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  1. Hello! so being new to the ship world and to modeling them, I thought the Polaris build from Occre was a completely random kit specifically designed to help you into the world of wooden models. I have since learned the Polaris WAS actually a real ship! And a steam one at that, so this kit is not completely accurate, from what I read this vessel was procured by the US Navy and was actually known as the USS Periwinkle prior to being an arctic expedition ship? That being said, I took a lot of artistic liberty. I have been learning some terminology in the nautical world, what parts and pieces are, how things work— but slowly. I have some learning disabilities so PLEASE don’t judge me too hard for sounding so basic with what I post! I know there’s measuring involved to make the strake planks accurate, Occre is very difficult in the sense that they just shrug and have you figure out how to hodgepodge the pieces. You’ll see I followed Occre’s instructions up to the second layer of planking, where I tried to fiddle with things a little to make it easier. anyway! I used a 90 degree ruler to make sure that the ribs were PERFECT, and of course they were! Until I tried to glue the deck on. Thankfully the wood glue I used it rather forgiving and a bit rubbery when it dries, so I could gently crack the ribs into place without breakage. I learned the cement I was used “contact glue” was garbage. I must have gotten a bad bottle because the planks didn’t stick to the wood very well. It was a frustrating process of using the glue I bought from Occre to get everything to lay down well AND HERE IS WHERE I MADE MY FIRST MASSIVE MISTAKE I followed the instructions TOO precisely. Using the varnish. That was a big whoops. It was after I applied the varnish I looked at other finished kits and saw that they stained the deck to get richer colors… Well, I guess I’ll be getting back to this—- and you can already tell what’s going to happen. All in all, I was feeling very proud and excited to be getting this far
  2. Hello all, I got a start on my first wooden ship model over the weekend. I have had a great time so far, with a few frustrating moments created by myself, an injury at the dockyard and a realization I am terrible at small scale painting. I do have some modelling experience, I built quite a few plastic model airplanes, cars, and military equipment in my youth so I do know some techniques but it has been 20 years since my last model, and as I have found out wood is a completely different animal. I do have some questions on the paint colors, other than the picture on the box it doesn't seem like there is any guide in the instructions on what color parts should be painted. I bought a paint kit for HMS beagle from Model Expo, but I'm just not sure what colors should be used for, I could definitely use a hand explaining some of these colors I have never heard of. I'm still learning sailing/ship terminology so please be patient If I name something incorrect. Anyways here is my start on the HMS Beagle log. Here are the colors that came in my kit, any help on these would greatly be appreciated. Here is the assembly of the skeleton of the ship, nothing much to look at yet just lots of glue and making sure pieces are squared away. Once I had the frame glued together my next step was to start planking the deck. I used a pencil to line the boards, and then lined them at 60mm and added nails. I know the pencil caulking and nails are controversial, but I wanted to try the process out for myself and see how it looked. Veterans of this kit will notice a mistake I made at this point, I still wouldn't notice it for another night. The next day I started to assemble to fore and aft interior ship walls and started to add planks to the walls. After dinner I sat down and started to look over the instructions, I then noticed my deck looked "off" compared to the instructions, and it hit me that I got a little carried away trimming the deck cutouts. Maybe I shouldn't watch American Football Playoffs while I work on the model...... This is where the dock workers should have stopped for the night and started fresh the next morning. A little frustrated at my mistake I decided to try and see if I could pull up a few of the planks and replace them. The only tool I could find to fit the job of prying the piece up was a razor blade, I got one piece up without too much trouble and then started on the second piece. This is when the razor blade slipped out from the wood and straight into my right hand behind my thumb, it was a very deep cut. The dock medic quickly came over and we cleaned the wound and closed it up with some super glue, no workers comp granted for this dock worker. Getting back to the model I decided just adding planks on top of the old planks and sanding them down a bit was the safest solution. The spouse says you can hardly notice the mistake, but as most model builders know your own mistakes are the most obvious. I also finished planking the fore and aft walls, you can also see a closer view of my correction, not super noticeable from afar, but if you inspect closely you can see the extra wood. Next up was the doors. I wasn't a fan of the solid laser cut brass doors and couldn't find much info on what color the doors should be so I settled on using the American Walnut paint (not stain) that came with the kit and giving it a white outline to kind of match the ships color. I have not painted with material this small in a long time, and I understand why so many of you have magnifying glasses now. My doors look terrible, but I came to the conclusion that it was the best I personally could do with what I have, and to not spend too much time getting hung up on them. I'm still not satisfied and may come back to them, but I'm really not sure I will be able to do much better. That's all I have for now. If you read through all of that, I appreciate your time. I am new to the hobby so any advice, tips, hints are greatly appreciated. Being a new student is one of the most fun parts of a new hobby. My main lesson I've learned so far is you really need to pay attention to the instructions on these kits, and I am starting to follow other Beagle build logs to help along the way.
  3. Somewhat presumptuously, given the many Endurance build logs already on these boards, I have decided to add yet another one. This post will explain why. Within the next day or two I will add posts listing the research sources I have come across, and photos of some kit-bashing I am doing at the very beginning of the build. It seems to me that ship models can be placed on a continuum, with beautiful models at one end, and historically accurate, or at least realistic, ones at the other end. Built as instructed, OcCre models are toward the former end -- exposed brass, different kinds of unfinished wood, etc. My first model, 30+ years ago, was Artesania Latina’s Bluenose. Nothing on it is painted, and it has a variety of beautiful woods, and brass anchor chains. I’m proud of the work I did, and I admire the beautiful models of this style others have displayed on this great website. But since that first model, I have gravitated more toward the other end of the continuum, trying to build models that are at least credible reproductions of the real thing. Not better than the ones just described; just a different style. Doing so with this OcCre build will require some kit-bashing, and that is what I hope to devote most of this build log to. I also hope to be advised, informed and inspired by the comments of those who choose to follow me on this journey. And with a little luck, maybe I can return the favor.
  4. It is ages since I tried to do a build log on this forum so I thought it was about time I did! I have made loads of models since my last but not done logs on any of them. I love the look of the tall ships and I have recently finished the Occre version of the Amerigo Vespucci with full lighting and loads of changes to the kit instructions to make her more like the real vessel. I am going to try and light the Gorch Fock as well although I wonder sometimes why I set myself these challenges. I can already see from the instructions that I will have to make a few alterations to the kit but otherwise I hope to build her more or less out of the box this time without looking too carefully at the real vessel. At first look the instructions are the usual Occre quality, the wood looks good and the fittings fine. I will change the navigation lights so that I can fit lights. I don't like the photo etched stanchions but changing them costs a lot as I know because I changed them on the AV so I will put up with them this time. The sails again are usual for Occre but to be honest they do look OK in the end. I made some for the AV as the kit didn't come with them but they didn't really come out better so I will stick with those provided. Let's see what else I find as I go along. For those who want to know this is what is in the box!
  5. Hi All, So my Polaris has arrived, along with the Occre Work Stand, starter kit tool pack and paints recommended by Cornwall Model Boats, who have been very helpful, which were quite a bit cheaper than the Occre paint set. I've also invested (a term I use often when explaining all the parcels arriving to my very understanding and supportive Wife) in some files, a pin pusher, sanding sticks, glues and filler. I suppose there will be other purchases along the way. It's coming with me to Brussels and I'll start her once I've finished my Airfix Titanic. I've been reading through Ilia's build log, what has completed a fantastic Polaris and I'm sure I'll be returning a lot for inspiration and tips!
  6. Just opened my next project. I am going to attempt to build the OcCre Endeavour. This will be my first completely wooden model after years of building plastic. I see there numerous builds of this ship in the index and will look to each of them for help and advice.
  7. Started my build in November 2023. Found this website and it has been a great help from many of your builds. And thanks for those that replied. Looking forward to this build more than ever. Will update my progress. Just starting to paint. Most of the build going forward looks quite intimidating! Sure will need help. My only comment on this model so far is the directions & plans are a real challenge.
  8. After finishing my OcCre Polaris I wanted to go more advanced and chose the Beagle for my next model. I really like the look and also the historical background of Charles Darwin. There she is: Kiel is perfectly straight: doing the skelleton applied the deck before planking. I can fix it with some nails this way. cabin walls added, thats it for the start:
  9. This is my first ever build but it is something I have wanted to try for years so thought I would jump in the deep end despite reading lots of horror stories of those who have started something too complex for their first build. Anyway I started after Christmas after looking at some of the other build logs and thought I would share progress as a complete newbie.
  10. When I started building model ships, I was mostly interested in building French ships. But when OcCre released their Endurance kit, I jumped at the opportunity. Researching and working on the Endurance, got me thinking about building a collection of ships of exploration (I'm just not all that interested in warships). So, after browsing around and considering my options, I thought the HMS Terror looked like an interesting next project for me. And thus, I've joined the Terror Club here on MSW! When I started the project, a few months ago, I didn't know anything about the Terror beyond the blurb on OcCre's website. But browsing through the other buildlogs and through Matthew Betts's outstanding blog, really got me hooked. I've already watched AMC's series The Terror. I'm reading Paul Watson's Ice Ghosts: The Epic Hunt for the Lost Franklin Expedition (I highly recommend this piece of popular historical work for anybody reading this who hasn't read it yet). And I have devoured all of the documentaries and other videos that I can find about the Franklin expedition, especially the coverage of the discovery of the ships a few years ago. I got obsessed with the Endurance as a teenager, but now my interest in the Terror is rivaling that. I approach each project by thinking about particular skills I want to develop. In this case, continuing on my experiences with the Martegaou, I'm very focused on the hull. The rigging is, by far, more complex than anything I've done, so I'm looking forward to that challenge somewhere down the road. This will also be my first experience with plating a hull, so that promises to be a bit of an adventure. But enough introduction, time for the photos! I've been working on this ship since May, holding off on starting my buildlog since I knew I was going to build the first layer of the hull at a very slow and deliberate pace. The kit started off in the usual way, by adding the frames to the spine. I didn't include a photo of it here, but I use 1" square braces to align each frame while the glue dries. As with the Endurance, the pieces here are cut really well and fit perfectly without sanding. Next up was the deck. All of my previous decks have just had planks running the length of the deck. The pattern for the Terror added a fun new wrinkle to that. I'm generally pleased with how that turned out. The lines marking the ends of the center planks are a departure from OcCre's designs; they approximate what Betts found in his research and did on his model. Then, on to the bulwarks. I used a plank bending iron, which made fairly quick work of shaping the plywood pieces. As an upgrade, I chose to line the bulwarks with sapele strips, rather than staining the plywood. In hindsight, I probably should have waited until I had finished the first layer of the hull, but my thought process at the time was focused on cutting and filing out all of the ports. On close inspection, I'm concerned about the cable holes that will be on either side of the bowsprit. I think OcCre misplaced the slots for the forward tabs on the deck, positioning them about 1.5mm too low and causing these holes to eventually be buried by the channels that edge the deck. I'm not entirely sure yet how I'll address that problem, but I have plenty of time to work out a solution. (Sorry that I didn't vacuum up the sawdust before taking the photo!) After fairing the frames, it was on to the first layer of the hull. As has been noted elsewhere, OcCre's approach to lining the hull is a simplified approach that involves laying as many straight planks as possible, then filling in the gaps with wedges. However, I wanted to try running strakes that were much more consistent in shape. I measured each frame, found that I would need 23 strakes, and then divided the length of each frame by 23. I don't have digital calipers, so there was a bit of fudging the measurements. But while watching one of the video updates on the rebuild of the Tally Ho, I was struck when Richard discussed using measuring sticks. I realized that this strategy would help me achieve a higher degree of consistency across all of the planks. So, I made one for each side. These photos document my process. The measuring stick is on top, with lines marking the forward edge of each frame. There's a bit of extra length on both ends, so the first pencil line on the right is actually the forwardmost frame. First, I aligned each new plank alongside the measuring stick, so I could copy over the vertical lines for the frames. Then, I aligned the measuring stick on top of the new plank, so I could trace the shape. The result looked like photo #2. After this, I sanded the plank down to shape it, checking it on the hull to confirm where any beveling might be needed. After soaking the plank, I used the plank bending iron to do the final shaping. While the glue dried, I clamped the plank in place with a combination of binder clips and rubber bands (and eventually thumbtacks when there wasn't enough room for the clips anymore). The notepad in this photo has my chart of measurements. The plank underneath the ship is the measuring stick for the portside, tucked out of the way while the glue dries. I need to keep practicing with this planking strategy, but I'm generally happy with how it turned out, especially since I had to fudge my measurements a bit. Based on my measurements, I expected to need 23 strakes per side, and I ended up with 22—only one of which doesn't run end-to-end. There are a couple gaps that will need wood filler (especially one sizable gap on the starboard side), but they are generally lying well against each other. This week, I installed the whiskey plank and the forward blocks (per OcCre's instructions, there are four plywood pieces used on either side of the stempost to create the bluff bow). Then it was time to sand and fair the hull. I've made a lot of progress on that, though I'm not done yet. However, it is satisfying to hold something that actually looks and feels like a ship! Next steps: finish sanding and fairing the first layer of the hull; prepare the rabbet line in the stempost, sternpost, and keel.
  11. I have recently completed my first model ship, HMS Beagle by Occre. I am now starting my second, Frigate Diana, also from Occre. I have decided to document this build with a build log. I am hoping to get feedback and advice from more experienced modelers and to hopefully be a source of information to other beginners. Some of the members that post on this site are meticulous about being as historically accurate as possible. While I respect the time and effort that they put into researching and building their models, I am less concerned with this aspect of the hobby. For me it is about the relaxation and satisfaction I get out of building the model and the aesthetic of the final result. While I am pleased with the overall result of my first model, I am looking forward to improving on my second build. One area that I am focused on is the first layer of the planking. I am planning on installing the first layer of the planking using some of the techniques that I have read about on this web site. This may be overkill since I am still planning on adding the second layer of planking, but I am viewing it as practice for someday building a model that only has a single layer of planking. I am also hoping to be more precise on items like the trim on the deck railings and the masts and other deck features. My rigging got better as I progressed on my first model, and I hope to make all of the rigging better on this model. I am also hoping to learn more about the proper terminology for the various parts of the ship, especially the rigging. Thank you for taking the time to read this build log and please add comments and questions about my work. The parts were in great shape except for one of the ship's wheels had two broken spokes. Occre is really good about replacing broken parts and makes the process pretty easy. The laser cut parts are all in good condition and nothing is warped. Occre provides over 100 pages of instructions and plans including detailed rigging plans. I hope the have be basic frame assembled in a few days and will post on my progress.
  12. Here i go again!!! After not learning my lesson with occre's Terror here i am with their Erebus (at least i know more about the ships this time😁). Received the kit yesterday and as i suspected it is their Terror kit with a couple of amendments. This means the hull is 12mm too short, but i might just leave that as i am more inclined to alter the incorrect shapes of the frames towards bow and especially the midships to stern section -Matt Betts stated in his blog that the frames pictured were altered to stop piracy and i think it is these occre used when designing their Terror kit. Onto the kit - they have used M.D.F. instead of plywood (which seems the norm now for occre) for the longitudinal (keel) bulkhead while the frames and deck are in ply- the deck still has the bowsprit location for Terror which will need altered- another alteration is the shape of the forepeak on the stem/ keel/ sternpost sheet (looks like the style of the one on the infamous lithograph was used as inspiration). Also the etched brass sheet now has a nameplate added which looks like the style used on 'The Terror' series. Everything else is what you get in the Terror kit which has an excellent review on here and also see Keith S and my build logs for our little Terrors (even before the kit arrived i had already bought two of the caldercraft 10 spoke ships wheels)! Not sure when the build will actually start as busy rebuilding my outdoor messy jobs workshop. Take care all Keith
  13. I bought this kit as a preorder and have been sitting on it until I finish my current build, the Panart HMS Victory. I'll be adding pics soon. In the meantime, here's a pic of my Vic. Cheers!
  14. It is not the first build log showing OcCre's Albatros but it is the very first wooden ship model I will build. To start with shipmodelling I have selected the Albatros as she should not be too tough to build and there is a series of YouTube videos showing the build step by step I can refer to when I need it. I have started this project at the end of November last year and already have spent some 60 hrs working on it before I have joined MSW a week ago. Therefore this log will be a rough wrap up of what I have done so far and then will join the actual stage of the build - rigging the guns. As I am not a native speaker I will have to translate some nautical terms from German to English and getting the photographs uploaded and resized first. Starting tomorrow I think that all posts will be done until sunday. You will see a lot of mistakes I think so any help and comments which will help me to improve my modelling skills are highly appreciated. Thanks in advance ... Kai
  15. Hello MSW! This post serves as an introduction to yet another build log for the Endurance kit by Occre. First, a little about me: I started this wonderful hobby as a teenager and kept at it when I could as I was traveling all over for the US military. This made it difficult to set up a permanent workshop (or table as it were) so my first and second ships stayed on standby for most of this time, with small bursts of productivity here and there. Unfortunately, the San Fran in my signature was lost to rough handling by a shipping company (yay army movers!) many many years ago, when I got out of the military. The Newport is currently on my newly-setup work table and I have been making slow progress with it and will need to update that log soon. I've built a dinghy and a skipjack on the side, which I don't necessarily count as "wooden model ships" in the class these vessels are in. That being said this kit will be my 3rd model ship kit. Anyway, we're here to log my rendition of the famous Endurance. She needs absolutely no introduction, and I'm going to point anyone who wants more information to the numerous and great build logs from others, as they've done a remarkable job documenting the ship's beginnings in their logs. First thing is first, my kit is currently in the mail on its way to me. While waiting for the kit to arrive I have already read through every Endurance log on this website and will probably read them all again for good measure. While making my way through the logs I took note of every bash and scratch build people have done to make this model more historically accurate. I'm not going for 100% accuracy, but perhaps somewhere around 90% accurate, to the extent my modeling skills allow. There was great advice given to focus on a particular 'load out' as this ship seemed to change a little here, a little there over the course of her voyage. I am particular drawn to the very beginnings of being stuck in the floes, so I imagine I will gravitate towards this set-up. I don't have all of the details nailed down yet in my notes for this period of the voyage, but over the next few weeks as I work on the obvious structures, I'll continue research and make decisions as we go. Things I already plan on changing (so far): Under the forward deck will be open (I have a question on this at the end of this post). All belaying pins replaced with brass. Stanchions will be 3D brass with brass wire rod, soldered then painted white. 2-Blade brass prop (someone in another forum said it was 25mm. I could only find 30mm, so I hope it's not too big). Coal loading covers instead of the o1 stacks on the aft main (lower?) deck. Probably scratch capstan. Steering gear with chain (thread as backup). Anchor cats shaved down towards deck. Deck planks 2.9mm wide (for 8" planks). Portholes are too small, so either fill and drill new or drill bigger (and not using the brass inserts). I'm sure I'm missing something else but you get the idea. That sums up where I currently am at: the very beginning. I've always enjoyed curating a log on these forums and is why I keep coming back after so much time has passed. I appreciate anyone and everyone stopping by and offering suggestions, thoughts, concerns, and motivation. Please feel free to post any historical data you might have that's relevant to the ship's configuration as she entered the ice floes. I'd be eternally grateful! I have a few questions to start off with: - Area under the anchor deck. What was it used for? What did it look like? Are there any images that show this area? @Tomculb has a great interpretation of this at this post, and I'm inclined to do the same. - In this picture it appears the ritz has a chimney coming from the port forward side. Is that correct? If so, I'll be including it in my model. - Was the steering gear exposed when they first entered the ice floes? OcCre has it covered, but I want to model it. However, since I'm going for a particular time in her voyage, I'm not sure if it was covered in the beginning of the floes or not. Until next time!
  16. Greetings All, Build log for the Occre Montanes. Pretty happy with the kit everting was nicely packaged and wrapped. All the ply was flat and not warped all the strips and dowels nicely banded together and all the small parts in plastic compartmented trays. The instructions are good, there is a book of photos and a separate book of instructions. The plans for the masts are nicely printed at 1:1 scale. I did take the plans to my local copy shop and have them single side printed and had the plan for the side view enlarged to 1:1 scale instead of 1:3. My last ship had double sided plans and it got old constantly flipping them over. This is my third build and I wanted to work at a bigger scale, this ship is big! I had to build another bench to make things easier. For the build board I went to my local home improvement center and got a melamine shelf board, a "premium pine" furring strip and poplar strips for the bottom slot. The shelf board gives a nice flat smooth surface and I have a piece of 3/4 ply underneath, roughly $40.00 for materials. I Made sure the uprights were perfectly squared then made sure they were in line using a 3' steel level. The notches in the bottom boards are for the bulkheads. The notch down the center is to keep the false keel straight. On my first kit I didn't take much time with the build board and the false keel twisted. I was able to fix it, but I had to remove a lot of planking and add reinforcements to the false keel not fun! For the frame I cut the rabbet and the bearding line with a Proxxon mill. I sanded all the bulkheads, so they were snug but not tight and dry fitted everything at least ten time before I started gluing things together. I stated with the bow bulkhead and worked to the stern. the big square reinforcements were sanded so they would slide in without being forced. I squared each bulkhead to the false keel and plumb to the build board. I also added a lot of bracing (might have gotten carried away a bit but I don't want the disaster I had with my first kit). The instructions show planking the decks then gluing them in place. I don't know how I could have gotten them glued to each bulkhead correctly as the have significant slope towards the bow and stern, so I opted to pin and glue the decks in place first then do the planking. I Deck Planking: Decided to use the method I saw here on MSW with construction paper. After consulting with the admiral and her staff, decided the light brown looked best. (Tried black, dark brown, pencil and sharpie). The hardest part here (other than making what seemed to be an endless number of planks) was getting the glue consistency down. Too think and the paper does not bond well, too runny, and it gets between the planks. I also found the brushing the glue on worked best for me. I used watered down PVA. When gluing the planks to the paper make sure they are snug with each other. After the glue dried, I separated the planks using a double-sided shaving razor blade. Oh, and put tape on the blade to avoid nasty little cuts! After the planks are separated repeat the process for the ends. You only need to do one side and one end for the planks. I used a four-plank shift starting from the centerline. Not hard just have to keep track of where you are and make sure the construction paper caulking is facing the right way. I didn't take the planking all the way to the first bulkhead since it will never be seen.
  17. Well I've put this off long enough, with a much needed break after my Royal Louis and now off work till the 6th January, it's now time for the next kit on my workbench. After watching so many videos and trying to gather as much info as possible, This will be my first wooden kit in the shape of OCCRE'S ENDEAVOUR. A ship that has an Enormous Historical story and a kit once finished, will look beautiful. There is an Anticipation and nervousness about this for me, taking me slightly out of my comfort zone, but again pushing my capabilities. I have worked with wood before many times, but not on this level or scale. Patience is key as always, checking and double checking, dry fitting etc... There will be challenges ahead, and the need to think outside the box, but most of all patience and enjoying the build and learning are foremost. Happy modelling everyone & #staysafe 😷👍🤺🤺⚓⚓
  18. Initial disclaimer: I just ordered the kit yesterday. For now, I thought I'd introduce myself, talk about my first build in terms of my experience with my first kit, about what I'm looking forward to for this second build. My first build was the US Ranger by Corel (no build log). I actually bought it about 12 years ago, started it, got the deck planked and the first hull layer done. I then shelved it - mainly out of frustration - until COVID happened. Good time to get back into it! Unfortunately, for someone's first wood model ship experience, it was a hot mess: poorly translated and confusing instructions. inaccurate drawings, some of the pre-cut parts were cut in the wrong position. Case in point: the forward mast hole in the deck was too far back. Not realizing it at the time, I mounted the mast and when I got to placing the main sail, it was squeezed between the mast and the rigging. The blocks were just bad and I ended up buying my own. I also ran out of some planking, so I had to purchase that. There were a lot of steps that were logically out of order - especially for the rigging, forcing me to work around a lot of rigging that could/should have been done later. But, through all of that, I learned a LOT. To go over EVERY step before getting started, make sure every part is there and is cut/manufactured right, do a lot of dry-mounting before gluing; plus I learned a lot of helpful tricks and strategies along the way. Fortunately, I had you guys to help me get through the challenges, and in the end, I'm proud of what I accomplished! Looking for my second build, I wanted something equally challenging (but not challenging in terms of the poor quality of the kit itself), but made by a MUCH better company and with lots of resources to utilize. After hours of research I decided on the HMS Beagle purchased from OcCre and in my initial build log research I found NINE build logs, so I have a lot of resources to use from others' experiences with the same ship. While I'm waiting for the kit to arrive (can anyone speak to how long OcCre's orders typically take to arrive? I live in Central MN, US.), I'm going to research the build logs available and maybe pop in a question here. Looking forward to the kit arriving and getting started!
  19. Hi all, I’ve been searching through various logs to find anyone who, in executing this model used the cast stern piece, pictured below. I’ve seen that several people have decided to build this from scratch (which I’d prefer not to do) but the challenges are: (1) the curvature isn’t quite right and I’m stumped on how to adjust it. (2) the painting of this is daunting, I can see several ways to approach it but none that seem to achieve the end results. Would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions.
  20. ***OcCre - Cazador Jabeque / Xebec 1750*** Hello my friends, it's been a while since my last buildlog of Santa Maria Buildlog. Today I would like to present my new log of the Xebec Cazador of OcCre. As a child I was fan of the Redbeard comics, maybe known by some of you. Anyway, one of the titles was "Fight With The Moors" (1973) and describes a story of Moorish pirates who looted merchant ships in the Mediterranean sea. The ships they used were fast, agile and armed to the teeth Xebecs! In the story, ships were plundered, crew were killed, the ship burned to the ground and women were kidnapped and sold on the black market as slaves. It intrigued me because regular ships, even well armed were not capable to cope with these dangerous circumstances and the Xebec's with their ruthless crew were winning most of the fights. Ofcourse this Redbeard story was fiction but based on true events in that timeperiod. A different and dark time compare with today so to say. The Spanish Crown built Cazador mid 18th century to fight the Moors in the Mediteranean Sea. To me, this was the conclusion to take on this ship and build her myself. A beautifull representation of a Spanish Xebec in combat with the Moors is shown below. It's a picture of Ángel Cortellini Sánchez! Source: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:DonAntonioBarcelóConSuJabequeCorreoRindeADosGaleotasArgelinas.jpg OcCre - Ocio Creativo made a beautiful kitmodel but compare to reality it has some shortcomings. I'm not sure if I have the possibilities to change a couple of things, but we will see on the way. My workplace is the dining table in the dining room with only my handtools and hopefully a lot of creativity! ☺️ Some specifications of the kitmodel Ref: 14002 Scale: 1:60 Length: 860mm / 33.9 inches Height: 630mm / 24.8 inches Width: 160mm / 6.3 inches Chapter 1 - The Box and parts The boxart is pretty basic but neat and tidy. It looks like OcCre use the box design for almost all their models kits. A picture of the ship makes the difference and is a piece of paper which sticks to the box. It's the contents of the box that has my interest. Wel about the contents inside the box. All things are neatly packed and the milled wood looks all right. Not perfect or of the highest quality, but just fine. What bothers me are the plywood parts. Even the keel, transom parts are made of plywood and stained into a walnut color. I prefer walnut parts instead of stained plywood. Chapter 2 - A new beginning To me the scale of the ship and the less complexity of the model is ideal for the dining table situation. After modeling I can easily clean up the table and put the box, tools and the ship away for the next moment. After inspecting the parts, I start with numbering the plywood parts. After numbering the parts, I'll cut the parts out of the frame and dryfit the bulkheads. The plywood it very thin and brittle. The bulkhead fits nicely on the main plate of the ship. After putting some glue on the bulkheads, it's time to cut out the main deckplate. Hopefully this give the structure some rigidity and strength. Time to plank the deck. I choose a pattern and start laying the strips. Unfortunately the strips a not consistent in thickness and varies widely between 1 - 1,3mm. After a while... Job's done. Time to scrape the deck flush. Also the upper part of a bulkhead needs to be covered with the same strips but placed verticaly. At the aft of the ship, strips of veneer are placed horizontally. I bend the veneer with an iron so it follows the curve of the bulkhead. It's hard to do, but to me it looks a bit nicer instead of straight strips. Time to put another deck plate on the ship. Also this needs to be covered with some strips of wood...it's the same process as on the main deck. Well, it's a start so to say. I'll try to update once a week if possible. If you like to leave a comment, I'll appreciate it and please feel free to ask me any questions. See yah later! Peter
  21. For my fourth build after finishing the modelshipways series. I am going with the Palamos by Occre. It seems like a fairly good beginner build, I like trawlers and I managed to find it on clearance for $75. It appears that the boat isn't modeled after any particular fishing boat (at least as far as I could find) but rather is a general representation of fishing boats seen around Palamos Spain. I like the clean wood colors of the Occre model, but it looks like the real fishing boats were all painted bright colors. I am a bit torn on if I should paint the hull or leave the nice looking wood. Opening the box everything looks to be in good shape. There are 3 pages of 1/1 model scale drawings and separate instruction and photo reference booklets. There is also a paint chart that isn't photographed. I was planning on doing a parts inventory, but the way the parts list is labeled and references the instruction booklet photos, it would be quite time consuming and difficult. Upon comparing it to my previous builds, there are only a few sheets of wooden parts but all of the planking is with strips rather than laser cut strakes. All in all, it looks fairly well organized and should be a good build.
  22. Slow progress here indeed, but I'm enjoying it very much. The instructions say I should next install all the 'deck furniture', that is items like the windlass and pumps, hatch, etc. I am beginning to stain and paint those bits and pieces. However, I am looking forward to doing the rigging, so have begun making the masts and spars at the same time. As you can see, the photos here are mainly to show the planking and rudder details. I didn't use the secondary planking provided with the kit. Those mahogany strips were 5mm wide. Since we're dealing with a scale of 1:100, that would represent planks about 20 inches wide! I didn't like that idea, so I went to my stash of cherry-wood strips and picked the narrowest, which were 1/8" wide and .5mm thick. For the finish I brushed on two diluted coats of polyurethane gloss varnish, followed by a final coat of diluted satin, rubbing down between each coat. I much prefer to use these products thinned down. Granted that means more coats, but I'm not in a rush.
  23. Hello everybody, This is my first experience in model ship work. From the begin I was very closed with you and I want to join to this community! After more than two years, this my work... Some mixed pictures!
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