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Found 12 results

  1. I'm starting on a model of the Golden City, a paddlewheeler which operates on Ballarat's Lake Wendouree, run by volunteers and taking passengers for trips around the lake every summer Sunday (weather permitting). It is a replica of one of the paddlesteamers which did the same thing back around the turn of the 20th century (unfortunately destroyed by fire some years ago). It will be a Solid model, and I'm first making one at 1:50 to iron out the bugs. After that I'll be making another at 1:25 to present to the people who run her, who also run a museum dedicated to the vessel itself and its history. I've spoken to one of the organisers who's very keen on the idea - apart from anything else, visitors to the museum get disappointed when they can't see the vessel if she's out on the lake, so a decent sized model (68 cm or 27 inches long) would be a great help. I've actually started on both models already, and if it all works out I'll simplify the design and make multiple 1:50 models to sell to visitors, as a fund-raiser for both the museum and for the Men's Shed where I make stuff (and which has so many wonderful boys' toys, like bandsaws, lathes, bench saws etc etc). Here are some photos of her And some I took close up while she was in her boatshed. Plus photos of the plans which the museum kindly got out for me, and which I then redrew to make the model. And here are the smaller and larger models so far. As you can see in the first and second photos the deck overlaps the hull considerably. Upside down, showing the overlap. And with 'paddleboxes' - just cut from a bit of 20mm wood with a hole saw and cut in half. Comparative sizes - 1:50 in front and 1:25 behind. The two together with paddleboxes. The bit in front is the roof awning, which fortunately is flat. And another shot of the two together. (The phone camera reduces the size contrast in the first photo and exaggerates it in the second.) I think the most difficult bit for me will be the posts that hold up the awning and the railings. I can't see any way to make them except out of wire, and I'm currently rubbish at soldering. Well, another skill I'll need to learn . . . Steven
  2. I'm going to be building a model of the Continental Navy Frigate ALFRED using Bluejacket's solid hull kit. The ALFRED was one of the first ships commissioned into the Continental Navy in 1775. Converted from a new merchant ship she was John Paul Jones' first ship. I picked this kit because I've never done a 3-masted ship model before, and as much as I would love to build a clipper ship I simply don't have room for it, or to be more precise, as far as my wife is concerned there is not enough room in our house for both me and a large cased sailing ship model. Bluejacket's ALFRED meets my needs perfectly because the completed model is only about 18 inches long and 13 inches high but is fully detailed and it will fit on one of my bookcase shelves. I need to point out that this kit is NOT a good choice for a first build. BlueJacket uses a 1-9 scale to rate the complexity of their kits and this one gets a solid "9". Before choosing this kit you should have experience working with a solid hull kit and also with sailing ship rigging - this one has as much as a clipper ship kit but on a hull that is only about 1/3 as long so the rigging it will be an adventure. If you think you might like this one I encourage to call BlueJacket and talk to them - they are very helpful and can assist you in your decision. My next post will show the kit's contents.
  3. Picked up this vintage kit from @Cornhusker1956 back in August. Here is the build log, I promised. I do have a soft spot for these old kits. My first wood ship build was the Charles W Morgan by Marine Model Company. I built that kit in 2020. The date on the blueprint is 1951. This kit seems to have survived well and deserves to be rescued. This is a solid hull kit so my first order of business will be to get this “pre carved” hull into proper shape from stem to stern. Many thanks to @Cornhusker1956 for entrusting this little beauty to me. Cheers 🍻
  4. Here's the kit contents of the BlueJacket Mary Taylor pilot boat. The kit comes with copper tape, but I will be using individual plates on this model.
  5. 20201230 Got started on the Yacht America (Corel, 1:155, solid hull) on Sunday – which became sanding day. I also painted some of the smaller metal parts (anchors, cleats, bright work [primed only]) as glue was drying. As of this evening I have the hull sanded, keel in place and part of the upper works completed. I gave the hull a light prime coat of white paint along the way which actually helped bring out some of the minor hull imperfections that I hadn’t seen so it was back to sanding. I filled in along the keel (machined slot was a hair too big in a couple of spots) so there was more sanding needed in that area. Will do some more work on the hull tomorrow (hopefully finish at the end of this interesting year – yea!) and then plank the deck sometime this weekend.
  6. This is my 2nd build. Received the Mary Taylor kit for Christmas 2018. My first build was the Swampscott Dory from Bluejacket, so this is a real step up in difficulty. I'm excited to get started and welcome all helpful feedback. The instructions suggest two ways to shape the hull 1) by eye, or 2) using hull templates. Since I'm new at this, I've chosen the template method. It takes a bit more work, but should produce a more accurate hull shape. I've marked the station lines from the Body Line Plan. Now it's time to create the templates.
  7. I am a beginner at ship modeling but an experienced model builder of trains and structures used on model railroads. I work in O Scale (1:48) in model railroading. I have an old kit from Model Shipways I purchased many many years ago. It is solid hull. I have the complete kit and the optional hardward that was sold separately from the basic model. I know this is an advanced model but it is the only kit I have. The rest of the ship models I want to build will be all scratch built. I figured I should get me feet wet on the Flying Fish. In future ships I build will not be solid hull. I was looking for but can't seem to find on the internet any tutorials focused towards solid hulls. I do have a number of books on ship modeling and there is not too much on that type of hull. I also downloaded the Model Shipways tutorial but it deals with the newer kits which are not solid hull. Any advice, other than don''t do it, would be appreciated. Jay Beckham
  8. This is my first wooden ship build, as well as my first build log. the kit was given to me by my girlfriend for Christmas, even after she knows how i am with models in general. i finally decided to go for it and build the kit mostly stock, there are some mods i am doing, but nothing over whelming. you all know the story of the bounty so ill skip that part. the kit comes in a nice package with a fold up lid and window, very colorful and full of pictures. half of the step by step instructions are on the box in the form of pictures that show various steps. this is good for those who are just starting out, but a pain to have to keep the box just for a reference. the kit also comes with a few tools, some paint, rigging materials, a few bags of small parts both wood and metal. the metal parts are for the ships wheel, cannons, hand pumps, cabin windows. there is also a few bundles of wire. the wood isnt the best being a little thick for the scale, but it decent if it isnt a big deal to you. all the main parts are pre-die cut. the pre-carved hull is fairly rough, the whole thing needed sanding, and some areas needed reshaping. its not a kit i would say is entry level, due to the roughness of the hull and such unless you have experience in carving. id say the kit is better for someone with experience who is looking for a very simple and quick build. in doing my research i decided to copperplate the hull. many ships had this at the time so it seams only right to do so. in fitting and sanding the stem doesnt fit as it should, and in my opinion isnt usable. i sandwhiched two pieces of basswood sheets together and sketched a corrected stem on it. now i just have to take some time with my coping saw to cut it out. i might replace most of the pre-cut parts with my own, but we will see. the instructions say to carve planks into the solid hull, but instead im going to build a false deck and install it on top of the hull. it will allow me to really control the decking, and add that much more material to the lip for the sides. i will try and get some pictures when i can, my phone, which is my primary camera, tried its hand at swimming earlier this week, so snapping pics spur of the moment is out. anyway i hope you all enjoy this new journey with me
  9. Started my 1st ship kit this weekend. The Sultana in 1:64 scale by Model Shipways. This a solid hull kit, so I had some sanding and carving to do so that the supplied templates fit properly. The carving was required on both the inside and outside of the bulwarks to achieve the correct scale thickness. At an early stage, my "carving" turned into something more akin to gouging, so I turned to my xacto knife with a #11 blade and actually found it easier than using my chisels, which I couldn't seem to get a sharp edge on, even after minutes on the honing stone. Note the repaired area in the front (sorry- still don't know my nautical terms)...I had already sanded the outside of the hull up to my stopping point that I had marked, THEN I started carving the inside of the bulwarks to the required thickness. That is when I cracked the thin basswood in a couple of places. At least the breaks were clean, so I salvaged the pieced, used thin super glue, and carefully and quickly put them back in place. I dared not try sanding the area yet, but it will be my next step now that the glue has had a day to dry. Hopefully, my damage control will not show up later, as this hull will be painted.
  10. I have a small scale Sterling kit (about 1/80th, rather than the large RC kit) of the Emma C Berry, that I got so I can display this 2 masted version with the MS 1/32nd single masted one. She was built with the single mast, and several years later, converted to a 2 masted schooner. She sailed in this configuration, until donated to the Mystic Seaport museum, who restored her back to the as build setup. My question is how to reinforce the soft balsa solid hull. I know that such hulls dent and crack easily, and want to add some type of "substance" to toughen the surface. I'm looking for something tougher than regular paint.
  11. I am curious if anyone have carved or created a solid hull ship out of a block of wood? This would be similar to what you find in some of the MS kits like the Phantom or Sultana. What are the best power tools and steps to be able to accomplish this? Thanks JB
  12. This is not only my first wood model sailboat I’ve built, it is also my first build log so bear with me. I had always been fascinated with models and built numerous plastic ones as earlier as ten years of age. In fact my very first model, a B-36 “Peacemaker” was built by my father and given to me when I was just 7 or 8 years old. I think that was his first and only model he ever made. I suppose that’s when the bug bit. I always chose the more complicated ones so I ended up making WWII military ships. The cars and planes seem to me to be too simple. I usually never looked at the instructions and was able to put them together without too much of a problem. I think all I had was a pair of tweezers for tools. My models neat and clean but weren’t painted. I let the color of the plastic provide all the realisim. As I got older I started to paint. As I look back on it they probably weren’t great models but I had fun. Most if not all ended up being blow up with firecrackers. Hey, I was a kid! I graduated to the Guillows scale balsa and tissue paper planes and built them as static models. They were fragile and over the years they too met their demise. All this is leading up to my very first adult build, the Model Airways Albatross D.Va, a WWI German fighter; a “museum quality model.” It’s the plane that the Red Baron got most of his kills in. I chose that kit because it had the most number of parts for the fighter plane kits being offered. To build the kit, I started to accumulating materials, tools, etc., and a lot of what I purchased I bought from Model Expo. During one of those buying sprees, Model Expo had a deal whereby if you spent X amount of dollars they gave you a free model kit. I received the Mini Mamoli schooner Evergreen. According to the box cover this is a circa 1920’s British racing yacht. This particular kit was offered to customers by Model Expo for around $30 in 2006-7, but I haven’t seen it since nor have I been able to find anything about the actual boat on the Web. After completing the Albatross, I was a novice when it came to knowing the ins and outs of a sailing craft. I didn’t know the nomenclature, nautical terms, the mechanics of how a sail boat operates, etc., but I jumped into the water so to speak and started the kit January 2008. This would be my training wheels project for I had spied my next project even before I started this one. I wanted to build the Mamoli Rattlesnake. The Evergreen kit had the bear minimum of instruction and in some cases the picture on the box did not match what was in the box. Even some of the instruction illustrations contradicted each other. The final product as shown on the box cover left something to be desired which I shall explain in the build log.
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