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  1. After reading several blogs on this beautiful ship I couldn't resist removing her from the box and taking a look at whats on offer. After the issues I had building the Endeavour ( I am still working on the rigging) the first thing I looked at was the plywood keel and to my pleasant surprise there was only a slight twist at the bow. Instead of using the brackets supplied by the kit for making the initial building board (these were not completely square) I built myself one out of MDF. Once the keel was placed into this and dry fitted the decks everything looks to have squared up nicely including the bow section. I would already like to thank a number of members including Dunock,DavidEN and BeefWellington for there considerable help in pointing out a number of issues with the initial build including the cutwater, the angle of the bowsprit, removal of the section of the false keel to allow some of the lower deck to be planked. The position of the mizzen mast and again it was necessary to remove another section of the keel. It was also mentioned that the first gun port from aft will fall foul of number 3 bulkhead These are all issues I will need to address before gluing takes place but intend to hold fire whilst rigging the Endeavour and given time hopefully will be able to figure out the best coarse of action moving. Here is some photos of major patys dry fitted. Notice already I have broken off a number of the upper deck supports. Not a great start. Another reason I chose to build this model is due to being the proud owner of The AOTS series and therefore will adhere to this as close as possible and perhaps consult bothe James lees and Lavery for anything which needs further clarity.One thing which I have notice with the this Caldercraft kit is the sizes of the masts, which are the same as the Endeavor. Although it is once again my intention of building the masts from sqaure boxwood stock, I notice that the according to AOTSD the main,fore, mizzen and bowsprit should be 11.1mm,9.7mm,7.3mm and 11.1mm consecutively . So I currently only have boxwood up 10mm thick. So I will need to order some 12mm thick for this job. I am still not sure whether or not I need to make a rabbet or not and to also replace the stem with boxwood. At present I am unsure of the drawing if I need to add a walnut keel and stern post too, or I actually need to cut into No 3 bulkehead to allow the line up of No 1 gunport or can I just move the gunport at a later date. Any advice in this area would be appreciated.
  2. Hello everyone! Well....after 40 years of work, I retired 2 years ago and have been trying to find things to do. As a teenager, I certainly worked on plastic models, with all their glue stings and poorly fitting parts and horrific paint jobs. I remember getting a small Cutty Sark wooden model, with poor instructions and parts that were only printed to wood sheets. Everything had to be cut out and even the hull was a solid block of wood that had to be shaped and sanded....never came close to finishing. Last year I took on a plastic model, Trumpeter's Titanic. It was a massive undertaking and took just about a year to finish. I had to learn how to handle photo etch, a paint gun, the use of CA glue and manipulating teeny, tiny parts. I took most of last summer off in the build as I own a sailboat in upstate NY, USA and that took priority, but I finished her last November or so. Is she a show room piece? Lol, no, but I am very proud of how she looks. I have fairly good wood working skills and can problem solve a lot of things with wood. I love sailing and have always wanted to buy one of those pre-made wooden ships for my office. The ones that cost about $500-$700 USD. Instead, I decided, why not try to build one!!!! I know this kit is VERY hard and having never even tried to build a wooden model or the subsequent issues and tasks concerning rigging, I just wanted to take a stab at it. So I found a kit in stock in the UK through Arrow Models. I ordered her and within about 2 or 3 weeks it arrived in the USA. Arrow did a great job and while I was a bit nervous working with an overseas company where I could find little feedback, they were tops! Great communication and great customer service. There are a few Caldercraft 1:72 build logs on MSW (I see more now as I've learned the search process here) and a few YouTube video logs that I am using. Perhaps (upon my initial search) not as many as some of the other models and kits. I thought I would add a log that is from a person with absolutely NO experience with this type of kit and certainly a kit that requires a high degree of skill or expertise or as is my hope....just the patience and perseverance to gut it through! I've posted a few Titanic pics in this post, I promise going forward it will be all Victory all the time. I just want to see how the posting process works and I will start adding right away. As of Feb 21, 2024 I am on the first planking task, about 5 planks up. So.....I'll see you at the finish line and thank you! Chris Index to My Build Laying out the Keel Mounting the Keel and adding Bulkheads Installation of Middle Deck Dummy Barrel Strips Gun port Patterns First Planking layer Sanding and finishing First Planking Quarter Galleries Deck Planking of Middle Deck Staining/Finishing Deck Planking Second Planking layer Three books every modeler needs
  3. Bonjour, The Granado is my second wooden ship build these year. This follows the ship Endurance which you can follow the link to in the MSW gallery. Before to start I learned many things with the forum. Thank You Timmo, Joe, Kevin, Brian, Vane... I was a little bit disappointed when I opened the box because 3 sheets missing. Thanks to Glenn (Cornwall) the problem was rapidly solve. Like everybody the fitted of the gunport pattern is not easy. At the end Ithe gunport cutouts of each pattern (port and starboard) were not fully aligned (1-2mm) !
  4. Hello I've been lurking on this website for a couple of years and building ship models to various levels of completion but thought it was actually time to build something to completion and post it on this website. The frame and bulkheads went together nicely and I am putting on my first layer of planking. I did some rabbet work and a bearding line down by the keel, stem, and post rather than following the kit instructions to the letter.
  5. Firstly I would like help with the title for this log as I have bought the model with the hull. at first glance looking almost finnished. How wrong I was. I have taken time out from my Golden Hind build so as to clear my head and look at starting again with a fresh mind and set of eyes. Then, at the Southern model show I saw this.
  6. Hi everyone! Last week I celebrated my birthday (53rd). From my wife I received HMS Agamemnon by Caldercraft. What a wife I have! To push me a little bit further I have decided to start a build log on my project in order to push myself and encourage others. I know there are so many skilled builders out there. I am perhaps not one of them but maybe I can help others avoiding the mistakes I eventually will do. I am a slow builder. I can be expected to put in 4-5 h a week into the project. The building instructions warns you to expect 1000-1200 h of building joy. With my tempo I will struggle for at least the next five years so be patient and enjoy my quest for the holy ship. So far I have dry fitted all the bulkheads on the false keel as well as lower gun deck and bevelled edges. The garage where I do the building is white with dust which slowly spreads in the house. I have to vacuum clean the garage before the wife retakes the birthday present… Whilst dry fitting I discovered that the upper side of the false keel is slightly banana shaped (not parallel to the bottom of the keel). It has its lowest height in the middle (around main mast) and the height by bulkhead 3 is different from that by bulkhead 14. I first thought this very strange. The height difference from the highest to the lowest point is slightly less than 10 mm. That is 64 cm in reality. Imagine dropping a cannon ball on a sloping floor like that. Sailors will lose their legs! Checking drawing 1 I realized the lower gun deck is bent into the banana shape of the upper side of the false keel. I cannot remember anyone commenting this on Caldercraft’s Aggy. I will now follow the drawings in hope that lower gun ports will be correctly located. Anyone who wants to comment on this? I suppose Caldercraft’s lower gun deck is not an exact depiction of the reality. Kind regards Henrik
  7. Hi Folks, Yet another Victory model under way. My kit was an anniversary present (25 years!) from ‘the Boss’. I first became aware of this model through the pre-issue information in a popular monthly magazine but had to dismiss the idea due to its cost. When it was suggested as a possible gift I didn’t need asking twice. The early stages of this build were originally shown on another website that unfortunately had to close down. I think it only fair to point this out as the rate of progress this build log will initially show will not be truly representative. Progress has been sporadic in the least. To be honest it’s taken me the best part of six years to get to where I am now (planking the upper gun deck) – life, work, other projects etc. all conspire to hold up progress. Initial construction was fairly trouble free, with the exception of an asymmetrical bulkhead 15. Dry assembly showed where the problem was so a new one was fashioned from some scrap ply I had lying around the workshop. The next challenge was drilling the holes in the keel for mounting the model later. I decided to insert 1/8th diameter brass tubes, with ply re-enforcement where needed, and to use steel pins to locate it onto a display base (one day!) To do this accurately it made a drilling jig based on a traditional design I use at work. Chamfering the bulkheads was one task I was not looking forward to, and it was at this point I discovered the value of websites such as this. Black felt pen lines on the back edge of the bulkheads that needed shaping ensured that I did not go beyond the profile. Concerned about how the lower ply gunport patterns would bend around the bow I cut a block of timber to fabricate a press forming tool. A card template was cut to match the shape of the bow and this was then transferred to the top of the block and band-sawed. The double cut design allowed both sides to be shaped at once. The ply was soaked for an hour, sandwiched between the blocks and left clamped for a day. The photo shows the result of a test run using waste from the gunport ply sheets. The strips were still slightly damp and pliable when removed from the former 24 hours later. With hind sight this was definitely ‘over kill’ and I probably wouldn’t resort to this method again, but it did the job! Details of my experiences with the first planking will follow…….. Cheers for now, Charter33.
  8. Hello everyone. Yes, I am starting my second project. First one is in rigging stage and i love working with wood, so.... I bought this kit a while ago and i couldn't wait to unpack it and start modeling. My first ship of the line. I wanted to build this one 5 years ago but i knew i didn't have enough knowledge or practice so i had to start with something smaller like endeavour. The wait is over, lets get to the work.
  9. Hello to everybody. Finally started the long voyage. I ordered HMS Victory Caldercraft from CMB and received it just a few days later by UPS, very well packed. I was a bit busy and could not start on it right away. Apart from that I was still undecided whether to install lights on it or not. In the meantime I prepared a rotating board to build it on and did some research on available led’s. I was also browsing HMS Victory Caldercraft builds on MSW. Very nice builds going on, congratulations to Gil Middleton, Seventynet, Rob G, Heinz746, Robert22564 and Dominic. I enjoyed going through their builds and tried to absorb some ideas. So my first decision to make was ‘lights or no lights’. If I opted for the lights I knew it was going to delay the start of my build as I had to do some planning beforehand. After some research on lights available and on builds with lights, I decided to go for it. I think the end result will be worth the extra effort. I sourced small 3mm yellow flickering led’s, candle effect and ordered some of them together with the resistors to see their effect. I dry fitted the keel and bulkheads and literally spent hours looking at it trying to plan how to put the lights in the lower and middle deck gunports. I don’t want the boat to look like the Titanic lit up for its maiden voyage. I decided to put a led in each gunport. I experimented a bit and tried to put the lights in a position where they give a very subdued light, as of course there is nothing to see in the lower gunports, except the dummy rails for the cannons. I wanted to create the effect of a very dim light where the gunports are still a bit dark but you can still see a very dim light with a candle effect. Finger crossed the final result would be what I am hoping for. I also planned from where to pass the wiring for them and for the upper decks. Another thing which was bothering me was the power supply for the lights. I do not want to use batteries as in the future I intend to put it in a glass case and it would be very inconvenient to have to remove the glass case each time you want to switch it on or off. On the other hand I do not want any cables showing coming out of the model. I decided to take out the cables from under the keel and through one of the mountings and base board of a future glass case. I drilled three holes under the keel, two to take the mounting rods and the middle one to pass the wires through. Now that I have visualised more or less how to install the lights for the lower and middle deck gunports I prepared the holes for the wiring in the bulkhead as it is much easier to drill them at this stage, painted the inside of the bulkheads black, and started gluing the bulkheads in place, taking care to have them all at right angles with the keel. Here goes a few images of my working table I prepared and the start of my build. It is going to be a slow start because of the lights. HMS Victory Kit arrived by UPS very well packed. Prepared a rotating working table for the model. Cut a tick MDF board, fitted a tv turntable to it and fixed to the table. The table is on wheels as well. Glued the walnut Stem and the front keelson to the main keel. Prepared and numbered the bulkheads. One of them was not pre-cut properly and repaired. Drilled the holes in the keel for the mounting studs and the hole through which the power will be supplied to the model. Fitted a nut inside the keel to take the mounting studs, and also reinforced the sides of the holes. Dry fitted the structure, sanding and making sure the joints fit without needing to use force. This is the method I used to bend the dummy barrel strips. I steamed the strip in a pot then put it on a flat surface and while rolling a jam jar over it, pull up at one end, repeating this process until the desired bend is achieved. Immagine there are better ways to do it, but for the moment worked fine. Started work on the lights. I cut small squares from a circuit board on which I mounted a led, resistor and a pair of wires. I drilled a whole in each gun port on the dummy barrel strips through which the led’s protruded from the back. This way I did not have to do all the soldering on the model, all I had to do in place was to loop the pair of cable to the next one. Each time I soldered one in place I checked all is lighting up so I don’t find any surprises later on. On the led’s if you switch polarity, it will not light up. Painted black and started gluing the bulkheads to the main keel making sure they are perfectly square. The middle gun deck is only dry fitted for the moment. I have to do the wiring for the lower gun deck first. Installing the lights. The red and black wires are to supply the upper deck lightings, which I still have to plan as I go along. Will appreciate any comments where I can improve, change or am doing any tasks the wrong way. Robert
  10. Well like many others I will start my log again, what I shall do is post pictures from earlier in the build and try to show its development. Wish me luck. Welcome back every one and good luck with all your builds,. DAVID
  11. Hello Everyone. I'd like to present my current build . It is HMS Agamemnon from Caldercraft . It is my second Caldercraft kit (first was HMS Victory) and overal fifth wooden model ( USS Constitution from Constructo , San Juan Bautista a partwork kit , ORP Błyskawica and DKM Bismarck - partwork from Hachette) . There are lots of avesome builds of this kit on Model Ship World . I was inspired by Vicnelson , Hennie ,Sjors , SaskienSoCal builds . I've been working on this kit for about one year . After I had finished first and second planking I've sanded the hull and fill gaps with Tamiya putty . Then the hull was sprayed with surfacer 1000 and afer that painted with admirality paints . Now I've started coppering the hull
  12. I've been wanting to start a log here for some time on this build as it's been an on-and-off project for years (purchased in 2006, started in 2009, currently at the stage of planking outer hull). I've taken some pictures over the years which you can see below. These show progress to-date and I'll update this build-log as I make significant progress going forward. Summary: As a project I intend to use the caldercraft kit as the base but will replace and enhance much of it where I can, because I love adding details, even if they're not going to be seen. I also really enjoy working with hardwoods and have a good set of Byrnes model machines which are a joy to use (disk sander, circular saw, thickness sander and rope walk). My first completed kit was HMS Sherebourne which I also heavily modified and my high level plan is to start with smaller ships, then the large frigate, a 74 then, if there's time (!) a 100+ gun ship, all from the same period and same scale of 1:64. I plan to represent her after her 1801 refit, with full sails and replicating the same planking patterns shown in the admiralty plans and the Anatomy of the Ship book. The captains quarters will be fully fitted and lit, as well as additional details on the lower deck. Stern and rudder, made from boxwood. Rudder shows some original testing of coppering which I've since removed and plan a different technique. Lower deck planking (boxwood). After testing a few different techniques of representing the caulking between deck planks I settled on using strips of cartridge paper which I felt resulted in the most pleasant finished product. However, it's a lot of work! You have to cut long strips of the paper, stick it down one long edge of the plank with wood glue before adding the next plank. At the end you shave it back and sand. The bands you can see on the pic below were used to squeeze the planks together as they had a tendency to spread. This results in the occasional exploding plank but, well, the end results are nice! (you can see shaved planks in the lower centre of the pic) Rear lower deck and some details of roughly built cabins which are unlikely to be seen. You can see how the planking has progressed however including those tricky odd-shaped planks near the waterway. Also visible is my earlier version of trenails, and earlier version of gratings. Details of the central pillars on lower deck and you can see how nicely the caulking worked out. Gundeck started: Same method of caulking. Captains quarters floor is decorated with ebony and artificial ivory tiles. The chair is just there to help remind me of scale. One of the cannon; a slightly modified Vanguard Models 18lb carriage gun - lovely kit. I've spent some lovely days in the Master Builders hotel at Bucklers hard; on this occasion you can see my 'workbench' as I build all the gun carriages. Gundeck planking finished but no trenails yet... (smaller planks for the officers quarters - an idea I pulled from the plans of the '74 gun ship by Boudroit And now... the tedious bit! Trenails! I chose the 'syringe' method which is where you take 19 guage syringes, insert them into a pile drill, press into boxwood block and slice the top off the block. I went through quite a few syringes, and it took days to get enough made. The end result, hysterically, is very accurate trenails. So accurate however that you can't really see them. It would have been easier to see if I used pearwood instead of boxwood planks. However, I decided at this stage to go for accuracy instead of aesthetics. I needed a healthy break from the build after completing all the trenails! Instead of starting on the outer planking I decided to build some of the fun bits on the gun deck. I built these from scratch (boxwood gratings and ebony coamings built with the correct corner fitting). Finally, here's the switch built into the base which is for the lighting. This is fitted near the keel and the planking surrounds it. The lights are yellow flickering leds (I'm yet to figure out a way to upload a short movie showing the lights in action). ...more to follow.
  13. I will be using the Caldercraft/Jotika kit of the Ballahoo schooner (Fish class) to build a model of her sister schooner Whiting. Why Whiting? Because she has an interesting history that I have researched in depth and I continue to study log books and other records. We are blessed with several drawings of the Fish class and their fore-runners at the National Maritime Museum and the drawings of Haddock in particular are excellent (ZAZ6116 and ZAZ6117 are the best two). I am now trying to interpret some features on the drawings and already have several questions about aspects that confuse me. I hope that some of the experienced shipwrights here can help. Height of the deck This is a big issue where the Caldercraft kit seems to make a major simplification. The kit has a level deck from stem to stern, but the drawings show that the deck is higher over the commander's cabin and the 'entrance lobby'. The side profile is a bit fuzzy but the deck planking and the sections through the deck beams show where the deck is higher. The plan view shows where there are pairs of deck beams at the steps, one at the low level and one at the high level. Is this something that Caldercraft and other builders have missed, or am I misinterpreting the drawings? (There are a couple of photos below that show extracts from the drawings.) Windlass and catheads The drawings do not show a windlass which is plausible for the size of anchor that this vessel would have carried. I have read that a couple of blocks would be set up in place of a windlass to raise the anchor, and then more blocks for the final lift because there are no catheads either. It all seems reasonable, if hard work for the crew, but an alternative explanation is that the drawing does not show the windlass or catheads but they would be fitted anyway. The builders might be expected to know to add these items, in the same way that they know about masts and yards even though the drawings do not show them. (There is an old saying that 'absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.) Any thoughts? Holes in the deck for anchor cables There are various names for these holes (Navel pipes?) which were used to route the cables from above deck down to the cable tier. The Haddock drawings do not show any and I guess that this is correct, the alternative being to cut away the fore corners on the grating over the main hatch. I suspect that the holes in the deck are later practice but have no real evidence to support this assertion. Does anyone have information from contemporary models or paintings? More to come later... George Bandurek (Previous model is Sherbourne, completed 5 years ago)
  14. Caldercraft is supposed to be one of the best quality brands around. So I have on my table one of the best kits! My ambition is to make out of this 3 kg bundle of different kinds of wood, the bag full of fittings, the brass details and other small elements the Dutch brig Mars. The “H.M.S. Mars” kit was made after plans of the H.M.S. Orestes, a British Royal Navy brig that began its life as a Dutch privateer called Mars. In fact, as others have noted, there never was an “H.M.S. Mars”. Being a Dutchman myself, I’d like to rewrite history a little, or recreate history: what did the ship look like that was lost in the encounter with the frigate H.M.S. Artois on 3 December 1781? In the process, I hope to find out a lot more about the Mars, its sister ship Hercules, and about Dutch privateering in the fourth Anglo-Dutch war. The focus will be, of course, on the model itself: what did the Mars look like just before 3 December 1781? What were her colours, how was the rigging, with what cannons was she fitted out, etc.? Count on this becoming a ten-year plan… I’m not in a hurry, and I am quite busy with my job (an office job, not related with wood-working at all), with other hobbies (photography among them—build pictures will be better than the one included in this post) and sports (on land, I'm not a sailor), so I’ll work on this project on and off, not in a continuous fashion. As for my model building experience: after having built a number of plastic kits when I was in my teens (Airfix models of Victory, Wasa, and Cutty Sark), I picked up ship models a couple of decades later when I visited the reconstructed VOC return ship Batavia in Lelystad and found there was a (plastic again) model available. After completing that one, I turned to wooden models and first tried my skills on the Sperwer by Billing Boats. There is a picture of my Sperwer in the completed builds gallery. And now there is the kit that has to become the Mars… On opening the box, others have commented about the quality of the wooden parts, etc. I am not so skilled that I could comment on their quality — it all looks pretty solid to me! I expect to use what is available in the kit, though I’ll be willing to try making adjustments and do some building from scratch to get closer to the historical Mars. I did notice, though, that the booklet with building instructions is not very long or detailed, but I hope that the seven large sheets with drawings will make up for that. Besides, there is the literature. On my bookshelf there are, amongst others: · Julier, Keith. (2004). The New Period Ship Handbook. Poole, Dorset (UK): Special Interest Model Books. [With a chapter on building H.M.S. Mars] · Dressel, Donald. (1988). Planking Techniques for Model Ship Builders. New York etc.: TAB Books. [Planking Sperwer I found the most difficult part; it took me a lot of time to admit having made errors there, but I finished the single-planked model nevertheless.] · Petersson, Lennarth. (2000). Rigging Period Ship Models. London: Chatham Publishing. [based on a 1785 British frigate: the correct period for Mars] · Petrejus, E.W. (1974). Nederlandse zeilschepen in de negentiende eeuw. [Dutch sailing ships in the nineteenth century]. Bussum: Unieboek. [Petrejus related that Dutch rigging in the early 1800's differed from the British way of doing it.] And finally, I hope I can benefit from the experiences of all you great folks at this forum. To translate a fitting Dutch proverb literally: We’ll see where this ship runs aground…
  15. I have decided to attempt a build log. I learn so much from the build logs of other members that I felt that I should venture something in return so, after a gentle prod from Dunnock, here we go. I am fairly new to the hobby having taken it up two years ago. I had just completed the Charles W. Morgan which was very enjoyable and selected the HMS Diana for my next build as it is a very pretty ship. I did hear that the kit itself has issues but thus far it has gone together without too much trauma. I started this build in January 2021 so the first few posts will be a catch up to where I am now. The book The Frigate Diana from the Anatomy of the Ship Series by David White (AOTSD) is a very valuable resource for anyone attempting this build and is my first call for reference having more or less shelved the drawings and instructions. I also reference the drawings of the Artois class ships housed in the National Maritime Museum (NMM) along with photos of their collection of contemporary models and of course the wealth of information contained in the build logs of other members. The basic frame went together fairly easily but I did have to use the heavy file to get the pieces to fit together. I introduced some balsa blocks to fill the bow and stern section as my hull planking skills are a bit shaky and I need as much help as I can get when tackling the complicated curves in these areas. I also sawed off the section at the bow and replaced it with a new piece made out of 5mm thick lime wood as I was not happy with the exposed edge of the ply. I wish I had done the same at the stern post. I suspect that there may be something not quite right in the positioning of the rear deck that forms the lower edge of the counter. Having now completed the build in this area I found that the quarter deck galleries ended up sitting too high. There is a good possibility that this may be a result of my bungling but I have noticed this phenomenon in other builds. If I was starting again I would do a lot more checking of the profiles of the aft bulkheads against the drawings in the AOTSD and the drawings from the NMM. It is only around 4 or 5mm difference but it is quite a difference to what is shown in the NMM drawings. It should be noted that these sit a bit higher in the drawings for the Jason and the Seahorse but these are still lower than where mine ended up. I will just have to live with whatever I have as it is too late to go back and do any modifications. The lowest deck can only be glimpsed through the gun deck hatches so I used this an opportunity to test out some planking mockups. I settled on a maple plank and I tried to give it a more distressed look using various stains and pastels but feel that the end result was a bit dark. I went a touch lighter for the gun deck itself. I am aiming for a more weathered look as I do not possess the mad skills required to produce one if those immaculate looking models and I can always pass off any wonkyness as an intentional depiction of wear and tear. I wanted to add trenails but ran into a bit of bother. I have heard that bamboo skewers can be lathed down to an appropriate trenail size but that proved very time consuming and frustrating and didn't provide a very good result. I think that the skewers are best left for the Kebabs. I then tried some 0.5mm diameter styrene which was good in terms of a consistent shape and size but they were too white and I needed something closer to a 0.3mm diameter. While wandering about the supermarket I found a scrubbing brush that had bristles that were 0.35mm diameter which was an improvement on the styrene but still too white. I then went back to the supermarket and found a brush, which I assume is for cleaning bottles, that had natural bristles that were a better colour and the correct diameter if you could be bothered sifting through them. Despite the fact that they are too dark and painful to work with I ploughed ahead and completed half the gun deck before I discovered that I could get excellent trenail material if I ran the faux wood filament through the 0.3mm diameter nozzle on my 3d printer without printing anything. It is the correct size and dimension and they almost become invisible depending of the angle of viewing much like the real thing. They are a little light but it is as good as I can do. As this is my first post I will stop here and submit as I am not that confident of success.
  16. Hallo liebe Community, nachdem ich dieses Forum schon eine ganze Zeit beobachte, habe ich mich entschlossen, nun auch meine Victory vorzustellen. Ich bin noch ziemlich neu in diesem Hobby und habe mir mit der Victory von Caldercraft einen ziemlichen Brocken vorgenommen. Ich habe zwar bereits an einem kleineren Modell geübt, allerdings waren meine Gedanken immer bei dem Caldercraft-Bausatz. Im Dezember 2013 habe ich ihn mir nun gekauft, damit die liebe Seele Ruhe hat. Warum die Victory - ein Schiff, dass bereits 1000 x gebaut wurde? Und das von Menschen, die mehr davon verstehen, als ich. Ganz einfach: ich finde sie schön. Und es gibt jede Menge Fotos - teils vom Original, teils von anderen Modellbauern. Ich habe weder den Anspruch, sie in Museumsqualität zu bauen, noch dem Original in allen Details historisch einwandfrei zu entsprechen. Hierzu fehlen mir die handwerklichen Fähigkeiten, die professionellen Werkzeuge und das Wissen. Ich will sie so gut wie möglich bauen. Und wenn ich auf Fotos und/oder im Internet auf Details stoße, die ich mir handwerklich zutraue, dann werde ich versuchen, es im Rahmen meiner Möglichkeiten umzuseten. Ich freue mich auf eure Anregungen und Tipps. Und los gehts mit dem Rumpf... Moderator translation via Google Translator Hello dear community, after I been watching this forum for quite some time, I decided, now imagine my Victory. I'm still pretty new to this hobby and have made ​​up my mind with the Victory by Caldercraft quite a chunk. Although I have already practiced on a smaller model, but my thoughts were always with the Caldercraft kit. In December 2013 I have now bought it to me so dear soul rest. Why the Victory - a ship that already 1000 x built? And this from people who know more about it than I do. It's simple: I find them beautiful. And there are lots of photos - some from the original, partly from other modelers. I have neither the claim, they build in museum quality, yet the original suit historically accurate in every detail. To this end, I lack the technical skills, professional tools and knowledge. I want as much as possible build. And if I come across photographs and / or the Internet to details that I trust my craft, I will try it umzuseten within my means. I look forward to your suggestions and tips. And there you go with the hull ...
  17. The model is called HMS Mars by Caldercraft, but she was never in British service under the name Mars. Mars was the original name given to this Dutch privateer vessel. When captured by the Royal Navy and taken into service, she was renamed HMS Orestes. But because Caldercraft advertises the model as HMS Mars, I included that in my log title. This build log was started somewhat later in the build. My last model was Le Superbe from Mantua. I chose this Caldercraft model Mars for it's 1:64 scale (more detail) and expected short build time (to get some more experience in short time). So far I've been very positive about the quality of the materials used in this kit. I've also found out that the order of building parts of the kit is important, and left to my own judgement, I deviate soon from the instructed order of building. I usually find that order presented by the kit manufacturer isn't practical, considering that first build parts can be in the way of building other parts. Especially when painting parts. So this log is not necessary in the right order. And the first part will be more pictures, because I've worked ahead.
  18. I started my first ship, HM Cutter Hunter about 25 years ago and left it on a shelf. A couple of years ago, when I finally retired, I decide to finish it. I really enjoyed doing that so I looked around for something else and settled on HMS Fly but first as a refresher, I built the Brig Scotland by Corel. When I began the build, I discovered that unlike when I started Hunter, there was now lots of help and ideas on forums like this one and I must pay tribute to all the Swan builders on this forum who gave me the inspiration to add a few more features my build of Fly. I will post some photos when I have finished some final tweaks to her. I looked at various options as a follow on from Fly but finally settled on HMS Diana. This will be my first build log, so please bear with if I make any silly errors. The ply keel and bulkheads, though not quite as easy to work as the mdf in the Amati kit, I haven't found it too difficult to work. The keel and bulkhead slots needed quite bit of cleaning up to get them to fit together, as did the false deck but I think all is looking good now. I am using AOTS Diana as a reference plus all the good information from previous builders on this site to help me. I started by drawing the waterlines on the keel and bulkheads to help with chamfer angles and planking. I marked out on the keel where it will be visible through the hatch openings on the gun deck and although they may not be clearly visible, I'm thinking of cutting these away because I don’t think that it will compromise the structure. I have also marked up the angle of the bowsprit. As noted by Beef Wellington if placed as per the kit, it will interfere with the figurehead. Strangely it seems that the angle in the top drawing of sheet 1 is correct while the drawing below has it at a shallower angle. In the end I may replace the stem with a piece of boxwood so that the edges of the ply don’t show. I have marked out and cut the rabbet and am have started to shape the bulkheads at fore and aft but have left #17 because I’m not sure if it needs any shaping.
  19. This is my first build. I bought the model second hand with the keel and bulkheads all glued in place. The had the false keel stem and stern also glued in place. I was lucky as I also purchased HMS Supply, in the same state as Convulsion, together with HM Bomb Vessel Grando, HMS Bounty and Albertros together with lots of tools and equipment. I started the build in February and did not take any photos until I had finished the second planking.
  20. G’day. I’m a new member, so this will be my first build log. I’ve been trying to decide whether to commit to a log, as there are already finished logs of the same kit here, but I’ll do this for a couple of reasons: 1: To possibly aid newcomers overcome self-doubt in starting a kit. 2: To force myself to pay more attention to my own processes, because I find myself looking at details of kits I’ve completed and wonder “How the hell did I do that bit?” 3: To benefit from other member’s advice and thereby improve my own skills. I’ll try to detail the planking process because I think it’s the bit that worries new builders. And I won’t try to hide my shoddy workmanship. Feel free to pull up a pew. But grab a cushion, this may take a while.
  21. Hello, I am a new member and started to build the HMS Victory. Visited this site very often in the last month for building info and found a lot of great building logs. I had problems finding the right location for the top gunport pattern (270).
  22. Somewhile back ‘Shipyard Sid’, aka Dave, found himself in the position of having to look for someone to take over the build of his HMS Diana for reasons he has already stated on this site elsewhere. Looking back at the relevant posts I had obviously missed these at the time, however, living only a mile or so away Dave recently asked me if I would like to take on the model. Diana has been on my wish list but wasn’t in my immediate contemplation. I have my Victory research which I just completed and have undertaken to publish on this site and have also very recently commenced the associated build of the Victory based on Caldercraft’s 1:72 scale kit, alongside the recently released Artesania Latina Cross Section of the same scale as a complementary pair (build log imminent). I also have a backlog of completing my scratch 1:64 HMS Trincomalee and Chuck’s Winnie also begging for a start as well, so no shortage of projects. So, what’s one more to add to the collection😊. I must admit that this hobby is getting like the Admiral’s DIY list which out-competes model building for my time, it seems only to get longer the more I do! But who wants to be bored. I think I will try to complete this simultaneously with the Victory but may take a few weeks to get up and running – that DIY list is pressing apparently, seems there is some artificial need to have completed certain milestones by Xmas, I have never understood that link, but it may be why DIY stores stock Xmas decorations. Happy for someone to explain the causal link between the two, but I undertake to wilfully remain sceptical of the whatever wafer-thin explanation someone can dream up! Back to Diana, obviously I have said yes. It is a shame Dave feels he can’t complete the Diana to the standard he desires, when I picked up the model, I also got to see his Caldercraft Victory he completed some years back and it is a wonderful example to behold, which he should be rightly proud off. I’ve enclosed below some photos of where Dave had got to with the Diana. As he pointed out to me, there is the need to do some remedial work, primarily to the copper plating, and on a cursory examination some of the gunports also need some attention. Some of the copper plates have come off, and some others are in the process of exfoliating themselves, bearing in mind Dave hasn’t touched tis for at least 2 years. In terms of the main deck gunports some of these need realigning. I think I will start with the copper plating, remove any damaged and loose plates and those that require some realignment. Dave fastened these to the ship with Evo Stick, so hopefully a combination of acetone and heat (not at the same time!) should loosen these. I’ll just see where the process takes me. For the planking I plan on removing all the inner planking and then establishing the high and low points of the all the gunports relative to the deck for the outer planking so as to determine how many strakes are involved in the realignment process. Hopefully I can just remove the planks within those limits, re-establish the gunport openings and make good the planking. Gary
  23. Hi fellow builders, After 2 years of trying to build the HMS Victory, using the Caldercraft kit I think it's time to show some of my efforts on this forum. I live in Utrecht, The Netherlands, and I regard this as a 10-year project. Building is the fun part, time is of no essence as the fun is much less when the model is finished (speaking for myself). I chose the HMS Victory for several reasons: - The Caldergraft kit is essentially historically correct, although some research is still necessary. - The kit is technically very good, most parts fit without much adjustment - The "original" 1805 Travalgar version of the ship can still be visited in Portmouth and plenty of photo's circulate on the internet, therefore building a historically "correct" model is easier than of many other ships. - Many books can be found on the subject like Longridge, McKay and others. over time I collected a (very) small library on the subject. - There are some build logs of the Victory on the internet of excellent builders, notably Gil Middleton. In some instances my choices differ from theirs, but I will explain my choices as much as possible. In the weeks to follow I wil show the progress so far, which is as far as the 30 cannons on the Upper Gun Deck. Some basic facts about the HMS Victory: The HMS Victory was (and is) the flagship of the English Navy which defeated the combined French-Spanish fleet during the Battle of Trafalgar. Admiral Lord Nelson was mortally wounded during battle by a French sniper, but England won the battle. The HMS Victory is the 5th ship with this name and the largest by far. The ship was ordered in 1758. It is a First Rate Ship with more than 100 cannons. The design of the ship was completely devoted to firepower In 1805 (Trafalgar) ther were: - on the Lower Gun Deck: 30 cannons for 32-pound balls - on the Middle Gun Deck: 28 cannons for 24-pound balls - on the Upper Gun Deck: 30 cannons for 12-pound balls - on the Quarterdeck: 12 cannons for 12-pound balls - on the Forecastle: 2 cannons voor 12-pound balls and 2 carronades for 68-ponds balls(!!) The total length of the ship is about 70 meter, water displacement more than 2000 tons and almost 5500 square meter of sail can be carried. Some other numbers: 40km rope in the rigging, 1400 blocks, 300 tons of "potable" water, 50 tons of coals, 20 tons of wood, 50 tons of beer, etc. Index First and second planking Wales Gunports Coppering Upper gun deck, cannons and fittings Quarter Deck Forecastle Bow Poop Deck Stern Fascia Quarter Galleries Hull details First an impression of the progress so far. I will try not to bore you with every individual bulkhead and plank. Details will be provided on request (of course).
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