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I just finished the first and only layer of planking on my Fair American. This being my first attempt at hull planking, I am very happy with the outcome. I used the 3/16" x 1/16" basswood strips supplied with the kit. The results can be seen here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10334-fair-american-by-captainjerry-model-shipways/page-3 This hull has a lot of sheer and a fair amount of drag. The distance from the keel to the wales is much greater at the stern than it is at the stem so it is clear that the planking will need to taper toward the bow, There are a few rules to follow. Too my eye, one of the most important is that a plank should not taper to less than half of it's maximum width. Pointy little planks at the bow look funny. My personal opinion is that while a plank may taper towards both ends, it should not then flair out at the end. To do so seems to indicate a narrowing of the hull in a kind of wasp waist shape. That might be done in modern high speed vessels but not on an 18th century vessel. Such a recurve line might also indicate an improperly tapered adjoining plank. I used steelers ( 2 at the stern ), and drop planks ( 2 at the bow ). I have always admired a well fitted steeler or drop plank and while my efforts are just that, a first effort, and not an example of the best, I don't understand the may posts that seem to indicate that a steeler is evidence of poor planning. Were steelers and drops not used on real ships? Was it a sign of poor design or a sloppy shipyard? Jerry (edit note) Link corrected, Try again if you got redirected to the wrong thread.- 15 replies
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