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  1. I said when I got the kit that I would start the kit after I got close to the rigging stage on my Pegasus But I made a mistake and thought I'd see how the frames go together ,one thing lead to another so I've almost finished the framing😏😄 Parts are clearly marked and the youtube instructions are ok But some stages are in the wrong order after their editing ,it's also a prototype from the look of it but it is all there ,just needs some going back and forth in the video! The Laser cutting is very fine and precise so little clean up other than cleaning the char and the small nubbins left after their cut from the sheet! When i started I thought it seemed pretty flimsy but once you've fully built the side it's solid! pictures are front on and Starboard frames finished! ,the gun port and entry port framing is separate and are attached to the dowels. link to the whats in the box post
  2. Hi. David here. I thought I could start a build log in mid progress it that’s okay. I don’t have any photos of my previous work on this, but I’ll start now. I probably should say that this might be more of a “how to avoid mistakes that I made” rather than a “see how good a job I did.” This is going to be a skill building project for me. I know that Victory changed over time so I’m not trying to be perfect but to follow the sources and use my judgement when they disagree or are missing details. I want to make it… well if not completely accurate then at least plausible. And something nice to go on the wall! I also didn’t want to spend a fortune on upgrading it. I grabbed up this kit back in 2007 and set it aside for a while. Eventually I got around to working on it. I followed the instructions in the beginning. I joined the two half frame units, attached the keel and keelson, planked the hold, and added the orlop deck. I then decided it was not very accurate. I put it aside for a time. Around 2019, as I was heading towards retirement, I started getting serious about redoing it and I started my research. Main print sources used so far: · McGowan, Alan P. HMS Victory: Her Construction, Career, and Restoration. Naval Institute Press, 1999. · Bugler, Arthur R. H.M.S. Victory: Building, Restoration & Repair. Her Majesty's Stationary Office, 1966. · McKay, John. The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Anatomy of the Ship). Naval Institute Press, 2000. · Longridge, C. Nepean. The Anatomy of Nelson’s Ships. Percival Marshal & Co., Ltd, 1955. · Goodwin, Peter. The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War: 1650 – 1850. Naval Institute Press, 1987. · Lavery, Brian. The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War, 1600 – 1815. Naval Institute Press, 1987 · Peter G. Goodwin (2013) The Application and Scheme of Paintworks in British Men-of-War in the Late Eighteenth and Early Nineteenth Centuries, The Mariner's Mirror, 99:3, 287-300, DOI: 10.1080/00253359.2013.815993 I also did a lot of searching on the web for photographs and YouTube has several good video tours that helped with a few areas that don’t show well in the plans or in any photographs I had seen. I decided to have the forward edge of the model end with the forward wall of the pump room. I didn’t want to try to open the room to show the pumps. The other edge would end at the orlop deck beam aft of the shot locker. On the McKay plans this would be from about station 1? to about station 8? I will say that the McKay plans scale easily to 1:96 but this model is listed as 1:98. I felt the difference was small enough to work around. I bought some additional walnut wood strips and sheets to supplement what came with the kit since I needed different sizes. Sizes I mention in this are how they were listed by the seller in my order, but the actual materials vary a little bit. I don’t have any power tools other than a Dremel tool with a shaper/router table and a Rockwell Bladerunner for home repairs. They are okay for rough cutting and shaping but not for the fine stuff. The hold. The first thing that I did was remove my previous orlop deck entirely. Next, I removed one plank on either side of the keelson to create the limber passages and covered them with thin limber boards. I traced out templates and used the Bladerunner to rough cut some riders from a 1/8” walnut sheet and shaped them with the Dremel. They are not as tight a fit as I would like. If I had something thicker, I probably would have used it. I built the pump house from 1mm x 3mm strips. I put in a door on the port side even though I couldn't get a good view anywhere to see what it looked like. The platforms are 2mm x 2mm with 2mm wide strips. I’ll detail later with hinges for the shot locker lids along with iron and shingle ballast. I planked the exterior up to the level of the orlop using the kit supplied strips. Orlop Deck I used 4mm x 4mm walnut strips for the orlop deck beams, 2.5mm x 2.5mm for the fore and aft carlings and 1.5mm x 1mm for the athwartship carlings. I tried adding the carlings with the beams in place and leaving room for the deck boards to recess. I used 2mm x 5mm strips for the waterways. It ended up uneven in places. I should have built the deck as one unit before installing it. I didn’t paint the underside of the deck but I probably should have. Probably too late now. I cut knees from the 1/8” sheet. For the pump house on the orlop I used 2mm x 2mm uprights with 0.6mm x 3mm strips. I arranged the strips in a louvered pattern. I wasn’t able to leave a gap between each strip for ventilation so just pretend that they are there. I felt the kit grate was too bulky, so I purchased a grate with 0.6mm holes and cut a piece to size. If my math is right the openings scale to 2.35 inches at 1:98. I framed it with 1mm x2mm strips. Kit grate. Pearwood grate. I painted the sides of this deck and the pump house white.
  3. Hi all, I decided to finally venture back into wooden ship models, after a long break where I focused on plastic kits (ships and other subjects). But I have been getting into woodturning also, and love working with wood. Having built my fair share of full-hull (mostly POB) models both kit and scratch, this time I have decided to focus on cross-sections. This lets me focus on fittings, masting/rigging, and detailing a smaller model which is easier to display, won't (hopefully) take years, and less workspace to build. So I thought - where to start? I managed to pick up the cross-section kits from DeAgnosti of Victory (1/72) and Endeavour (1/48) off a builder who only did the main ship builds. And I have a HMS Vanguard (1/72) with a damaged hull which I'll use as a basis for a cross-section of that, and there's some other nice kits and pracitums out there now. But to start, I thought I'd go for something potentially simpler. Enter, the Modeller's Shipyard HMS Sirius. I won't go on too much about the ship itself, many are familiar with the flagship of the First Fleet which settled Australia. But in short it started life as Berwick, built in 1780 then bought by the Royal Navy in 1781, she had a few adventures before being renamed Sirius in 1796 as a 6th-rate and prepared for the journey to New South Wales. Wrecked in 1790 off Norfolk Island. As for the kit - some contents pics below before I get started. All timber and fittings appear nicely done, with the deck planking laser-engraved sheets rather than initial planks. I'm thinking of using these for simplicity this time around. Mine weren't engraved very well, so I'm waiting on replacements. Not as many parts as a proper kit, but all nicely packaged. I can't comment on accuracy at this point - I read some questioning of the full HMS Sirius kit by MS, but as I get the frames made I'll do a measure against drawings I have. Instructions appear very good, but no actual scale plans are included. In terms of improvements I plan, beyond individual planks TBC, I will aim to: - add copper plates, since multiple sources describe the ship as being coppered - add more items in the hold. It comes with a few barrels and an (anchor?) cable, but records state she was heavily laden for the voyage so I'll add more barrels, sacks, etc - maybe even the ship's surgeon's piano it reportedly carried! - replace engraved gratings with built-up wooden ones - improve mess deck details like the hammocks, tables, etc and add lanterns (lanthorns?), maybe some gear, etc - include additional cannon details and tools - try to make nicer barrels - and maybe other improvements like pumps, any identified missing rigging details, etc. So, thanks if you've read this far! I hope to make a start on it this weekend, along with setting up a space for "indoor" tools (any major surgery will be done in the shed). Really this intro is just to motivate me to start, and complete, a build log 🙂
  4. I have commenced researching this famous roman shipwreck. It was discovered off the coast of Toulon in 1967 at a depth of about 20 metres. The hull was largely intact, sufficiently so for reasonably reliable reconstruction to be made of its lines. It appears to be a very large merchantman of about 400 tons with a length of about 40 metres. At the time of its demise in the middle of the first century BCE it was carrying a cargo of wine in amphorae and glazed pottery. The cargo has protected the hull timbers. Excavations led by Andre Tchernia and later by Patrice Pomey of the Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique have revealed one the best preserved shipwrecks of the ancient mediterranean world and have made it a suitable subject for a detailed model. I hope to proceed much along the same method as I used for my venetian round ship reconstruction. Wish me luck! Cheers Dick
  5. After a longtime out of the hobby I thought I'd ease myself back in by doing something simple so I picked the Corel Victory cross section 😎🤣 So obligatory pictures of the box , full sized plan and references.
  6. Good day, So it starts. I purchased the San Francisco in a hobby store in Ottawa Canada. This is perfect for practicing and learning my new hobby. As well as won't have to contend with planking a full hull. I'm using carpenter glue in this case. It dries Yellow-ish so I'm not sure if this matters or I should just use the normal white PVA. I'm planning to use Legos for squaring. I used Legos years ago to square other wood projects I did..so why not.
  7. About 2 months ago I got the itch to continue my nearly fifty years of model boat/ship building by adding a cross section model of the USS CONSTITUTION to my fleet. A few Google searches pointed me to this site and the build logs by TomCulb and UnixGuy. After reading through their build threads as well as Model Shipways online instructions I ordered the kit from Amazon. I'm really looking forward to the detailed standing and running rigging. Fortunately my kit had no missing parts. I made sure the brass etched gun port hinges were included. On to the build. I'll offer up some tips and minor alterations. I have quickly come across the challenge of the differing years documentation as well as a few errors in the kit instructions. Overall the quality of the sheet goods and laser cutting is excellent. Basic frames, Keel, Mast Step, and hold walls. The hold walls installed without the need to wet or use heat. Nice tight joints. Mast Step and Limbers per instructions Ready for gravel ballast Based on the top of the mast step I extended lines out to the forward and aft frames to establish level lines for the tape. This helped to a=ensure the gravel bed was level and not under or over filled. Based TomCulbs report of dripping glue I did place the model on a paper plate and I also drained excess water on paper towel prior to placing in the hold. Very pleased with results - level bed and not a single loose pebble when inverted. I will not install the barrels until the outer planking is complete. This will also allow good visibility when installing the pump suction pipes into the hold.
  8. INTRO I don’t have a proper box-opening picture, but I didn’t decide to join a forum and post the build until I had already started. This is only my second ship model. My first was Model Shipways’ Bluenose II that I completed in 1994. I started a couple others along the way and lost interest, or I wasn’t satisfied with my workmanship and abandoned them. So far, I’m very much enjoying this kit. I could have completed the model already but continue researching documents, plans, and photos as I go in anticipation of another build. The materials seem to be very good quality though I only have a few data points for comparison. Incidentally, I have seen many builds of the Mamoli cross section, but only one of Model Shipways’ kit (Tomculb’s build). In addition to the manual, I have a copy of Marquardt’s USS Constitution, Magoun’s The Frigate Constitution and Other Historic Ships (1st Ed.), all the downloadable resources from the USS Constitution Museum, and various other documents and pictures from the Internet. BASIC HULL FRAME STRUCTURE The initial framing and main hold construction were straightforward. The 96-page manual with color photos of the build is very instructive. There are three plywood frames with the “bow” frame corresponding to the half-beam aft of beam 17, the “main” frame to beam 20, and the “stern” frame to beam 22. Beam numbering corresponds to a 1992-1996 restoration diagram. MAIN HOLD I painted the hold white, thinned with a little water, which seemed to do a good job of whitewashing while preserving the wood grain. This was followed with a scribe along the seams and a very diluted gray wash to bring out some of the details. I’m not sure I like the Model Shipways water-based paints. They’re very thick, I find them difficult to properly thin, and though I enjoy the easy cleanup, I believe the solvent based Floquil paints I used on the Bluenose II to be superior. (I just read that Testors discontinued the Floquil line in 2013.) I have some questions/comments about the main hold. I am not critiquing the model. I want to build the model again or maybe scratch build the same cross section in the same or larger scale and have questions on details not included in the kit. This area is proving difficult as I haven’t found any pictures. Diagonal Riders The diagonal rider angle appears too acute relative to the keel compared to any drawings I have seen. I read that the 1797 diagonal riders were removed in 1820 and then new ones installed in the 1992-1996 restoration so maybe that is where the discrepancy originates. Marquardt illustrates an approximately 40-degree angle from the keel with riders terminating at beams 18, 20, and 22 for the original riders and current photos and illustrations show about the same or greater angle, but shifted aft and terminating at beams 20, 22, and 24. The photo of my model shows the instructed placement (~20-degrees). The second photo is the 1992-1996 restoration diagram with Marquardt diagonals overlaid in yellow and Model Shipways in blue. Ballast I understand that most ships were brought into trim at this period using pig iron ballast and kentledge, but that in September 1813 John Tilley had seventy tons of pebble ballast delivered to the ship. What I’m not certain of is if it would be evenly distributed in the hold as pictured in many models. Some of the illustrations depict what appears to be a structure around the bilge pump tubes and main mast, perhaps with hatches to allow traveling the length of the ship’s hold? The illustration also depicts no ballast or stores directly on the keelson. Shot Lockers? Marquardt depicts two shot lockers; one would be near the model’s bow frame at beam 18 and the other forward of the model’s stern frame at beam 21. Are there any representative illustrations or pictures of these shot lockers? How was the shot retrieved? Spirit Room? Other illustrations show a forward bulkhead for the spirit room. Are there any illustrations or pictures of this area? Would the only difference in this room and the main hold be the type of stores kept there? Limber Holes and Limber Boards? Marquardt shows a limber gate on either side of the keel. Other illustrations also show a limber plank (waterway cover) on either side of the keelson. Would the bilge pump tubes terminate into this waterway? What I like: Quality of materials including the barrels and gravel. 96-page instruction manual also available online. 30” x 40” full-scale drawings included What I would change: Increase diagonal rider angle to match Marquardt’s. Questions: Were there structures in the main hold around the bilge pump tubes and/or main mast? What did the shot lockers look like and how was shot retrieved (e.g., hinged top)? Did the limber planks remain uncovered and accessible underway? Was there a dividing bulkhead on the Spirit Room?
  9. As far as I know this is the first log on this site for Model Shipways’ cross section of the USS Constitution. I bought the kit last summer, when I think it was pretty newly released, and when I was about midway through my Spray build. I have never done a cross section, and I was attracted to the novelty (for me), the detail, and the fact that I wouldn’t be spending many months simply building a hull. So far I am not in the least disappointed. Upon opening the relatively small densely packed box I soon realized this was not going to be a simple, quick build. There are five sheets of plans (although only two are really plans; the smaller three show the location of the hundreds of laser cut parts as laid out on their sheets of wood as well as some photo-etched brass fittings). The two plan sheets are three feet by almost four feet (that’s a two foot ruler in the photo of them laid out on my floor). I found a couple poster hangers on Amazon and hung them on the wall to better view them. The fittings are extensive, as is the number of laser cut wood parts. The only thing that seems underwhelming in volume is the number of wood strips and dowels, but that kind of makes sense for a cross section. The really amazing thing for me are the instructions. Almost 100 pages, with an average of 3 or more color photos per page! As with most Model Shipways kits, the instructions can be downloaded as a pdf from their website, which makes choosing an appropriate build a lot easier. With instructions this voluminous, it is helpful to have them on a computer and able to be searched, if there is a specific issue you want to look ahead about (as I mention below). First step is to cut out the three frames, or what I might have called ribs, which are the skeleton of this part of the hull. The laser cut pieces are securely attached with a minimum of tabs, and the laser cutting is sharp, precise and complete -- well done. All three parts are attached to a building stand, that will be cut off later in the build. Two lengthwise pieces connect those stand parts, and the slots all need to be sanded so they fit. I made those connections quite tight, as they will not be disassembled for quite some time. Eight additional crosswise laser cut pieces (identified as spacers) are provided to connect the frames and to keep them a precise distance apart at the level of each deck. These will be moved around a bit from time to time during the build, and I sanded their slots so they are a little looser. The instructions assign six of them to what seems like a random distribution among the orlop, gun and spar decks (there is also a berthing deck, which for some reason gets none of these spacers). Interestingly, I haven’t found anywhere in the instructions or the plans where the deck names are expressly identified, but it is pretty easy to figure out by looking ahead at the pictures in the instructions (orlop, berthing, gun and spar, from bilge to sunshine). Assembling and gluing the keel (which needs a rabbet cut in it), the keelson pieces, and the keelson cap is all quite straightforward. The instructions suggest, and the pictures show, writing “B” on the bow end of the keel to assure that it is properly installed. That struck me as a bit odd, until I realized that the three frames vary fairly significantly in shape and that things are not symmetrical for and aft. No big deal as to the keel, but a good habit to get into when dealing with other pieces later in the build. The slot in the frames for the keel is a loose fit, and I used a couple of rubber bands to press the keel up against the frame when gluing it in place (careful to glue it to the frame and not to the building stand). A mast step is then made out of a 1½” length piece of the remaining ¼” x ½” strip. To avoid chewing up the soft basswood with a large bit, I drilled the ¼” hole for the mast by starting with a ⅛” bit and working my way up to ¼” with the three or four intermediate bits I own. I then chamfered the hole with a Dremel tool. Note that I did not cut the mast step off of the ¼” x ½” strip until I had finished all of this -- it’s nice to have something to hang on to when working on a piece like this. Limbers (I had to look up the nautical definition) on either side of the keelson cap are shaped from ¼” square strips. Here the change in shape of the hull fore and aft makes shaping them a little like shaping a propeller. The instructions complicate that quite a bit by having the limbers slope up to the base of the mast foot where the two intersect, but the plans show the mast foot simply continuing straight down on each side to intersect with the limbers. In one of the photos below I tried to draw in red what the instructions direct. I chose to follow the plans instead, and added a 1/16” strip to the bottom of each side of the mast step to fill the gap between it and the limber below.
  10. With the Santisima trinidad build finished It's time to start on the cross section, also a kit from occre I will be building it in the same style i've done the full ship, matching the weathering and overall look Kit will be bashed and several additions to hopefully improve it, many of those additions inspired on the @md1400cs build
  11. Purchased this Corel kit around 40 years ago in Genoa Italy. At that time, in a previous life, I was a Marine Engineer on a container ship that continually circumnavigated the world, with lots of stops in Genoa and the UK etc....plenty of opportunities to buy kits, books and modelling tools. My intention was to ultimately build a full model of the Victory from a Corel kit. The Cross-Section was to be my apprenticeship in Period Ship modelling. Anyway, as it does, life took over and the kit found its way into the back of a cupboard gathering dust. Three children later and after a long career in the marine industry, I finally retired from the Merchant Navy and started a 5 year renovation of our house. During this period I also managed to acquire a Corel Kit of the complete Victory model, which true to form, also made its way into the back of the cupboard to share the dust collection. Lots of advice on here as to the difficulties involved building the full Corel Victory, mainly due to the poor instructions supplied etc. This along with recognising my own penchant for completely ignoring manuals anyway, I thought it finally time to start the Cross- Section. What could go wrong..?? I have no intention of trying to create a "museum quality build" (there are plenty of them on here to admire)...!! Having said that, I have only kept the parts list for reference. The model will be built from the plans supplied and I will build to the best of my ability. Hopefully I will learn from my mistakes. After all, I have I have been fortunate to have had the opportunity to build full size 1:1 scale ships, in yards in Hamburg, Singapore and Australia.....no building instructions, just a specification and lots of technical drawings. Time to jump right in...Firstly, I didn't like the building jig arrangement. It limits opportunities to physically handle the hull...Besides, the wine was far too good to be put into service for an extended period. To overcome this issue I made a "strong-back" from cedar. This, combined with some sturdy elastic bands will hold the hull in the correct shape when removing it from the jig.
  12. Hi I am a new member that would like to share some photos of an vintage kit I recently purchased. It is a mid ship cross-section of the Swedish warship Vasa, by the company Igra from the Czech republic. It is 1:60 scale. Time has bleached the paper flags and the decals are probably unusable. The original plywood sheets are warped and are not laser cut, old school here. I plan to use real wood in place of the plywood sheets, which are great to have as a reference. I like this model because of the large scale which should help my inexperienced fingers. By being a cross-section I can avoid planking the bow and stern which I have failed to succeed with on a previous attempt. Unfortunately the original Czech instructions with images are missing, so if anyone has a copy to share I would appreciate to hear from you. Cheers.
  13. Spurred on by a build report on the DeAgostini Sovereign of the Seas and after this kit was no longer available, I decided to build the DeAgostini HMS Victory. I started looking for a complete set. On a larger online auction site, I promptly found what I was looking for. 150 booklets and a started hull, all together for EUR 400, I couldn't resist. Since the completion will take some time, I have decided, to build the Cross Section model 1:72 (booklets 131-151) first. I thought 21 construction stages would be quick to build, no way.
  14. I have always wanted to build a cross section, and since my next build will be HMS victory, so I have chosen corel's Victory and corel's victory cross section in 1:98 scale. I 've been told, that corel's kit is quite old and in some parts outdated. some pictures from cargohold, I have added pump house, shot holder and hull ribs
  15. Many years ago (25-30?), before the advent of the internet, I bought and started construction of this cross section of the USS Constitution. It may have been following a visit to that venerable ship in Boston that I felt so inspired. I got the frame built,deck beams formed and installed, and the planking done outside and in. At that time I started to feel overwhelmed,with many questions that needed answering before I went any further. With no help readily available I packed the unfinished kit away. Someday. I never lost my love of wooden ships and had the opportunity to visit several including the CW Morgan of Mystic, Cutty Sark in Greenwich, and the Draken Harfarge Viking ship. I still felt the tug of building a ship and when we moved to Maryland 3 years ago I started reading about The Pride of Baltimore II which I decided I'd really like to build. I figured that my long neglected Constitution would be a great practice project since I already had most of the hull built, and it only has one mast and spars, and associated rigging. I took her out of her cardboard box dry dock and started work. I made a crude working cradle to hold the hull, and gave the ship a quick coat of polyurethane as a sealer. The The mast dowel is just inserted to check it's fit and rake. The mast step is imperfectly fitted to the hold, but I figure that it will be covered with ballast and barrels so I didn't worry about it. I've read through the other build logs for this kit and if I was to do it over, I would not have installed the deck beams other than the ones over the hold to make it easier to install decking and deck fittings. You live and learn. Installing all the below deck items should be "fun". In my zeal, I mistakenly added un necessary hatch cross pieces between the lower deck's beams. Oh well, it was good practice. I'm planning on using copper foil rather than the cheesy looking green wood chips supplied with the kit. Anyone here tried simply scribing the lines in the copper tape to simulate individual copper plates? It would sure be easier, but might not look convincing. I might try to give the copper an aged patina which could enhance the illusion I can always try a strip or two on a piece of scrap wood to see. One thing that deterred me from working on this kit when I first got it was a dread of figuring out how to thread deadeyes and form ratlines. Now that there's a resource like Model Ship World, I'll have some guidance which is a great relief. I need to figure out a better way to mount the hull. The kit just includes a cheap looking piece of pine and I gather you're supposed to run a couple of screws up through it into the keel,which does not sound very secure. I might build a nicer version of my crude work cradle in better wood, like cherry, for final displaying. I thought it might be fun to have some crew members on deck and aloft, but I can't find any in 1:93 scale. Do you think figures in 1:87,HO railroad scale, would look 'way too off scale? I could probably modify some of those. What's with the natural colored standing rigging cordage supplied with the kit? Can I somehow dye it black or would it be better to replace it? I know I'll have tons of other questions as time goes on, and I welcome any and all criticism and suggestions.
  16. Hey anyone, Since I finished my Revell 1:96 Plastic Constitution in the spring, I've been wanting to get into wood modeling. As I've only been a plastic modeler to date, I was a bit apprehensive as it feels like a whole new skill set (which I don't have). I've done nothing with wood, other than trim a few tree branches along the way. So, with that in mind, my first wood ship was the Midwest Peterboro canoe (at 1:12). It took maybe 6 weeks to do (I never seem to do any of this fast), and here's the result: Next up, I needed more experience. I have a Syren kit "on deck", but don't feel ready to tackle that yet. I felt a cross section would be a good next step up in complexity, as it involves some planking, some deck furniture, some masting, etc. A little bit of everything and with a ship I know pretty well from the Revell model. So, taking advantage of a nice sale by ModelExpo, I purchased the Mamoli USS Constitution Cross Section at 1:93, so very close in scale to my full ship plastic build. I'll detail the build step by step and stick to the instructions as best I can. I'll also be using some fine builds here on MSW to guide my progress. Suggestions and criticism welcome - I'm a wood novice so I'm especially interested in tips, tricks, best practices, painting suggestions, etc. Thanks for looking. Andy.
  17. I've finally decided to take the plunge and start my first wooden model. I don't have much experience working with wood (although a friend and I did recently complete a wooden truss-tube telescope - his 3rd, my 1st - but that involved mostly square cuts at a much larger scale), so I thought this cross section would be a good way to get my feet wet, so to speak. With this kit I think I can learn some of the basic skills I will need without getting too caught up right away with learning to bend planks, learn how to strop and rig blocks (3mm blocks! How do you work with those?) and enjoy seeing how the rigging comes together. I've already figured out things I would have done differently, but I think for the most part they will not affect the final look. You will see in some of the pictures below that the planking seems to be at an angle, and not perpendicular to the frames - in reality the spacers are not parallel to the keel but the planking is - should have scribed a line on the frames where the spacers go. I've decided to follow one suggestion I came across in one of the really excellent build logs I've come across and plank the hold up to the point where the deck beams attach and use the planking to keep the support level. One question on bending the deck beams - the plans call for gluing 2 strips of lathe together and putting it in a jig to get the right curve - I am assuming I can just smother the wood in glue and bend and place it in the jig (with wax paper to keep it from sticking to anything else) and it would keep its shape when dry (that is what we did to create the one curved piece on the telescope). Is that correct, or do I need to wet the wood, soak it, putting it in vinegar or rubbing alcohol? Thanks for stopping by.
  18. So it seems, you finally managed to lure me out of my hiding on the lower deck, and get me to start a build log... While I have the CAF Enterprise waiting to be built, I think the Granado, might be a smaller "test case". I started assembling the first frame, and already have a first question, on the lower timbers there are bevelling marks in the joint area. James writes, that the joints should be perpendicular to the frames, so it is safe to ignore these marks? Jan
  19. Hi folks Mississippi finished and now started on the OcCre cross section of Santisima Trinidad. I've been looking at a few build logs especially Michael's bashed construction. Awed. I'm not that confident to reconstruct the kit so will be following the instructions but plan to 'embellish' as necessary based on my experience so far on the Agamemnon including using this kit to practice a bit on rigging, etc before returning to the Aggie. Starting off, only one frame slightly warped. Coming along nicely. Like the initial kit's work stand as it has made working on the hull quite stable. The yellow bucket is the latest in modelling tools! My man cave has developed a leak during storms from the East (fortunately quite rare where I live). So until I can get the man cave roof re-felted ( I may even get tiles/shingles put on) I'll have to live with it. Adding eyebolts for cannon rigging. I plan to to fully rig the top deck cannons and put simplified rigging on lower decks. Hull nearly complete. Purchased the Amati 'master cutter', don't know why I didn't get one years ago...
  20. Sunday, February 21st 2021 A workbench near Brisbane, Australia. Keel was laid and construction began on what will become HMS Victory (1:72 Cross Section from De Agostini). Considerable effort was made to complete the first three stages of construction within one day, although there was still time for tea breaks and history lessons. This is my first cross-section model. I am not new to scale modelling, and this will technically be my second wooden ship model following a recent completion of an Artesania Latina HMS Endeavour Longboat. I have always been intrigued by cross-section models though as I love being able to see all the detail inside that is often (though not always) missed when building a full ship. I had debated for quite a while whether to get this kit though. Price and postage to Australia is quite frankly prohibitive, and I am not completely sold on the way they model the mast. However, price and shipping within America is quite reasonable, and I had a work colleague in America for a course. So I therefore decided to bite the bullet and get my hands on this kit. As a few others have shown, the kit comes in a whole bunch of individual stage bags that may or may not match the stage being built, but this is no real issue for me. Either way, I am looking forward to really getting into and enjoying this kit and build. Kindest regards, godzilla_rising P.S. If anyone happens to have any plans that would either suit or be easily scaled to 1:72 of the full mast for HMS Victory (I believe its the main mast) I would love to have a chat. I am tempted, though not fully sold on the idea, of completely scratch building the mast and doing the rigging to really set off this kit. Maybe.
  21. Having wanted to get into the hobby since childhood I have finally taken the plunge, in a fairly small way to start. I have limited space to display so decided on this cross section, it seemed to be good quality and has very detailed instructions both in writing and by way of online videos. Looking on MSW I can't see that anyone has completed the build of this. Having read up and watched the videos I ordered and it arrived within a week. Being a beginner to this hobby I will probably build it as intended but we shall see. First up the box contents, all in 30 neatly labelled bags, one for each stage. I'm not sure how much it is right to post but will probably do one for each section as it is completed, that seems about right.
  22. Hi folks I have just purchased the Santisima Trinidad Section kit from OcCre and have decided to share its build with you. All comments and/or suggestions are greatly appreciated as hopefully they will help make me a better builder. There were only two problems with the kit when it arrived and they were: Poor quality (rough finish and holes drilled in all angles) of the small (4mm) blocks and pulleys and 3 of the 6 half frames were warped. As for the blocks and pulleys, it may be that I am a bit fussy, but there are better quality versions available and I personally expect kits that cost this much to have that higher level of quality. All of the other parts looked to be great so I am not expecting any problems there. In case some of you are wondering what you get, I have enclosed photos of the whole kit so you can get a good idea of what you will be receiving should you purchase the kit. Daryl
  23. Oops! Just realised I had to start the build log to obtain the plans. So here it is. First steps at the cross-section. Cutting the lengths was really easy. The only problem was defining the dimensions as I much prefer to work from CAD and in metric -- and I don't know the original dimensions of the real timbers. So I diligently took the plans into TurboCAD and traced them. The difficulty, of course, is defining which part of the thickness of the lines to take as reference since the drawn lines are 0.38mm wide. This resulted in my having a variance of between 0.1 and 0.2mm between the different views of the keel, keelson and false keel. In the end I just decided on a particular width which seemed closest (e.g. 3.2mm for the false keel) since I reckoned the differences to be so small as not to be worth fussing about. All the same, it might be an idea for beginners like myself to have the original dimensions of the timbers shown on the plans so we can just draw them in CAD. As a result, I also thought I'd wait to see the plans in their entirety before settling on a particular set of measurements for the purposes of 3D modelling in CAD, so I can use the CAD drawings to think about the whole process. As to the rabbet, I toyed with the idea of cutting a scraper, but found that one of my milling pieces fit the profile exactly. So this did not prove a difficulty -- although I am fully aware that longer sections of keel would demand more complex curves and angles. So the following picture shows the progress thus far, and I request access to the plans if that's ok. I'm still working on the last stages of my Sherbourne (anchors and swivel guns) but want to see the Triton plans as soon as possible so that I can work out what I need and how I'll be doing it. Thanks Tony
  24. This will be my first wooded model kit and winter project. I'm about ready to lay the keel and begin assembly of the hull timbers. All helpful tips will be appreciated. Thanks, Dave
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