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  1. Introduction Welcome to my build log for Master Korabel's Phoenix (styled on the box as 'Brigantine Phoenix'). Photo courtesy of Master Korabel I'll start this log off by sharing a brief history of the ship, my reasons for choosing this particular kit, and some thoughts about how I'd like the model to look like when she's finished. This is Master Korabel's description of the ship (edited): "Cruiser Vessel 12 gun brigantine 'Phoenix' became part of the Black Sea Fleet in 1787. The crew included 52 people. It participated in the war with Turkey in 1787-1791. In 1788, as part of the squadron of Rear Admiral Count M.I. Voinovich, it went to sea in search of the enemy and took part in the battle near the island of Fidonisi. In 1789, as part of the detachments and squadrons, repeatedly went to sea in search of Turkish ships. It then participated in the war with France, 1798-1800, where it was used as a transport ship. In November 1798, this ship went to Sebastapol to Corfu with the provisions of the squadron of Vice Admiral F.F. Ushakov." There are several build logs for this kit already resident on MSW, which you can find listed here; at least two have been finished. I chose to add mine to this group for the following reasons: I like the subject -- that's always important when embarking on a build that may take several years to complete. Having built their cannon-armed yawl ('Canon Jolle'), I really like Master Korabel's kits. Their materials and plans are very good (with a few exceptions, which I will note in an ensuing post). One feature that I particularly appreciate is the laser-cut planking, which eliminates the need for spiling, a chore I do not enjoy. At 1/72 scale, the finished model will not be overly large, an important consideration in my household. Plus, that's the same scale as for the yawl, and it is also a common scale for card model sailing subjects. And finally, this kit will be my attempt to build the model that HMS Fly was supposed to be -- my one effort to pull off a nice-looking, square-rigged ship before retreating back into the shadowy world of building card airplanes. There's still plenty of time, of course, to decide on how I'd like the model to be finished, and I have done a lot of browsing online to see how others have finished theirs. Most builders opt to have leave their models largely unpainted, and that is certainly an option thanks to Master Korabel's use of very nice woods in their kits. However, one finished Phoenix has singularly caught my attention: I wish I could give the builder of this model the credit he deserves, but shortly after I found this photo, the website on which it was hosted disappeared, which is a shame, because there were more photos of this beautiful model that I would have liked to use for reference. The thing that really strikes me about this model is that despite what one might think at first glance, the model's hull is not coppered. Nope, that's just the natural tone of the walnut veneer used in the kit. It's like the best of both worlds -- both a fantastic paint job and some lovely bare wood. Anyways, that'll do for an introduction. In my next post, we'll take a look at an unboxing.
  2. I purchased this a few months ago from a www.hobbyterra.com, it is produced by ex USSR manufacturers – it's very complete and very detailed, all parts are laser cut – even the outside hull planking. It has instructions in Russian, but I'm a little rusty so I'll refer to the picture diagrams and the English instructions. When it's finished it will be 590 mm long, by 440 mm high and 220 mm wide. So here are some pictures:
  3. I have been wanting to try one of Master Korabel’s kits after reading about them on this site. I finally purchase the small gun boat and added the pre made sails. I am very impressed with the quality of the kit and the detailed instructions. The English is a bit strange but that is probably because it was translated from Russian; or maybe just written be a non native English speaker. Anyway, they are very clear, detailed and precise. The instructions seem to anticipate where one might go wrong and caution you. The picture shows the box contents and the first sub-assembly before gluing.
  4. Alas, I am currently away from the Granado build at the "Roanoke Island Shipyard" on the coast (sigh), so I have established a mini-secondary-shipyard to occupy my free time and irritate the Admiral. Because of the limited resources available at this inland location, I have elected to build the little wooden submarine "Morel". It is a kit made in Russia, but I had purchased it before Russia's/Putin's egregious land grab in the Ukraine had begun. Regardless of its origin and global politics, it appears to be a nice simple kit that will be a lot easier to build and less time-consuming to finish than the Granado build. There are also lots of good build logs out there for me to benefit from (e.g., Secret Vessel "Morel" by John Gummersall - FINISHED - Master Korabel - Scale 1:36). Because of the existing and outstanding build logs already out there, this one will be abbreviated at best, so please forgive my abruptly jumping in with both feet and a photograph of the build and a beer already in progress:
  5. I decided to take a break from the HMS Snake and do something more straight forward with no kit bashing. I initially bought the Falconet kit 9th century Viking ship but I plowed through that in less than a month. I have been wanting to buy the Avos since it came out so I decided this would be a good time. By the time my Avos is done Chris Watton might have finished developing the HMS Sphinx and My Snake will never get finished. 😆 I just post a picture of the box for now, I don't plan on covering all the contents in the box as there is a thorough review buy James H.
  6. I started this build some time in May and currently I'm in the process of shaping yards. I'll be posting pictures and comment starting with the very beginning and hopefully I'll catch up to the build's current state. This is the model of Russian tender named "Avos". As far as I know this word only exists in Russian language and describes a world view when you don't know the outcome but hope for the best, citing Wikipedia: The Russian avos' (Russian: русское авось) describes a philosophy of behavior, or attitude, of a person who ignores possible problems or hassles and, at the same time, expects or hopes for no negative results or consequences. It is an attitude that treats life as unpredictable and holds that the best one can do is count on luck. This ship is well know in Russia because of "Juno and Avos" rock opera that was performed for the first time in 1981. It tells the story of a tragic love between Russian explorer Nikolai Rezanov and a daughter of the governor of Spanish California. "Avos" was a tender built in Novoarkhangelsk (present Sitka, Alaska) in Russian America in 1806. She was manned by a crew of 12 and was a part of an expedition to California headed by explorer Nikolai Rezanov that consisted of two ships, brigantine "Juno" and tender "Avos". They arrived in California in the same year, to get provisioning for starving Russian settlements in Alaska. During his stay in San Francisco, Rezanov met a 15-year old daughter of a Spanish governor Maria de la Concepcion Arguello. Maria fell in love with Rezanov and they got engaged. Unfortunately they could not get married because she was a Catholic and he belonged to the Eastern Orthodox Church. Rezanov had to obtain the Russian Emperor's permission to marry Maria. Promptly, he sailed back to Alaska and then to Okhotsk. From there he had to cross all of Russia east to west on horseback to get to St Petersburg. During this perilous trip he fell ill and died in Krasnoyarsk in 1807 at the age of 43. Maria did not believe the news of his death until 1842 when Sir George Simpson gave her a detailed account of Rezanov's death. She took a vow of silence and lived in a monastery in Monterey, California until her death in 1857. I was really excited about building a ship with such rich history. The kit is of the same great quality as all Master Korabel kits. Without further ado, here are my steps: 1. As always the first step is setting up the "skeleton" framework for planks. This kit is a plank-on-bulkhead type with two layers of planks. The interesting detail in this kit is that the whole frame is split horizontally by an HDF plate into two separate parts - top and bottom. First all bottom bulkhead and the center keel were installed into the HDF plate (which has asymetric notches so you'd never be able to mix up left and right bulkheads): 2. After all bulkheads were installed, I planked the first layer of the lower portion of the hull: 3. Next the upper section of the center keel need to be assembled along with the stern: 4. What I found really interesting about this build was that counter and taffrail were not glued to the stern. They were supposed to be shaped and assembled separately. Overal the counter and taffrail turned out to be the most difficult parts of the whole build. The first layer of counter split when I bent it, so I had to carefully reglue the sheet... 5. After that I went back to building up the bulkheads for the section of the hull above the HDF plate: 6. Once all bulkheads were installed (there were a lot of them!) the deck was glued. What I found interesting was that there was no subdeck on this model. The deck is a single sheet of maple veneer that is glued directly to the bulkheads. The inner bulwark installation was a breeze thanks to the guiding pins that were inserted into holes for gun tackles: 7. After the deck and the inner bulwarks were installed the hull was faired and planking began. Again, as with other Master Korabel kits it is a lot easier to plank using hot iron technique! (https://craftysailor.com/blogs/articles/planking-with-hot-iron😞
  7. Just completed the Philadelphia Gun Boat. Took me just about 1 year at the speed I build, so I wanted to take on a simpler build, or what I call a "quick win". At least I hope it will be a "quick win". Then again it all depends on what you call "quick". This build will be one of those painfully slow logs. I work on models in my spare time, so please bare with me as this will be a slow log. I will start right out and say I am somewhat new to ship building and not an expert builder by any means. Maybe average at best but I enjoy the builds and have fun along the way. With that in mind I will start the process I have always been interested the the Secret Vessel "Morel". It seemed like such a quirky fun model - A wooden submarine ? I read a few other build logs and they builder seemed to have a lot of fun with the build so I thought I would give it a shot. Starting with the box contents,,,, Korabel must have some very precise laser cutters as some of the are really small. Seems like pretty good picture diagrams of the build In addition there is an 8 page pamphlet that contains instructions, part numbers, and depicts part locations on each wooden sheet. Seems very clear.
  8. Hello, all! Welcome to my to-be-much-abbreviated build log for the Master Korabel "cannon jolle" (gunboat) kit. I say "abbreviated" because Jim Rogers already did a fine build log for this kit, which you can see here. You can also read my initial review of the kit in the reviews section of the forum. Part of my reason for choosing this kit is to show members that yes, I do actually build ship models on occasion! Here's a couple of shots of the very early stages of construction, only a few hours' worth really. So far I have not had any issues apart from being a little confused by the instructions once or twice. This is only to be expected in instructions that are translated from Russian, so no big deal. Having patience and thinking thoroughly through the process has spared me any missteps to this point. As you can see, the hull substructure has A LOT of pieces. It all fits together very nicely but snugly and locks up tightly once glued. The finished model will really be quite small, as the hull is only about as long as my hand. That's all for now!
  9. It is time to start a new build log. This time it was a close race between brigantine Phoenix and USS Syren. Since Phoenix kit has all laser cut parts, including planks, i was curious to see how this approach fits into hard-core, make-my-own planks state of mind... So, let see... This is a wooden model kit of the 12-gun brigantine "Phoenix" - cruising ship with a sailing arsenal of the brigantine, part of Black Sea Fleet of the Russian Empire. St. Andrew's flag Russia Ship class and type Cruising ship Type of sailing equipment brigantine Organization Black Sea Fleet Commissioned since 1787 in Russia Removed from the fleet Autumn 1803 Length between perpendiculars 24.4 m Mid- width width 7.3 m Draft 2.9 m Mover sail Crew 52 Total number of guns 12 guns Service history (obtained from Internet sources). A Greek built 12-gun brigantine Phoenix became a part of the Russian Black Sea fleet in 1787. With a war with Ottoman Empire pending, large number of Greek Corsair ships were purchased to strengthen the young Russian Black Sea fleet, in many cases the Greek crews were also hired into Russian service. Such ships were officially classified as “cruising ships” in Russian navy lists. The ship’s first war was the Russian-Turkish war of 1787-1791. In the summer of 1788, the ship under the command of warrant officer Georgy Nikiforovich Benardaki, as part of Rear-Admiral's squadron Count M. I. Voinovich , went to sea in search of the enemy. On July 3, 1788, the brigantine participated in the first naval battle of the Russian-Turkish war of 1787-1791 near Fidonisi between the fleets of Russia and the Ottoman Empire. In 1789, as part of squads and squadrons, she repeatedly went to sea to search for Turkish ships. In April 1790, the ship delivered supplies and materials from Kherson to Sevastopol. In May 1790, with the squadron of Rear Admiral F. F. Ushakov, along with other cruiser ships, searched for Turkish ships, participated in the blockade of Anapa, in the battle near the Kerch Strait (was in reserve). In August 1790, in a battle near the island of Tendra, captured 10 Turkish cannon brigantine. In October, the captured Turkish ships escorted to the Dnieper Liman to Ochakov. In November, together with the cruising ship “Clement Pope of Rome” was sent to cruise to the Rumelian coast in the Varna region - m. Kaliakria. They took two Turkish vessels Sakaleva and Tumbaz (captured flooded) from Varna, then returned to Sevastopol and brought the captured vessel Sakaleva there. In April 1791, ships again went to search for Turkish ships to the shores of Tavrida, and then to the Anatolian coast - from Sinop to Constantinople. April 1 sunk two Turkish vessels. In July, the ship in the squadron F. F. Ushakov went to sea. July 31, participated in the battle at Cape Kaliakria. In 1794, the Phoenix under the command of midshipman S. A. Belisarius with a squadron was on a practical voyage in the Black Sea, and in 1795-1797 in the Black and Azov Seas. In the war with France of 1798–1800, the ship under the command of Lieutenant L. F. Morskoi was used as a transport ship. In November 1798, the ship arrived from Sevastopol to Corfu with provisions for the squadron of Vice-Admiral F. F. Ushakov. In December 1798, FF Ushakov's demands to Ibrahim Pasha delivered to Avpona to send Turkish troops to storm Corfu, blocking the fortress. At the beginning of 1799 the ship was with a squadron at Corfu, escorting transport ships with captured Frenchmen, entered Messina and arrived in Toulon. In 1801 and 1802 the brigantine sailed between the ports of the Black Sea. In 1803, the ship was under the command of Lieutenant S. S. Karachinsky with the Nikolaev Nort, dismantled after 1803 in Nikolaev. Cruise Ship Commanders: G. N. Benardaki (1788–1791); S. A. Belisarius (1794-1798); LF Morskoy (1797-1802) [2] ; S. S. Karachinskaya (1803) [3] . Literature: Chernyshev A. А. Russian sailing fleet. Directory. - M .: Military Publishing, 2002. - T. 2. - 480 p. - (Ships and vessels of the Russian fleet). - 5000 copies - ISBN 5-203-01789-1 . Veselago F. F. The General Maritime List from the base of the fleet until 1917. - SPb. : Printing house of V. Demakova, 1890. - V. IV / The reign of Catherine II. K - S. - S. 31, 398. - 712 p. - (Military history library). A. B. Shirokorad. 200 Years of the Sailing Fleet of Russia / Ed. A. B. Vasiliev. - 2nd ed. - M .: “Veche”, 2007. - 448 p. - ISBN 978-5-9533-1517-3 . Model details: Scale 1:72. Assembled dimensions are (LxWxH) 23.25" x 8.5" x 17.25" (590mm x 220mm x 440mm ). All wooden parts are laser cut to simplify assembly. Hull design compensates for material deformations. Double plank-on-bulkhead hull. Final hull planks are made of anigre veneer. Historically accurate cast cannons with Russian Imperial crests. Laser etched deck made of maple veneer. High quality pearwood blocks. Multitude of highly detailed brass parts. Sail plans and cloth for sewing the sails. Silk screen flags. Different diameters of black and tan threads for standing and running rigging. Ship stand with two nameplates, one in English and one in Russian Binnacle. Ship's boat MK0101 is included. Ship plans (four large sheets) and translated plans in English. Assembly instructions in English. Made in Russia by Master Korabel Happy modeling.
  10. Hi everyone, I'm a newbie builder who just started this addictive activity of model building during the pandemic. I've built the model shipways dory and longboat. I'm about to finish the Vanguard Fifie. I wanted to build something with more challenging rigging and I love the look of a schooner. So here I go....
  11. Welcome to my build log for the Master Korabel phoenix. I chose this kit for a number of reasons. 1. It is a high quality kit: It makes use of some good quality wood including pear. Many of the detailed parts are of the highest quality, I note partic the blocks, the yawl/longboat included in the "plus" kit, the gratings, cannons, the many PE brass parts. See below for more info. The "shortcuts": the deck is provided as one sheet, with the planking and treenailing scribed in by laser. The result is a HUGE timesaver, and produces much better results than anything I could do at 1:72. All planking is also laser cut veneer hardwood, with planks already cut to the proper length, curvature and width etc (even the longboat). Again a huge timesaver. There are also about 20 very helpful online tutorials taking you through every step of the build on youtube. Here is the first one, which also is a wonderful intro to the contents of the kit. Finally the kit is very good value. I got the "plus" version which includes the longboat, higher quality blocks and wood for about $250 AUD. Online from a Russian supplier on ebay. This is about $200. For a time poor church minister, working six days a week, with three kids with a small craft desk in his study...this seemed to be a great value kit, that I will have a fighting chance of completing within 12 months or so.
  12. Brigantine Phoenix + lifeboat Wooden ship Kit 1/72 art. MK0401P Brand Master Korabel Complete Do it Yourself assembly kit. Museum Quality. 2016 World Ship-modelling Championship Winner - Gold Medal MK0401P - Lifeboat is included. Ship wooden kit features: · All hull planking and details are laser cut · Double planking · The marked bevel on frames · A special hull design that compensates the materials deformation · Detailed photo instruction and drawings · Patterns and cloth for the sail sewing. You can also buy ready-made sails: MK0401-S Sails for Brigantine Phoenix Wooden Kit 1/72 Instructions are in Russian and English, include many pictures!
  13. Today I received the AVOS kit. It is the best version executed in pear. The wood looks fantastic and the laser cutting is So detailed. I am very excited about it. Not sure when I start with the build as I have still plenty of work on rigging my Royal Caroline but this could be escape from the ropes. It will be fun but also chalenge I guess. At this scale everything is so small!
  14. Many months ago, I ordered the Master Korabel (MK) kit, but pandemic struck and delivery was delayed. Meanwhile, Chris (Vanguard Models, VM) released his cutter as a standalone kit, so I also ordered this. Both kits arrived within a week or so of each other, so I thought that I would do a comparison build log rather than two separate logs. The log lacks a little as I somehow managed to lose some photos and couldn’t recover them. Although the VM model is to a scale of 1:64 while the MK one is 1:72, I think they are close enough to stand comparisons. I have put this build log into the 1751-1800 time slot, as is my Pegasus build, though the boats could easily belong to other periods. The two kits. The VM is on the left and has two laser cut sheets, a sheet of PE and a bundle of 1x2mm pearwood strips. Instructions need to be downloaded from the VM website. When the kit contents are compared to the instructions, it seems that something is missing. There are only 1x2mm strips in the kit yet the instructions mention 1x3mm strips in a few places. I checked this with Chris and he told me that he re-considered the 1x3mm strips as he thought that they were over-scale and replaced them with 1x2mm. The MK kit contains only seven laser cut sheets of various thicknesses - no PE. Instructions are included - a sheet of photos at various construction stages, a sheet showing all the laser cut pieces with each identified, and a double sided sheet of written instructions in English, though the terminology takes a bit of getting used to. Both kits start out the same - make up the jigs which are used until planking is complete. The keels with the VM one on top. The MK one has small slots along it through which ribs are inserted, and has small fairing blocks glued at the stem. These have laser etch marks to show how much bevelling is required before gluing in place. The two jigs, the VM one on the top. Formers are glued to the keel, and the formers in both kits are partly cut to allow removal from the shell of the boat once planking is finished. Fairing blocks are in place at the stem of the VM model. The VM kit is relatively simple, and planking starts immediately. I started by gluing in place the garboard strake, then continued as per the instructions. Tapering of the strips is required, I did this by eye, and finished up by only needing one stealer strip next to the garboard strake. The MK kit requires you to glue ribs in place first, with the first four at the bow being pre-cut to allow them to fit together. The first four glued in place. There is a horizontal former (I guess you’d call it) slotted to let the ribs be fed through it, then through the keel slots and back up the other side. A few minutes soaking allowed this to happen relatively easily. With care no breakages should occur. The next set of ribs are positioned over the formers glued to the keel, and can be carefully glued to the very bottom of the formers, but not the tops. The dark lines on the formers show where they will be broken to allow the tops to be removed later Once those ribs are in place, planking starts. All the planks in the MK kit are laser cut and spiled. Once planking is complete, the shells are carefully removed from the jigs and the formers broken away. At this time the remainder of the ribs in the MK kit are fitted. MK boat on the top. VM's cutter on the left and the MK boat on the right. As I intend to paint both boats, putty was liberally applied to the hulls to cover the places where adjacent planks didn’t quite meet (ie the gaps). The VM boat is on the left. Next will be the interiors. Cheers.
  15. I am going to build this kit with my daughter. She was really insisting on building her own wooden ship, like daddy's. Seems to even be ready that it will take a year. Will see, will see, she seems to be really interested The kit is a 1777 schooner in 1:72 scale made by russian manufacturer Master Korabel (translated as "Master Shipwright"). Laser cut planking, nice wood, seems to be very well thought through! Includes few PE sheets, very nice castings (anchors and cannons), all fittings have a good quality. The laser cutting is top notch and plywood is high quality as well. Best part - the price is $95! Despite having english text on the box, all instructions are in russian. But maybe photo manual would be enough? Here is the link to the manual, it answers most of questions about this kit construction: http://forum.master-korabel.com/mk0302f.pdf Some build logs for the ones who are curious: http://forum.modelsworld.ru/topic13151.html http://serikoffshipmodels.com/forum/6-576-1 Got a few questions "where to buy the kit". My friend bought it in Russia and gave it to me, it is a cheapest option. I also found it on ebay, the seller has a 100% rating and looks like a producer of the kit. So maybe buying it directly from the producer via ebay is better. ebay.co.uk: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mk0302p-Schooner-Polotsk-Wooden-Kit-wood-ship-1-72-model-master-korabel-/112015347120 ebay.com: http://www.ebay.com/itm/mk0302p-Schooner-Polotsk-Wooden-Kit-wood-ship-1-72-model-master-korabel-/112015347120 It is a "plus" version, so a bit more expensive. The kit I bought is a regular one - no boat and the blocks are simpler. The main goal is to enjoy the process together, learn the handcraft and generally have fun. In the end, I would be super proud of her if she will have enough stamina to finish the hull and plank it. That would be quite an achievement for 6 years old. I will try to show that kit in details, please pardon for the build quality - I am letting her to do as much as possible, not focusing too much on quality and accuracy. Step by step
  16. Jumping right into an unusual one. I saw a previous build and scooped this kit up immediately. I need a break from rigging as well.
  17. Here is a brief build log of this beautiful kit, which I began in late September - I'm now (4 December) approaching the rigging and sails, so on the home stretch. When finished, I'll put some pictures in the Gallery. There's plenty of excellent material in the Forum about this kit, so I won't go into too much detail - just to say what a marvel of miniature accuracy the laser cutting and photo etching of the parts are. Here are a few images of the early stages...
  18. This is my second build. The first was Albatros by Occre. 1. The reason I bought this ship was that I was intrigued after reading the review in MSW. It looked very small and rather difficult but I decided to live dangerously. The version I bought included the (sewn) sails but not the simulated nails on the veneer planking 2. I will organize my log by categorizing it into "phases"; these just follow my own "intuitive" sense of what groups of steps constitute a phase. Phase 1: Assembling the hull and first planking. The frames go into the main plate. I think the design here is brilliant. By telling us how much to bevel (through the use of lines drawn into the frames) and by placing asymmetrical notches in the main plate for the frames to attach, the design makes it much easier to avoid errors and the curvature is near perfect right from the start. And the resulting hull is really solid. Also I learnt from my mistakes only to use PVA glue in this phase. My small rotary Dremel was really helpful. The design of the first planking is also amazingly impressive. By building the curvature into the planks, by cutting it to the exact size, by placing notches in the frames for the first planks and finally by the use of holes for "temporary" nailing, the builders have thought through the process in a clever, thoughtful and user-friendly manner. Here are 2 pics, for this Phase, one for the framing and the second for the planking. Phase 2: Assembling the Stern frame, including upper keel frame, latrine etc. This is a very tricky phase and I made near-fatal errors at a couple of points. There are a lot of steps and one has to be really patient with dry fitting and not rushing to glue stuff without checking and rechecking. And, oh yes, numbering the pieces on both sides before cutting them from the plates is a must. And make sure you bevel on the side with the marked lines and attach the pieces with the bevel facing the direction specified. One error I made was following the direction to "wet" some pieces for 5 minutes per instruction manual before "hand curving" the piece to the desired shape. I had warned me against this but went ahead anyway. It worked for the pieces from the C plate (C1) but piece G1 ended up with a sharp curve after wetting and in addition the wood came apart in the middle (not split but the plywood just separated). On hindsight I should have either wet it for only a minute or so or used a clothe's iron. I think as the curvature is minimal one can get by without any help, just gluing it on with a clamp. But I glued the pieces and recurved it using clamps and it ended up fine. The second error was in step #24 when the pieces C1/H2 are attached to the rest of the stern assembly. Make sure you use this pic in the manual to guide you. I didn't insert it as far into the stern assembly as I should have. An hour later I found the error and luckily the glue had not fully set so I redid this step. See pic for end result. https://modelshipworld.com/clubs/?f1[0]=0 Phase 3: Adding the "ribs" i.e. the approximately 70 pieces that are glued to deck and are the basis for veneer planking etc. This phase looks simple but turned out to be trickier than I expected. As always it is a good idea to pencil in part#s before removing from the plate; also follow instructions re: penciling in lines connecting laser marks on BOTH sides of 16 of the ribs (8 on left, 8 on right--#s are B12,14,19,21,25,27,31,33)) ; you will also notice a laser engraved mark on one side of each of these 16 ribs; these are used later along with the pencilled on the same side to align ports inserts and finishing planking). On the non-engraved side, you have to place a notch where you drew a pencilled line in 8 places on each side (ie 8 on port, 8 on starboard). It is really important to look at pic #45 and realize that the notches are placed on the bow side of some of the ribs, and on the stern sides of some of the ribs. The notches are used to create holes that hold pins that then get used later (not sure how yet!) Phase 4: Deck Preparation. Again, a few major errors but with some helpful advice salvaged!....The tricky part here is installing the coamings on top and the coamings supports from below. These are used to support the deck furniture. I made the mistake of removing the inserts from the coamings; as a result when trying to sand and fit them into the holes, they would split; and I couldn't lower them to the .4 mm height below deck either as they would also split there, if they hadn't already; so I ended up patching them and gluing them flush with the deck, figuring that even if the furniture/fixture wasn't recessed below deck level, it would be ok--best I could do! Phase 5: Gluing Deck Also, on the reverse side of deck, be really really careful in gluing supports, bollards, etc to recognize that you need to be near-exact in their placement as they fit into notches in the keel below and if you are off by more than a tiny amount the deck will not be flush. Despite dry-fitting deck, I made this mistake, had to remove after gluing the deck (luckily I caught error in time) and redid everything after trimming some of the supports and the upper keel and rib supports as well. Phase 6: Gluing Inner Bulwark finishing Planking and Sanding: The Inner bulwark planking went well, with a few twists: a. I had to trim a little (<1mm) off the stern end on both side to fit the plank. I used the gunport cuts in the wood to align everything and that worked well..I was relieved that the tiny holes drilled in the prior step at each gunport all lined up with the pins set in the holes etc..Dont immerse plank in water..just dab a little wet cloth at the bow end for 10-15 seconds to help shape the plank to the hull. b. The drilling of the 3 holes in forelugs (actually just a redrilling) thru the plank split the plank in one place and I had to reglue the split part. looks ok but could have been much worse c The instructions on drilling holes #4.1 in the bulwark planking (2 on each side thru the sheaves/slits toward the stern end) are not really clear....u have to drill from the inside/deck side out thru the small slits/sheaves (<1mm bit) d...Finally, u have to sand the top of bulwark/plank using a sanding block across both sides to help even out the tops of the plank with the bulwarks Sanding is tedious. I used Durasand sticks ---worked much better than using paper directly or the cheap sticks I got thru Amazon. Not sure it is as good as it should be but I am ok with it. see pic. QUESTIONS:I decided that from time to time I'd stop and ask for advice on topics that I think of as I am building...here are the ones I have fro this week: 1. I have drill bits from 40 yrs ago.....how do I decide whether they are good or should be thrown out? 2. The engraving on sizes has worn out...how do I check the size? 3. Should I buy a set of good quality US made bits? any brand recommendations? 4. Should I buy metric or inch-based? Both? 5. In addition to #3 should I keep multiple backup cheap small bits?...looks like the pros go thru a lot of them. Phase 7: Second Planking Again, the design is so good....the strip fit near perfectly. I did not need the last plank near the keel except for a sliver on one side....the black veneer for the decorations is a nice touch. And even though I had screwed up by gluing the "counter" well before I should have, the fit between the counter and the planking was "acceptable"--not in the the class of Peta but not bad for a second build Phase 8...Waterways etc This part is tricky but is going well.....Can any one advise me on how one precisely measures the small segments where the waterways go? I can never get the piece to fit just right Thanks for the recommendations re: drill bits/calipers; will order at Amazon today. Another question: I had ordered some clamps from Amazon a while back and am quite disappointed in the quality; they are plastic and despite very little use they are either breaking or malfunctioning. Can anyone recommend a good metal+plastic combo clamp? Also when they say 1 " or 2" etc , do they mean how wide the camp can open up?
  19. Hello all, I have built balsa RC model airplanes before, but this is my first boat build. Also have an interest in scale armor and prefer 1:72, hence the fascination with tiny boats. Big thanks to "etsinko" for the similar inspirational build log and the genius who came up with the "quick find indexes" idea. Now on to the build. Kit ordered via Ebay on March 30, 2020. It probably got stuck somewhere due to the COVID-19 situation, but I was surprised last week when it finally showed up at my doorstep on May 5, 2020.
  20. Hello everybody, Some time ago I started building Master Korabel Schooner Polotsk kit but I was too lazy/busy to start a build log here. Finally I decided to go ahead and do it. I'll be posting more often until this build log catches up with the build's current state. I have been precisely following the instructions during the process so far and it has been a smooth ride. 1. I started with assembly of the ship's frame. The desing of this kit's frame is very interesting, it has a HDF plate that splits the frame horizontally. This ensures that all bulkheads and the center keel are perfectly straight and perpendicular to each other: 2. All parts have laser cut notches so it was really easy to bevel them: 3. This is how the frame looks like with all lower bulkheads installed: 4. Finally upper bulkheads and the false deck are installed. Note how the deck overhangs in the stern and how thick the timbers are (these will be cut off later):
  21. This is my first build log. I have been building wood models for about 10 years and they were always meeeh. And then I found this website and I have learned so much so thanks to all. I picked this model for a couple of reasons one it is different and unique in style, I wanted build something from a new manufacturer, well at least to me, and it is my tweener project between my just completed Syren and my start of the Essex. My Likes and dislikes of this kit: Likes: masterful lazing of parts, the preformed planking is spot on. The instruction PICTURE booklet is very helpful, the English version is just okay. Now that being said my Russian is non existent so more power to the multi-linguist designer of the instructions. Terms are different which lends to some confusion. Dislikes: the name plate is only in Russian. Evil Chuck Passaro has turned me into a line and block snob. I totally did not care for the line provided with kit. It was all shiny and all brown. I attempted to use the blocks supplied but they would all disintegrate or split in half when drilled and the hole was so small My 68 year old eyes just could not use it. What was in the box:
  22. Hi Decided to open a new blog for 3rd ongoing build-i hope no hard feelings from oldtimers as newbie hasnt finished any but allready has 3rd ongoing plus pile waiting to be started. As my Cruiser and Terror are waiting for parts i started MK Polotsk that was waiting for its time, guess that time arrived. My Polotsk is Plus version with pearwood planking. I chose MK Polotsk due to really positive feedback regarding laser cut part and instructions as it goes together like Lego cause allmost everything is laser cut and requires little or no sanding. I have to admit during the build hours i have smile on my face and im truly impressed about the engineering work behind it. Some points; 1) Hull has building template with a lot of holes. Everything fits there nicely. 2) Bulkwark have markings where to sand a after putting it together little extra sanding was needed. 3) All planking os laser cut and fits perfectly. 2nd planking is oearwood and black is ebony. 4) Deck planks (from one piece) and waterways are precut but needed adjustment to fit perfectly. 5) Level of detail is really high but it will also make the parts really fragilr and easy to break. I had an accident also where i dropped the boat during sanding and i lt fell on stern gunport bulkwark corner. A lot of glue and clamps was used to het it into near shape. Therefore i have some deciations with mesaurements in that part. Nothing that eye will really catch if you dont know to look for it. Below you can see progress. I have basicly finished planking on one side-last plank needs to be adjusted according to keel. For 2nd planking i started with pva and ca but wasnt happy with result as edges were rounded up. It came to my mind that i had alplic rapid glue from Cronwall. Didnt use that before vause it had yellow look. This time i took the risk. I have to say best glue so far. Graps quick and you have enough time for adjustments. This means you can plank as much as you want. For last i have to say that detail of the ship is super-laser has done its job! Only real issue is that it ahould be bigger. I will definitely run into problems with smaller details but will try to keep the quality up. Defenitely will order more kits from Master Korabel, probably Phoenix and others that they have on line dor future years.
  23. This project captured my imagination the minute I first saw it. It took some time to get my hands on it, as apparently Master Korabel released in Russian prior to developing and releasing and English version. I was in touch with them, who then put me in touch with Egor Tsinko at Crafty Sailor who after some weeks finally emailed me to let me know he received the kits in stock. I ordered mine immediately at a little over $100 with shipping, and received it in less than 5 days. On the whole, Im very pleased with the transaction and looking forward to the build, especially now that Im holed up in COVID quarantine and my other project is in a holding pattern as I await kit upgrades and tools from various vendors. This is marketed as a beginner kit, and on the surface appears to be aptly described. Its not a large model, and seems quite doable in a few weeks to a months time. Just looking at it, I would rate it somewhere just north of a Midwest small boat project on the complexity scale. The history of the vessel is included in the documents that came with the kit, and after a quick read are roughly as accurate/dubious as any history you typically find with a kit. Im hoping to update this log with more of my own research as time allows. There are some interesting links out there, but Ive not done anything as in-depth as I typically do for such things. This really is just a fun, quick build for me. Something to just enjoy... For those interested go here for a quick read. The kit itself is well made, and with an cursory inspection only found a few bits that I think might need replacement or upgrading. It was well packaged for the long trip from Russia, and seems overall to be a quality kit. The provided line for instance is a nylon, which Ill likely replace for sure, but otherwise the metal bits are all quality. There does seem to be a bit of a limited allotment for error, so knowing myself Ill likely need to source some additional materials to cover mistake. The instructions are really great "looking." Provided in separate English and Russian pamphlets. Ive not read through them completely, but on the surface the pictorial version and narrative format both seem thorough and well translated. Not like other foreign kits *cough* Mamoli *cough* that are mostly unintelligible in my experience. I even road tested a digital translator and found it both a novelty, but also pretty accurate. Below is a screenshot from the Google Translate app, which does a real-time overlay of the English over the Russian: In any case, I look forward to building this little kit in the next few weeks just as soon as I have more time to read and look over the instructions in a bit more detail. Now that its bedtime, Ill put my little ones to sleep with a weird tale of a bizarre 18th century Russian Carpenter and his wine barrel submarine!
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