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SUBMARINES OF WORLD WAR TWO: Design, Development, and Operations Erminio Bagnasco Seaforth Books, 2018 288 pages, 24.5 cm x 26.5 cm Suggested Retail: GBP40.00 When was in middle school, way back in the day, some of my favorite books to check out from the library were books about military hardware -- planes, ships, etc. -- that were broad surveys of different types and included lots of pictures. I still enjoy such books today. Submarines of World War Two fits that description nicely, although it is (happily) more detailed in its descriptions than a middle-school book. Originally published in 1973, this book is literally a survey of just about every class and variant of submarine deployed by every WWII combatant, from major powers like Germany right on down to the smaller fleets of lesser combatants such as Latvia. Neutral countries are covered, too. First written in Italian, the English edition is very readable and gives very few hints of being a translated work. The book begins with a 32-page introduction that covers the origins of submarines, their subsequent development, and their coming of age as significant weapons of war during WWI. This portion of the book is well-written and worth reading in its own right, so don't skip the introduction in this work! The main portion of the book is divided into two sections, the first and necessarily larger section covering the major combatants, and the second devoted to lesser and neutral powers. Within each section, countries are presented in alphabetical order, and the various classes of boats are presented in the order in which they were first built. Each country is introduced with a short overview that cover various aspects of its development of submarines and use of them during the war. The description of each class of submarine begins with a wealth of statistical data, including number of boats in the class, names, dates and locations of builds, dimensions, complement, and performance data. The design and development of each class is discussed and its significant contributions are covered. The final disposition of every boat in the class is listed, and, if lost, the means by which it was lost is given. In some cases, as for instance with Germany's Type VII boats, these lists can be very lengthy -- a grim reminder of the appalling human cost of WWII submarine warfare. Submarines of World War Two is printed on glossy stock and profusely illustrated with line drawings (in the form of cross-sections and outboard and inboard profiles) and black-and-white photographs. It rewards the casual page-turner as well as the serious student of naval history. I think that I can safely say that the casual fan of WWII naval operations is broadly familiar with Kriegsmarine submarine efforts during the Battle of the Atlantic, and possibly to a lesser extent with U.S. operations in the Pacific. This book was, for me at least, a real treat in that it describes the not inconsiderable submarine operations of the other combatants, who don't generally get nearly as much ink in big-picture descriptions of the larger conflict. For this focused treatment alone, Submarines of World War Two is a worthy addition to the libraries of submarine fans everywhere.
Hi all Wanted to put in a review of Spanish frigate diana This is my second build the first being the starter kit amati adventure beginner kit from modellers central . I found it has great plans with step by step instructions,up to 108 pages and then 3 other huge a3 or larger sail , mast and rigging plans double sided . The other thing i liked is heaps of materials eg timbers. Overall i just think this occre kit is great Thanks all. Ps : this is where I'm at.
In 2010 I started a blog on this first build. The blog continued for perhaps 6 months when model ended up behind cupboard doors next to the Christmas tree decorations and a pile of books on boat building and rigging. Last week the hull found its way back to the building board for final stage of planking. . After three years of abstinence I had to get it all back in my fingers again; wood bending and cutting, doing all the checks before application of glue, getting it right My old MSW account and blog are gone, but I still got the pictures: Purchased by my dad somewhere in the eighties The instruction drawing, the big white area pretty much sums up the Corel planking instructions; must have left my dad with a huge question mark above his head and perhaps explains why it took a next generation to muster the courage to add glue to the various components - with inspiration derived from internet, especially MSW. I suppose Corel must have taken note of the work of Frederick af Chapman. Fredrik Henrik af Chapman http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fredrik_Henrik_af_Chapman the Ketch, no. 3 in Chapmans' Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, published in 1768. The book contained 62 illustrations of ships and smaller vessels, both Swedish and foreign designs. Some of these were Chapman's own designs, but many were also types that he had seen during visits to foreign countries. Everything from large warships to small fishing vessels were represented (Source: wikipedia). Set up of frames Solid Surinam hardwood handle keeping everything in check [ Many planking instructions suggest you should divide the space over the frames evenly according to the number of planks and then taper and hang the planks accordingly,thats what I did with the first layer of planking. Its wrong. With 5 mm planks the planks decide how they run, they are too narrow to allow for spiling, only with wide enough planks (planks which allow for spiling) the planker may devide the space according to his will looks like its made of match sticks But add filler and sand it all down, and youre ok.. with first layer, that is addition of false stems and keel (not included in kit), made from oak Problem: the instructed planking scheme for the second layer does not match the dimensions of the first layer as defined by the frames, I therefore find it necessary to heighten the bull warks therewith altering the the side profile / the run of the gunwale. And commence planking of second layer, I then find this picture on the internet... A revelation: planks do not necessary end at the bow but may turn upward and form "saddlebags" underneath the whales. Saddlebag After completion of the saddlebags (the segments which require dropplanks) I commenced at the keel with the lower concave sections (the sections which require stealers). . I let the first planks envelop the stem The two sections meet at the one plank which connects straight and free from bow to stern Another important find is that all you need for woodbending is a glass of water and a candle Stick the end of the wood in the glass, and let it soak until its wet about 3 cm above the water, then you know its soaked enough...then hold it above the candle and bend it, you will feel the wood give in. Dont overbend it, you cant bend it back. If the wood burns easily it probably means you did not soak long enough. If the wood dries up on the outside while heating use a brush to keep the wood wet on the outside of the bend. Do not only bend the wood but give it the right twist at the same time.. to ensure stress free gluing... for each and every plank.. [to be continued]
Hi, Could you please point out the major differences, maybe some pros and cons of the Santisima Trinidad kits from Occre and DeAgostini? I'm particularly interested in quality of parts and cuts, historical accuracy, planking (single or double), difficulty and your overall score. Thank you very much for taking the time to do this!