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Showing results for tags 'deck'.
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Hi all, A question.. I've deck planked Vanguard Models' Lady Eleanor Fifie and am wondering how best to cut similar holes to those shown on the supplied pre-formed deck (see below). I've managed to cut the main fish hatch by drilling a series of 1mm holes, using side cutters to 'join' the holes and then a Dremel cylindrical sander to clean up the hatch edges. However, the other openings are smaller and more fiddly. Ideally I'd like a plunge cutter with a 1/8" (4mm) blade, say, to do most of the heavy lifting but I don't think such a tool exists. I have a full sized oscillating multi tool (https://fein.com/en_uk/machines/oscillating-multi-tools/multimaster/multimaster-mm-300-plus-start-72297261240/ ) but it's relatively large, aggressive and it's smallest tool width appears to be 10mm. I know I can 'muck through' and cut the holes by drilling, cutting, filing etc but I'm always looking for the easiest way to do things but with an acceptable result. Anyone got any suggestions, Thanks, Richard
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Dear all Could I ask for your help in understanding how the deck is drawn in small sailboats. I am not exactly sure what or how to ask as my knowledge and understanding of this is very shallow but I ll try. I think I have understood that the camber of the beams is a parabola and that there are many ways that this can be drawn. My main problem though is the deck centreline. The way I understand it, it is essentially a straight line form the stem to the transom, having chosen a crown height at max beam. Due to the deck furniture and the very visible sheer, this straight deck centreline is hidden from view. However, it seems that most decks are truly curved. 1. Is there a rule of how curved the deck centreline can be? 2. If the centreline is curved, what happens to the king plank that needs to be straight? 3. Suppose I draw a slightly curved centreline that pleases the eye and then arrange the beams using the same way to figure out the camber. Is it likely that the deck planks will sit nicely or will a lot of fairing be needed? 4. Is the crown height measured perpendicular to the horizontal level or to the sheer? In the first case the beams will meet the deck planks at an angle and will need fairing but in the second will sit flat. Or is this not an issue to the relatively small rise of the sheer? 5. Is it better to go for a straight centreline or is it better to have a bit of curve? Apologies if I don't make much sense! Vaddoc
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Hi. I have finally begun building wooden ship models after years of gathering tools, resources, watching and learning, practicing on plastic aircraft models etc. I have many models in my collection but opted to build the most expensive one to begin with. Crazy I know, but hear my reason why. My choice is the weekly part Endeavour from magazines from Newsagents. Because it came in weekly parts, it ended up being a very expensive model. BUT...It had comprehensive, step-by-step, fully illustrated build instructions. Because it was published weekly, some parts of the build required waiting for the next week's issue to continue, and therein lay my problem. The deck comes in several sections, and the instructions required you to place deck planks on that section, and have some overlay awaiting the next deck section. Now, I did wait till I had ALL the weekly parts, and COULD have continued on immediately, but I chose to compartmentalise the build into weekly build sessions for personal reasons. So the overhanging deck planks interspaced with empty decking areas that will have deck planks placed in the next issue or build session got a bit dry I suppose, and when gluing the next section of planks, the planks tended to "rise" up a bit and not sit flat. I hope the attached photo illustrates the planks sitting off the deck, and not quite glued down correctly. So that's my problem...how do I fix this? I thought perhaps I'd water down some white glue until it was very watery, suck it up into a syringe with a needle, then try to carefully squirt it under the lifting planks and place some kind of weight on it to help it "sit down" properly. Does any experienced ship builder have any other ideas? Any help will be gratefully received. I am really at a loss, and that solution seems like it might work, but I don't want to mess it up. Sure, I have enough planking (and better good quality stuff too) but I want to build this first model out of the box, no scratch building. Can anyone provide a solution? Any suggestions for a better way? Or helpful suggestions for my method. What sort of weight can I use that will not stick to the deck without damaging it? Can I just squirt on a thin layer of white glue and hope it will seep in under the planks? As I said, any help at all will be gratefully accepted. Thanks in advance Steve
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Hello all, Since I decided not to do any rigging on my Victory model and since I already made the lower main mast and top I decided to start this small side project to use the parts I've already made and also to put at good use the rope machine I bought a while ago. Additionally this will break a bit the monotony of repetitive work on full hull Victory. The section starts at the main mast and ends at the end of main channels and only from the quarter deck up. This allow me to do most of the main mast standing rigging - less the stays. Now I am imagining this project as the full main mast including the yards but no sails. This might change in the future. Here are some pictures with the progress so far. Regards, Alexandru
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Hi hopefully someone can help. I have just about finished building the Amati Oseberg Viking ship and am not sure what to use to finish it. I was thinking of staining the hull and deck with an light oak stain. Could someone help as I do not want to ruin the finish after taking so long to build it. Thanks Steve
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Hi, Im what I describe as a Re-Newbie, as it's been so long since my last kit model. I'm about to start on the Heller 1/100 HMS Victory. While this is plastic I'd like to add a set of wood decks. Simply because. Working with wood is no problem as I've been making scratch models of furniture for years. Usually 1/1 scale :-). I was a cabinetmaker until illness. But enough of that. I'm struggling to find any idea of how the planks were laid out, what size they should be, width and length, how far the treenails should be placed. Anything really. I'm not after über accurate just looks good. Can anyone help, with anything even just a link or decent image. Thanks Izzy
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