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Found 53 results

  1. I have made a decision to purchase and build the US Brig Syren. My goal is to become a better Wood Model Ship Builder. Learn the craft, and improve my work. I started building wood ship models 4 years ago. I started by building from scratch. With any wood and materials I could scrounge up. I completed 2 Commercial Fishing Boats. However, It was a very difficult experience for me. I became disabled, and have problems with spatial interpretations, reading, writing, and hand coordination. Four of my previous attempts to build a model ended up in the wood stove. The finished Fishing Boats are rough, and somewhat resemble folk art. My next project was a scratch built replica of the Armed 14 Gun 1801 Russian Merchant Neva. It took me 6 months working all most full time to build the Neva (over 600 hours). The Neva is a little rough, and I made many mistakes. Many of the parts I built for the Neva were built out of scale. The rigging was my own invention! To my astonishment the Sitka Historical Society took the Neva and will display it in the new Russian America Museum which opens this summer. I have many pictures of building the Neva. But, I did not set up a Build Log. I was afraid that the quality of my work was poor, and worse yet, I was afraid I would abandon my attempt. After working on the Neva, I felt ready to try a official kit. For the past six months I have been working on the Caldercraft HMS Snake. I must have gotten a older kit that had been bumped around a lot. Some of the wood was in very poor condition. Cracked and chipped. Some of the metal parts had broken pieces. So I tweaked the model a little. I have been struggling with the HMS Snake. Being disabled, I am finding it hard to read the provided directions. My spatial interpretation problems makes viewing plans very difficult. I still can't rig a canon. That is why I have chosen to build the US Brig Syren. I am impressed with the directions I downloaded, and the Build Logs I have read. I am hoping to become a better builder. The Syren is scheduled to arrive in 10-14 days. Which really means 14-21 days to Sitka Alaska. I'll start this log officially, when I start unpacking. At which time, the HMS Snake will be taken out of Dry Dock and put in storage. Photo's of my past mistakes attached.
  2. Hello all, Last year, after much debate, I bought the Phantom to start me on my way in Model Shipbuilding. I don't have any experience at all in modeling, and it is my first venture. I was very pensive about taking on a solid hull, as I am really quite terrible at wood carving, but my dad, who does do Norwegian wood carving agreed to shape the hull for me. He did the Amati Drakkar, which I did the sails on for him as his one and only model ship, and it turned out great. I sent it off with him for the hull molding and now its back, so I've been reading Chuck's practicum and the logs of others. I should start out by saying that the size of this model is extremely small, so I'm nervous about how tiny its pieces are, and I have pretty low expectations for the final result but I would at least like to give it a try, and maybe learn some things along the way. My goal as a complete beginner with no background knowledge in modeling is merely to finish. Eventually, I'd like to do the Pride of Baltimore II as I both got to see her in the Philadelphia harbor and she looks much like a schooner I sailed on in college (the S/V Westward) and/or the Bluenose, both of which have a letter better scale for me. So, anyway, I've ordered a cutting mat, and I'm waiting on it. I only have the tools from the deluxe kit from Model Shipways, and its going to take a little bit to get organized. In the meantime, it looks like my Dad may have taken a bit too much off the depth of the forward area, as it is 1/8" below the -R mark but the aft deck matches perfectly. So, I guess that might impact the waterline a little, but I don't think there is much to be done at this point. The length of the hull is 9 1/2" but the plans show 9 1/4" so I'm also unsure if the plans are meant to be drawn exactly to scale, but the length does match the size of the hull template. It looks like the first thing I need to do is install the keel, stem & sternpost, and I've looked through all the other logs and Chuck's practicum. I know I'm meant to glue some pieces together before cutting out the keel, but I haven't found much else about how to do it. It seems like once it is glued on, it would be very easy to break off, and I understand people use pins and such but I don't know a resource to help a total newbie to figure this stuff out. I sort of feel like I wish I had a video of someone putting together a solid hull to help me out, but I guess I'll just do my best, right! It'll be awhile until I post any substantive work until I receive my cutting mat (which apparently won't ship until next month), but thought I would at least get my log set up! - Ginger
  3. By way of introduction, I'm a longtime sailor. All my life I've been fascinated by miniatures of - frankly - just about anything. I'm handy with tools and have a lot of patience, but I have never considered myself much of a woodworker. While I love boats and the water, I've found it more appealing of late to spend more time closer to home. Combine that with the long, gray winters of Cleveland and I'm enjoying immersion in this new hobby. I'm 51 now and haven't built a model of any kind since I was a kid. I've never built a wood one so this will really demand a new set of skills for me. I chose the Armed Virginia Sloop as my first kit for the following reasons: 1) It's suitably ambitious without being too daunting 2) Model Shipways kits were highly recommended because of the extra documentation they provide in the instruction manual 3) The boat itself is attractive. It's salty, with nice lines that in its day must have made it a great performer - fast, maneuverable and relatively easy to handle. 4) From what I can tell, this type of boat has rich history. It's very much like the boat Blackbeard seems to have first sailed - he named her Revenge - before stepping up to the larger boat in which he became most notorious, the two-masted (barkentine rig?) Queen Ann's Revenge. I suppose anyone who gets involved in this hobby has several shades of geek in him, and now you know mine. I started my build in mid-January 2014. I was hesitant to start a build log because in the earliest going I didn't feel I had anything to offer. But I've appreciated the great photos offered by BareHook's log of the same kit, and hope my own perspective will be helpful to someone else down the road. I'm a bit impatient with forums (having managed several large ones with really rancorous memberships) but I'm impressed with the good citizenry of this one. I'll make a few consecutive posts over the next few days to catch up on the build so far. My biggest concern is that I may not have the patience or desire to post a very thorough log here - but I'm going to make an honest effort.
  4. Hello, this will be my build log of the Model Shipways Phantom New York Pilot Boat. Some things about myself: I got this kit for Christmas. I am thirteen and don't have a very high budget for tools or other things. My parents are divorced, so I will have to bring my kit back and forth. Fortunately, my papa (father) has a good amount of tools at his house. I do have some tools at my mama's (mother) house which I am currently at. My work space is also a little small, but it is a small boat . I will now start counting and sorting all the pieces. Have a Merry Christmas and I'll be back!
  5. Well folks I am going to jump in here. I will dispense with posting any pictures of the box etc. I am sure that has been covered by the wealth of logs on this forum. My recent acquisition of this kit is explained elsewhere (see Dr. Per) So let me begin with my impressions and a few question for my fellow Longboat builders First of all this is a 1st class kit. Extremely well designed (what else would you expect from Chuck?) and the materials are very good. I have done a trial fit of the bulkheads and they all fit very snugly with almost no adjustment. I plan to use this as a learning tool. I want to experiment with Boxwood (which I have never used before). I also plan to use this as a platform to do treenailing (another item I have never attempted). I am especially interested in Chuck's method of using putty. Lastly Sam has inspired me to think outside the box and so I am not sure yet how I will modify the kit from the standard provided. So now some questions for those who have built this kit - The Basswood sheet that contains the bulkheads is 3/32 of an inch thick. Also on this sheet are the 2 lengths for the keel & 2 rudders. is this just extras or are we intended to glue then together to get a thickness of 3/16? The same occurs on the sheet with the Stem. I have 2 stems. Next question, On the 3/32 sheet with the stem there are 2 small pieces which I believe are the stern post. Again is the intent to glue them together to get more thickness. Finally there are 3 bow blocks on this sheet. I can figure out what to do with 2 bow blocks but is the 3rd one extra? Last question (for now) - I see many using brass rods to mount the longboat. In particular concentric brass rods. can you tell me where you got these? this method looks quite nice. A final comment, since Jeff is backed up supplying all of us builders with wood. This log may move a bit sow for the next couple of months. I started it now because this is a great opportunity to gather info from those who have gone before me. I also felt this was the best way to ask questions without cluttering someone else's build. PS you should all hound Dr. Per to start his build log here too. he has agreed to do a group build with me. My local club is meeting at my house today. I am going to suggest that this would be a great club build.
  6. Hello everyone, this is my third kit build and my first build-log. I wanted to build the excellent cheerful semi-scratch cutter designed by Chuck Passaro next but decided to build this one first cause it was a gift from my wife last christmas and she keeps asking me when I will begin building it. So construction has begun with little one-year delay. The kit itself seems to be of good quality but I may replace some wood with boxwood and some cast-parts. First thing I did was to build a rack to put the model on during the construction. Then I carefully released the bulkheads to dry-fit on the keel.
  7. Hi everyone, I just finished building the Greyhound by Corel at 1:100 scale. I have placed a few pics of it in the Gallery. I just started my new build of the Charles Morgan and will post pics as I go! I purchased the kit from Model Expo and have been a long time customer of theirs. After inventory of everything in the box I was short 30 pieces of 1/16 X 3/32 X 24" and short 2 pieces of 1/16 X 1/4 X 24". I contacted Frank at Model Expo and these were sent out ASAP no problems! They do indeed stand behind their product. This is one reason I like getting things from them if they have what I'm looking for. The Keel, stem and stern post went together well and were all very straight. I tried something different this time and won't know how well it will work or how clean it will look until I start planking the hull. I took the center keel before gluing on the false keel, stem and stern pieces and after marking the bearding line used my Dremel tool sander instead of chisel. Then I glued the remaining flat surface to the full-size stem, false keel and stern pieces. I'd appreciate any input if others have done this and if it worked well for you. I then pre-shaped and dry fitted the bulkheads. Once square they were glued in place and I then did some additional bevel cutting and sanding. I suspect there will be some tweaking along the way. I then cut and installed the stern stems. Make sure you align the posts and watch the height making sure not to cut them too short. I then installed the Planksheer and even though I was careful I managed to break (several times) the part going around the bow. I then installed the stanchions and it's very important to make sure they are aligned and most important that when you install the mainrail (again I managed to break this very thin piece several times) they leave enough overhang so that it will accommodate the batten planks. I looked at a few other build logs at this point and of interest, after the hull was planked it was eventually sanded smooth. However, one would then have to add a fashion piece that is usually painted white along the outside of the plank sheer and I suppose main rail. This was troubling for me and I had to cut off all stanchions and realign to accommodate the stepped look. I really don't know if that was the correct thing to do or take the easy way out, sand the whole thing smooth and add the extra piece later??? Now, currently I'm struggling with the stanchions on the bow that go from the main rail down to the filler block. And, at the same time keep the exterior "future" planking aligned with the balance of other stepped planking. The problem is that the interior bow has this ceiling and waterway planks that are supposed to be sweeping up and smooth (just at the bow). I've taken this apart a few times and naturally busted up the plank sheer and main rail several times. I look at the blueprint sheets everything lines up but I just don't have the sweeping angle it needs. I'll keep messing with this until I get it! Meantime any advice is always welcome. Also, I'm thinking of getting a ropewalk jig. Is Model Expos as cheap as it looks? I'm also thinking of ordering a few different chemicals from Jax to oxidize the copper plates before I install them. I was then thinking of putting a sealer on them before handling and installing? I really like the way the Model Shipways picture on their kit looks. Frank said the guy that built it actually used paper! you could use a thick paper and still roll over it with the ponce wheel to get the rivet effect. But, I'll use the copper and will sample a bunch of different shades and methods. Do I want more realistic or what appeals to "me"!!!
  8. Here's to a new log! I am starting the Kate Cory now, a solid hull 1:64 scale model from Model Shipways. The hull came in excellent shape with only minor re-shaping to get down to the final measure. The hardest part was the bulwark thinning, which they recommend a chisel to carve down. I used a Dremel Tool.... Wear a mask if you try this, as basswood in the lungs is a bit unhealthy ;-) The sterm of the ship needed the most wood removal and reshaping. That also prompted me to use a Dremel sanding drum, which worked swiftly. With some hand sanding afterwards, the whole thing is coming along nicely. I used a smaller chisel to square off the deck levels and trim the bulwarks closer to the deck. Next I am going to work on the deck bevel and do some fine sanding to the exterior. I want to add a shiny coat of varnish or something to make the coppered portion stick better... raw wood is a no-go for self adhesive copper tapes it turns out, as a simple experiment shows that smooth wood just lets the tape peel off. Testing is good. ~johnb
  9. Greetings All!! This is actually my second undertaking. My first was the Phantom which I will be putting up shortly. This was a Christmas Present from my lovely wife, and as such had to cut ahead in the Ship queue. We start with the traditional unboxing. We begin with the documentation which consists of one manual, a parts manifest, 2 large plan sheets and an errata sheet. The model is kind of a hybrid POF/POB so the contents consist primarily of strip stock, raw brass, and some laser cut sheets as well as various white cast parts which appear at first glance to be of decent quality and useable as is. Finally the normal supply of blocks, string and normal ship fittings. The instructions are not too too bad. It is quite informative with history anecdotes as well as examples of how the real ship is built. The trouble is these are intermingled with instructions on how to build them in the kit and they tend to get muddled at some points. I like the information however, being a novice, I found it confusing at points. To kick off the build a template needs to be attached to a build board which will be used to set up the build molds. I just grabbed an old particle board shelf as the build board and using a glue stick attached the template. I think next time I will use rubber cement to make it semi-permanent because at the moment I am having issues getting the template off of the board - and would like to reuse it as it is a very nice build board =). Once the template is down it is just a matter of attaching the laser cut build molds to the build board using the template as a guide. I added some spars at the base to stabilize the molds and give them some reinforcement. Once all of the molds were in place and proven square it was time to attach the keelson and chine logs. This was very straight-forward, no muss no fuss. The next part is construction of the hull shell itself. The side planks are a single piece of wood cut to follow the chine logs, bent to shape and attached stem and stern. Remember, do NOT glue them to the molds - that would be very very bad. If you should by accident you can carefully pop them off when it is time to separate the shell. *You can, to avoid getting glue stuck to the molds place some wax over them. Once you get the sides in place, time to lay the planks along the bottom of the hull. Again, pretty straight-forward. Cut and place the planks up to the chunk, place the chunks, sand and shape and walla! One Willie Bennett hull shell!! Sand, sand, sand and sand!! I went ahead and primed mine prior to removing it from the molds but there is no requirement to do so, I just wanted to be sure my hull was as finished as possible before flipping it over. Once the shell is complete and removed from the build molds it is decision time!! The next step is the deck framing. There are two ways given to go about it, the first is a basic framing and the second is a "realistic" framing. The main reason to do the second is if you want to build the ship as close to the real thing and/or plan to have it opened up or have some of the interior visible. If the latter is not the case, the basic framing is more than adequate as it just needs to support the decking. I opted to do the realistic framing including the blocking, more so for the experience than anything else. I did not however detail the bunk areas or the internals of the different wells since the ship will be in a display case and not easily accessible to move and scrutinize close enough to see the detail. The next four pics are of the framing, the first pic is actually partial framing prior to deciding which way to go. At that point I could have gone either way. The last three are the framing completed and ready for the plankshears! The BIGGEST tip I can give at this point, regardless of which style you decide to do - make sure you mark and cut the notches in the clamps which hold the deck beams PRIOR to attaching them to the hull. It is doable after they are attached, but much much easier to do after the fact - so I found out =( From here, I had to break. I was working on the plank shears trying the cuts to get a nice curve and well - let us just say I have some more practice needed! I chewed up a fair amount of wood trying to get them right so had to replace the wood. To keep working I did some work on another kit while waiting to be able to pick up the wood at which point will return to the Willie. that will be tomorrow =) Thank you for popping in!! And as always - whatever you do, and however you do it... enjoy it!! -Adam
  10. Hi All, Welcome to the start of my build log of the USF Confederacy from Model Ship Shipways as designed by Chuck Passaro. Her full history has been summarized in Chuck’s fabulously detailed instructions which can be downloaded from the Model Shipways site. Suffice it to say here that the Confederacy was an unlucky ship, surviving some actions, hurricanes and collisions before being captured by HMS Roebuck and Orpheus in April 1781 and taken into the British Navy as HMS Confederate. However, while only 2 years old, inspections showed a great deal of rot, probably due to the use of green timber during her construction. She was then broken up, but her lines were at least preserved by the British Admirality. Below is a Revolutionary painting of the Confederacy from the Navy Art Gallery at the Washington Navy Yard. My impressions of the kit are very favorable. The kit arrived very well packaged with all items present. I’ve already mentioned the great instructions, but the plan sheets are also extremely clear. All the wooden parts are laser cut and the etched brass and cast metal parts are nicely detailed. I am perhaps fortunate as all the more fragile parts are intact, like the figurehead and ships wheels. Images of kit contents and parts are below. The Confederacy’s rigging plan has not survived, but I do plan to fully rig her following the plans by Crothers. The exception are the belaying points as Chuck has kindly warned me the Crothers belaying plan is incorrect. So, following his advice, I will be working out the belaying points using other contempory frigates as a guide. This will be a long build and all advice and help will be most appreciated. I will certainly be referencing all the other great Confederacy build logs to help me along the way so my thanks in advance here! My dream for this build is to try and bring the Navy Art Gallery painting to life! I hope you find some time to stop by and enjoy this voyage with me! Cheers, Nigel.
  11. So with the rebirth of the site I have a new motivation to post my build log instead of just stalking everyone else's. I moved on to wood ships after branching out from plastic ones and got hooked. Since then Ive build the Phantom and the MS Mayflower. The Mayflower as well as Chuck's amazing practicum helped me learn a lot of techniques. And that brings us to...the Niagara! Im mostly done the prerigging stuff and am looking forward to making all the masts. I decided to make the cannon/carronades run out but ropes stored. I also decided to spend half a millennium making all the tackle for the guns. Another coat of paint is needed to touch up the oops and things but I'll be saving that for last as smudges and things will undoubtedly happen. And enough words...on to the pictures! My amazing ship holding device.... And heres where I am now, making all the parts for the chainplates. And in other news im still terrible at soldering. Blacken-it is my new best friend I feel like im not uploading these images correctly...any tips of how to make them smaller until you click to expand them would be appreciated.
  12. Hello, I am interested in buying the model shipways Willie L. Bennett kit and was just wondering how the instructions are that come with it. I took a look at them on the website but wasn't sure as to how well it walks you through the build. This will be my second build and first POB build so I just want to know if this will be a good kit to start POB with. Any comments, opinions, guidance would be appreciated. Thanks,
  13. Edit: Adding an index Section 1 - Pre-planking work. Beginning the bulkheads Shimming the bulkheads Cutting the Rabbet Reinforcing the bulkheads Fairing bulkhead tops and placing sub-decks Shimming bulkhead extensions and fairing Stern building issues Stern construction Knights heads and first planks Waterways and transom work Section 2 - First planking and surrounding work. Stern windows and planking Outer bulwark planking Lower planking part 1 Side-bar - Reno trip Lower planking part 2 Lower planking part 3 Lower planking part 4 Section 3 - Wales and inner bulwarks Wales part 1 Wales part 2 and spirketing plank 1 Spirketing plank 2 Inner bulwarks The black strake & inner bulwarks painting Scuppers and inner bulwarks painting Outer bulwarks 2nd planking and more painting Outer bulwarks 2nd planking and Cap Rail Stern cap rail and planking Section 4 - Outer painting and 2nd planking below wales. Bulwark painting Lower planking part 1 Lower planking part 2 Lower planking part 3 Lower planking part 4 Lower planking part 5 Lower planking part 6 Planking time-lapse video Lower planking completion Sweep ports part 1 Sweep ports part 2 Section 5 - Deck & furniture Main hatch and scuttle port Companionway Deck planking begins Remaking the galley hatch Deck planking continued Deck planking complete - tree nailing Planking the poop deck Guns! Rudder Rigging the Cannons - beginning Ships wheel Rigging the Cannons - continued Rigging the Cannons - rope coils Stropping a single block Making the Catheads Elm tree pumps Ladders and Binnacle Swivel gun posts and channels Chain plates & dead-eyes Section 6 - Masts & Standing Rigging Bowsprit sheaves & main mast construction Jib boom & Top mast Gaff, boom & yards Swivel Gun yoke jig Swivel Gun soldering - mount, yoke, handles. Main mast standing rigging begins Shroud Lanyards Mounting the Bowsprit Bobstay & Forestay Naming Day Section 7 - Running Rigging Beginning the running rigging Sidebar - San Diego Festival of Sail trip (link to other thread) Running rigging completed Rope coils Anchor buoys End of the line ------------------------------ Beginning of build log: Just starting up the log with what appears to be the traditional 'unboxing' post. This was actually done on September 6th, but I did not see any point in opening a build log while I was still working on the Carmen, as I'm not going to attempt to do multiple builds at once yet (no room, even if I wanted to). I took inventory using the parts list included, and everything seems to be ship-shape. I will likely not actually begin working on this until the weekend, as I've got an idea for a display stand for the Carmen to take to my office (my not at home office), and now that I'm done building the Carmen, I want to read through the instructions and some build logs for the AVS before I begin. Until then, here are the unboxing photo's.
  14. So this will be my 3rd build and my first model shipways kit. Up front I am impressed with the supplied kit. After inventory the any issue was some broken or bent cannons. I have read extensively about model shipways customer service so we will see how that works out. Oh yea and just to let everyone know up front I am an absolute F.U.N.G. So most of the proper terms for the parts of the ship are beyond me, but I am learning. Makes me wish I had payed a little more attention about navel history during boot camp. So here we go !
  15. Static: Rattlesnake 1780 (Model Shipways MS2028) 1:64 Note: The first section of this log is a repost originally created in 2012 First, I would like to thank all of those who have taken the time to create or re-create thier logs on Model Ship World. Your efforts have been invaluable to me and I am sure will be to many others. Thank You All As for my story: I purchased the Model Shipways Rattlesnake kit around five years ago from a local hobby store. After assembling the false keel, I realized the magnitude of this endeavor and decided it best postponed for another day. The box sat on my shelf until recently when I found the Model Ship World forums. This is where I discovered the build logs, like great sagas, some taking years to complete, they inspired me, renewing my interest in ship modeling and giving me the confidence to restart this project. Kit Review/Preview: According to the manufacturers website http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS2028 The kit is an Intermediate Level build. Originally, a solid hull kit, it was converted to plank on bulkhead with updated instructions in 1994 by Ben Lankford. The rigging, hull details, and original kit were done in 1963 by George F. Campbell based on Admiralty draughts and an earlier reconstruction published by Howard L Chapelle. The manual is informative and judging by comments posted regarding other manufacturer’s attempts, seems to be above average. It is not however, as clear as some of the other manuals provided by this same manufacturer. All of instructions for the Model Shipways kits sold on the Model Expo site are available for download at no cost. As are some very helpful practicums. These were very useful to me, either clarifying the steps in the manual, or elaborating on tasks in which I have no experience. The parts in the kit are, again to my untrained eye seem to be of good quality. The wood contained in the kit is primarily Basswood and this I am sure is to maintain an affordable initial cost, allowing the builder to add wood upgrades at his own expense, and choosing. Castings seem OK, only requiring minimum cleanup, and a generous supply of additional hardware is included. Two double-sided sheets of plans round out the kit. I picked up some inexpensive wood for the optional second planking and recently purchased a few additional lengths of Cherry plus a sheet of Walnut. Overall, I am very pleased with the product Model Shipways provides. I would like this log to be as open as possible. I will attempt to post pictures, comments, questions, and any information I discover on the way as I have seen others do. I will also try to accommodate any request for additional pictures or responses so please feel free to ask. My goal is to create an atmosphere encouraging feedback, especially those pertaining to any corrections/improvements regarding the methods needed to complete this model. I enjoy writing so I will apologize for my wordiness from the start. My main priority however is to just have fun and enjoy the hobby and this blog. Comments, criticisms, or suggestions, are always welcome and appreciated! Please note that I have very little or no experience in model shipbuilding. I have built some RC aircraft, rockets, and if I can use the phrase “a boatload” of plastic.
  16. Good Evening. As I'm allowing my patience to recover to fix the Sharpie, I decided to pull out the next project for initial prep work. Civil War Picket Boat that I picked up from MSW. Taking inventory of the parts, I don't immediately see anything I want to replace. This will be my first boat that I actually plank and I'm looking forward to assembling the engine, and learning more about how this vessel. Extra's planned. Inspired by Tim I.'s build, I really liked the crates of ammunition and food supplies - I'll be attempting to reproduce it. Historical photos show a flag off a pole at the stern Also inspired by Tim's build, I picked up some simulated coal. Adding a Scoop for the Coal Planned Modeling Skills to be Improved planking to the pattern provided flag making achieving a straight frame Finishing metal fittings Here are pictures of the parts/plans provided as what build thread be started without it. Spent tonight inventorying - Want to review the directions to avoid unexpected surprises.
  17. Hello! Happy to be posting my first build log. I've been working on this ship for awhile now. i originally started it back in February 2014, but coppering the hull got a bit tedious so I didn't work on it for awhile. Recently I started back up on it though and have been making a lot of progress. Anyways, enough background, on to the build. First up, I started shaping the hull. I'll be honest I'm not a huge fan of the solid hull. The sanding wasn't that enjoyable for me, but it went pretty quick so wasn't a big deal. I ended up not having a ton of pictures from this part before I started on coppering the hull.
  18. Hey everyone, My name is Max and I am in the middle of my first attempt at a Model Shipways kit, the Phantom. I had a build log going on MSW 1.0 but that is gone now so I will pick up where I left off. I have more or less been following Chuck's practicum but I strayed from it some and got some ideas from others who had build logs of this kit before. I haven't worked on this kit much in the past few months because of college and my wife and I recently bought our first home and I have been doing projects around the house, ect... Anyways, I have a decent setup started in my garage and this will probably be a much better place to build than in our last house we were renting because i was building in our guest bedroom/wife's sewing room/my hobby room and it wasn't ideal to say the least lol. Pictures to come... I will edit this post and add pictures as soon as I find a photo editing software that will allow me to reduce the size of the photos since we can only upload 2mb files. Anyone remember the name off the software that was recommended on MSW 1.0? If so, do you have the link to download it? Thanks in advance! I am super excited to get going on this build again, it has been too long and I really enjoyed building her up until this point. Until next time, -Max
  19. Hi, my name is Rod Chima. I started building the Model Shipways Syren back on Jan. 2, 2013, and started posting a Model Ship World build log about a month later. I was learning so much by reading other build logs, and I hoped that my postings might help someone else. It sure was disappointing to lose all that information with the recent hard drive crash, but I did find my posts cached on Google and will try to recreate them here. I am a rocket scientist recently retired from NASA Glenn Research Center in Cleveland, Ohio. If you are interested in computational fluid dynamics you can check out my work web site, http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/5810/rvc/ I have built stick and tissue model airplanes since I was 8 years old, and a few ship models when I was in high school and college. But the ship models were SO much work that I swore that I would never build another. Then I went to a hobby show at the Cleveland International Exposition Center and saw Chuck's magnificent Syren kit. The guys from Model Expo made me an offer that I couldn't refuse, and here I am. I am about 90 hours (over 1 month) into the kit, and have the hull and deck planked. More on that soon, but first some previous builds. I wish I could take credit for this model, but it was built by my Grandfather in 1933. I still have his original plans and construction article from Popular Science. I did some major restoration work on the model when I inherited it about 10 years ago. I received the Flying Fish kit by Model Shipways as a high school graduation gift in 1969, and I was working on it when Neil Armstrong walked on the moon. It got pretty banged up over the years, so last summer I made some repairs and replaced most of the running rigging. I also built the display case shown in the photo. It is my own design and is built from walnut and plexiglass. My girlfriend went to New England in 1970 and brought me this kit of the brig Hurricane Bird by Hobbies at Home. It must have been the right gift because we've been married for 38 years. The plans for this Roman bireme ship by Mantua Models clearly shows an open stonework castle on the deck. I could never figure out why you would want one there, but I dutifully followed the plans. This was the only planked hull that I had made before I planked the Syren.
  20. I am new to the Model Shipways community, and I suspect I am one of your younger members (born 1988 - anyone younger?). I grew up on an island in Maine and was always around boats, and my whole life I have been doing something boat-related in one way or another. The neighborhood kids had tree houses; I had a rowboat in the yard that my dad had turned into a kid-sized lobster boat. When I was growing up I made many simple boats from kits (the kind with a solid hull and like ten simple blocks that you glued on for detail). I had a Titanic phase some time before middle school: plastic models, paper models, and high-pitched lectures about waterproof compartments and buckling steel to anyone who would listen. In the last few years, I made two small plank-on-frame boats from kits, the first with my dad and the second on my own, after a crash course in plank bending from a neighbor who I wouldn’t be surprised to find on this forum. Last year my parents called me from a weekend getaway in a small town and said they had found the Rattlesnake kit, on sale, in a hobby store, and wanted to know if I would like it for my birthday. I thought it would be fun to get back into model ship building. At the time, my main hobby was an iPad app I was writing in my spare time, but that’s also partly my job, and it was a bit of a programming overload, and I wanted to do something in the real world for a change. I built my last models when I lived with my parents, so I had fun setting up a work bench in my apartment and getting new tools. I started with more or less nothing, and have bought tools only when I actually needed them. I didn’t know about the Model Ship World forums when I started my build. I wanted to document my progress, so I set up a tumblr account for this and other projects that I work on. I only found my way here when I started googling around with questions about this particular model, and discovered at least two other build logs for the same exact model. What an amazing resource! The first bunch of posts will be reposts of the same photos from tumblr, though I may embellish the text with technical details better suited for my fellow pintsize shipwrights. It seems customary to start with the box, so I will as well, along with a sneak peek of my current progress: I look forward to interacting with and learning from all of you as my build progresses. I welcome your feedback and questions, and I will have many questions of my own.
  21. Started my 1st ship kit this weekend. The Sultana in 1:64 scale by Model Shipways. This a solid hull kit, so I had some sanding and carving to do so that the supplied templates fit properly. The carving was required on both the inside and outside of the bulwarks to achieve the correct scale thickness. At an early stage, my "carving" turned into something more akin to gouging, so I turned to my xacto knife with a #11 blade and actually found it easier than using my chisels, which I couldn't seem to get a sharp edge on, even after minutes on the honing stone. Note the repaired area in the front (sorry- still don't know my nautical terms)...I had already sanded the outside of the hull up to my stopping point that I had marked, THEN I started carving the inside of the bulwarks to the required thickness. That is when I cracked the thin basswood in a couple of places. At least the breaks were clean, so I salvaged the pieced, used thin super glue, and carefully and quickly put them back in place. I dared not try sanding the area yet, but it will be my next step now that the glue has had a day to dry. Hopefully, my damage control will not show up later, as this hull will be painted.
  22. Greetings all....I'm back!!! Model Shipways Kit (modified) Scale: 1:24 1/2”=1’ Circa: August-October 1776 Happy Moon Day!!! I am starting my build log on the 45th Anniversary of the Moon Landing....just because. I don't actually plan on building until the first or second week in August, so I can do some summer stuff. I will be doing some pre-build planning and I may add my thoughts here. I wanted to get started early so that my small but dedicated band of followers can find a seat. Background. This will be the SECOND time I built PHILDELPHIA. The first time I did so as a scratch build based on the Model Shipways plans. I will refrain from going into why I chose PHILADELPHIA and save some bandwidth by giving you the link to my scratch build (if I can figure out how to do it). Chux scratch Philly. It was a fun build, but I had some challenges. I have found that there was an additional sheet that comes with the model that does NOT come when you buy the plans separately. This includes all the templates for bulkheads and other pieces parts. Thanks alot Model Expo for not including that!!! At any rate, it was an interesting build. I entered it into the County Fair Design in Wood Exhibit (Scale model class) and actually got an offer to buy it. By then, I was too attached to it to sell. I offered to make a model from the kit, with boxwood and holly replacing the planking and primary exterior wood, as in the scratch. I figured with the kit as a guide and my experience from the previous build, I could build it much faster and I could correct some problems...both with my build and what I perceived to be with the plans. It also gives me an opportunity to work in a larger scale. Some of those corners got really tight at 1/4" scale. History. Again, so save bandwidth, I direct you to Philly History. PHILADELPHIA and the history behind it is fascinating. It (and its associated fleet, not to mention many of its adversaries) was built in a few weeks. It 'lived' only a few months. IIRC only PHILADELPHIA and ROYAL SAVAGE were the only two ships sunk during the battle, but within a week or two of the battle the entire American fleet was sunk, scuttled or captured-but it was considered a strategic American victory. A century and a half or so later, it was discovered, raised and preserved. It exists today, on display in the Smithsonian Institution. NOW your interest is piqued, eh. I think you REALLY want to go to Philly History and read more about it. Other suggested readings include: The Gunboat Philadelphia and the Defense of Lake Champlain in 1776. by Lundeberg, Philip K. The Gondola Philadelphia and the Battle of Lake Champlain. by Bratten, John R. Benedict Arnold's Navy, by Nelson, James L.
  23. Greetings from the illustrious maritime state of Arkansas. I started work on the Revenue Cutter Harriet Lane in March, 2012. The following information is courtesy of the US Coast Guard: The Revenue Cutter Harriet Lane, built for the Treasury Department by William H. Webb, was launched in New York City in November 1857 and was named for the niece of lifelong bachelor United States President James Buchanan. The Harriet Lane served as a revenue cutter until temporarily transferred to the Navy late in 1858. Her new assignment took her to Paraguay with a squadron ordered to support the discussions of U.S. Special Commissioner James B. Bowlin with Dictator Carlos Antonio Lopez concerning reparations for damages incurred during an unprovoked attack on WATERWITCH by the Paraguayan forces 1 February 1855. This display of sea power quickly won the United States a prompt and respectful hearing which 4 years of diplomacy had failed to obtain. In his report Flag Officer W. B. Shubrick singled out Harriet Lane for special commendation on the invaluable service she rendered in extricating his other ships repeatedly running aground in the treacherous waters of the Parana River. Returning to the United States, Harriet Lane resumed her former duties as a revenue cutter. In September 1860 she embarked Edward Albert, the Prince of Wales, the first member of the British Royal Family to visit the United States, for passage to Mount Vernon where he planted a tree and placed a wreath on the tomb of George Washington. Harriet Lane again transferred to the Navy 30 March 1861 for service in the expedition sent to Charleston Harbor, S.C., to supply the Fort Sumter garrison. She departed New York 8 April and arrived off Charleston 11 April. The next day she fired a shot across the bow of NASHVILLE when that merchantman appeared with no colors flying. NASHVILLE avoided further attack by promptly hoisting the United States ensign, but 2 days later raised the Palmetto flag to begin her career as one of the most elusive Confederate privateers. When Major Anderson surrendered Fort Sumpter 13 April, Harriet Lane withdrew with her sister ships. Her next important service came the following summer when a task force was sent against Fort Clark and Fort Hatteras on the outer banks of North Carolina to check blockade running in the area, The ships sortied from Hampton Roads 26 August 1861 for this first important combined amphibious operation of the war. The next morning Harriet Lane, MONTICELLO, and PAWNEE slipped close inshore to provide direct support to the landings while heavier ships pounded the forts from deeper water. Harriet Lane ran aground while attempting to enter Pamlico Sound through Hatteras Inlet 29 August and suffered severe damage while fast on the shoal. She was refloated at the cost of her armament, rigging, stores, provisions, and everything else on board which could be heaved over the side to lighten ship. Temporary repairs completed 5 September, she proceeded to Hampton Roads, arriving 8 September 1861. Harriet Lane sailed 10 February 1862 to join Comdr. D. D. Porter's Mortar Flotilla at Key West, where units were assembling for an attack on Confederate forts In the Mississippi River Delta below New Orleans. Comdr. Porter embarked at Washington. During her passage to Hampton Roads, Harriet Lane was taken under fire by the Confederate battery at Shipping Point, Va., which inflicted such damage to her port wheel that her departure for Key West was delayed another 2 days. On 24 February, she captured the Confederate schooner JOANNA WARD off Florida. Following blockade duty in Mobile Bay, Harriet Lane sailed for Galveston, Tex., which she bombarded and captured with the aid of WESTFIELD, OSASCO, CLIFTON, and HENRY JAMES, 3 October 1862. She was in Galveston Harbor when the Confederates retook that base 1 January 1863 ; and, after a bitter contest in which her captain, Comdr. J. M. Wainwright and executive officer, Lt. Comdr. Edward Lea, were killed, she fell into Southern hands. After serving the Confederate Army's Marine Department of Texas, she was sold to T. W. House, who converted her into a blockade runner named LAVINIA. She finally escaped Galveston 30 April 1864 and sailed to Havana, where she was interred. In 1867, following the war, she was recovered from Cuba and was converted to a bark rig and renamed ELLIOTT RICHIE. She was abandoned off Pernambuco, Brazil, 13 May 1884. Harriet Lane measured 270 feet long, 22 feet wide and 12 feet from the bottom of the hull to the main deck. Her propulsion was a double-right-angled marine engine with two side paddles, supported by two masts; the entire ship was sheathed and fastened with copper. From stern to bow, the captain's cabin and stateroom sat above an aft magazine, forward of which was a second magazine with the officer quarters above. Forward of this, in the midships was the engine machinery and coal supply, and beyond this the quarters and galley for the non-commissioned ranks which sat above a third magazine.
  24. Model Shipways Bluenose Build Log 10-02-14 Hello everyone! Once again wanted to say thanks for the very warm greetings and overall wonderful site! I've seen numerous comments about doing a build log for help and encouragement, and that seems like a great idea, so here we go! :-) This is my first attempt with building a wooden ship model. With what research I have done, this seems like as good a choice as any. Aside from the ship generally being a pleasing design (at least in my eye! LOL!) there is also a wealth of resources and information available. The original Bluenose was built just a few years before my parents were born, and with the recent rebuilding and rechristening of the Bluenose II, it certainly is a subject that is very current. The ship does hold historical significance, and I suspect it has had a MAJOR influence on modern yacht racing. The reasons in particular for going with the Model Shipways version is: 1. Cost. Model Expo is currently offering a 40% discount on the kit (Code EM40), and the price dropped by $20 this morning, so I was able to purchase the model for $104, and had enough left over for the paints and a fresh set of chisels. 2. Scale. The fact that this model is in 1:64 (S-Scale) is a nice size to work with, and should make obtaining accessories like crew members not too difficult. 3. Wealth of build information. Gary Brinker over on YouTube (That is his channel name BTW) is doing a detailed build log of his model, and thus far has done a wonderful job showing both his progress and the issues with this kit. Also there are any number of other build logs, practicums, and pictures to work with. 4. Instructions and plans. Again from the comments I have read elsewhere, this model seems to be the best of the bunch in this regard. For a first time out, my opinion is this would be critical. 5. Accuracy. I actually was looking at the Latina version of the Bluenose II initially, and while it does make a nice looking model (especially with all the brass parts!), I have to agree that it has quite a few differences from the actual Bluenose II. Can't speak for the Billings kit in that regard, but again considering the MS version cost less than half, it made the choice there pretty obvious. So where am I at this point? OK, the kit has been ordered as of this morning, and I should have all the tools necessary for the build (Although I thought it would be a good idea to get a fresh set of chisels while I was at it), so all I need now is glue! LOL! Otherwise I have been gathering resources and looking through them, and thinking ahead on how I want to approach this project. Looking at the way the hull goes together, it doesn't look radically different from building up a wing for an R/C airplane (which I have done a few times). Admittedly the planking aspect has me a little intimidated, but hopefully it's just a matter of working slowly and carefully. :-) Anyway, here are the resources I have been able to find online: First, the MS Bluenose instruction manual http://www.historicships.com/TALLSHIPS/Model%20Shipways/Bluenose%20MS2130/Bluenose%20ms2130%20Manual.pdf Gene Bodnar's practicum on modeling the Bluenose I http://modelshipbuilder.com/e107_images/custom/msbimages/eisnor/bn-1-4/Bluenose%20Practicum%20Standard.pdf Another series of articles on modeling the Bluenose. http://modelboatyard.com/Bluenose2_Articles/ Robert E. Hunt's practicum... This only goes as far as the bulkhead assembly. Obviously he's looking for the modeler to purchase the rest of the document. Still a lot of useful information here! http://www.lauckstreetshipyard.com/PDF/bluenose_sample.pdf Photo journal of the actual construction of the Bluenose II. While I realize that there are differences between that and the original craft, the BN II was intended to be a reproduction, and I'm ASSUMING that the base construction/planking is going to remain essentially the same. http://www.mdphoto.ca/photos--mark-doucette.html Boating 101... useful for learning some of the basic parts of the ship! http://fas.org/man/dod-101/sys/ship/beginner.htm I've also managed to obtain copies of the following books: 1. Rigging Period Ship Models - Lannart Petersson 2. Planking Model Ships - Richard Mansir 3. Ship Modeling Simplified - F. Mastini 4. Ship Modeling Hints and Tips - Jason Craine 5. The Ship Model Builders Assistant - Charles G. Davis Finally Gary Brinker's YouTube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPSQwZrSrxoIlsdUGhSipeA So that's about where things stand. All I can do now is wait for the kit to arrive!
  25. Model Shipways Typical Ship’s Boat* (SMALL) *As labelled on the kit. On the website it’s called: Plank-on-Frame Lifeboat Kit I am building the Mamoli 1:64 scale 1781 American Privateer Rattlesnake with the help of Robert Hunt’s Practicum. In the process of building the Rattlesnake, I had to make the ship’s boat. The Mamoli kit provided the model builder with a pre-cut wooden shell for the hull from which the builder could then create a completed model (which the Practicum addresses). If I had built the Model Shipways’ version of the Rattlesnake, I would have had to make the ship’s boat “bread and butter” style. Somehow neither option satisfied me. So I decided to go all out and build a ship’s boat from the keel up or as the case turn out, from the keel down. Model Shipways makes 5 sizes of kits; I purchased the Typical Ship Boat No. MS0108, a Plank-on-Frame construction kit (POF). Model No.: Size MS0105 3-3/16'' (81mm) MS0106 3-3/4'' (95mm) MS0107 4-1/4'' (108mm) MS0108 4-3/4'' (122mm) MS0109 5-3/16'' (135mm) This is my first POF as well as my first small boat build, so this will be all new territory for me. Not only that, I won’t have the Practicum to hold my hand until the hull is built. The kit is fairly simple, one laser cut sheet provided the keel, the bow bulkhead, the transom, and the frames to create the bot’s ribs. A bunch of stock wood pieces which I believe to be Basswood as it is fairly soft was also included. The instructions are straight forward but not overly detailed so a lot of the skills and nuances of model building must be brought with the builder. Unfortunately the resolution of the photo images in the instructions is low and therefore hard to see detail.