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Found 26 results

  1. Have you ever browsed through your favorite build to see what the full build looks like at the present time? Have you ever wondered what else is being built on MSW 2.0, it may be a kit, scratch, R/C, card or plastic, or any other material, including digital reconstruction. I am inviting all members to post a latest photo of their build (side elevation)and a link to that build, so everyone can see what it looks like, and give others an idea of what else is going on. I am not trying to create a multitude of build logs under one topic, just photo’s so we can all see what is going on. This will possibly help others in deciding on what to build next Anyone interested?
  2. Hello all together, after more than one year absence of model ship building and this forum I still have realised a couple of weeks ago that the older forum disappeared including all blogs. So now we are on version 2.0. I did launched a new business and it was important to spend all my energy in this project, especially during the first months that are the most critical ones. However, after a view on Dirk's fabulous Siren log I have got ispired to follow up with my Mercury project and did the outer tree-nailing as well as the first steps to do the hand rails. Unfortunately I have no copy of the blog on the older MSW. But here some reminders about the model. The ship is based on K.H. Marquardt's draughts in the late 80's. As I was a young boy I have got from my dad, he was a fisherman, a book from the so called Blue Series from Hinstorff Publishing in East Germany. Both the country and the publishing house doesn't exist anymore. But since these days I had in mind to build one of his three described ships as the gunboat Axel Thorsen from the Royal Norwegian Navy, the skiffboat Elgen from the Royal Danish-Norwegian Navy and last but not least the schooner HM Colonial Schooner for Port Jackson. In 2011 I have heard about an English version of this book with an additional plan for the Enterprize and did an order. What a positive surprise. It is not just added by one additional plan. I guess it the original masterpiece from what the older German book was printed as an abstract, missing all passages related to the navies of the so called imperialistic class enemy - what a nonsense. The book is really a masterpiece about schooners and belongs into any bookshelf of a serious collection. And, it shows the plans for sail, masts and yards that are still missing in the German version. Perfect. That's what I was waiting for and did a start with the Mercury, what was, following Mr Marquardt, the name for the so called Schooner for Port Jackson. I guess the name was given locally in Australia after assembling all parts on-site. That's why probably the draughts at NMM are also just titled as Schooner for Port Jackson. Hope, my time allows my to frequently continuous with my little tiny schooner. Cheers, Daniel
  3. Hello! I'm going ti fight through my Tancook Whaler more in a mania of wrath and ira than in enthiusiasm meanwhile. I assume I picked out the worng example of a boat... The whaler may have been too complex for a beginner's project? Due to its open hull and visable formers? ...and the visable planking's inside so I can't fiddle around with the (told to be much easier) doubled planking ? So I do need a simple prototye - even if you fell in love to "her" she may not reciprocate your feelings... a buoyant femme fatal - nice and gentle to your eye but resentful and vitriolic to your heart. You get mad in stalking her... you fall in love but can't stand up any longer... she is pressing you down... leaves you behind with a broken heart ...and a bitter black bile. So what I learned is I need an enclosed deck to hide what's underneath... A most simple arrgangement of rigging... a schooner a latin set of sails. A scale arround 1/2 inch to the foot. As I curved through the scratched part of building threads here I found a plenty I'd lke to build but I'm affraid to be unable to build anything of theis... The U.S.R.C. "Eagle" (Built after Blueberry plans) looks nice but the rigging get's a bit too complex. - so I may reduce it down to a hullmodel? What is your answer? ...you pice of advise first hand. Yours Moony
  4. Hello to all of you... "Every voyage starts with the first step." is an old Japanise saying... so I'll step foreward in a brandnew terrain to me. The kitfree built I start is about a Nova Scotia Museum's Tancook Whaler built in 1979 and still afloat - last known pictures are from the Small Reach Regatte 2014 - http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?161372-A-celebration-of-small-schooners - she was driven by John Eastman and Ben Fuller. My information is from the book of Rob. C. Post "The Tancook Whalers - Origins, Reduiscovery and Revival". The drwaings with in are very fine and - as I enlarged them they stayed fine. The planset can be found on page 62 and 63 the also scaled sail plan is printed on page 81. (If I'm lucky with building this schooner - I'll buy the Chapelle plans from the Smithsonian. So I decided to dare the first scatchbuilt with a small boat in a big scale.. so the result will be one foot long - as long as a modern Tamiya tankkit. It's a really tricky thing you do!!! My deference to all of you... ...modelbuilding without any even semi-manufactured model part... a completly new experience to a modelbuilder spoiled by Tamiya oder Dragon kits. So thinks differ a lot to plasic kit building. Okay I got it - the hull is bult upside down... and the bulkheads are rectangular to two planes - the baseboard as the the CWL. the bulkheads are slipped in the mortises of the baseboard - looking that CWL comes equal to CWL. I've bought some 4mm plywood for the innerhull (the stem and stern are 4mm thick. And I've got a flat 12mm plywood pice fore the yardboard I'll vave to fits everything on. I#ve found this very often in here - so I copied this. This is what I got by leafing through the webside. But now I've got some questions left: But how do I get the stem and stern to the basebaord - can I glue them to it? I think I'll have to look at every singe bulkhaead if it is open to the top my comparing with the profile drawing - and the drawing the new lineing in there - is that right? Thanks for your intrest and your answers. Yours, Moony
  5. SMS Trinkstein Not too long ago, I was visiting my moms family in the austrian Alps near Vienna. Then trekking a bit the mountains, I found her, in 1850 meters altitude, well hidden in the secret austrian dockyards, the SMS Trinkstein, the proud flagship of the Austrian Mountain Navy :-) 

 The sharp lined heavy metal bow and the magnificent curves, build out of the finest local materials that made her as strong and imperturbably as possibly, made my immediately cry of happiness. Later on, in the mountain hotel, after some touristic Germknödel (yeast dough dumpling with a mix of poppy seeds and sugar, filled with spicy plum jam and melted butter on top), some Jagertee (mixing overproof rum with black tea. It is served warm and is typically consumed during winter), some Schnaps (translation unnecessary) and some more Jagertee my mind started drifting away ... ... and I saw her, the SMS Trinkstein ploughing with 11 to 12 knots through the transhumance of the Rax-Schneeberg-Plateaus, battering the elements into submission. And I recognised the SMS Trinkstein as a two masted flush deck frigate, a ship of the late Stonehenge-class, introducing the cruiser stern much earlier than any other nation. In many respects these classes were unique in many respects, but it is difficult to gather information due to the secret bases they operate from. Length over all stones is about 7,635 fathom, extreme width about 6,7 ell. The crew usually were some. And my inner eye saw the building up of the mountain waves, the storm-battered ground, cut by the sharp lined heavy metal bow ... ... and the massive stone breast hooks, giving the needed strength to the stempost ...


 
 


 

... down to the enormous kelsons needed for the ultimate stable installation of the masts Also I saw emerging the great bow wave, being pushed forward by the vast brutal strength of the bow though the untouched earth leaving battered earth and scattered stones all over behind. Yes I was able to hear and feel that. The ships mascot was arriving soon ... ... as was the rest of fresh pressed crew with their cute blue and white dress uniforms.

 And there he came, with proudly shown chest, our flamboyant master and commander, receiving his hat and uniform ...

 


 ... and being the proud conquerer of earth, wind and daisies, master of the elements :-)


  6. Hi there, I would need some help with the identification of the ships type this model ship hull was originally built for (see images). I bought this from a collector from GB in a relatively bad condition. It had a scratch built superstructure of a motor yacht on top, which dated from a later modification and so relatively soon it was clear, that it was originally meant for a different kind of (steam) ship. The hull was meant to take up a steam plant and a Stuart BB engine was still fitted to the model, when I received it. Nonetheless I am not able to determine its age precisely, it is for sure a pre war built, made from a solid block of pine wood to a remarkable quality and precision. It is approx. 48" long (o/a) with a 7" beam. The hull has a very characteristic cruiser like stern, but the relation between length and beam seems to be a bit untypical for such a big ship from my point of view. As the original grounding was of a dark grey or dark green color, it might also have been some kind of Royal Navy ship. Up to know I was not able to determine the ships type to my satisfaction and am kindly asking for your help and support on this topic. Regards, Markus
  7. My next project is the Chaloupe Armee en Guerre or Longboat Armed for War. This will be a scratch-built model at a scale of 1:36, from the plans available here: http://www.ancre.fr/vaisso25.htm. I ordered my copy of the monograph and plans direct from ANCRE and they came speedily and at a very reasonable rate of postage. This is the first publication from ANCRE that I have seen, and I must say I'm impressed. The six sheets of plans are drawn beautifully and the accompanying booklet, which describes the boat and the construction process, is very well laid out. There are many illustrations of the construction process, as well as detail photos of a 1:18 version of the same boat. I should note that the original text was in French and has been translated into English by David H Roberts, who has done an excellent job. Whilst finishing my Agamemnon (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1115-hms-agamemnon-by-decoyman-caldercraft/) I have been collecting pieces of wood I thought might be useful when scratch-building. I discovered The Toolpost (http://www.toolpost.co.uk), a treasure trove of woodworking equipment, in Didcot, about 15 minutes drive from where I live. They have a good selection of hardwoods and fruitwoods, mostly in turning blanks, as well as a selection of pieces of boxwood of varying sizes. They were also happy to cut every piece I bought into 1" slices on their bandsaw. This means I can now machine them to exact dimensions on my Byrnes table saw, which is a pleasure to use! I haven't finally decided which woods to use where, but I'm starting with apple for the keelson and ribs and will probably use cherry for the planking. I acquired a box full of odd pieces of wood, including a large amount of ebony, from eBay for a very reasonable sum: I might try turning one of the ebony pieces to make the large bow-mounted cannon. The picture above shows (from the top) ebony, apple, box and cherry. Before I could get going on the good stuff I needed to make a mould, over which the basic hull will be constructed. The instructions say to make this from 5 mm ply, which actually measures nearer to 4.5 mm thick. Unfortunately French plywood is not available in England; here we have 3 mm and 6 mm, which isn't much use. In fact the nearest thing I could find was 4 mm MDF, available on the internet in packets of ten 400 x 300 mm sheets at a reasonable price. This is still not thick enough. The mould is made from layers cut to the shape of the waterlines, if the layers are too thin then the whole boat will end up compressed vertically. My solution was to interleave the MDF with layers of 0.5 mm cherry veneer, which I happened to have around, so that each layer was 4.5 mm in total. There were some benefits to this method: I could glue photocopies of the plans to each piece of veneer and then cut out each layer accurately using a scalpel. Once that was done I coloured the edges with a black permanent marker. This was so when I sanded the mould to its finished profile I knew that when I reached the black I was nearly there. The next step was to glue the veneers to the MDF and remove the photocopies. I left them to dry overnight, interleaved with cling film and weighted down, and then cut each MDF layer out with a fret saw, slightly larger than the veneer stuck to the top. Each layer was drilled on the centreline at stations 5F and 5A and then stacked up and glued in order with dowels in the holes to provide alignment. I used dowels instead of the drill bits because I could sand the dowels along with the MDF. There was a lot of arm-aching sanding to bring the mould to its final form. I used a Surform for quick removal and then coarse sandpaper on a block for accuracy. The end result was pretty accurate but not perfect. To check the profiles while sanding I glued copies of the frame profiles to 1.2 mm card, as well as the keel. I used these to check I was getting the shape right, but I also cut them so they would slot together. Once the mould fitted all the card frames and the keel I was just about done! In the last of the photos above you can see marking out for the recesses to take the keelson and the knee of the stern. To ensure the keelson recess was the right size I made a start on this piece. It's cut from a piece of 2.3 x 6 mm apple on the table saw, which I also used to cut the rebates for the frames. It curves up towards the stern so I soaked it in hot water for a while, then taped it to the mould. Once the keelson had the correct profile I used it to adjust the recess in the mould. The last thing to finish the mould were two coats of varnish and a polish. The purpose of this is to protect the markings showing the frames and the wales and to try to stop the glue sticking the frames to the mould. We'll see how we get on with this in due course. In the meantime the next task is to bend the frames round the mould. More soon! Rob
  8. Hi All, This is my first Scratch Build Log on MSW. I am currently in the closing stages of my Caldercraft/Jokita HM Mortar Vessel Convulsion build, and needed a break from the tiny bits of the build, so I started this build. Background: Since I was a kid, I've been building, modifying, tweeking, and sailing on sailing boats, from Optimist dinghies to large Swan 65's, but my real ambition in life is to build a sailing boat for myself. About 3 years ago I decided that I would build the Vagabond Keel Sloop designed by the Naval Architect Edwin Monk. Vagabond measures 19'-6" (6.00 metres), and the study plans were available in a book called "How to Build Wooden Boats - With 16 Small-Boat Designs", written by Edwin Monk. The design is for a hard chine hull shape, making it easy to build for the novice boat builder, but my intention for my potential full scale build was to soften up the chines, and make her hull slightly easier on the eyes, and quicker on the water. So why build this model? Firstly, it's is to see what the hull form looks like in reality. I can just about read hull drawings, and understand the sheer lines and profiles, but I'm not a boat builder or Naval Architect, so it's not as simple as reading the lines and putting two and two together. Secondly, I spoke with my mother on Sunday night. She said she wanted me to build her a "little boat" that she "could put on her mantle piece". No matter how many times you say "I don't have the space for another model build", or "I don't have enough materials", you can not say "no" to your mother! So I had a think, and thought about my aspirations with Vagabond a few years earlier, and decided to do it! I decided to build Vagabond as it seemed like an easy build, with a simple rig, and looks pretty! Meets all the criteria! Build Process: The plans are drawn (or have been redrawn) at a scale of 1:20, so I directly transferred the dimensions from the study plan to the model. Having study plans readily available in the book, and having three strips of 1/8 inch Balsa (3mm Think), I started by tracing over the outline of the keel and main bulkheads, four in total, and doubled them up to make them 1/4 inch thick. Using some square stock balsa I had remaining from my Convulsion build, I used that to square up the bulkheads and attach the deck (1/8th Balsa) to the keel. Because this boat is designed with fairly agressive chines (it was designed in the 50's or 60's, so the chines haven't been 'optimised' like modern day performance yachts), I rounded off the corners of the chines and using the study plans measured out the planks on both sides. I ran the planks along the bulkheads and trimmed them to suit, pinning and gluing them down when happy. To give additional strength to the balsa, I squeezed a blob of PVA glue on to the planks, and ran it along all the seams between balsa planks. After the PVA glue had 24 hours to dry, I covered the whole hull in wood filler, to smooth out any areas that may be dipping, and left out any raised areas. I've not taken any photo's at this point as it is has been a "spur of the moment" build, it's only now that I've decided to start a build log. Next Stage of Build: So, my next objectives on the build are to sand the hull smooth, and then plank the hull with the remaining Walnut strips from my Convulsion and President builds. The waterline will be painted white, and the topsides either varnished or oiled. The cockpit and deck will be painted white, and the cockpit coamings and dog house will be planked in walnut as well. I am employing my wonderful Admiral to make sails, as she is a wizard with the needle and thread! I will also build Pushpits and Pullpits from brass for the bow and stern. This is will be the first time I will have soldered brass since Secondary School, so I may be taking a few attempts with this aspect of the build. I also have a fairly limited time scale to complete this build, as my mum wants the model before she goes away on holiday for a few weeks in the middle of April. I'm not sure if I can meet this deadline, but I certainly will try. I will be posting photo's of the build soon. Cheers, Jonny
  9. So I've done enough lurking and stalking of all your wonderful build logs... the time has finally come for me to start my own. I have never built a model before and have attempted to start this particular one a few times over the last decade. Every time I start a soon discovered I need something more; a better set of plans, better tools, more patience etc. I do believe I am now finally ready to take the plunge and start. Proper set of plans, bought from Mr John Mckay - check Proper tools (no need for make shift tools) - check Proper planning - check Proper work space - eh... almost there Patience - check, check. So wish me luck, as I hope to start this coming weekend. M
  10. Hello: My name is Luis and I live in Mexico City. I have always admired the ships from the napoleonic era. I have built scale models for quite a few years now, both scratch and from kits, but this is the first time I post a building log. This ship is the spaniard 80 gunner "Neptuno". Built in 1795 in El Ferrol shipyards, in Spain, she fought at Trafalgar under Captain Cayetano Valdez's command. Taken by the British after a four hour combat, she was recaptured by the Spanish crew but was beached and lost during the storm that followed the battle. The model will be completely stratch-built, out of styrene, cardboard, basswood and balsa wood. Cutting out the paper templates for the frames. Designs for transom and stern gallery False keel. The material is styrene False keel, keel and rudder Stem Frames, starting from stern Quarterdeck
  11. Hello everyone, this is my first posting on here. About two years ago I scratch built a model of the Black Pearl. it was my very first ship model and it turned out not to bad. but I wanted to do something bigger and better. So, i'm just now drawing out the plans for a new model. the first was about 24" long, but this one ill be about 4 feet. It will be all scratch built with wood. i'm still kind of new to ship building and have a lot of questions about rigging and such, hope I can get some help when I get to that step. thanks a lot!
  12. From the album HMS Bellerophon 1/150

    HMS Bellerophon. I built her following the blueprints of a traditional English frigate of the XVIII century. This model is a generic frigate, and has no relation with the real, second rater ship of the line HMS Bellerophon, which carried Napoleon to Saint Helena island. Hull is made of styrene, built with a plank on bulkhead technique. Cannons are brass and masts are balsa wood. The figures are taken from a train maquette kit and painted to fit the uniforms of the time. Sadly, no building log for this one.
  13. I am thinking about building the rattlesnake from scratch. As a first project, I am now thinking of something with fewer frames. My goal is to make an admiralty type model, or partial admiralty Any thoughts are welcome. Thanks Ira.
  14. I have1 copy available of the French Naval Gabare le Gros Ventre, by Gérard Delacroix for offer (the ship was designed by Jean-Joseph Ginoux and built in Bayonne by Leon Michel Guignace 1766-1779). This copy is still in its original shrink-wrap and is a 2003 Ancre / Pier Books first English edition. The work was translated from the French original by Marie-France Saconie, Gilles Korent, and Pierre de Granvillier. The monograph is 135 pages, and includes 2 black and white and 3 color illustrations, along with 4 charts, 7 drawings, 34 plans, and 29 color photos. The 34 folded plans are 1:48 scale. The monograph and plans are contained in a hard cover folder. Since the copy is still in its original shrink-wrap, I’m unwilling to open it to take additional photos (therefore, I also didn’t open it to inspect and verify its contents). However, you can check out Ancre’s web site at http://www.editions-ancre.com/Product.aspx?ID=3783261&L=EN to see pictures of the ship (click on the ship’s wheel icon; the photos are of Frölich’s model) and etc. My asking price is $94, without postage. Sorry I can’t go below that amount without taking a loss. Ancre is currently selling this English version for 128 € (~$177 USD). Although the ship doesn’t appeal to me, I thought others here on MSW might be interested in this work, so I grabbed 3 copies and now have just 1 left. I’m not a book dealer or etc., I just saw a decent deal and thought I’d pass it along. This is a heavy book, and is weighing in at about 6 lbs. 9oz (~3 kg). If you’re in the US, the USPS media rate with insurance is the way to go (after some recent poor experiences with the USPS, I HIGHLY recommend paying a couple of bucks for insurance). While I’m glad to ship abroad, the USPS’ postal rates are now outrageously expensive and their shipping options are very narrow. The USPS also now generally does not offer insurance on its international parcels, and they have limited their liability amounts. To give you an idea of the prices, sending a book to Canada will cost about $46 USD (insurance is available) and to the UK will cost about $65 (liability limited to ~$83). Those prices don’t include any possible customs/VAT fees. Anyway, if you want to get an idea of what postage will run to your location, here’s a link the USPS postage calculator: http://postcalc.usps.com (for those in the US, my zip is 80206). I have a PayPal account; if you’d like to know more, please feel free to contact me by PM. Thanks, Jay
  15. The plans for building this boat are in two issues of "Scale Wood-Craft", Spring and Summer 1986.(1a) Bottle and preparation I chose a bottle that is rectangular because I wanted a flat bottom and not much height. I am not going to add a putty "sea" for this ship. The bottle is 750ml, with "Holland Liquor Bottle" on the end. The bottle is 1 1/4" high and end to end 9" long. The opening is 7/8". The one in the plan is ¾". I cut the threaded part of the bottle at the end off because it's ugly and without the threads it looks like an old bottle. In some cases cutting it off also increases the opening ID. I used a diamond cut off wheel, 7/8" dia. I found a picture on line of a boat in a harbor at Cape Porpoise, Maine (7) that is just north of Kennebunkport. I then adjusted the size to fit part of it in the bottle for a background and sea. A Turks Head knot was added to the neck. Hull The ship is 5" long. I used a piece of white oak for the hull. The hull is spilt in order to fit it through the neck of the bottle. I cut the hull to size and once I had the two halves roughly shaped (1c) I drilled holes on one side for the dowels to hold the halves together. I drilled 3 holes but used two because it was too tight with three. The holes for the second half were found by painting the holes on the drilled side and mating the halves together to find the location for the other side (3). Once I shaped the hull (2) I added a rear rub rail and painted it white (4). I started cutting out the walls of the rear open cabin area but didn't like the way it came out so I added a bass wood strip to cover it. I then cut the deck piece for the bottom and painted the edge blue for the water line (6). I included a picture of the 30" Midwest model of the Boothbay Lobster boat (1b). I wanted to match the color scheme from this model. I covered the deck with mahogany veneer strips (5) that I had left over from a solid hull model of the Bluenose. I added the veneer so that the veneer hides the split line. You will notice that I added the rub rail along the sheer line. This is clear wood veneer, also left over from the Bluenose build. Using square 1/32 stock I outlined the inside edge of the veneer (called the coaming I believe). If I were to do this over again I would lower the height of the stock. {C} With the hull complete, I placed it in the bottle for location (10 & 11). Now that the ship is located I will piece together the bottom sea buy taking pieces of the blue sea in the photo (8). I will paint a reflection of the lobster boat in the water on the new piece that I will add (9). I added mahogany veneer to the lower deck, clear veneer strips on the hull where the traps are lifted, and varnished all wood surfaces.{C} Cabin The 3 lower cabin pieces are cut to size, portholes drilled and glued together as one piece (12). The plans have each piece going through the bottle separately but he used a 3/4" dia. bottle and mine is 7/8". I test fit the assembly through the bottle neck. The rear part of the cabin bends a bit because of the tight fit. The aft bulkhead for the cabin will go in after the 3 cabin pieces. The 3 upper window pieces I did the same thing. After painting I added acetate windows to the inside of the windows. The top roof piece is too wide for the bottles so I split it on the starboard edge, gluing a piece of paper to the back for a hinge (13) Sail: I plan to add a "sail" to the back of the boat. I saw this on bigger models. It's used to prevent rolling and steadies the boat when it's sitting into the wind. Working from a picture I made a sail using fine cloth and wood dowels (14). I found a plastic tube piece that the dowel mast fit into and glued it to the corner of the aft port side of the lower deck. I had to make sure that the total height included the tube and floor so it would go in the bottle. A wire loop was added to the aft deck for the line. Other parts (14 - 17) I made the engine cover from balsa with a hole to accept the wood dowel exhaust stack. An oversized hole was added to the roof for the stack. The antenna is wire with a hollow tube at the bottom end. A hole was drilled in the roof. The light on the roof was a buoy with the tip filed off. I added veneer to the edges of the two roofs. The railings were made from mahogany strips. In retrospect I made the railing too thick and high. I added a veneer hatch to the top roof. The lobster tank was made out of paper. The gear for lifting the pots was wire. The chocks (?) on the forward deck were wire bent to shape and filed flat on the bottom. Lobster traps and lobsters are etched brass sheets I bought. They are H.O. scale. It also came with the cast buoys. Because this is a square instead of round diameter bottle, I had to keep in mind that the antenna and mast must fit with less headroom. Also the engine exhaust stack since it goes in through a hole in the roof. When I went to put the exhaust in it almost didn't go. I had to round the end of the stack to get it in. Assembly in the bottle First I put in the two hull halves with glue on one side. Using two rods, I squeeze the two halves together in the bottle. I then added glue to the bottom of the bottle and put the hull in place. The lower cabin is next, then the cabin rear bulkhead. Then the upper window assembly was added. I use a long pair of tweezers to place the parts in place. Next is the hinged cabin roof with the rails, light, and buoy attached. Then the antenna was added. Next is the engine box against the rear cabin bulkhead. I put the trap raising "hook" (called a gallows and snatch block) in and then tried to add the support brace that attaches to the hook and the deck. I could not get this in position right so I took it and the hook out and wired and glued the brace to the hook and put it in as one piece. I put a trap on the hook and ran the thread around the "wheel pulley that is used to pull up the trap. I then added the sail. Once in I threaded the line through the eyelet I made on the rear deck. I added the tank, then the traps with the buoys attached. The man and lobsters I added last.