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Found 6 results

  1. I've just made my first rope on my new Syren Rope Rocket and thought I'd share my experiences. First thing to say is that I was delighted with the result. I'd had a little previous experience with the more basic 'handraulic' version from Model Expo so I had some idea how to make rope, but even so I was surprised just how well my first efforts turned out. The line on the left was my first effort - three single strands of the thread Chuck supplied with the kit producing 10' of 0.67mm/0.026" rope. The one on the right has 9 strands of the same thread. You can put multiple strands on the Rope Rocket, so I tried 3 strands between each pair of hooks. Apart from a minute or two more to set up, it takes no longer to produce 9 strand than 3 strand material. The resulting rope was just over 1.2mm/0.047". A few suggested Do's & Dont's from my experience so far: Do watch Chuck's videos (on the Syren website and YouTube). They're excellent, and I learned more from them than umpteen written descriptions of rope making. Do take the time to clean off the laser char and varnish the headstock and tailstock. The cherry is a fine wood and it would be a shame not to bring out the best in it. Don't do what I did, and varnish the ropewalk after assembly. I did this, and despite my best efforts I gummed up some of the moving parts. Easily sorted, but avoidable. It would have also been much easier to varnish the parts before assembly, but I was too impatient! Also don't get varnish on the underside of the assemblies, or if you do clean it off. I've found a lot of the art of rope making lies in getting a feel for how the headstock or tailstock wants to 'walk' along the table as you spin up the ropewalk, and to do that they need to be able to slide freely. Do make sure you've got some very small hex keys (aka allen keys). I struggled to find one for the very smallest set screws. Until I eventually found one (1.3mm) I had to make do with a jeweller's screwdriver (the size used for adjusting the tiny screws in spectacles) but I wouldn't recommend that as it might distort the set screws. Do follow Chuck's advice in the instructions and use a strong epoxy or a CA with good gap filling properties to stick the eye screws into the brass tubes in the headstock. This is the only part of the construction that makes me a bit nervous, as the fit is quite loose and the eye screws come under considerable tension. I've had no problems so far, but eventually I might replace the tube/eye screw arrangement with a single length of solid brass, with one end fashioned into a hook. Incidentally, like Chuck I opened up the eye screws slightly, making it much easier to set up the thread. However unlike Chuck I opened them before fixing them in place, as I was worried that too much twisting with pliers might weaken the glue joint. Do check that everything spins freely when assembled. I found that the big central gear in the headstock tended to rub slightly against the washers under the smaller gears. This might be a result of some mistake on my part, but its something others might want to check for themselves. I found that an appropriately sized washer glued to the face of the headstock brought the big gear out just far enough to engage nicely with the small gears. Do watch Chuck's videos again! In summary, I'm delighted with the Rope Rocket and the rope it produces and would highly recommend it. I'm off now to experiment with different threads, 4-ply rope & etc. I've also got Chuck's Serv-o-Matic and am lookking forward to my first foray into serving. Derek
  2. I acquired two old pencil sharpeners and while looking them over I suddenly saw a ropewalk conversion project in my future. Seems all it needs is an addition to the hub end to connect the three lines. This will not be for some time but thought I'd share the idea and would appreciate any comments. pencil_sharpener_1.mp4
  3. This is a mini review of Alexey Domanoff's Planetary Ropewalk. First, let me say I'm very pleased with the ropewalk and how well it works. I've made a few changes that suite my needs, more on them later. Mine took about a month to arrive from Belarus. Alexey said that normal shipping is seven to ten days, I think the X-mas holidays slowed it down. The machine comes in a flat pack and is to be assembled. I spent about an hour on the assembly of the machine, wanted to be sure not to mess it up. The machine consists of a base plate that is 15 1/2" long, 5" wide, and 5/16" thick, made of Plexiglas. A Plexiglas pedestal 1 1/2" long, 3/4" thick, and 3 1/2" high. The pedestal supports the main shaft which is fixed and is of steel 1/4" diameter by 5" long. Two 'Solar' discs 5 1/8" in diameter, and 5/16" thick are mounted to the main shaft with ball bearing races. They trap the gears between them and are the heart of the machine. A 'Sun' gear is pre-pressed onto the main shaft and does not move. This 'Sun' gear has three 'Planet' gears that mesh with it. They act as idler gears that then mesh with the 'Moon' gears. The 'Moon' gears are pressed onto the hollow whorl shafts that support the bobbin holders. The whorls rotate twice in the direction of twist for each rotation of the 'Solar' discs. Depending on thread size and the speed of the take-up spool, the thread moves from the bobbins to the guide bar in about ten rotations. Two all-thread rods, 4mm X 10cm pass through both "Solar' discs and support the guide bar which is made of 3/4" wide, 4" long, and 3/16" thick Plexiglas. A 12v variable speed motor with a rubber drive button spins the discs via contact with the outside diameter. The take-up is by a 12v variable speed motor with a gear reduction head, Both motors are independently controlled. A steel shaft is fitted to the take-up motor shaft, on which a take-up spool slides, and is fixed with a set screw. The control box has a main power on/off switch, an input for the wall mounted transformer, adjustable speed pots for each motor as well as a direction switch for each. The first photo is a overall view of the machine and a few samples of the early attempts of spinning thread into rope. these samples are of cotton and linen that was on hand. They started as "Z" or right twist. So they were spun into a "S" or left twist and wound onto bobbins to then be spun into a "Z" twist rope. Bob Wescott To Be Continued
  4. I'm really new to the hobby and just in the first stages or my model (Syren) and I have been getting the specialized tools needed for the hobby. I have noticed that several people on the site say that they have and use a ropewalk; but what's the point? The kit I have looks like it has nice "rope" (string) so why would I need a ropewalk?
  5. Izzy Madd

    S lay or Z lay?

    Hi, I'm confused by the talk of Z or S twist. I understand the differences, direction. What I don't understand is why? Especially after looking at some pictures of the Victory which I'm about to start. As there are clearly several ropes of each kind same size and same sorts of use. So when would which be used? Or was it a question of which way they ran the machine that day? Or would it normally be one for ropes under a certain diameter and the other for cables? Any help would be gladly received. Izzy
  6. Got another delivery today. Model Expo need to stop having sales. I thought I might add a cross section to the collection which was a bargain for $70 I purchased this before I discovered the fantastic rope from Chuck, so I doubt I will have much use for it. you can never have enough tweezers. I'm usually stealing my wives ones for model building, and now she is eyeing some of mine off this evening. I ordered a few books from amazon too. I'm sure all the information I can absorb will help. Being sick in bed is dangerous with access to online shopping and an addictive new hobby!

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