory and got to the end of the rigging and found they had enough string to complete the job? The more I look at people's builds on here the more I think there isn't gonna be enough string in the kit to do the job... The bag with the different sizes of string that came with my kit looks a little small to me. I haven't opened the bag yet to have a really good look at the strings, but from memory there doesn't look like there will be enough. My question is: Where can I buy some spares from? I would rather have more than enough and use the extra to tie some fancy knots with!!! than get halfway through and run out... I live in the UK, but getting stuff posted from abroad is easy enough. I eagerly await replies with hopefully some good news/tips/advice Till then, Kindest regards Spider
  3. AMATI HMAV BOUNTY

    I have just completed the hull and the deck on the Amati Bounty. I am now ready to start the masts and rigging.. Does anyone have better instructions on this as the Amati one is really bad. I assume the one big plan with the rigging diagrams is to scale Can I use that for measurements and tapering of the Masts. There is no area that show actual lengths or dimensions. So I assume I use that. Any help would be great to get the shrouds going and their placement. Thanks
  4. Fly Tying Tools

    I am about to rig my longboat model and while the rigging is simple, I would like to do a good job of it. There has been discussion on the forum about the use of fly tying thread thread and some mention of fly tying tools. Can anyone who has used fly tying tools comment on which tools they have found to be useful and how they are used? Thanks, Roger
  5. Good morning all, I am at the point of rigging my model of HMS Liverpool. Liverpool is a 28 gun, Coventry class, 6th rate, frigate. She was built in 1758. My model is as she would be about 1775, 1776. By that time, she had two rebuilds. Modelshipwright published Modelers Plans in one of their editions. Sadly, after doing much research, and consulting the Admiralty drafts, I found several inaccuracies. For example, it shows the pumps, capstains and such in their original position as designed. The admiralty drafts clearly show that they were relocated one deck higher, and this is noted in the book, The First Frigates. The Modelshipwright plan also has spars and rigging plans. These are in different scales (not noted) and clearly show a gaff and boom on the Mizzen. All of my sources (lee's, Steel, Lever Harland) note that the boom did not show up until 1790. It also appears that the ship still carried a mizzen yard. Would that be correct because some books show a gaff with a loose footed mizzen course? Now to the problem. Both Lees and Lever show the mizzen yard suspended by a jeer block. On the fore and Main masts, the jeer blocks hand from sling around the mast head above all of the other rigging (shrouds, stays etc). In lever, the jeer for the mizzen yard hangs from a sling around the mizzen masthead. Where does it hang and reave to the block on the mizzen yard? The crojack yard, for the period, had a truss. Below the crojack is where the mizzen lard lies against the mast. If the mizzen jeer block is slung from the mast head, and goes down the starboard side of the mast, how does it not interfere with the shrouds? In Lees, there are two pictures of the mizzen top for HMS Medway. The pictures don't show the detail very clearly, but it appears that the jeer block hangs abaft the mast. Am I interpreting that correctly? I suppose that I could make this easy and use a gaff instead of the yard, but I don't think that it is correct. All opinions welcomed. Regards, Tom
  6. I am researching the Sovereign of the Seas (1637), but this question could pertain to many other English and Dutch ships of the same era. Specifically, RC Anderson, in his book "The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast", notes that the knights associated with the fore and main masts were between decks (see pages 76-77 of his book). This implies that the ropes leading to the knights went through a hole in the deck. Is that correct? If not, how did they travel to the knights? If this is correct, then I have several questions: (1) Are there any "rules of thumb" for how big to make the hole? (2) Was the hole directly above the knight or somewhere else? If somewhere else, where? (3) Was the hole covered in any way (such as with a leather flap) to keep water from leaking through it to the lower deck where the knight was? (4) Was there any protection on the ropes that led to the knight to protect them from abrasion? Thanks so much for your help!
  7. Hi all I'm building a 1:12 yacht model, the actual boat would be 28 foot hull (around 9m) & a 20th century yacht - so the shrouds would be wire perhaps 8 to 10mm diameter actual (or 0.65 to 0.8 or 1mm diameter to scale). The actual rigging would be stainless steel, so it would be nice for it to look like that. It needs to be straight when tensioned a bit, it won't look any good with kinks. Also, I think that some texture is preferable, to replicate the texture of the SS wire, but I'm open to solid... I'm be grateful for any suggestions, thanks Mark
  8. Sheet

    Just out of general interest, I am trying to work out what they did with the sheet (sheet line) when furling the spritsail on a 17C square rigger. The following diagram shows the sheet pendant attached to a bottom clew. What sort of knot would have been used ? From what I can ascertain, when the sail was furled, the sheet and its pendant was temporarily attached further inboard along the yard ? Any help would really be appreciated. Pete
  9. As I wrote in a post a few days ago I am starting to rig a model of the Scottish Maid using an Artesania kit. I find the rigging instructions confusing to say the least (this is likely to be the first of many!) In the Artesania diagram the rigging for the gaff and boom is very confused. Firstly, I would have thought that the halliards should be attached further along the gaff to give a sensible amount of leverage. Secondly, there doesn't seem to be enough blocks to rig both the gaff and the boom. A diagram that I found in Underhills book shows the boom lift as 2 blocks attached to the tree trestles as shown. Does this seem a sensible arrangement for the Scottish maid? I'm also unclear as to where on the deck these ropes would be anchored. In the kit instructions, after describing planking the hull they say that all the hard work has been done and all you have to do is rig the model as per the diagrams - Ha!
  10. I'm building a model of the Scottish Maid and am in the early stages of rigging her. I'm using the kit guides and also the Underhill book volume 2. The Underhill guide is far more detailed, but uses so many technical terms that I find it very hard to follow. Basically what I would like is a way of understanding which part of the rigging does what as that would help me to get it right (albeit in probably a simplified form). In some cases it is fairly obvious, but the function of some lines I find obscure. I realise that the answer to my question will depend on the type of rig and the era in which the vessel was built.
  11. Hello, I just ran across my daughter's copy of Ashley's Book of Knots by Clifford W. Ashley. It is probably the definitive work of knots for rigging ships and other ropework. It is an excellent reference work for modellers, but if you intend to apply the knowledge in everyday life, be very very careful to form the knots correctly. https://archive.org/details/TheAshleyBookOfKnots
  12. Have a question for the group... I am looking at building either the Rattlesnake or the Niagara kit. Of the two, which is the most difficult when it comes to the rigging? I have experience in build wooden ship kits, with some experience with rigging (primarily on 1/96 Revell Constitution kit ) I have been following both the Niagara and Rattlesnake builds... Any and all responses welcome... TIA
  13. Hello friends, i have searched my books for a correct term, hope i found it... i am looking to find out how to tie one double block to a main topgallant crosstree on my Vic model. for those who would be also building victory from model space kit, its the 7mm double block from step 7 stage 64. i cannot seem to see how is this block tied to the mast... i assume that it would be same as the 5mm block that is also mentioned in there, which i also dont have a clue how to do. thank you in advance. pavol
  14. Over the last few months, I have worked through a very challenging task of creating a set of files that cover the rigging of the Royal William. They include text, diagrams and photos arranged in a sequential order of rigging. They are freely available for anybody who wishes to make use of them and it is my fervent desire that they will add to the joy of creating this mighty ship. Having said that, there is still some work to be done on these files to fully complete them. Hopefully, the MSW members will 'jump in' and make this a real community effort through a range of ideas, suggestions and criticisms. I feel that this task is more than one person can handle so I will wait to see what happens. The files concerned range from RW.06 through to RW.10. The link to the Euromodel website is .... https://www.euromodel-ship.com/eng/royal-william-i-i.php Pete
  15. I'm struggling with a rigging question for my current built, the Corel Ranger, which is a fictional version of a US Revenue Schooner from around 1820. The plans for the standing rigging show only one normal shroud per mast (per side), with no allowance for ratlines. Then it shows two other lines from the top of the mast, through the crosstrees, down to blocks along the rail and deck, which appear to serve as shrouds but are not listed as such and don't use deadeyes or blackened lines. My confusion is twofold: One, what are these other lines for, as they don't appear to be operational (don't attach to any sails, yards, gaffs, etc) but aren't treated as standing rigging either. Two, with only one shroud per mast and no ratlines, how would sailors reach the crosstrees and the upper yards/gaffs for handling the topsails and any other repairs? One respondent in my build log suggested a bosun's chair, which might make sense for occasional access, but the crew would have to get up there quickly and commonly in normal sailing operations. Below is my attempt to diagram the situation. Most of the contemporary images I can find show these schooners with two or three shrouds per mast (per side) with ratlines, as I would expect. So is the kit just full of guano when it comes to this rigging plan, or is there a reason to do it this way? I would greatly appreciate any advice.
  16. Not a Parrel

    On the Royal William (launched in 1650 and final refit by 1719), the lateen yard is shown in the attached image as being supported by a truss made entirely of rope and not the usual trucks/ ribs that I associate with a parrel. Can anybody throw light on this form of truss. Did it actually exist ? When ? Any information would be appreciated. Pete
  17. Hi all, in preparing the mast before attaching yards and stepping. I'm confused by these pendants, once served with an eye splice, is the main stay passed through the splice and back down to be secured? Or is a hook attached to the stay and attached to the eye slice loop. I'm trying to get needed all standing rigging on the masts in place so when the yards are hung any additional standing and running rigging (stays and back stays) will be easier to install. Hope this is clear. Thanks for your help in advance. I wish you all and all those near and dear to you a joyous season. Mark
  18. Hello Everyone, I have a question about making the yard parrals. About a month ago my wife took me to HOBBY LOBBY for her to get jewelry supplies. While there I noticed that they have "seed beads" that are made of wood and the same size as the blue/black glass beads that are supplied in kits for the parrals. I thought wow! I went and purchased some. Am I correct in my thinking to use these wooden seed beads for parrals? My thinking is that in ancient ships they would not have used glass due to the fracturing/manufacturing issues and depending on the time frame are manufacturers trying to simulate iron? Any advise and comment would be welcome. As my wife says, I am too much of a perfectionist at this hobby (I LOVE IT, fits my old sarge personality!) .
  19. New to model making.

    Hi, I have inherited a Shipways Kit No 2040. My dear friend had almost completed the hull and I will soon be starting on the remainder of the build. I am a woodworker and woodturner but this is my first venture in ship building. My first job will be to make and fit the Channels so if anyone else has made or is making this kit I would appreciate a share of their knowledge and hopefully answer some questions which will no doubt arise as I progress. Thanks, Kev (UK)
  20. Hello everybody! I finished 3D model rigging of the brig Mercury. Only rigging and sails
  21. Anyone know of any suppliers of decent larger size rigging blocks. I'm building an RC square rigger at 1/36 scale and need blocks about 7-12mm in size. They don't have to be functional, just strong and look the part in wood.
  22. Hello Modellers: I am building the old Denmark 1:75 scale and am looking for suitable material for shear poles. As I understand the term, these are the metal rods that are placed between the rigging pins to keep them from turning and they function as the first couple of rungs up to the ratlines on the shrouds. I've included a photo showing the fore mast starboard pins. I constructed them with paper clip wire and 1mm brass tubing. I need to install the shear poles but have a couple of questions. (1) should they be installed between the pins and if so, how, or should they be attached to the outside and overlap the pins slightly. (2) In either case, what material would be suitable? I could cut short lengths of wire and try to glue them in-between the pins but I sense this would be extremely difficult and might not result in a uniform look. Attaching them to the outside allows me to align them but don't know the best material to use (wire, wood, ??) All suggestions and experience gratefully welcome. HKC
  23. I'm getting nearer to finishing my Heller HMS Victory and I am at the stage where I am literally tying up loose ends. I had installed all the running rigging but most of it was left dangling and not made off to anything so I could have flexibility and access to the deck. Now I am belaying the lines going from fore to aft. The foremast looks great and the bow area is now clear of Irish pennants and lose ends.. , But I have come across something I find odd: the Fore Topsail Braces belay to the second skid beam. This strikes me as an odd and awkward and hard to access place to put these frequently used lines. There are many lines of running rigging on a ship, but the Fore Topsail braces are on the short list of lines you will be using all the time. And they are lines which will be under a LOT of strain and which will require a lot of crew to take up on. . John McKay, Longridge and the Heller instructions themselves have them belaying in this odd place (although the kit instructions may indicate the rail at the forward edge of the hatch, the kit has a molded on pin where the others say the lines belay). Lees doesn't specify where they belay in his section on Fore Topsail Yards. . The lines begin on the main stay close to the main mast then run to the blocks on the yardarms. From there they come right back to lead blocks on the stay, close to where they originated. From there they run forward down the stay to another pair of lead blocks on the stay above the belfry, and from there to a lead block on the forward edge of the hatch (or a fairlead in a timberhead there?) then belay to a fore and aft pin which pierces the second skid beam. The references I have that show the pin show it several feet away from the gangways, not within easy reach of someone standing there. . The only way this makes sense to me is if the crew were intended to handle the line from the gundeck below. Which makes me wonder then why it wouldn't belay on a big hefty cleat on the bulwarks there. Why above their heads in a place difficult to access? Why not on one of the timberheads at the forward edge of the hatch? The way it is rigged it zigzags through space quite a bit and I believe it could have been lead nearly anywhere with the resources it is using. So why is it 1/4 of the way inboard on a skid beam, which I believe would be a difficult place for anyone to manage it?
  24. Can anyone help with pictures or info on how the anchor was rigged? I would like to have anchor lines on the gun deck from the capstan forward to the anchor to as though the anchor was being lowered or raised. Were the anchors rigged so both were raised/lowered at the same time? Thanks
  25. Hello everyone. I am currently building Model Expo's Fair American and am rather disappointed with the plans. They don't show any detail about the running rigging, particularly the bowsprit, Does anyone have suggestions on books, pics or other resources to consult?

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