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Found 9 results

  1. Hello, Welcome to my build log of the Hayling Hoy. David Antscherl's excellent book on this build says that it is suitable for a first time builder attempting a fully framed model. Well, I am certainly a first time scratch builder and this will be my first fully framed model so I hope he is correct! I decided to attempt this build as I wanted to stretch my skills and techniques and also because I knew it would be a very long project. I really don't have that much spare space to display finished models and so the longer I can keep one on the building board the better! I was impressed and encouraged by previous first time scratch builders who have also attempted this build, notably @Stuntflyer and @Seventynet and I hope I can come up with something that even approaches their excellent work. I have no background or experience in woodworking and whilst I do own a few of the machines that may help with this build, eg table saw, thicknesser, mill etc I haven't had a great deal of experience using them to date and so this will be a learning experience for me on those tools as well as in regard to the techniques of scratch building a fully framed model. There will be plenty of mistakes and do overs on the way but I'm not worried about that as it will all be a part of the project. I will of course welcome any advice and ideas from people who feel that they would like to contribute. I know I have a lot to learn and I am looking forward to it. Progress is going to be slow as I don't get that much time each week to devote to modelling but hopefully I will keep going forwards! Being based in Australia I really don't have access to the lovely types of wood I often read about on this forum but there are of course native options. I have decided to use some myrtle that seems to be in readily available supply. So far I have only purchased a couple of small pieces just to get started with. The myrtle seems very like pear wood (to my untutored eye at least) and hopefully will make a lovely coloured model with fine graining. I have spent that last few weeks getting ready to start this project and that included getting the plans copied and making my building board. I used some mdf for the base of the board and added some pine battens underneath. I have seen a couple of builds that use t track as part of the building board and so I decided to copy that idea and I also made some wooden squares to use with the t track. I added a couple of coats of white paint to the board and then glued down the plan using some spray adhesive. It seemed like a good idea to add a coat of artists' varnish over the plan but clearly that was a mistake as it only succeeded in introducing lots of wrinkles - so that wasn't a good start. Either I hadn't glued the plan down sufficiently or the spray varnish just didn't like that particular paper. So off with that plan and on with another copy, this time glued down with lots of Bostick blu stick - and it seems to be sticking well so far. I didn't bother with the varnish this time around. I also extended the lines of the frames out onto the board which should hopefully make things easier to line up and keep square etc down the track. Today I actually made a start on the build itself and began with cutting out the pieces for the keel. The keel is made of three separate pieces joined with scarps joints. The rear two pieces are simply 12" square lengths and I deliberately made them over long as I wanted to make sure I had plenty of excess to work with in case I made a mess when cutting the scarph joint. The scarph joints were cut on the table saw and then the faces of the cuts tidied up with a small chisel. Strangely, the keel sections look far from square in that photo above but it must just be the perspective - they are square honestly! Next job is to tackle the forward section of the keel with the boxing joint.
  2. Well team, I hope I haven't bitten off more that I can chew but I have taken over a full frame model of the EURYALUS in 1:48 scale from a long standing member of this forum; Russell H. Russell unfortunately is not in a position to continue building this model so he has offered it to me to complete. Russell has already achieved full framing from stem to the fashion pieces and the fitting of transoms and the Stersom Knee. He has also made a start on fairing inside and out and started laying the first few rows of the ceiling from the keelson. Port side is full frame, Starboard mostly framed; gaps for viewing internally. The plan is to fully plank Port side and only partially plank Starboard side (same for the decks. Russell hasn't worked on the model for nearly 2 years so things have settle a little. First step will be to ensure full frame alignment and secured them before continuing the journey. A little damage has occurred with one Of course this will mean that THUNDERER will be put on the back burner as I will not have the space to build two 1:48 warships concurrently. Time to check out the other EURYALUS builds on the forum.....
  3. Hi, This is a validation model for kit development, and the work of hull part will begin soon. About 70% of the design has been completed. My partners will make 1:36, 1:48 and bow section respectively. All the photos from their buildlog are authorized for me to release in MSW. This project started from NMM's original draught, True Image Model, a ship model studio from UK, which obtained a commercial kit license from NMM. Now there are three modelers involved in the model validation. We will complete the bow section kit first, because it is relatively simple. The wood used in kit is boxwood / pear wood. Welcome to pay attention to our follow-up progress. Jack
  4. Being dissatisfied with the bow framing of frames 2 thru 12, these frames were completely reconstructed using my forecastle template previously submitted in the forum. The results were satisfactory as these photos show. I also prefabricated timber heads which procedure will be posted in a day or two. This exercise set me back almost 2 months. I would like to mention 3 of the frames needed build out at various locations. I laminated 1.5" (s) strips to the frames at these low locations. Results were fine.
  5. La Renommee - 30 guns - 26 x 8 lb on the main deck - 4 x 4 lb on the quarter deck. 125.75' x 33.75' x 17' Imperial The plans are those of the ANCRE monograph by Jean Boudriot 1993. The monograph includes the lofted shape of each of the 58 bends. This part of the monograph is not needed for my purposes. I will not be using these individual frame plans. I am using a new method. All of the frames between each station are worked as a single unit. For this hull, I have chosen to build it as a solid wall of framing timbers. I usually frame true POF, with spaces. The spaces are temporarily filled for the shaping and fairing of the frames. The space filling wood is bonded using an easily reversible agent. The unit handles as thought it was a single piece of wood and is not at all fragile. The edges of the frames are protected from being rounded. For La Renommee I will PVA bond all of the frame timbers. The lofting required has some similarities with POB level of lofting, but more work is required. In all, the time required to develop a set of frame timber patterns for La Renommee was about 5 days. This is a much shorter time than it takes to loft each frame by plotting it using a drawing board or CAD. My shortest lofting time was 4 days - for the early clipper Rainbow. In general it takes about 10 days. A multi deck warship takes longer. My reading and experience points to this method as being analogous to the way actual ships were framed prior to 1860. The product of the mold loft was likely just molds for the midline shape of the bends at the station positions. Ribbands and experience of the ship wrights would have been used to shape the timbers between. Chocks would be used where I place filling wood. These would not have been removed later. Because the wood for the model is 60 times lighter and 60 times smaller, I can shape all of these frames as a unit. It also allows the wood to be taken to the cutting edge and easily manipulated, as the opposite was necessary for the ship. A Glossary for the terms that I will use: This whole group is a Bend. It is two Frames. Each of the parts is a Timber.
  6. Hi Everyone, Yes another new chap here to the forum. I have been lurking in the shadows for sometime reading. reading and researching as I am new to scratch building wooden ship models. I am however an avid RC aircraft modeler and build and fly only scale gliders from 1/4 scale up. The largest scratch built glider I have has a wingspan of 7.5m so no small foamies here. Whilst this build goes on I also purchased the Hayling Hoy book from sea-watch and will be building this during the Triton build. A little test bed really. I hope to document this Triton build to a high level to ensure I have a beautiful replica once completed and I am certain I will have plenty of questions along the way so the more detail provided the easier it will be to gain assistance. There isn't a whole lot to show just yet as I have only printed out a very small number of the large format drawings and have a ton to go until I finish printing them all. I was thinking about not printing everything at once to save up a little space but I think it will be a lot easier to print them all out then check off each sheet with the master list to ensure I don't miss anything. That's really all there is for now, I needed to get the build log started as it will give me the little nudge along to get things moving along nicely. I would like to thank all the guys and gals out there that contributed to these drawings, they are very thorough and would have taken hundreds of man hours to put together so thank you all, especially at only 5 bucks, brilliant. Anyway I better try to get some sleep its 3am here. Chow for now. Steve
  7. I'm midway through a build of the Emma C. Berry. I took a year+ off due to buying and renovating a new house. In the meantime, people have been anxiously awaiting promised updates of progress. I thought a fun project, or couple, would be to recreate some of the parts of some amazing builds on MSW. A recreated frame w/ blackened nails or a full keel. Accompanied by some plans and shadowboxed. I'm struggling on two parts: I can't seem to get wood to save my life. I have placed an order at Wood Project Source, but two weeks later realized I neglected to supply a unit number in my shipping address (please note, this is an error on my end - not theirs). Reading before placing a second order, due to demand, it may be 2-3+ weeks before I can get some wood to work with. Any US vendors than can delivery relatively quicker? Looking for pear and boxwood preferably. I don't have accurate plans for a frame (and it's parts) or keel. Are there accessible plans with a minimal cost that are limited to the parts I want? I know this question extends beyond the scope of this forum, but advise would be great. Thank you all, and a silent tip of the hat to all the builds I've been watching that have inspired me. Ryan
  8. Hello all... Is there a true and legit Plank on Frame kit available in the market? Preferably a large ship like a 3 masted square rigged ship. Not plans, but the whole kit. Thanks in advance Ulises
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