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Found 19 results

  1. It's time to start the log Sometimes I need some rough stuff to do, with all my 3 other builds I'm in a stage of more fiddeling detailed things ... so I decided to start a fourth build ... I need sawdust ... haha ... girlfriend is not amused Intro: "On January 23, 1777, Congress "Resolved, That two frigates, one of 36, and the other of 28 guns, be immediately undertaken in the state of Connecticut." The "Confederacy" and her little sister the "Alliance". For more historical informations I suggest reading the introduction of Chuck's (as always) great instructions. Check here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1395-downloadable-instructions-for-the-model-shipways-confederacy-kit/ I bought the kit a while ago via ebay auction because I'm a bit lazy to go full scratch. I always regret that, haha. I guess 90% will be replaced so I call this build a semi scratch (which is actually totally irrelevant, I mean how to call it ) The wood will be mostly pear, hornbeam, maybe holly and some ebony, not sure about that yet. The crappy ME casted guns are replaced by Chuck's brass guns and I were lucky about the figurehead as Chuck found one last one somewhere in his shop No words about the ME figurehead ... Daniel Dusek is my man to mill a lot of parts for me :-) Daniel is kind, helpful, fast and I really love his work (and wood). One of the good guys LIVING his job by heart (as Chuck do too)! Parts milled and/or lasered by Daniel: My dedicated Confederacy sources are: * Chucks plans & instructions * THE CONTINENTAL FRIGATE "CONFEDERACY" by Douglas H. Robinson * NMM Plans of the renamed Confederate * Chapelle "The History of the American Sailing Navy" * Harold M. Hahns "Ships of the american revolution" and his plans * Model Shipwright article by Justin Camarata ================================================================== When I got the kit the first inspection was disappointing. I knew about the bad casts but a lot of sheets seemed to be burned with a overheated laser and the plywood was warped as s**t ... and just to thick. Even I prefer to get good stuff at the first I'm happy about ME's replacement philosophy. Some weeks later I could pick the stuff up at the customs and PAY TAX again for the parts (I allready paid tax for ... yeah!)... I hate this. The boxwood sheets where ok now, the 2nd plywood was even crapier then the first one. Quality control for the win! At this time the decision grew up to redo most of the parts in pear. Still the damn sheep plywood. 2nd replacement of the plywood: To make the story short I get in direct contact with Marc Mosko the CEO of ME and after a while and some very kind conversation he sent me another replacement with a super great plywood. Yes it looks more expensive (sure it is though ...) but I really really hope ME changes his mentality about that and will use the better plywood in future! It's lightweight, stable, correct in thickness, laserchar is easier to remove, kinda no splinter when sanding, it's eye pleasing ... and so on ... love it! New plywood: Comparison of 2nd and 3rd replacement: Anyway, while waiting for the 3rd replacement (and honestly - sorry Marc - not 100% confidental if I will get one ... hehe ...) I tried to do the best with what I had. Now I have a testbuild too My testbuild While working on my testbuild I discovered a major problem with the stem. As you can see on the plan the stem is shown in single parts (which the lasered parts are made from) and as a whole. But, these parts are NOT equal: Both stems overlayed (green is the stem as a whole and the correct one), you can see the problem: This might work out with basswood as you can bend it a bit to fit to the bulkhead former but no way with pear, the whole assemble ist too "high": A way to kinda fix it is to shorten parts S2 & S3: Fixed steam V1: cheers, Dirk
  2. Hi guys ! This is Douglas from Hong Kong ! After building plastic models for years, I packed enough courage to start a brand new thing in my modelling life. This is really a new thing to me. I learnt a lot so far, and thank you Kerry at Vancouver for recommending the kit and teaching me. I will post progress photos here. I guess it would take me years to finish this model. Please do give me comments, so I could learn and improve.
  3. Hi Gang, After a hiatus due to my wife and I having twins, she's dusted off and I'm hoping to recommence this build. I've attached some not so great photos from my iphone - the idea here is just to get a log started and motivate me to get back in the shipyard - for at least a few hours per week. This build was started back in November of 2009 using Chucks plans that later were used in the Model Expo kit. The woods used were swiss pear from Hobby Mill for almost exclusively with the exception of boxwood for the decks and a little bit of ebony for the false keel and checkerboard flooring in the great cabin. Im a big fan of Fiebings dyed swiss pear and used this method for all black areas with the exceptions I just mentioned. I used three finishes, pure tung oil for the hull, Watcos Danish Oil for the deck fittings and beams, and diluted sanding sealer for the deck. My goal is to at least get the 6 lb guns rigged and installed along with the ships wheel hopefully by the end of the month so i can begin the headrails this summer if the twins cooperate.... Thats it for now - by the way the photo posts looks a bit different than the old Modelship World - any tips on the best size to upload so they look more standard/fill the screen ? Chris
  4. This build log will detail the construction of the Model Shipways kit USF Confederacy (scale 1:64) designed by Chuck Passaro. The brief history of this 36 gun American Continental Navy Frigate is presented in some detail in the full-color, 170 page instruction manual and is available at Model Expo online. The model will be constructed in the 'Admiralty' configuration (without full rigging) and shall have an overall length of 35". Although actual construction will not begin until about 9/1/2013, I have opened the kit and will provide here my overall impression of the contents and some photos to show 'WHAT'S IN THE BOX'. The inventory of the kit has been completed and all listed items were provided. No, I did not count the 300 eyebolts. The well-drawn plans comprise 5 sheets. As model ship manufacturers have not embraced the concept of rolled plans, they come folded and required a bit of steam ironing to be rendered suitably flat for my taste. As mentioned, the color manual is up to Chuck's usual standard and shall become my bible for the immediate future: The kit contains 23 laser cut sheets varying in thicknesses from 1/32 to 1/4" : The strip wood and dowels were supplied bundled so sorting was effortless. The quality of the wood is not bad. I am considering replacing some of the basswood strips but need some time to figure that out: An extensive amount of photoetched parts are supplied: Blocks, deadeyes, cleats, stanchions and parts including anchors: Figurehead, cannon and some stern decorations --- all brittania metal. Although some previous logs have felt these fittings were substandard, my opinion is that they can actually be used successfully. However, as Chuck offers some after market upgrades through his Syren Model Ship Company, I opted for upgrades of the figurehead and cannon: I shall provide a side-by-side comparison of the kit supplied vs. custom parts when the new ones are received. It is now time to do some reading and perusing of the plans to get my head around this new lady. I am hoping to improve on the skills developed during my recently completed Syren project. As usual, I'll be keeping a log of time spent for those who might be interested. All I can promise is to try my best and produce something worthy to stand with the other fine Confederacy kits already (or soon to be) underway. Everyone is invited to join in and comments and critique are welcome. WELCOME ABOARD TO ALL!
  5. So here we go. Recently finished my Caldercraft Victory and I've picked the Confederacy as the next victim. I bought the kit a few months back in preparation. Also in preparation I went to Chuck for a full set of his great gun barrels. A big difference from the kit supplied ones. And also his figurehead (got in before discontinued I think) Also a very very big improvement on the kits offering. Nick
  6. Hi All, Welcome to the start of my build log of the USF Confederacy from Model Ship Shipways as designed by Chuck Passaro. Her full history has been summarized in Chuck’s fabulously detailed instructions which can be downloaded from the Model Shipways site. Suffice it to say here that the Confederacy was an unlucky ship, surviving some actions, hurricanes and collisions before being captured by HMS Roebuck and Orpheus in April 1781 and taken into the British Navy as HMS Confederate. However, while only 2 years old, inspections showed a great deal of rot, probably due to the use of green timber during her construction. She was then broken up, but her lines were at least preserved by the British Admirality. Below is a Revolutionary painting of the Confederacy from the Navy Art Gallery at the Washington Navy Yard. My impressions of the kit are very favorable. The kit arrived very well packaged with all items present. I’ve already mentioned the great instructions, but the plan sheets are also extremely clear. All the wooden parts are laser cut and the etched brass and cast metal parts are nicely detailed. I am perhaps fortunate as all the more fragile parts are intact, like the figurehead and ships wheels. Images of kit contents and parts are below. The Confederacy’s rigging plan has not survived, but I do plan to fully rig her following the plans by Crothers. The exception are the belaying points as Chuck has kindly warned me the Crothers belaying plan is incorrect. So, following his advice, I will be working out the belaying points using other contempory frigates as a guide. This will be a long build and all advice and help will be most appreciated. I will certainly be referencing all the other great Confederacy build logs to help me along the way so my thanks in advance here! My dream for this build is to try and bring the Navy Art Gallery painting to life! I hope you find some time to stop by and enjoy this voyage with me! Cheers, Nigel.
  7. hi....this is not a real build log, but rather a once in awhile ''where i'm at build'' along with sharing some experiences along the way and seeking some advice..............hmmmmm....maybe that's a build log..... i wasn't going to bother posting on this forum since i couldn't come close to competing with the exceptional builds here of the confederacy, since i'm a 30% impatient-30% trial- and 30% error builder....and as i've discovered.....no....i can't change, no matter hard i try...even at my age.........but.....somehow the models come out looking ok......... so this is a ''don't do this at home'' kind of post....or bare my butt log........for example......i have the ship on my lap.....lean over to sand a plank on the belt sander, and gouge a chunk out of the the planking below the wales near the bow....ha!...and you know what, to top it off??...i panick!!.....and grab the sanding block and try to sand down the gouge, and of course i end up with paper thin planks.....so.....i have to cut out and replace maybe 5 planks at different lengths so they would blend in better and not stand out like a square patch.....and that wasn't easy....if i slipped and cut into a neighbouring plank, i'd have to cut that one out too.......so there.....this is the me i have to deal with, and i thought people here, wouldn't mind getting a laugh at this, or experience an i've done that too .........oh.....i oversanded a bit on another section too, but i just reinforced the back with 5 min epoxy instead of re-planking.....see how much fun this will be?....i have to say how nice that chuck designed so many bulkheads, which reduces this kind of thing from happening....for others, that is used swiss pear, which is a wonderful wood to work with, though it does have a bit of mottling in the grain, which is why i decided to use the rub on satin urethane instead of the tung oil, which i would have really prefered, but didn't use, as it would bring out the grain more......have only applied a quick rub on with urethane, to check apperance.....will use bass on the deck...... i purchased a few cannons from syrene ship model cause the ones in the kit were ...hmmmmm........ anyways, i'll mold and cast them, and paint the number required instead of purchasing all brass.....they do seem a bit slim though, and i wonder if the nozzle hole should be widened somewhat.......and of course, i found a better ships wheel...... anyways, until next time, and we'll see what other foibles i can come up with..... oh....i do have to say that this is a super kit, and so much fun!.....and so much work has gone into the plans and manual...never seen anything like it....and in english!!!...a first for me.......now i can find out what everything is called...ha!......cheers, vic
  8. Here is the start of my first ever build log on MSW. I have been working on Confederacy ever since the model was available. Initially my time was limited. My main objective for this build is first and foremost to do this beautiful model justice. Other objectives include: improving my plan reading and execution skils, improving my planking skills and having a great time while working on the kit. I have finished only one model, Bob Hunt's HMS Halifax, a wonderful little kit. Like Confederacy, she is an Admiralty Model. I think this type of model is great for starting out on because it teaches you a lot about the the structure of a wooden ship in this case of the late 18th Century. Here are some opening shots of carcass construction Best Jaxboat
  9. I am currently finishing fairing the hull on my Confederacy. I am satisfied with the fairing but I still have some charing on some frames. How important is it to remove all the charing as is specified in the manual? I built the Syren with an acurate color scheme. I am considering doing the same on this project rather than just staining it but have had little success in finding color sceme information. Any info on the proper scheme would be appreciated. Was the Confederacy hull coppered below the waterline? If so, what is reason this model is not so covered? Thank you all for your patience and help. Now if I can only get the pictures sized correctly. Cheers, Harley
  10. Could the constitution mast/ rigging plans be used for the confederacy since they are both frigates? I cant find anything on the confederacy mast plan. Or is there a sister ship to the confederacy?
  11. Because its not on the Model Expo site yet....After many requests here it is by chapter Introduction Chapter 1 Chapter 2 Chapter 3 Chapter 4 Chapter 5 Chapter 6 Chapter 7 Chapter 8 Chapter 9 Chapter 10 Chapter 11 Chapter 12 Chapter 13 Chapter 14 Chapter 15 Chapter 16 Chapter 17 Chapter 18 Chapter 19 THE END
  12. Hi all, due to the current Problems on my Bounty build I couldn' keep my Hands off the last Christmas present. So I have started the Confederacy recently, the Pictures show the actual Status on the build. Although I'am very impressed by the Quality of the kit I will add some improvement like Chuck's figure head, boxwood planking, etc. I think I do not have to mention again Chuck's outstanding instructions and efforts on this model.... but I do!
  13. I will be posting the pictures of my completed scratch build of the Frigate Confederacy. This build was done using Chuck's plans and practicum that he developed for the Model Shipways kit. The woods used for this build are Boxwood, Holly, Swiss Pear, Ebony, Cherry, Bloodwood and some I'm sure I'm forgetting. I know all the comments and naratives are lost but if you have a question ask away and I'll try to remember! This will take a while becuase there were over 300 pictures. Here we go.
  14. Hi all. It has been a long time since I created a build log, but I thought the Confederacy would be a good project for a log. This ship is my most ambitious ship. My last three builds in order was the Unicorn, Brig Eagle and small Bluenose. I posted some pics of these ships to show my past work. Ok, as for the Confederacy. I have assembled the bulkhead former, pre-bent the rabbet, cut out the frames and the stem. I have included pics of the progress. Thats it so far. Next up, install the rabbet, tapper the bulkhead former to the rabbet, sand and put the stem together. Any comments or questions are very welcome!
  15. Well here we go again, many thanks to all the hard work done by the admins to get the site working again. I shall start uploading all of my pictures which may take a while. Here is some info on the Confederacy if you don't know anything about her. Built in 1778 in Norwich Connecticut by Joshua Huntington, designer unknown, she was built as a large Frigate almost 160ft long with 36 guns and profusely carved. She didnt have much success in her short lifetime and was captured by HMS Roebuck 44 and HMS Orpheus 32. She was taken into the Royal Navy and named HMS Confederate but when she was inspected it was found that she was in poor condition and had extensive rot due to being built with green wood, plans to convert her to a 2 decker were scrapped and she was broken up after only 2 years. ben
  16. Folks, While surfing the Web, I stumbled against a project which is dear to my heart: a fully rigged Confederacy! Apparently, a very skilled modeler from North Carolina, Dave, has built the model as an Admiralty Model and added a full rigging with all masts and yards. I have looked at all the models built by Dave and am truly impressed and in awe with the quality of his models and the number of ships that he built. I invite you to look at more of his work under http://www.davesconfederacy.blogspot.com/ A few full shots of the Confederacy in all its glory: Fantastic work. Congratulations Dave. Yves PS: By the way, if anybody can give me more information about Dave and where he lives, I'd love to meet him. His Blog does not provide any clues.
  17. I am posting this note to let folks know that I have figureheads in stock for the Confederacy. I just received a new batch of cast copies. They are resin and cast in one piece. See below. The guy who made them for me did an excellent job. I will give him a bit of a plug....www.celticwerks.net Just in case anyone needs resin casting done. In addition I also have the six pounder and twelve pounder cannon available and in stock. These two sizes will fit other kits as well. I know many who have bought them for the Amati Fly etc. In addition to that I have some small swivel guns. See the photos and attached PDF files for their exact sizes. The price for the figurehead is $13 12 pounder cannon are $3.50 Ea. 6 pounders are $3 swivels are $2.25 Please send me a PM if you are interested in purchasing any of these items. Shipping will depend on where you live. Probably $5 for within the US and more for international orders. Chuck cannon-swivelguns-winchelsea.pdf
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  19. So as I plan for my upcoming build of Chuck's Confederacy, does anyone know of her original color scheme? Was she tarred black on her hull? I saw somewhere someone saying she was white-ish below the waterline (some kind of preservative) as copper plating was't done on US Navy ships when she was built. I found this image on the net http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d3/US_Navy_090925-N-9671T-002_A_Revolutionary_War_painting_depicting_the_Continental_Navy_frigate_Confederacy_is_displayed_at_the_Navy_Art_Gallery_at_the_Washington_Navy_Yard.jpg&imgrefurl=http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:US_Navy_090925-N-9671T-002_A_Revolutionary_War_painting_depicting_the_Continental_Navy_frigate_Confederacy_is_displayed_at_the_Navy_Art_Gallery_at_the_Washington_Navy_Yard.jpg&h=958&w=1495&sz=486&tbnid=JG8zdCEgxALzOM:&tbnh=84&tbnw=131&zoom=1&usg=__4N_LLgJmmjePI_SwiiXJpcmOpK0=&docid=qt7U2EKt_7XCHM&sa=X&ei=fHk3Uv-IEIrq8wTb6YGQCQ&ved=0CDYQ9QEwAw&dur=2350 which shows A LOT of yellow ochre on her. Is any of this close to correct? Chuck has some black areas on his model, are these just artistic? Anyway, thanks for reading and any info you can provide. Hopefully Chuck will see this and respond.