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Showing results for tags 'dory'.
Found 6 results
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Have started the Artesania Latina kit for a French built Newfoundland dory. Build wise there are several things I am curious about, for example, that the masts have no stays. Also, the oar being used as a bow-spit to stay the mast forward, when you have the sturdy bow? That said, I've seen references that each dory "skipper" could rig his dory as he liked it. So there could be a lot of variations used. Two masts also seem a complication for a rig that would need to be rigged down for transport on a schooner. If you have information on such dories, please let me know.
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- Saint Malo
- Artesania Latina
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Good evening, I'm Mr Pross, a green behind the ears model builder on the East coast of England. I have always had a fascination with the sea, sailing, pirates and marine folklore. I recently rediscovered plastic model building after picking up a beginners airfix kit while shopping for Christmas presents. I really enjoyed it and have aquired a few more Tamiya aircraft model kits, but fancied having a go at something built from wood and a boat seemed like the logical project. After reading "ccoyle's A Cautionary Tale" here I decided on the Lowell Grand Banks Dory kit by Model Shipways, it wasn't easy to find here in the UK but I think it's been worth the wait. The instructions are fairly clear and there is plenty of instruction on technique, which is very helpful for a beginner. I have recently been reading a fantastic book about the local Wherry boats "Black Sailed Traders by Roy Clark". One day I'd like to try building one of these iconic vessels from scratch, but in the meantime I am enjoying the Dory! However, it hasn't all been smooth sailing, the stem caught in my cuff this afternoon and I heard a crack, luckily I caught it before I snapped the bottom planks in half and a little pva and a couple of clamps fixed the damage. I'm a little concerned I don't have the stem and stern straight, any tips on how to get them true? I only have a few basic tools at the moment; a scalpel, some tweezers and some crocodile clamps. Would love some recommendations for tools that would help me complete this build to a decent standard.
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- Lowell Grand Banks Dory
- dory
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Another vintage kit by Laughing Whale. Found this kit on eBay, untouched and waiting to be built. 😎 Many of the pieces are pre-cut. Additional drawings and instructions look to be pretty good 👍 Construction starts with a the frame. This will be a lot of fun 🤩
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- Laughing Whale
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So I'm building the Smuggler dory for display. At 1/4" = 1', it's a small model. Here's the instruction sheet and kit parts.
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- dory
- BlueJacket Shipcrafters
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I’d like to recreate the build log for a planked half model that I posted a few years ago on another forum (not a model forum). I’m rewriting some of the text, and copying and pasting some of the text from the previous post. Pardon me if it sometimes appears a little disjointed. I've long been fascinated with the Swampscott type dories of Boston's North Shore, and I have considered building one out at my boat club. Years ago, I drew up a portrait of the sail plan for the Beachcomber, an exceptional boat from William Chamberlain's shop in Marblehead. I'll get bogged down if I try to describe it all here, so I will refer you to an article I wrote for my club newsletter. http://jimluton.com/dorymod/beachcomberarticle.pdf Below is the cover of a nice book, with Chamberlain's beachcomber on the cover. The lines, table of offsets, and construction plans for this boat are published in John Gardner’s “The Dory Book”. The half model is set up with half molds on a flat board (1/8" poplar ply), sawn to the boat’s profile shape, that represents the hull centerline. That profile shape is then mounted to a piece of MDF to keep it flat. I used 1-1/2" = 1'-0" as a convenient scale. The model is a manageable size (the 21' boat is about 32" long), and scale planking is relatively easy to come up with. 1/2" planking translates to 1/16". For this I used a sheet of 1/32" aircraft birch, which I cut in half and vacuum bagged together to make a 1/16", six ply sheet. The molds are cut from 1/8" Italian Poplar ply. The 1" thick transom is 1/8" mahogany, etc. etc. I already had the body plan drawn to scale in the computer, so I printed out the individual sections and glued them to the 1/8" ply mold stock, then cut them out and faired them on a little belt sander table. The molds and transom are each glued to the profile board in their respective positions, corresponding to their position on the lines plan. I used cyanoacrylate for this, as for the whole project. I mounted the profile board to a piece of MDF with an "L" shaped block on the back to facilitate clamping in the vise in various positions. I I'llI I'll stop here for now, and pick this up tomorrow. Time to work on the sharpie. Thanks for looking! Cricket
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It feels good to be back in the shipyard after a long hiatus. This build, as the title suggests, is a traditional fishing dory from North America and the UK. Young Modeler is an outfit out of Korea, and after searching through the list of banned manufacturers, I posed the question here in the wooden kits general section of the forum to see if they wee legit. @ccoyle was nice enough to follow up on this and suggest they were a legitimate company after further research. So thus begins my log. The package itself is quite small, bring nothing more than a blister pack with two sheets of 1/8" plywood with laser cut parts and two dowels about 8" long for the oar arms. The front of the instruction booklet is also the front of the packaging, with a brief history as well as technical specs minus any known scale. It also suggests that build time would be about 2 hours. Instructions are written in both Korean and English, and layed out in a very specific order. The first instruction says the order of assembly is to be "strictly obeyed". After looking through the instructions, I can understand why this is. Although not an overly complex build, if you miss a step or move ahead to quickly the whole build could be ruined. They even go as far as fairing the frames before attaching them to the base. Construction is fairly simple. Fairing between the tabs on the base, attaching the stem and stern, then the bulkheads and gunwales, etc. I have yet to complete the starboard side, simply due to glue drying time and other Admiralty commitments, however building is generally enjoyable and simple.
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