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Found 12 results

  1. Hello, this will be my build log of the Model Shipways Phantom New York Pilot Boat. Some things about myself: I got this kit for Christmas. I am thirteen and don't have a very high budget for tools or other things. My parents are divorced, so I will have to bring my kit back and forth. Fortunately, my papa (father) has a good amount of tools at his house. I do have some tools at my mama's (mother) house which I am currently at. My work space is also a little small, but it is a small boat . I will now start counting and sorting all the pieces. Have a Merry Christmas and I'll be back!
  2. Hi, A work associate of mine has a pond yacht that he would like to have restored to how it used to be at one time. It belonged to his dad, who passed away a few years ago. He has no history of this model. Hull is 30 inches long and 6 inches beam. All there is is the hull which is a bread and butter build and it has split apart. There are a few brass fittings on the deck which can be seen in the pictures below. The mast step may have had a piece of brass tubing soldered on which has most likely been broken off and could be easily fixed up. It was most likely home made, but the keel looks like it could have been commercial. Searching through the internet, I can't find anything that is close,but I should be able to come up with something to approximate the sails, standing and running rigging based on other pond yachts. The only thing that puzzles me is the steering gear. If it had a brain gear at one time, I can't figure out the function of the pin rail that runs fore and aft in front of the rudder shaft. I've already sent an email to the Vintage Model Yacht Group in the UK, but haven't hear anything back from them. I've had some correspondence with someone else who figured the model was based on Marblehead pond racing yacht. Yes, it does have some similarity to a Marblehead, I guess. The puzzler is the steering gear. Would anybody have any idea what it could have been? Thanks in advance, Bill
  3. Hi to all modellers ; Here I would like to share WIP photos of my recently built static lobster boat SUNRISE, which has just released from Kalyonmodel. It took approx. 50-60 hrs. to build ... Scale: 1/32 Hull length: 281 mm. Width: 78 mm. Height inc. stand: 103 mm. Number of pieces: 155 Kit includes 5 wood sheets (3 mm. birch plywood and 1,5 mm. ayous plywood), a 1 mm. acrylic sheet, 1,5x3 mm. ayous planking strips, brass accessory set and a decal set. All sheets are clean and precise laser cut. General fit of the parts is excellent. Simple and smart design of the kit is making the construction so easy and joyful. The correctly choosen scale provides construction and display easiness. Additionally, the construction manual consisting of 208 pages including over 600 WIP photos with detailed bilingual explanations is helping the modeller too much at all steps from A to Z. It’s price is too affordable. That’s why it can be a very good choice for new beginners and also for experienced modellers looking for a different and fun to build alternative. The design philosophy of the kit is giving the modeller a chance to make choice between different versions other than OOB version. Either yacht or fishing versions can be built by some additions, extractions or modifications along with different coloration. It also seems to be very suitable for diorama projects. I’m planning to build one more in yacht version in the following weeks… Further information can be found here. An ongoing group build can be found here. For any questions you may contact with no hesitation. Enjoy the photos … ( All the photos were taken with a 12 Mp semi-professional digital camera from distances of 5-20 cm. or closer in macro or supermacro mode. Please keep this in mind when looking at the photos.) Link to the album of finished model ....
  4. Hello everybody, every love begins in the heart, ant the channel to come to there are the eyes... Soo I felt in love to the Tancook Whaler - as I leaf through Chapelle's book about the American Small Sailing Ships - then I ordered the book of Robert C. Post... And due to the numbre of plans I would like to build my own Tancook Whaler... but don't know how. So I deided to start a membership between your model ship building specialists in here. This because I figured out this article here, too. But as I did not own a visa card I'm unable to order the kit so I orderd the Amati plan set - it will come in the next few days.. As the kit is told to be a beginners it I hope to find my way through it. Of some intrest it may be what I bring kind of experience with one. I come from the plastic warmachines part of the hobby. Dealing with 54mm tabletop figures and 1:35 tanks I'm well in painting and my workshop and tooling is geared to plasitic and resin - so I have to renew some tooling to wood I think. I'm happy to find colleges interested in this favourable schooner boats and finding an online helping hand with hints by building this boat. So I hope for your intrest - although my english is pain to your eyes - it's a right hand thing to read (old NRG magazines, model and a left hand thing to write any text on your own, So please be patient with my english My silly nickname is choosen by this evenings moon shining on my desk. Yours, Moony I found my avatar picture on http://www.scrimshawgallery.comit is a painting aclled: " Portrait of a small Nova Scotia schooner plying Mahone Bay with a full load of passengers" by William Gilkerson
  5. Hello, I just received the ship, imaged attached, and need some help with identification. This was a ship my grandfather started restoring that was passed to my farther and now me. I do not believe they were able to make much progress at all and I would like to at least strip off the old paint, repair the rigging and sails, as well as missing pieces. My first question is any idea the make or model of this ship? Or how to determine what the sale sizing and quantity should be? From there is there any place to order the rigging and sails from? I am an engineer so am typically good with my hands and repairs, but I know nothing about modeling ships. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also this ship is big, like over 40" X 14" X 40" I can provide detailed dimensions once I am home. Thanks!
  6. Hello. I desided to place this build log on MSW for several reasons. Although the model is complete before nearly 6 months, this boat is included in the biggest kits from "Master Korabel", and if build one of them, You will be must build this boat. This is very cheap kit, but You can build very nice separate model. And at least - this is simply, but not very easy to build kit. The parts are very small, must be glued and sanded very precise. It will be very good experience for You. This is my first kit from "Master Korabel" and I love it... Now, what are in package of this small 75 mm lenght boat: The boat planks are laser cutted from the pear wood. The other parts are from the pear too, except the oars. Now let's begin. At first make marks on the plate as shown in the photo. The red color arrows shows the laser marks. The green arrows - my marks by pencil. This will be usefull to place the parts before to glue it. Then removed teh keel parts as the shown from the plate. Then glued keel parts together. Sanded the other parts at an angle, as shown on the photo. How many to sand are wery easy to see. The parts has marks, made by the laser. Then keel and sanded parts are glued together. Regards, Antanas
  7. My next project is the Chaloupe Armee en Guerre or Longboat Armed for War. This will be a scratch-built model at a scale of 1:36, from the plans available here: I ordered my copy of the monograph and plans direct from ANCRE and they came speedily and at a very reasonable rate of postage. This is the first publication from ANCRE that I have seen, and I must say I'm impressed. The six sheets of plans are drawn beautifully and the accompanying booklet, which describes the boat and the construction process, is very well laid out. There are many illustrations of the construction process, as well as detail photos of a 1:18 version of the same boat. I should note that the original text was in French and has been translated into English by David H Roberts, who has done an excellent job. Whilst finishing my Agamemnon ( I have been collecting pieces of wood I thought might be useful when scratch-building. I discovered The Toolpost (, a treasure trove of woodworking equipment, in Didcot, about 15 minutes drive from where I live. They have a good selection of hardwoods and fruitwoods, mostly in turning blanks, as well as a selection of pieces of boxwood of varying sizes. They were also happy to cut every piece I bought into 1" slices on their bandsaw. This means I can now machine them to exact dimensions on my Byrnes table saw, which is a pleasure to use! I haven't finally decided which woods to use where, but I'm starting with apple for the keelson and ribs and will probably use cherry for the planking. I acquired a box full of odd pieces of wood, including a large amount of ebony, from eBay for a very reasonable sum: I might try turning one of the ebony pieces to make the large bow-mounted cannon. The picture above shows (from the top) ebony, apple, box and cherry. Before I could get going on the good stuff I needed to make a mould, over which the basic hull will be constructed. The instructions say to make this from 5 mm ply, which actually measures nearer to 4.5 mm thick. Unfortunately French plywood is not available in England; here we have 3 mm and 6 mm, which isn't much use. In fact the nearest thing I could find was 4 mm MDF, available on the internet in packets of ten 400 x 300 mm sheets at a reasonable price. This is still not thick enough. The mould is made from layers cut to the shape of the waterlines, if the layers are too thin then the whole boat will end up compressed vertically. My solution was to interleave the MDF with layers of 0.5 mm cherry veneer, which I happened to have around, so that each layer was 4.5 mm in total. There were some benefits to this method: I could glue photocopies of the plans to each piece of veneer and then cut out each layer accurately using a scalpel. Once that was done I coloured the edges with a black permanent marker. This was so when I sanded the mould to its finished profile I knew that when I reached the black I was nearly there. The next step was to glue the veneers to the MDF and remove the photocopies. I left them to dry overnight, interleaved with cling film and weighted down, and then cut each MDF layer out with a fret saw, slightly larger than the veneer stuck to the top. Each layer was drilled on the centreline at stations 5F and 5A and then stacked up and glued in order with dowels in the holes to provide alignment. I used dowels instead of the drill bits because I could sand the dowels along with the MDF. There was a lot of arm-aching sanding to bring the mould to its final form. I used a Surform for quick removal and then coarse sandpaper on a block for accuracy. The end result was pretty accurate but not perfect. To check the profiles while sanding I glued copies of the frame profiles to 1.2 mm card, as well as the keel. I used these to check I was getting the shape right, but I also cut them so they would slot together. Once the mould fitted all the card frames and the keel I was just about done! In the last of the photos above you can see marking out for the recesses to take the keelson and the knee of the stern. To ensure the keelson recess was the right size I made a start on this piece. It's cut from a piece of 2.3 x 6 mm apple on the table saw, which I also used to cut the rebates for the frames. It curves up towards the stern so I soaked it in hot water for a while, then taped it to the mould. Once the keelson had the correct profile I used it to adjust the recess in the mould. The last thing to finish the mould were two coats of varnish and a polish. The purpose of this is to protect the markings showing the frames and the wales and to try to stop the glue sticking the frames to the mould. We'll see how we get on with this in due course. In the meantime the next task is to bend the frames round the mould. More soon! Rob
  8. I once heard a definition of a boat as anything that can be hoisted up onto a ship !!? (leads to the question of how do you first define "ship" ?). Then there's also the penchant of Navy submariners (and the rest of the Navy for the most part) calling a submarine a "boat". "Boomers" or SSBN's are pretty BIG in my opinion. Really don't think they are "boats". Just me. I think the German, the British and perhaps the French submariners do that as well. When is a ship NOT a boat? I served onboard the USS Iowa BB61 '85-'86, Length of waterline: 880 feet. About 45,000 ton displacement IIRC. Pretty doggone big! Take it from me. Only the Carriers and Amphibious Assault ships and the like were bigger. I surely don't think of the USS Iowa as a "boat". But my wife will call large ships "boats". (well, actually she uses the terms interchangeably) I try to get her to not call something like the Santísima Trinidad, Victory, or a French frigate like the Hermione) a "boat" - I think it's bordering on disrespectful. I can't stand to hear it! She says "Well, tell me the difference". I just gave a blank look because I had no answer. On the other hand, would one call a metropolitan city cruise ship of 250' accommodating 1300 passengers a "boat"? Or for that matter, a large ferry? I wouldn't. (well, a ferry maybe - but OTOH I've been on some fairly large ferrys ). There again that's just me.
  9. Hello friends, under the Chrismas tree I found her! Possible to built her with clinkerd panking! Later more about these traditional Pommeranian and Prussian shallow water fishing barges. Here the very first pictures from the freshly opened box:
  10. Dear friends... after the complete proof that girls are evel (look here -> I reboot the trial to finish a now boat. It will be again a Kammerlander model kit PoF wit the GK-Kit No. 2006. It can be built in scales from 1:35 up to 1:50 and I decided to built her in 1/48 to make the "useable" together with/on later builded ships. Measurements are L. 93 mm - W.: 3,2 cm - H.: 18 mm. So... I try to look on the bright side of life! Pictures following during the next hours, days or weeks...
  11. Hello, I can decide in what scale I want to build my model. starting with 1/87 (HO railway scale to 1/40 (larger than O gauge) so Itry to built it in S-gauge 1/64 hopefully it will work. The model comes typicaly on a sheet of cardboard with a little display, some drawings and a manual. The mould is a single block made from gypsum. In there are holes to stick in the single formers. Do I use the termici technici in the right way for model building? I just ask because I adopted them from the Chapelles book >>Boatbulding<< and a copy of >>American Small Sailing Craft<< . Any kind of critic I very much wellcome - to avoid a 2nd desaster in S-Gauge. Pictures will follow. Yours, Stan
  12. This is a video from the Winnipeg Model Boat Club in Winnipeg on a very Misty Sunday Morning it is worth a look as it is from a Water level POV