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Found 32 results

  1. I've finally decided to take the plunge and start my first wooden model. I don't have much experience working with wood (although a friend and I did recently complete a wooden truss-tube telescope - his 3rd, my 1st - but that involved mostly square cuts at a much larger scale), so I thought this cross section would be a good way to get my feet wet, so to speak. With this kit I think I can learn some of the basic skills I will need without getting too caught up right away with learning to bend planks, learn how to strop and rig blocks (3mm blocks! How do you work with those?) and enjoy seeing how the rigging comes together. I've already figured out things I would have done differently, but I think for the most part they will not affect the final look. You will see in some of the pictures below that the planking seems to be at an angle, and not perpendicular to the frames - in reality the spacers are not parallel to the keel but the planking is - should have scribed a line on the frames where the spacers go. I've decided to follow one suggestion I came across in one of the really excellent build logs I've come across and plank the hold up to the point where the deck beams attach and use the planking to keep the support level. One question on bending the deck beams - the plans call for gluing 2 strips of lathe together and putting it in a jig to get the right curve - I am assuming I can just smother the wood in glue and bend and place it in the jig (with wax paper to keep it from sticking to anything else) and it would keep its shape when dry (that is what we did to create the one curved piece on the telescope). Is that correct, or do I need to wet the wood, soak it, putting it in vinegar or rubbing alcohol? Thanks for stopping by.
  2. USS Constitution - Model Shipway’s Kit No.: MS2040 “Old Ironsides” 1797 Frigate Scale: 5/32” = 1 ft. (1:76.8) This is my second POB square rigged ship; I spent about seven years building my first, Mamoli’s Rattlesnake. Like the first one, I will be following Robert Hunt’s practicum, but unlike the first, I have a multitude of excellent build logs and books to supplement it and help guide me through the inevitable pitfalls that are sure to raise their ugly heads. Hopefully, based on this and my hard-earned experience with the Rattlesnake, it won’t take another half a lifetime to build. Now for the obligatory part. Below is the kit box and contents. I won’t bore you with showing all the little packets that are stuffed in the box, that has been done very well by numerous other builders. I will state that in addition to what came with the kit, I purchased a few more items: · Robert Hunt’s practicum · Hobby Mill’s wood supplement package (based on Hunt’s practicum) * · Additional copper plate tape (as I understand it, the kit was a bit too frugal with their supply) · 2 - 2½” x 2½” x ¾” genuine pieces of USS Constitution wood ** · Medallion made from genuine USS Constitution copper plate. Not sure yet how or if it will be used. * Wood package purchased before HobbyMills closed shop. The supplement package was derived by HobbyMills where Mr. Hunt made his substitutions in the practicum. It was not identified as a package that could be purchased in the practicum. I have the original price list which describes what the wood is being substituted for and where in the practicum it is being described. If anyone wants a copy of the supplement wood list, please send me a PM. ** Constitution wood was purchased from the museum just before the ship went into drydock, December 2014. I have since tried to get a larger size for the keel or nameplate but accordioning to popeye2sea (who as I understand it volunteers on the ship), the US Navy is withholding any more wood from the public for now for reasons unknown. The museum told me, maybe in the Spring sometime. This will be my third attempt at constructing this model. The first attempt was done when I was a child building Revell’s small plastic model which I really botched. I hadn’t yet learned to read and follow instructions, but just dove into assembling the parts with expected results. My second attempt was as a young teenager and when the wounds of that failed build had waned, went a bit better. This time I got the larger plastic model. I did follow instructions and even painted the parts but had absolutely no idea how a rigged ship worked let alone how the lines were attached or what they were for. It looked decent to my young ignorant eyes at the time. Both models met their demise at my hand with firecrackers; usual method of disposing such items This time I expect a glorious finish…I hope.
  3. I need some really good advice but first the facts. This build is going to be a one off project. I have Leukemia and another blood cancer that makes my time short. I have never built any models from the time I was a teenager but I am an engineer. I was in the Air Force and Navy and was an in-flight maintenance man. Have experience in using wood working tools. The only tall ship I have visited is the USS Constitution. My bucket list included a trip to Fenway Park and to see the Constitution. My old boss went with me to see a game and the boat. I want to build a plank on frame kit of the USS Constitution. I know good advise would be to start with a simpler hull or boat all together but I am hard headed and tired of being told what I cannot do any more. Now that we have that out of the way I am looking for suggestions of what kit is going to be best. Best can mean many things such as best quality wood, instructions, detail but somewhere in that is the kit you would buy if it was going to be your last. The next thing is where to buy the kit. I live in the St. Louis area but I have no problem if I need to buy international. If I should not get it finished I will be sure to give my wife instructions on who to ship it to so it can be completed.
  4. Folks - Here is my rebuilt log of my Plastic Constitution build. I've copied the entries over from another forum and I reserve the right to alter a few things to clean up previous errors: I’ve had a Revell 1/96 USS Constitution fall into my stash at a very reasonable price ( and it seems appropriate to take it on in recognition of the upcoming anniversary of USS Constitution’s victory over HMS Guerriere on August 19. I’ve been spewing forth much hot air in defense of the Michel Felice Corne paintings and their representation of the ship as she first burst into glory against HMS Guerriere, so I feel obligated to back up my tirades with action. I’ll try to make this version align very closely to what we see in these paintings commissioned by Captain Hull immediately after his victory ('> This does mean that I’ll set aside my Heller HMS Victory build for a time - I haven’t lost a bit of enthusiasm for that project - but I’ll apply what I learn in this new effort towards making that one better down the line. Like many of us (most of us?) I’ve built this kit before... a few decades (or more) back. It seems to have been almost a rite of passage for anyone wanting to take ship modeling seriously. I’ll call that one the MK 1 version and it still exists in a dusty condition on a high shelf in the garage: I was never happy with that earlier effort. Much has happened in the intervening years to improve my chances of making a more representative kit - most notably the proliferation of great information on the internet to inform my approach. This venerable kit was originally issued back... well, back before some of us were born(!)... and I think it still holds up well. Certainly there is plenty of flash and injection moulding marks that we don't see in modern kits, but the kit still makes up into an impressive display as we can see in the various log entries across this forum. It seems to be a copy of the 1/48 George Campbell plan model in the Smithsonian collection ('> - which itself is a refinement of the famous Hull model built by the crew and presented to Captain Hull following his victory over Guerriere ('> We see plenty of similarities in the bow and stern between the models and the Revell color guide somewhat follows the original. So the question becomes - does this Revell kit align well to the configuration of the Constitution when she earned her “Old Ironsides” moniker against HMS Guerriere? Well, strictly speaking no... In fact, if built OOB it would not actually represent Constitution as she was configured in any of her wartime cruises. There is a critical difference between the historic model and her modern copy - the Hull model shows 15 gun ports on each side of her gun deck (although the forward most are a bit too far forward) and the Revell kit shows 16. The difference is explained by this journal entry from Frederick Baury - one of Constitution’s midshipmen: 21 Sep 1812 Carpenters cutting bridle ports in bows ‑‑ Lieutenant Morgan and Midshipman Taylor left on recruiting duty. After returning to Boston following the battle, Isaac Hull resigned and command was handed over to the much despised William Bainbridge. He proceeded to make a few changes including the addition of “bridle ports” up forward to help in towing, anchoring, and to potentially serve as bow chaser positions. Unlike the guidance provided by the Revell instructions, these positions would not normally have had a gun mounted. If needed during a chase, a nearby 24-pounder would be hauled into one of these spots to lob a few shots and try for a lucky hit to take out a spar and slow down the prey. To that end Bainbridge made another change as outlined by Commander Tyrone Martin in his overview of Constitution’s armament: Following his succession to command of the ship on 15 September 1812, Commodore William Bainbridge eliminated the 18-pounder, simplifying his ammunition loading and handling problem by dropping one caliber. The gun had been virtually useless, anyway, since the ship's bow structure was not well suited to the accommodation of a chase gun. Bainbridge may have been a jerk of a human being, but he was an astute naval commander and he thought it made more sense to offload the 18 pdr chase gun and make room to store more 24 pdr ammunition for his main guns. So the 16 gun ports and the spar deck bow chaser as provided in the kit could not co-exist. The easiest solution to bring things into alignment is to ditch the bow chaser and the two forward main deck guns and call it a day. You’d likely have the correct representation of Constitution’s configuration when she scored her victory over HMS Java. Since I am trying to show her during the battle with HMS Guerriere, I will preserve the bow chaser gun, but I will need to take the drastic step of filling in the forward bridle ports. If you want to represent her last war cruise under Charles Stewart, then you’ll have to revisit the carronades on the spar deck. Here again Commander Martin provides some insight: [Charles Stewart] reduced the number of carronades to twenty and added two 24-pounder "shifting gunades" recently captured from the British by an American privateer. Designed by Sir William Congreve in 1814, each was 8' 6" long, but being of thinner barrel construction weighed only about 5000 pounds on carriage. The design was an attempt to combine the range of a long gun with the lighter weight of a carronade. The pair sat on carriages like the long guns, and it was expected that, since they were lighter, they could readily be shifted from side to side as combat required. Apparently Stewart had the two forward most and two aft most carronades removed and replaced with one each of the newfangled gunnades. I have no idea how these actually looked when mounted on a carriage, but it might be possible to find slightly over scale carronade barrels and mount them to the two gun carriages no longer needed on the main gun deck. Oh, and you’d also need to paint her with a yellow band - that is well documented. Regarding the carronades... As represented in the kit with the wooden quoins, these would seem to be rather quaint. The carriages on the foredeck with their small trucks would also seem to be inappropriate for 1812. Certainly by the time of Trafalgar it would be more typical for a carronade to be mounted with a pin to the bulwark with trajectory controlled by an elevation screw. I think Karl Heinz Marquardt addresses these same concerns in his AOTS book since the restored ship has these outmoded versions still represented. I’ll optimistically try to modify all of the carronades to include the elevation screws and eliminate the funky rolling carriages on the foredeck. Many folks get caught up in the various permutations of the stern gallery windows. Were there six or five?... or three or eight? The Hull model shows six, but the Corne paintings have five... I’m frankly not concerned either way. I assume there were many chances for the configuration to have changed across the years as different commanders supervised different refits within different time and budget limitations. Perhaps Hull and his crew replaced the six windows with only five after destroying the original gallery windows during their escape from Broke’s squadron (they axed out the windows and some of the transom to position guns to fire at their pursuers). Maybe there were always six and Corne got this wrong. Nobody knows the truth and we likely never will... I’m fine with working with the six depicted on the kit. The rudder on this kit is a bit perplexing... It is moulded with wood grain without any copper plating represented. Hmmm... That doesn’t seem correct. I’ll ponder the idea of putting some of my extra styrene strips to work and setting that right. Of course the kit provided plastic eyelets and rings are worthless - easily broken and a bit over scale. Those will be replaced with wire or PE versions. Somehow I managed to not break any of the plastic hammock cranes on my first effort all those years ago, but I’ll replace those with ones fashioned from brass micro-tubing and Jotika eyelets. Some of the thinner spars are also vulnerable to bending/breakage. I’ll try to shape some brass rod for replacements. I’ll need to carefully consider the moulded blocks - some may be usable or otherwise converted to usefulness. I suspect I’ll replace most with online purchases. The gun port lids will be omitted altogether - the Hull model and the credible paintings of the period (including the Corne series) don’t show them mounted (although the Hull model has a lid for the forward most ports). The pre-formed ratlines, moulded deadeyes, and vacuum formed sails will not be utilized. ‘Nuff said. As for the accuracy of the rig represented in the kit... I am having trouble finding a stable representation of her complete masting and rigging layout. The 1817 Charles Ware diagram may be about the best, but as Marquardt points out it differs in some respects to other seemingly authoritative sources. It is also interesting to note that the Corne paintings are showing crows feet rigged... that is unique. At least it appears that the trysail mast (immediately abaft the mizzen) is authentic - records indicate that Isaac Hull had this added to allow better movement for the boom and gaff. The Hull model clearly shows it fitted as well. I’ll worry more about the rigging when I’m much closer to that phase, but in the meantime I’ll probably fork over the $60 bucks for the Bluejacket manual set and perhaps rely on that for guidance... The biggest bugaboo in this kit is the multi-part decking. Ugh... The forums are full of attempts to mitigate the unsightly seams with various levels of success. Some folks just don’t worry about them at all and instead try to make the rest of the deck interesting enough to be distracting. I’ve even seen one modeler glue “battens” over them and pass them off as a “feature”. My first attempt was relatively successful in aligning the deck sections and eliminating any meaningful gap, but I was hesitant to fill and sand because I was trying to preserve the moulded wood grain detail. I was attempting to follow the “Les Wilkins” method of using a razor or low-grit sandpaper to remove the top layer of tan paint to reveal the base coat of black and highlight the grain (guidance that is also provided in the Revell instructions). I’ve since decided that the grain is a bit overdone at this scale and it’d be best to smooth everything down and use shades of paint and perhaps some artist pencils to impart the wood tones. Eliminating the seams is more important than preserving the grain. There are many fine efforts out there... Here’s one that inspires - well known to those of us who prowl the web for impressive builds:'> Other useful online resources:'>'>'>'>'>'> Here are some of the modifications I hope to incorporate along the way: Customized elements: Fill in the forward Bridle ports. Thicken the gunport sills. Add a scratch built galley stove. Show the anchor cable/messenger cable rigged on the gun deck. Display Carronades with elevation screws. Replace rolling carronade carriages with lug mounted versions. Copper plating on the rudder. Hammock Cranes fashioned from brass micro-tubing. Brass Rod for delicate spars. New capstan on spar deck (and gun deck). Paint scheme (guidance from Corne paintings and Hull model): Yellow ochre band ending up forward in a scalloped half-circle. White trim on bow and stern details. Red gallery windows. Red gunport sills/linings, Green interior bulwarks on spar deck. White bulwarks on the gun deck. Green deck coamings/furniture on spar deck. Yellow ochre lower masts with “natural” above. Tops in Black. Black bowsprit with “natural” jib boom. Let the fun begin.
  5. January 2014 – After 21 years of sitting in a large box of packing peanuts I decided to resurrect the Mamoli Constitution. Luckily I had packed everything carefully. The ship’s hull and some of the tools were in the box, the remaining wood and parts were taped up in the original kit box. The scale of the model is 1:93. I pulled the plans and started to review where I left the build off. I had completed the outer hull (which is double planked on bulkheads), including the green tiles representing each of the copper plates. The main deck was not planked and the forward bulkhead while started only had one plank on one side. I completed the forward bulkhead and proceeded to plank the deck. According to the instructions, each piece of Tanganyika needed to be cut to 80mm, then using a No.2 pencil you color the edges on both sides and the butt ends. I used white wood glue to glue the pieces down. I marked with pencil each of the deck penetrations, which were already done in the plywood. Then I carefully cut the wood and sanded/filed the edges back to the original hole size. This is an area where I see a fairly significant difference in the Mamoli plans and the Model Shipyards. The MS builds the hull in the bow into what becomes the forward bulkhead. The Mamoli construction includes the bow in the planking and adds the forward bulkhead once the hull is complete. This also means the bow is approached differently. I will get to that later. Once the deck was completed I put on the handrails. At this point, I decided a couple of points. First, my plan was to paint the model using the Constitution plaint set from MS and secondly, I wanted to modify the bow and the stern ornamentation to be more closely aligned with the looks of the MS model. This meant creating a method to add the scrollwork since the Mamoli did not include it other than two white metal plates to be affixed to the bow for the fiddlehead design. Secondly the stern did not have the two boards that ran from the lower stern over the windows and back down producing a nice double curve. These I created using 2x2mm walnut strips I bent with the heat bender. As a note, I found out that adding CA to the sides of the strip before I bent it allowed me to control the splintering which the walnut was prone to do. This might have had something to do with the wood strips being over 21 years old. Stern Galleries The kit came with two white metal pieces for the windows in the stern galleries. One was curved almost correctly, the other was straight. Unfortunately, when trying to bend the metal for the gallery, it broke along the central vertical piece between the windows. I was afraid to heat it before I bent it. I found both of the gallery pieces required much work in sanding and shaping before they could be glued into the model. Since I was painting the ship I could use sandable epoxy putty to add to smooth the pieces to the hull. I did end up having to remove more of this than planned since I thought the top of the gallery was more curved than flat. I used my Foredom Rotary tool, rilflers, sand paper, and dental tools to carve the gallery sides and put the modeling details back into it where I either ended up sanding them out, or they needed to be made to extend through the putty. I then added the 2x2 walnut strips around the stern and completed the stern with the side strips running down the gallery aft sides. These I extended 2 mm to match the 2x2s I added around the windows. The attached photo shows the Starboard Gallery. You can see the frame break on the bottom of the leftmost window. This was patched before painting.
  6. Dear Sirs and Madams, dafi proudly presents the first sets of photo etch parts for HMS Victory 1:100 (Heller Kit). During the years of research and model making in ... to Victory and beyond! ... ... it came out naturally to develop some parts for my own purpose and then to enlarge this set and offer it to help other model makers to enhance their builds too. Out came a set of 6 plates straight for the model and 2 plates with gratings and eyebolts fitting for multiple scales. Some parts like chains, gunport lid hinges or hammock cranes could be adapted for other ships 1:100 (1:96) and other parts like eyebolts for other scales. If interested, just contact me and we could find out home the parts: http://www.dafinismu.../plates_en.html to order: Simply write an e-mail to And here we go ...
  7. OK. Let's give this thing another shot. I'd been hanging around this fantastic site for about 4 weeks whilst awaiting the arrival of my ModelShipways USS Constitution. During this time, I discovered MSW (now MSW2.0). I was blown-away by the beauty of the ships and quality of workmanship produced by the members on this site. Yes, yes - go ahead and take a collective bow. You all deserve it !! Whilst I am not a complete "newb" to modelling, having done two kits to date, many of the techniques employed by you guys and gals were largely unknown to me. Up til a month ago, I had no idea that "bearding lines", "garboard strakes" or "rabbets" even existed. My two builds so far are berthed with two of my brothers. CaptainPete commands the HMS Victory (launched June 2006), and the Apostol Felipe is under the capable watch of CaptainPaul. It has been two years since the launch of the Apostol Felipe. Through a combination of work, life-in-general and indecision, it has taken this long before I finally settled on the USS Constitution for my third brother, CaptainDen. I tend to choose my builds based upon to whom they will be going. I look forward to this journey, and actively welcome any hints, tips, advice whenever I require it. I will try to post as many pics as possible as I go. I do have a few "kit-bashes" which I plan to incorporate into my build: - All sails rigged as furled. - 1812 version with 6-window configuration at stern. Painted white outline. Side galleries also black w/ white outlines. - Deck hatches open and left askew, where leading via ladders to partial lower gun-decks. - Flags installed as per modeler12 method. - [OPTION] LED candles for lower-deck/gallery lighting. Wiring thru pedestal holes in keel. My "Connie" kit finally arrived a few days back ....
  8. I am building the Constitution cross-section by Mamoli and figured, as long as it was a cross section I would also try to expose some of the guts, in particular I wanted to leave some of the deck planking off and show the structure of the framing. Most of the plans I have seen, including those in the Anatomy of the Ship volume, show the carlings (joists) perpendicular to the deck beams/parallel to the keel. However, drawings I've seen from 1926 before the refit show them running diagonally. There are also photos in the Boston Public Library's digital photo collection that show the same thing - I'm just not sure if these are before or after refit photos. My question is which is "correct." Are the diagonal or the perpendicular carlings as she should be or is one an artifact of a non-historic refit?
  9. Hi All - I posted years ago before the site renewal last spring. It's been a few years, but I'm back at it, so I thought I would post a few "as is" images and start from here. It's modeled after the book "Anatomy of the Ship The 44-gun Frigate USS Constitution" by Heinz Marquardt. I know there is some controversy over the window counts, the style and the design as she sat in 1812, but I really liked the 5 window design, and in a few books, it referenced 5 windows on the stern, so that's what I'll do. All of the kit plans have been replaced by the images, drawings and references in the book, so i'm trying to make it true to Heinz's drawings and ideas. I like they way it's coming out.
  10. Hello everyone!! I am excited to start my USS Constitution Model Shipways Kit# MS2040 blog. I hope this blog will benefit others who are attempting to build this ship and I hope I have a blast putting it together (the ship and the blog). I have been at it for about 6 weeks and really enjoying the build so far. I find it so relaxing to work on because the thought and attention needed prevents me from thinking about all of life's other little problems. I love going into "boat" mode and looking at a clock a couple of hours later and wondering where the time went. I will try too keep this blog as simple as possible. I have already found that I spend about 50% of my building time reading these blogs and formulating my plans and the other half actually building. It is much more complicated and detailed than I would have thought. I purchased the Practicum by Lauck Street Shipyards and have found it to be very helpful so far. The directions included with the kit were not nearly detailed enough for me to have any hope in being successful. I am still struggling to keep "stem" and "stern" straight in my head for goodness sakes! Or is it "bow" and "stern"? And don't even get me started on what a rabbet is - more to come on that... So let's have fun and build ourselves a ship. The journey of the Tortoise begins. Ok, I was going to post some pictures here but have not yet figured out how to upload them from my laptop. That's why I am named the Tortoise people. This was never going to be easy. Photos to follow once I figure it out. PS: I decided to post in blue so that people scrolling through the blog could easily identify the posts that I have authored. Let me know if the blue drives anyone crazy. The Tortoise 9/8/2016
  11. USS Constitution by Overworked724 - Revell - Plastic - 1/196
  12. Can anyone help with pictures or info on how the anchor was rigged? I would like to have anchor lines on the gun deck from the capstan forward to the anchor to as though the anchor was being lowered or raised. Were the anchors rigged so both were raised/lowered at the same time? Thanks
  13. Hello again. I started this log back on November 1, 2011, and I think I've managed to salvage most of it. I have all the photos, and will re-build the log as best I can. Having been through catastrophic data losses before (professionally), I know the feeling the moderators must have and completely sympathize. Re-boots and recovery are always difficult, but the "can-do" attitude of everyone here and the overwhelming friendly atmosphere obviously hasn't been lost. For that, I am thankful. Here's the last photo I took (some progress made since then, but not photographed). I will start the log from the beginning when I have more time. Andy.
  14. Okay I received my Model Shipways kit this morning and this is some huge kit. I have big hands but I think I'll be able to handle working with this one. I've been doing a lot of reading and after getting some definitions straightened out, I think I'm ready to begin. I am really impressed with the quality of this kit. (and I can understand the instructions too). . I'm starting off with some basic photos. . .namely the package as I received it. You can tell I'm not a salt at this because those who have completed a lot of kits don't bother with any photos until they are into the build. . not me, I'm proud of every step. . I might even break the record for the number of photos taken of a build. I built a 10 foot work bench. . installed some good lighting and magnifiers. . then I promptly opened up all the plans in the house. . . my wife was very impressed to say the least. I spent the first 5 or 6 hours laying out the parts on the plans and marking the reference lines, bearding lines, center lines, and rabbet lines on the parts from the plans. . . I read a lot of the helps that are posted on the Model Ship World tutorial page and I must say there are some very smart and helpful people on this website.
  15. I'm trying to group all the information on all six First Ships Question when did the copper plates get installed on the Constitution and Constellation?... Also did the others have the copper plates installed as well? Dose any log books mention this for even one ship? I know I will have more questions later I hope you guys don't mind me making this thread I figured that the any and all info pertaining to The First Six should be kept either in one thread or six different threads. Depending on how much info is out there for each ship then I think it will get split up with all found info in separate threads and everybody can draw their own conclusions
  16. OK here we go... 3 January, 2015. Thus begins my build log of Revell's 1:96 scale USS Constitution. I selected an older kit release because a lot of things I've read indicate that they have much higher molding quality over the newer kits. Mine has a box date of 1974 and it has a US Bicentennial logo, so I believe that it was produced between 1974 and 1976. I plan on "kinda" building her as she appeared under Isaac Hull's command. I say "kinda" because I'm not going into every particle of minutiae involved with how she really was configured. I'm just taking care of the obvious such as eliminating the forward gunport (bridle port) and the skylight above the Captain's cabin. Other than that this will pretty much be an out-of-box build. Feel free to follow along!
  17. From what I understand the USS Constitution is the most difficult model BlueJacket has to offer. As a novice model ship builder it appears that I am in for a real challenge! This model was given to me as a gift from my father when I was 11 or 12. I think he was tired of hearing that plastic model airplanes weren't difficult enough and wanted to give me a real challenge. He succeeded. I remember opening the manual and thinking, "Where's step one?" I didn't get very far on the model as it was lost in storage after a move. I have always longed to continue working on my Connie. Over 15 years have passed and now the kit is back in my possession! Your help, advice, and patience through this forum would be greatly appreciated as I undertake this challenge. Best, Anthony Mongillo, A novice.
  18. It's taken me a while to do it, but here's my relaunched build log for a kitbash of Revell's 1/96 Constitution kit into her sister, USS President. My build is/was inspired by Evan/Force 9's USS Constitution work, and Popeye's USS United States project. My idea is to use Revell's venerable 1/96 kit as a base, and then make changes based on research into the President's construction, Chapelle's drawing of her after capture by the Royal Navy, and Antoine Roux's paintings. As the last of the 'original six' frigates to be built, launched, and fitted out, President benefitted from lessons learned with her sisters, which Josiah Humphreys, foreman Cheeseman, and Silas Talbot, the superintending captain, were able to incorporate into her construction. The Roux paintings are from early in President's career, when she was in the Mediterranean during the First Barbary War. It's this version of President, from her patrols undertaken in the 1801-1805 period, that I want to reconstruct. This iteration of President still has her figurehead of George Washington, and the bulwarked (instead of open, as on the kit) waist. What I've read thus far (Toll's 'Six Frigates', Leiner's books, Chapelle) would indicate that for these cruises, the frigates were armed to be able to bombard Algerine forts, and as such carried cannons on the spar deck, and no carronades. Another difference from the Revell kit, as shown in Chapelle's drawings, are the locations of masts, grates/gangways, and other spar deck details... the gun deck, thankfully, seems to be very similar. But, that means I either need to relocate everything on the spar deck, and then plank it, or relocate the details and then rescribe it; I'm still trying to figure out which would be best. In the meantime, planking up the gun deck bulwarks a la some of the other MSW builds underway:
  19. I am curious to know if the new Blue Jacket kit of the U.S.S. Constitution requires having to shape the hull or does it come pretty close to scale without having to do much carving?
  20. Found this website recently, quite by accident. Lovely corner of the universe. Unfortunately ( for me ) it comes at a time when I have decided to sell most of my collection of ship kits. I am keeping a precious few in the hopes I can get to them some day. Notable there is the Aurora Heller Chebec and old Pyro Natchez. My name is Chris Wheeler and I live in Denville, NJ USA. I am well known and respected on as cfwheeler58 I also have a quality reputation on Ebay as cfwheels58 ******************************************************************************* All kits are COMPLETE, UNSTARTED, NIB ( Note the Soleil Royal is the only exception ) All prices in US dollars. Negotiated discounts for multi-kits Paypal preferred. I will calculate S&H per purchase. It will be zero-profit. I am happy to post pics of individual kits here, as requested, if they generate interest. Please keep personal info in PMs. Feel free to mark interest or "I'll take it" in the thread. First notifications win out. I am interested in all feedback on this posting. BO PMs do not offend. ******************************************************************************** WOOD Model Shipways MS2040 Constitution $350 Model Shipways MS2240 Niagara $200 Corel SM24 HMS Victory Cross Section $200 I know the reputation from reading the threads, but I have the Lauck Shipyard CDs; Soph Class Constitution, Soph Class Masting & Rigging, Planking which I purchased specifically for the Connie. They are available with any wood kit above for $50. If sold separately....$100 Buy all 3 wood kits for $700. Include Lauck materials for an additional $40. PLASTIC Aurora Wanderer Whaler ( tough to part with ) $75 Revell 1:96 CSS Alabama $75 Revell 1:96 Cutty Sark $75 Heller/Aurora Reale De France $90 Heller/ Aurora Soleil Royal $40 ( send PM for more detailed info ) Most components from 2 kits 2x sails, 2x masts, spars, rigging 1x hull unbuilt
  21. I bought this excellent kit a couple years ago and I'm moving on to scratch building now. I'll sell it for $325. The kit is complete and in its original box. Buyer pays shipping. Model Expo has it listed at $399 now. PM me if interested. I can take a pic of box/contents and send if you'd like. Otherwise, just go to the Model Expo site and look under their POB kits for details on this model. Ron
  22. Hello everyone, sorry for my bad english today and got my first kit ever, I am new to modeling, could you give me some advice, especially for painting? as soon as possible'll post pictures of the kit just arrived, and will update every time the post, with the progress made in the construction thank you all in advance
  23. I am having trouble with something that, to me, should be obvious. I am building the waterways for the Constitution and I don't know if I should add a section across the stern, at the inside of the transom. The plans don't show it there, but they also do not show the whole waterway anywhere, only a small section of waterway along the side. I went back through build logs and I find some models with it and some without. Of course, I could go into Charlestown this weekend and look for myself, but I thought I'd ask first, since we have so many Connie experts on this site. Since I am asking questions, here is another one. Is the waterway split under the bow sprit or does the bow sprit clear it so it can be one piece across the bow? Again, the plans don't show this anywhere, at least that I have found. I am hoping it is split as the clearance in this area is really tight. Thanks.
  24. Well, here we go again. I am rebuilding my log from the google cache. 02 JANUARY 2013 Hi, welcome to my build log. I haven't built a model in over 30 years, so I have no idea how this is going to turn out...but I am going to give it a good try. I plan on building the model exactly (or nearly so) to the Revell instructions. I will try to show details of my successes and failures. I welcome your comments... I have been working for a week or so, but just now started the log... so the first page or so I dumped a lot of photos. A little about me: I'm a former U.S. Navy submariner (sturgeon class) and mechanical engineer. I have been working in commerical nuclear power for my entire professional life. I have been working and living in Bulgaria for five years now...but my home is in Arizona!! Finally, Kudo's to build logs from AndyMech, lambsbk, LMDave and "popeye the sailor" just to name a few.