Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'resin'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Captain's Cabin
    • How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT** 
    • New member Introductions
  • Member's Build Logs
    • Build logs for SHIP MODEL KITS - by era - launch date
    • Build logs for SCRATCH projects - by era - launch date
  • Group Projects on MSW
    • Group Projects on Model Ship World
  • Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research
    • Nautical/Naval History
    • Discussions for Ships plans and Project Research. General research on specific vessels and ship types..
    • Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
    • Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
    • Masting, rigging and sails
    • Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs
    • Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
    • Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
    • Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?
    • Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
    • CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
    • Photographing your work. How to do this.
  • Ship Modeling News And Reviews.....Traders and Dealers...Ship Model Clubs
    • General Ship Model Kit Discussions - NOT build logs
    • Reviews
    • Book, Monograph and Magazine reviews and Downloads. Questions and Discussions for Books and Pubs
    • Traders, Dealers, Buying or Selling anything? - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
    • NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
    • Important Ship Model Club News, Links to ship modelling resources and museums
  • The Crew's Lounge
    • Non-ship/categorised builds
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Plans and Instructions/Downloads
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s General discussions/How to join
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Ropewalk Plans/Downloads
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Commercial sources for ropewalk machines
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Build Logs for the Carving Group Project
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Tutorials and Discussion for the Carving Group
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's How to join this Carving Group
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Build Logs for the Full Hull Version of HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's How to Join The HMS TRITON Group Build
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's How to join this group project???
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's General project discussions on planking, fittings and monograph chapters
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's Member Build logs for the HMS Winchelsea
  • Planking Techniques's Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos
  • Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Questions and discussions about building the kit
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Build Logs for the CAF Granado Cross MID-Section

Calendars

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 15 results

  1. I’ve got about 4 builds planned this year, and this set is a really reasonable price as it comes with an excellent PE Set from Pontos. I have some other extras from Veteran models and aftermarket decals. there are a HEAP photos of a Sydney and this class of ship on Facebook as well as those who have served on her.
  2. Next should be a quick build of a resin 1/350 Bathurst class minesweeper by Pacific Crossroads. Nice PE, resin and this will be a OOB build.
  3. Bluejacket is proud to announce an exciting new kit, the Ellie Mara, a 2-masted coastal schooner typical of the mid-1800's. With a wide beam and shallow draft, she could get very close to the shore. The kit has a cast resin hull, laser cut pieces, Britannia fittings, brass rod, and 4 sizes and colors of rigging thread. overall length is 15", and is scaled for HO (1:87) She has a very attractive list price of $124.00, part number K1115.
  4. I needed a change of scenery after a 10 year build on my Endeavour. I couldn't face another long term challange. Months ago I found the Artwox Varyag on the net on an overseas site and liked it a lot, but shipping to Oz is usually a nightmare. I found the kit at BNA Models at a reasonable price and thought that itn would be a nice change as I have not done a plastic model this century. I suppose the advantage of a late 1800's early 1900's kit has the advantage of real photos. Also the aftermarket range of goodies for plastic kits is great, as plastic is a lot more unforgiving than wood. The Artwox kit only has the original Zvesda hull, with their own false deck, wooden deck, resin, photoetch and barrels. The instructions are fairly good but without other references I would be lost. After having done a tall ship model, I now know how important the rigging plans are (the kit has none) and I have orderd the Kagero book. There are some things missing from the Artwox photoetch fret which are included in the Eduard kit and vice versa, so I also got that.
  5. I stumbled over this manufacturer located in the US, in Tennesse to be exact. The name is Iron Shipwrights and they seem to make very nice resin kits, most of them are coming with PE parts (no need to buy other sets). Just wondering if anyone has experience with their products?
  6. Hi all, I started this kit about two years ago, and in the general workbench confusion that reigns in my shop I thought I lost ALL the rest of the parts to finish it up, so I put it in the "finish later" pile. Lo and behold, when digging for other stuff I unearthed most of the missing parts... the cutters especially. The Verlinden 1:200 ironclad series (about 5 kits, I think) are absolutely flawless resin castings with no flash, blobs or bubbles. The dimensions are about 12" long (with spar torpedo), 2.75" wide and 2.5" tall (with masts). I think they're out of production, but they're out there for less than $100 if you hunt around. They are simple waterline kits, with a one piece hull and only about 10 other resin parts. Since I've already completed most of the time consuming work, I've decided to finish this while I continue on my Philly. CSS Palmetto State was one of about 22 ironclads built or commissioned by the South in the Civil War, and were generally outclassed and outnumbered by their Union counterparts. The South just didn't have the materials or industrial capacity to have parity with the Union, but they sure came up with some creative and interesting designs using what they had on hand. Here's a brief history of the CSS Palmetto State. Things I will need to do to finish it are: Straighten up the PE railings (aftermarket, from a 1:350 Bismarck PE add-on kit) Finish adding the rope for the gunport covers Add the anchors and anchor davits with appropriate rigging Add battened masts, oars and sails inside the cutters and tie them down to the molded mounts Add four guy wires to the funnel Add a ventilator, whistle and cook stove chimney on the upper deck Add a short bow and stern pennant mast with pennants Add two masts to the ends of the upper deck with associated rigging (very simple... three lines each) Build the bow spar torpedo, mount and rig it in stowed position I'm going to mount it in a clear plastic case meant for 1:18 auto diecasts. The case I selected has a clear bottom, and the inside measurements are about 13" x 5". I'm planning on painting the underside of the clear base with a murky water pattern and then use clear gloss Mod Podge medium to simulate ripples on the top of the base around the ship. I may include a dock section, it depends on how much room I have and if it will not detract from the model. Here's where it stands now, I'm sorry I don't have any previous in process pictures, but I'll continue this as a build log and post progress as it happens.
  7. Moving forward in the later 20th century, my next build, the Soviet (now Russian Navy) Varyag. I found this on ebay along with a cruiser and a Chinese set of PE for the Varyag for a hell of a lot cheaper than anywhere in OZ. You can see from the 1904 version, she got a bit bigger and I think was primarily an aircraft carrier killer. There are a LOT of photos online for her him and his brothers (Russian ships are boys apparently), and I have as usual ordered up some more extras. The Gold Medal Models PE is just lovely and incredibly detailed. The hull is very smooth and I will be doing a fair bit of work to etch in some panel lines, scuppers, dents, all to aid in weathering it.
  8. I'm building this model to give as a Thank You to someone. It is inexpensive, easy to do, and looks nice. The Rainbow was the winner of the 1934 America's Cup race, followed by Endeavour in second place. Here's the box and the contents.
  9. Hello I just got a new Dumas kit I know I may be getting ahead of myself but I was just wondering How do I apply the fiberglass resin/epoxy for the finishing layer waterproof/? 1.) Use a brush? 2.) just tape off and pour directly on the surface. or is there another way or recommendations Thankyou!
  10. Orange Hobby 1/350 scale resin kit of USS Pegasus (PHM-1) I’m going to use this kit to learn how to use an airbrush and also to figure out how to handle this “new” style of resin kit (I’ll explain what I mean by that in a bit) prior to attempting to build a larger (and more expensive) model of a Knox-class Frigate by the same manufacturer. One mistake that I have already made but that will help me with the many more to come is that when I ordered the kit (along with several other items from an online store) I somehow ordered two of them. I was going to send one back for a refund but given its rather modest price I decided to keep it as a ready spares locker in case I really goon up the airbrush paint job or break/lose an important part. Kit contents: Everything fragile comes well-wrapped in bubble wrap. The main hull is different from what I have seen in other resin kits in that it is very similar to plastic kits where there are 2 hull halves, the stern plate and the deck/superstructure. Most resin kits I have seen have all the above as one solid piece, or maybe with the hull in an upper and lower section so that it can be displayed full-hull or waterline. The smaller resin pieces are on pour legs and are remarkably well done with almost no flash. I said earlier that I consider this as a “new” style of resin kit, by that I mean the differences between this and earlier, older kits from other manufacturers are very noticeable, and welcome: Unlike the older, domestic kits I am used to this one has virtually NO pits or voids along thin edges and the flash is minimal and easily removed. The edges of the hull are very fine and fragile, as you can see in this pix I broke of a little from the forward edge of the bottom (port side) piece, fortunately I can fix that with a piece of strip plastic sanded to shape. The cast-on detail is amazingly fine, so fine you have to be careful when cleaning up the pieces not to remove something that is supposed to be there. I almost removed 2 bumps about the size of a small grain of sand before I realized they were the hinges where the quarterdeck awning frame would have been attached. There is a lot of forethought and planning in how the pieces fit together with locations clearly evident and long pieces have locating pins and beveled edges for a great fit. The directions are almost free of text (being from a Chinese company that is probably no loss) but the diagrams are numerous, detailed and exceptionally clear. All the parts (including the PE) are numbered and, as far as I can tell at this point, they are all included on the directions (something that doesn’t always happen with the hieroglyphs that pass for directions from some other manufacturers). The brass PE is extensive for such a small model. It is very thin with fine detail but I doubt it will hold up to multiple attempts to fold it so I’m going to try to get it right the first time. I’m going to assemble the main hull assembly and then discuss my plan for painting in the next post.
  11. Hi All. In developing the model began to emerge, some questions ... I hope that whoever - anything to help me? Wishes. Boris.
  12. Introduction: Imperial Russian Cruiser: Varyag, (Variag) I am really excited to work on this model, having followed it's development prior to release and finally purchasing one of the last remaining kits in the USA (that I could find anyway). The kit was produced as a limited edition by Artwox Model, who are mainly known for their wooden deck offerings. This kit was their first foray into a full model kit, detailed release photographs can be found here. My interest in this kit was not originally in the actual ship itself, but rather in the type of ship, and the level of detail that the kit contains. What I was really looking for was a super detailed model of SMS Emden of World War 1 fame. However, I quickly came to realize that if I wanted to do anything to the level of detail that I wanted, I would have to scratch build most of it. Emden was appealing for it's operational history, type of ship, and the mission it was designed for. These protected cruisers were at the time not conceived of as line of battle ships, but rather as commerce raiders. Almost akin to the frigates of 100 years before. Emden and her crew played that role to perfection in the Indian Ocean. A highly detailed kit of Emden was not available, but the Varyag was. So, not knowing much about the ship or it's history I sprung for the kit, putting it in my to do pile for a later day. In the interim, I have learned a lot about the ship, it's history, and even it's crew. I plan on doing a more detailed post later on to share some of the better details that I have learned thanks to a Russian co-worker, a museum curator, and good old fashioned research. Some Quick Facts: Built: Philadelphia Pennsylvania, USA, William Cramp & Sons Year Launched: 31 October 1899 Type: Protected Cruiser Length: 425' Beam: 51' 10" Draught: 20' 8" Armament: 12 single mount 6" Rifles 12 single mount 3" Rifles 10 Small Caliber, 1.9", 1.5" rapid fire Rifles 6 Submerged Torpedo Tubes, 15" Service: Russia: 1899 - 1904 Japan: 1907 - 1916 Russia: 1916 - 1918 Fate: Seized by the United Kingdom 1918, ran aground 1920. scraped 1925 The Kit: Whats in the box: as you can see from the photo above, there is a lot in the box! The hull is a casting from Zvezda, the deck is a thick sheet of brass covered by a real wood veneer. Everything else is either in the 248 pieces of resin, 86 scribed brass parts, or in two large sheets of PE. Wood Deck + Some of the resin parts Brass Deck Substrate Scribed brass parts PE sheet 1 PE sheet 2 Hull Detail Kit Short Comings: Though at first glance, it appears that everything you could possibly want to build the kit was in the box, that isn't really the case. For one, there is no stand or mounting contained in the contents. Okay no big deal there. The other, the instructions, though highly detailed, only show you where everything is supposed to end up in the assembly. Not how to put the ship together. So I hope that this log can be of service to others that may have a hard time deciphering the pictorial instructions. The next post will include some history and research about the ship, then I will get into the build itself. Best Regards!
  13. I looked for a long time to try to find a 1/350 scale model of my Dad's carrier, the New Orleans. The only kit in this scale, or really any scale, of the LPH-type carriers, was this one by Iron Shipwright's. As much as I hate working with resin, this was the only game in town. The original kit was made as LPH-9, the U.S.S. Guam and made as it was retrofitted to the 1985 time frame. Dad served on the New Orleans during 1969 - 1970, so a good bit of backdating is in order. I apologize to those who I told I was going to start a build log on this, but with two young kids my modeling time is sorely limited. After moving at the pace of a directionally challenged snail, the island is starting to come along fairly nicely. Please excuse the fact that I don't have any pictures of the parts before starting, but I was a little absent-minded! So anyway, here goes! The kit, in some areas, is very well detailed - but in others, it really needs some work. Starting with the island, I purchased a set of PE doors from White Ensign (who happens to make excellent PE items). The molded resin doors are some of the things that need re-working. Although some may say otherwise, my AMS (advanced modeler syndrome, or to put it in terms - having to update everything to make it as accurate as possible) just won't let me leave well enough alone. Going from pictures of the ship from the 1969 time frame, I am also reworking the island. It is difficult to see in the photos, the walks have been extended using white sheet styrene. I also had to replace the back wall of the island with styrene due to poor forming of the kit items. As you can see from the photos, some of the doors have been replaced and also all walks have been rebuilt. Also noticeable is the use of Mr. Surfacer (500) and Tamiya putty to help with corrections. Please excuse the quality of my pictures - I make no claim to be a photographer! Updates will be posted as soon as I can, which at my current pace... Thanks, Eric
  14. Still hard at work on the LEE, however I wanted to share a build with you of a Russian 3rd Gen Nuclear Attack Submarine. This is a High Quality resin Kit from Ships-n-Such from Russia. For those who do not know most of my adult life was spent chasing or being chased by Russian subs. I love'em!!! Before you close this topic as "Resin kit? Really? I've built the battle of Trafalgar out of one log," I might suggest you give a resin sub a whirl. There is more detail on a submarine than you think. Remember in a modern sub, anything on the hull could make noise, so we must come up with ways to make cleats rote into the hull, capstans lower to deck level, chocks are removable. Heck the who darn thing is coated in rubber! So here you see the Ships-n-Such 1/350 scale Russian Project 971 (NATO Code Name AKULA.) A little bit of confusion here. In the Russian Navy the Akula is called the PIKE Class. In the Russian navy the huge SSBN TYPHOON as it is known to NATO is called the AKULA. Ok take some time with that. First thing you notice on these late 2nd, 3rd and 4th gen Russian boast is the long stern. This is called the Hogner Stern. So don't cut it off!. Take some time and look over the hull a few times, note the many little boxes and lines that cover the hull. Unlike American submarines and their single hull design, Russian subs are double hulled. (Typhoon has 4 hulls.) It is because of this double hull design that many access points must be built to allow repair and maintenance work between the hulls. So you have looked at all the neat little do-dads, keep them in mind because you might have to remake them! Resin kits are made with a pressure pot or the spin method. These methods remove air and allow resin to completely fill the rubber molds. Molds for the Akula are two piece units. The halves are fit together and resin poured in and pressurized or spun. This can sometimes cause resin to run from one side of the mold to the next creating a lip of unwanted material. This is also caused when heat from the curing resin breaks down the mold. No big deal, but be careful!! The obvious way to remove this mold line is sanding...right? Well yes, but you need to plan and use the ultimate in patience or you could really spoil the look of your hull. Remember a modern sub hull is round. If you sand the side flat, you no longer have a round submarine with is what you wanted in the first place. I take some model putty and place under or over the lip at the parting line. This is NOT to fill in the lip. If you did that you would have a great parting line but an out of shape hull. The putty is used to let me know when I have sanded the right amount as have still maintained my hull shape. I tell myself, "Green-Gone-Good." It is a slow process, but the results will give you a mean looking underwater killer. Next installment we will get some parts on and make a few extra details and make some decals. Stay tuned!!
×
×
  • Create New...