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  1. Moving forward 1 1/2 centuries from my (nearly finished) previous build, this is the new Vanguard Models Sherbourne. Included in the box were a few extras; being new to ship modelling, I'd ordered a pin pusher and some crew who will, I hope, lend scale to the build. Seen here with cordage, detail parts and the instructions. Below the instructions and bubble wrap was the wood (and acrylic base). In addition to the instruction booklet, there are 19 A3 sheets of plans and rigging guides.
  2. HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne - 1763 1:64 Vanguard Models Part Number - VM - 16 Available from Vanguard Models for £149.00 (around €175.00) History From the publisher’s website: HM cutter was a 6-gun cutter of the Royal Navy. She served in the English Channel for her entire career, operating against smugglers. She was sold in 1784. Sherbourne was built at Woolwich Dockyard under the supervision of Master Shipwright Joseph Harris, to a design by Sir Thomas Slade, and was launched on 3 December 1763, having cost £1,581.8.9d to build and fit. Sherbourne was commissioned under Lieutenant John Cartwright, later to become a prominent parliamentary reformer, and was assigned to support the work of the Board of Customs by operating against smugglers in the English Channel. Cartwright commanded Sherborne from 7 December 1763 to 14 May 1766. His area of responsibility was the South Coast of England, including Dorsetshire and Devon. His brother George, when at loose ends, went with him in Sherborne on a cruise out of Plymouth to chase smugglers. Lieutenant Christopher Raper succeeded Cartwright in 1766 as Sherbourne’s commander for the next three years. Between 1769 and 1777 the cutter was commanded successively by Lieutenants Stephen Rains, Thomas Rayment and Thomas Gaborian, all the while remaining based in the Channel. Her final commanders were Lieutenant Arthur Twyman, from September 1777 until May 1778, and then Lieutenant Arthur Hayne until September 1779. She was then laid up. In 1783 Sherbourne participated in William Tracey’s unsuccessful attempt to raise HMS Royal George, which had sunk in Spithead in 1782. Although the dockyard rated Sherbourne as unfit for service, Tracey conducted some repairs and she was of some use. She was finally sold at Portsmouth on 1 July 1784. Tons burthen – 85 Length – 54 ft 6 in (16.6 m) Beam – 19 ft (5.8 m) Complement – 30 Armament – 6 x 3-pounder guns + 8 swivel guns The Kit Designed by Chris Watton this kit is aimed for the novice builder. This skill level is defined as follows (text from publishers website): "NOVICE: We have pitched this level at the absolute beginner, whilst still providing a good basis for more experienced modellers to make their own individual mark on the project. Kit design and techniques are all aimed to make this project as easy for you as possible, guiding you in every way to create a successful and beautiful model that you can be rightly proud of." The kit includes (text from publishers website): Laser cut and engraved parts in MDF and pear wood. Laser etched and cut lime wood deck with treenail detail 2 sheets of photo etched brass High resolution 3D-printed parts. Double planked hull in limewood for first planking and pear wood for second planking. Walnut dowel for masting. Multiple sizes of both black and natural rigging thread along with all necessary blocks and deadeyes Comprehensive, full colour instruction manual, along with NINETEEN plan sheets which include all masting and rigging drawings. The rigging drawings are designed to allow the novice to successfully complete a rigged ship. Features laser-engraved treenails on both inner and outer bulwarks. Dimensions of the finished build: Length Overall – 512mm Hull length – 284mm Height Overall – 484mm Width Overall – 202mm The Box The kit comes in a sturdy nice looking box covered with an A3 printed product label which is affixed to the lid of the box. Inside the box everything is very well protected by either plastic bags or wrapped in bubble foil. None of the parts arrived damaged, warped or bended. Instructions / Plans After opening the box you will see the instruction manual and the plans: The instruction manual is of high quality paper, fully coloured and has a spiral binding which is very practical if space on your workbench is limited. In addition you always can download the instructions from the website and have it ready on your iPad or other digital device. In the manual you have step by step instructions from the very beginning up to the rigging as well as a lot of useful informations regarding e.g. recommendations for tools, colors and glues you can use to get the best out of your kit. The instructions are supplemented by 19! A3 plans. Some examples of informations you can get from them: Overview of the laser cut parts: Detailed drawings of the model, parts and assembly: Parts needed for the shown assembly phase, clearly marked so you can identify them easy and fast: Some detailed instructions on how to assemble parts with all the measurements given: And finally the rigging instructions in such a high level of detail that rigging this model will be pure fun and excitement ... From leading the threads through the blocks ... and where to belay them ... and last but not least ... how to do the belaying ... The Parts As mentioned above, all parts are well packed and secured. From top to bottom we first have the display stand made of clear acetate protected with a thin foil; The stand has two engraved nice looking name plates ... Next there are three bundles of wood: Lime wood for the first planking, pear wood for the second planking and walnut dowels for the masts, yards and other parts like the hand pumps: The wood strips and dowels are of high quality, no scratches, bendings or fuzzy edges as the macro shots show: All the rest of the parts is precut/prefabricated. Laser Cut Sheets - Pear Wood Upper sheet: parts for the anchors, stern frames, keel and prow Lower Sheet: parts for keel and prow, rudder, stern counter and transom parts, companionway as well as some fittings ... Upper sheet: Rails, transom parts and counter, main wales and gunwales, Lower sheet: Rudder parts, channels, pin rails, timberheads, catheads, gun carriages, gratings and more fittings Upper sheet: Bulwark patterns and port lids Lower sheets: Left: Mast caps, posts for the swivel guns, pawl posts and bitts / Right: Spirketting planks, bulwark ladders and tiller arm The cuts and engravings are really impressive: Treenail details: Photo Edged Parts There are two small sheets with photo edged parts. Upper sheet: Mainly parts for the Chain plates, handpumps, eyebolts, hooks, belaying pins, stanchions, swivel guns, gun carriage center booms, anchor rings and lower boom cradle Lower sheet: horse shoe plates, fish plates, rudder straps and depth markings As well as all of the prefabricated parts the level of detail and quality of manufacturing is very very good: MDF Parts There are two MDF Laser Cut sheets mainly holding the parts for the skeleton. 2mm sheet: Building cradle, deck beams, false keel and keel/bow parts, support patterns, locking pins and the lower deck 3mm sheet: Bulkheads Plywood Parts There are three parts out of plywood. These are the left and right side bulwarks as well as the sub deck. The bulwarks have markings on it to help align them as well as to ease the process of fitting the bulwark patterns: This image shows the sub deck and the engraved lime wood deck which will be glued on top of it: Again the level of detail and the manufacturing quality is astonishing: Fittings and Materials These are provided in a little box so nothing is rolling around in the big box. All items are clearly marked and waiting for assembly in their plastic bags ... There are 3 sizes of natural coloured thread (0.1mm/0.25mm/0.5mm) and 4 sizes of black coloured threads (0.25mm/0.5mm/0.75mm/1.0mm). The threads are of good quality as well as all parts in this kit: The kit comes with wooden blocks and deadeyes in different sizes: Thimble blocks (2.5mm), Deadeyes (3.5mm), single blocks (3, 4 and 5mm) and double blocks (4mm) The 3 D printed parts are the 3 pounders, swivel guns, anchors, the chimney and the main winch drum: Finally we have the anchor hawse rope, parrel beads, brass pins and a small piece of black cardboard for the anchor stock: Conclusion It is hard to believe that you can get this kind of quality for so little money. The manufacturing quality is of the highest standard across all components of the kit. Following the instructions step by step and making use of the plans should enable everybody to achieve the goal of finishing the build of an extremely well looking ship model with a high level of detail regarding its size. As there are a lot of prefabricated parts the potential for frustration should be very low and that's what I am looking for as a beginner. Just looking at the parts and the really good instruction manual as well as the plans is so much fun that you can draw all your motivation from it alone to start and finish the model. In addition the build time will not be hundreds of hours so you can see the light at the end of the tunnel as soon as you start your build. If you are a beginner this kit will for sure get you addicted to ship modelling. For experienced modellers it must be pure fun as well and if this will be your first Vanguard Models ship kit I think it will not be your last one.
  3. In order for me to understand better the rigging practices for cutters of the 18th Century, I wrote to the National Maritime Museum asking if I could see some of the cutter models they have in storage, now that they no longer have a model display at the Museum in Greenwich. Nick Ball, the Assistant Curator of Ship Models, wrote back very quickly saying that I would be welcome to visit and could see all of the models I had requested which are now stored at the Royal Historic Dockyard in Chatham -- except for one which was stored in another location less accessible to the occasional visitor. He, together with Dave Lindridge the Store Manager, gave me a very generous amount of time to look at and photograph the models that they had taken out for inspection – during which they provided a lively discussion about their jobs and the models they were showing. In fact Nick said he was pleased to show visitors the models because it gave him more of an opportunity to review models in their vast collection. I asked Nick about permission to post my pictures and he told me it was fine as long as I made it clear the pictures were from the NMM collection. He also asked to be provided to the links of the photos as he himself (as a trained naval archaeologist) was very keen on the details and would enjoy any discussion that ensued. I will post the photos of the individual models under different messages, this post deals only with the first of the models. I just need to add that I am enormously grateful to Nick and Dave for their patience and generosity with their time for this visit, which for me was invaluable. 1763 cutter NMM ID SLR0510 First off is their cutter referenced in the NMM as Object ID SLR0510. It is described there as “a full hull model of a cutter (circa 1763) Scale: 1:48. The vessel measures 53 feet on the main deck by 20 feet in the beam and is armed with twelve 3-pounders. The model was donated unfinished and was completed in the Museum in 1960”. For me there were four main points of interest, apart from the fact that it is dated the same year as my Sherbourne. The first is that the fore belaying pins are arranged fore-aft beside the bowsprit. Gregor, Dirk, Kester and I have been trying to figure out how the belaying pins would be set given that the kit of the Sherbourne provides no plans for such a belaying rack. Each of us have provided our own particular possibility – with Dirk going for an arrangement such as that on the AOTS book of the Alert, and Gregor going for a rack right on the stem. I had made a rack that was parallel to the windlass. However, now I have seen the arrangement on the NMM cutter SLR0510, and, as you will see, the 12-gun cutter I saw had the same arrangement, I have changed my own rack accordingly. The second is that the topmast is fore of the main mast. I had understood that earlier in the century the practice was to place the topmast aft of the main mast. In fact the cutter Hawke (which I also saw at Chatham and whose pictures follow in a subsequent post) was the only one of these models to place the topmast aft of the main mast. The third point of interest was the windlass. The original NMM plans for the Sherbourne showed this type of windlass, and Gregor has already made one in the same style, and I followed his example – rather than following the type of windlass provided for in the Sherbourne kit. The fourth point of interest is that, like the Trial that you'll see in a subsequent post, the lower hull is painted up to the wales, and not to a waterline. The following were the other pictures I took of the1763 cutter, all of which will have details which will be picked up by those more knowledgeable than I am! Tony
  4. Hello all Now is the time to start my second build log since I have finished the Americas Cup Endeavour. I am more interested in warships of the age of sails so it feels natural to build Sherbourne as a second kit. The ship is not so big but still has all features of a period ship. The main purpose of this build is to learn as many skills as possible so I can not tell how the finished model will look like. I will scratch and replace many parts in the kit just to learn how to do it. The model will be of darker but better walnut than supplied in the kit. I bought it in a local hobby shop here in Helsingborg and I think it is Amati's replacement wood. As sources for the build I will use AOTS Alert, Rigging period for and after craft and other books that I find fits. I will also pick ideas from Chucks cutter Cheerful and of course from the very nice Sherbournes by Gregor, Dirk, Tony and Kester. I hope you don't mind I follow some of your ideas . Ps, Some of the pictures are to small. You will see the full photos if you click (open) on them.
  5. I found this book via MSW: It is privately printed (2011) which explains the wonderfully uncommercial title. It is however a very well written and generally useful book for anyone who is trying to move on from an out-of-the-box kit build. It can of course be used as an enhanced set of instructions for the Sherbourne; but it is equally valid as a good read with lots of nice photos and a source of useful tips for any ship modeller. There is an associated website with some downloads from the book: https://www.grbsolutions.co.uk and a contact email which is how I got hold of my copy.
  6. Hello all, after reading several build logs here I thought why not, so here is mine. This is the first time I've built a wooden kit so this will be a bit hit and miss so please bear with me. So far I've just dry placed bulkheads and bevelled bow and stern ones.
  7. Super detailing the cutter Sherbourne, a guide to building the Caldercraft kit, by George Bandurek. I published this book in 2011 and at the time there were several threads that showed photos of my build. These are not now easily accessible so I have resurrected some of the information. The attached pdf files are extracts from the book that show how I tackled some of the topics. I would welcome any comments on these extracts, or if you have bought a copy of the book (thank you!) then please post a review. More information on the book is available on my website www.grbsolutions.co.uk. Buy direct and you will get a signed copy! George Bandurek Shrouds.pdf Sails MB.pdf Cannon.pdf Anchors.pdf
  8. Hello - Thought I'd do a smaller kit so hopefully it will not take quite so long. The first steps done with the bulkheads. Next the balsa filler bits bow and stern plus a bit of support for the mast. The ply decking sheet dry fitted so as to lay the central planking with access to trim around hatches etc. It's good to see there are currently other Sherbourne builds going on at the moment so I'll be able to learn what to do. Thanks for looking in. Regards Doug
  9. Oh no - not another 'Sherbourne'!! Afraid so folks - and for the same reasons as many others. I'm a 'newbie' to the world of model ship-building so took advice by reading other peoples build-logs. So why this kit? It fits (loosely) with the period that interests me (anything from 1509 to 1815(!). It appears to be relatively easy (time will tell) but there is some scope for individuality (I think). It is relatively small when built (but I bet the 'other half' still notices it!) and lastly it is reasonably priced so if I make a 'cods' of it, I've not wastede too much money... Okay, hopefully apologies accepted so down to the nitty gritty... As usual with my modelling activities in other genrs I'll break it down into stages. That way, if I get stuck/bored with one aspect, I can move to another and then back again. For example, stage 1 will be the hull (logical) but stage 2 couldl be the masts, or (from the looks of them) the cannon trucks which might need a re-work... Doubtless there will be areas of disagreement, and constructive criticism is always useful. So... Stage one. Very much out of the manual... Framing dry-run Bow filler assembly Transom view initial assembly complete. Okay, day one (about 6 hours) complete. Next will be fitting the deck etc - which will also indicate some modifications to the hull... Watcfh this space...
  10. As the master studies finally reach an end (have to bring in the thesis next week) and I will have more time for the numerous hobbies, I have taken up the work on the cutter Sherbourne again, which I bought 3 years ago as a reward for the finished bachelor studies. Now, after three years of ripening I started the kit. It is my first wooden model, and I thought Sherbourne might be a good start, as it is not too expensive. As I forgot to take some pictures of the earliest building steps, I will just show you the current progress. During the first planking of the hull, I built some of the equipment (anchor, gun carriages and the gratings), but I have to admit, that I don't really like those gun carriages. It will possibly happen, that I do them all over again from scratch, as soon as I made a little CAD-drawing. The sanded hull. There are some errors in the 1st planking, but I hope the 2nd planking + whitening the underwater hull will hide them sufficiently. A lot of glue marks on the stern... Will be hidden under red colour I hope. Some pre assembled equipment. As already mentioned, I dont like the gun carriages. Regarding the anchor, I decided to fair the stock on the ends, as found in "Historische Schiffsmodelle" by Mondfeld. So far. As this is a weekend project, I hope I can provide you with more photos of new progress every week. I am looking forward for tips, maybe some encouraging words for a newbie in wood. Most of my modelling experience is strongly limited to plastic/resin kits.
  11. The following is the reconstruction of my build logs for the Sherbourne following temporary loss of the Model Ship World Site in February 2013. First posted May 6th 2012. === It started with a birthday present in January of £200 from my daughter. What could I possibly want that would have some meaning over the year? I suddenly remembered that as a younger chap I had really enjoyed rigging plastic model ships, and had had a long-time yearning to work with wood. So on to the web, find out about ship models. Amazon for books, found 'The New Period Ship Handbook' by Keith Julier. It didn't give much (any) detail, but I thought maybe the Lady Nelson would be good. So researched that. Found this forum. Many days reading the variety of experience. Asked questions, thought about the Chatham as well, tried to get it but it was out of stock, so bought the Sherbourne Kit. My plan was not to go for the perfection of the other builds, but to get a basic understanding of the whole process, as I knew I would be making some frightful mistakes, and likely to be a bit messy as well. How right I was! Read all the planking advice on the Database, how to make filler blocks etc, then plunged in. Bought the kit, checked all the parts, stuck the tiddly little ones into the bags in the photo, put the frame together. Thought I'd be a clever little so-and-so and follow Danny's suggestion of inserting nuts in the hull to take pedestals at some future date. Even lined the bolts up with the bulkheads and epoxied the nuts in -- ensuring no glue was caught in the threads. All well and good ... so far.
  12. Hi all so I thought I start a build log for my Sherbourne kit I did attempt about 15 years ago a model of HMS Victory a subscription one but I was young and was way out of my depth so give it up I decided to go with a modest boat this time after a bit of research I picked this model as a good start. Any advice or tips would be appreciated hopefully I can make a good job of it like all the logs I’ve looked out in here already to do with the model liam
  13. Hey fellow Builders! I've been lurking on this site for almost a year now and I feel it's time to reveal my work... or pile of poorly painted bent sticks. I would like to give my thanks for all the other Sherbourne builders on this site as it has been immensely helpful to see your builds! I started building this lovely little kit last August and have been working on it slowly over the last 9 months. It would totally be done if I wasn't working so much, I'm a line cook so I get home and most of the time collapse into bed. Anyway I bought this kit after doing some research, it came highly rated for beginners. I still couldn't have made it without the resources on this site or the books I bought. Most kits are just assuming you know what you are doing it seems. The kit was missing the maple wood for the deck so I contacted JoTika/Caldercraft and they mailed some out to me for free! The build is at the rigging stage... I've been a little stuck there and will probably ask for help. I'll just post these two un-boxing pictures for now and add the rest later in chunks.
  14. This is my first ever build of a wooden ship and Ihave taken my time before starting it.I have bought three books on the subject and found the last book which I bought 'Period ship kit builder's manual ' by Keith Julier to be the most informative and easiest to follow.I've read quite a bit of these books before I started my build with a great deal of apprehension.I don't want to make a mistake that cant be rectified so have also read the log's from other builds to see which way is the best to approach it and can hopefully learn from their 'mistakes' / learning curve. Checking off the parts against the list at first looked baffling but Caldercraft do a good job of numbering and naming parts. First dry fit of bulkheads with false keel and false decking to make sure everything is lining up. There There was a small dinge in the last bulkhead that had to be filled. False deck on and glued down Deck now held firmly in place and although not much to look at for experienced builders I'm chuffed with it so far. Now for filling the front and back bulkheads,this is the first one I've done and you can see the other side filled but not yet shaped. Hope I haven't made some glaringly obvious mistake so far,fingers crossed. Still not sure how to proceed when it comes to planking,for now I've left the keel and posts off as per other builds to make it easier but should I add the keel after first planking ,second planking and should I even rabbet for the planks.Seems there are different approaches to the planking conundrum. Thanks for looking all constructive criticisms welcome.
  15. As usual, once I arrive at the point of making a particular part, I find the details confusing. This time it's about the mast tackles. The Sherbourne kit that I have doesn't illustrate or mention mast tackles or Burton pendants. Similarly, the 1763 cutter model I photographed in the Royal Dockyard doesn't have any. On the other hand, one of the cutter models (1790) I photographed does show a similar tackle hooked to the base of the mast as follows: Furthermore, Petersson in his book 'Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft' shows what he calls a Burton pendant and tackle as follows (though I have added text to point out the difficulty I have with his diagram): This made me think it might be a good thing to set up mast tackles. However, the moment I started looking at this, I thought that the diagram didn't make mechanical sense. It shows the runner going through what looks like a hook without a block -- which would mean it would have to run through a thimble. When I looked up Marquardt's book on Eighteenth Century Rigs & Rigging, he shows the following arrangement: This is very similar to that shown by zu Mondfeld and is clearly more sound (to my mind) in terms of mechanics. Marquardt also supplies the following information about cutter rigging (following Steel) -- the last two paragraphs of which I am at a loss to understand: "The mast tackle pendants were wormed, parcelled and served over their whole length. Each was doubled, and the bight was seized to create an eye which fitted over the masthead. The ends were then spliced together, and a single block was seized in the lower bight. The ends of all splices were tapered, marled down and served over with spun-yarn. The tackle runners had a hook and thimble spliced into one end and were served over. They rove through the pendant blocks and were spliced round the strops of long tackle blocks. The tackle fall was bend to a becket at the lower end of a long stropped single block, with the ends seized. The long strops, with hooks and thimbles spliced in, were hooked to eyebolts in the sides." Here, I don't understand the terms 'served over' and 'long tackle blocks'. I also don't understand which 'long stropped single block' is being referred to as having the becket for the tackle fall. As a result I don't really know whether it's right to put mast tackles on, and, if I do, whether to try to mimic Petersson's diagram, or whether to go for the kind of picture Marquardt shows. Any advice, comment or other will be, as usual, very welcome! Tony
  16. Hi all. I have just completed my first wooden ship build and, as luck would have it, my second project arrived in the post today. I am hoping for an improvement on my first attempt and, providing l learn from my experience, l am sure l will manage it. I have opened the box, identified the parts and dry fitted the bulkheads. The wood looks in good order as, indeed, was the first project. This build will, l expect, take rather longer than my first as l won't be able to put in the same number of hours per day as l managed on build one. We are taking the Grandchildren on holiday Friday so won't be able to start in ernest untill we return. Best wishes as always. The Lazy Saint.
  17. Greetings! I have been hesitant whether to start a build log or not as I don’t want to jinx it. What if I never finish, then I will stand in shame in public instead of just hiding the object of shame on a shelf to be forgotten. Anyway here I am and I hope to make it to the end. This is my first build in 30 years so excuse my lack of skill and technique. 😉 I will try to recapitulate what I have done so far: After a lot of pondering what and where to buy I finally ordered the kit from Cornwall model boats in the UK. It arrived a week later together with some tools, paints and glue. While waiting for the kit to arrive I read all Sherbourne build logs I could find to be prepared. Upon unboxing the first thing I noticed was that the plans where big – much bigger than I have room for. Thus I decided to scan the plans and rearrange the layout so they fit on a A3 paper. Not many problems fitting the bulkheads but I had and issue were the #4 and #5 bulkhead exceeded the false keel so I had to sand them down so they are flush with the false keel. Member AH1973 had similar issue in his build: I decided to add filler blocks in bow and stern as advised by other builders. In the picture you see I had to add some more to adjust the shape of the bow. Here you see the false deck being glued. I think I was a bit over enthusiastic bevelling the stern bulkhead. Before I fitted the bulwarks I assembled a gun to test that the gun ports where in correct position. Fitting of the bulwarks. As Stockholm Tar https://modelshipworld.com/profile/427-stockholm-tar/ suggested, I cut half the way though all the frames at deck level to make it easier to remove them at a later stage. I decided to fit the keel parts after first planking. First planking Here comes a trickier part, shaping and bending planks so they sit nice, one next to the other. I was not so successful in tapering the planks correctly, hence the ugly bow. For the second planking I must be more careful. I experimented with stealers in the stern. At first I tried using the brass pins that comes with the kit which didn’t work at all for me. They bent very easily and did not sit tight. Instead I use reconfigured paperclips where possible and rubber bands and pins in the ends. For the big paperclips I used popsicle sticks. (notice the USSR steel ruler with price etched in to it in the front ) When the paperclips where to big I used rubber bands and blocks of balsa to concentrate the pressure. Need is the mother of invention. Clamping down a thin plank in the bow where ordinary clamps just slipped. I also bought some super strong magnets that I used in the end. Here I use wedges to ensure the planks where flush with each other. How to fit that last plank in a better manner? First layer finished and the port(?) side rough sanded. As you can see – not a pretty planking. Looks more like clinker to me. Dry fitting of the stem and keel. At this point I discovered that the keel was a couple of millimetres to short in the stern, in the juncture with the stern post. The reason I discovered, is that the notch in the false deck is smaller than the thickness of the stem. I cut recesses in the stem so it fitted better and voilà, the keel and stern post fitted! As advised by others, I drilled the holes in the stem at this point. I drilled from both sides to avoid splinter. For measuring I used a precision compass (Rotring). I cut a bearding line in the stem so far. Next will be gluing the keel and stem and then fit the stern counter. //Mikael
  18. Hi all I started making the Sherbourne about 4 years ago and wasn't particularly impressed by the swivel guns that came with the kit so ordered some Caldercraft brass ones which appeared to be about the right dimensions as those in the kit. In the last few months I've restarted the model (I'm sure like a lot of other modellers, real life sometimes takes over!) Anyway when I came to construct the swivel guns, I realised that I had only ordered 6 instead of 8. Fortunately I'd kept the original packaging and ordered an extra 2 from my normal supplier. Unfortunately when they arrived they were considerably smaller. When I queried this I was told that Caldercraft had changed the guns following further research to make them more accurate. Whilst striving for accuracy is always welcome, the brackets and handles which come with the kit I bought 4 years ago, whilst not entirely accurate anyway, are now way out of proportion to new sized guns. This leaves me with a dilemma but before I set about the task of making the kit swivel guns look consistent with the brass ones I'm wondering whether anyone has, or knows where I can source two of the original sized swivel guns. The original guns are 17mm long: Caldercraft Part no: 85005A 0.5lb Swivel Guns 1:64 C1790 I've attached an image to illustrate my point. Extremely grateful if anyone can help me.
  19. I have just listed my copy of George Bandurek's book "Super-Detailing the Cutter Sherbourne" on eBay in the UK. It's as 'Buy it Now or Best Offer'. If anyone is interested the link is http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/-/112326241142? I'll let it run on 30-day cycles until it's sold. Tony
  20. Well, I'm a little late starting this building log, but it's been an interesting model to build, so I thought I'd share my experiences. Hope it's helpful, anyway. I'm hoping this will be an opportunity to try out some new skills and improve my planking skills before attempting something a bit larger! First off, a quick look at the kit itself. It comes in a small, but really nice and sturdy box, with everything packed in very neatly. The instructions are much more simple than the instructions for Pickle (a more recent kit, I believe), and reading them through I was glad I'd built Pickle first. Nevertheless, having build Pickle, these are perfectly adequate. The plans are excellent, and give lots of detail, including step by step illustrations for the construction of the hull. Looking closely you'll see the the walnut ply used for the cannon carriages and capping rails has been cut out right to the edge... on the other side this has led to a slight split going through the capping rail itself, but nothing too major, and it should be simple enough to put right (I'll mount it good side up!) So far I've found that all the materials are provided with plenty to spare, just as with Pickle. [edited to restore photos, 11, 13 July 2017]
  21. Hi All, This is my thrid kit build on MSW, and I'm taking on the HM Cutter Sherbourne from Jokita/Caldercraft. This will be my second "proper kit buid" on here as I started the Mantura/Sergal HMS President kit, and gave up on it due to the lack of decent intsructions and plans included in with the kit. My darling girlfriend (known as the Admiral) exceeded all expectations and bought me this kit for our anniversary in March. As you can all imagine, I was very very happy with this, and ended up maxing out the credit card on designer handbag(s) for her! So why start now?! In the last month or so, I have finished my build of HM Mortar Vessel Convulsion from Caldercraft, and was planning on joining a few other members on here to start a goup build of Sherbourne, but the Tennancy on my flat is up at the begining of August, so I was feeling a bit dubious about transporting the kit if we (the Admiral) decided we should move on to another property. Fingers crossed that won't be the case, but this is almost a preemptive strike to ensure the model is as safe as possible IF we do decide to move. Fingers crossed that we don't - I like our little flat! If you're interested in my Convulsion build, then click the link below. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/8593-hm-mortor-vessel-convulsion-by-jonnyamy-caldercraft/page-1 So a kit bash? Because this is a special kit for me, I'd decided to make it is a little different! The main differences in the build from the kit will be: Replace Walnut planking layer with Basswood Replace Wales with Ebony Strips (if available) Treenailing of outer hull planking (to water line) Treenailing the Deck & Edge Planks Addition of Fife Rail around the Mast Rigging of sails (including all running rigging) Addition of Ships Boat Crew Figures (5 sailors max. 3 officers max.) Possible rebuild of the windless Replace White Metal cannon stock with Brass (white metal castings are terrible). So I'm about to buy the Basswood from Hobbycarft here in the UK, as they seem to be the cheapest source of Basswood strips I could find online. I will be using the book "Super - Detailing the Cutter Sherbourne: a guide to building the Caldercraft kit" by George Bandurek as my guide for the Kit Bash. I hope you all enjoy my journey in to the unkown of Kit Bashing, and tag along if you fancy it! Cheers Jonny
  22. After the tremendous help I received regarding the nature of the horse for the foresail, I find I have a further quandary. How to attach the foresail to the rail. I find the description given by Steel to be very confusing. He says: "Sheets reeve through a block made fast to the horse with a thimble, or, in some sloops, a dead-eye iron bound, and through a block at the clue, and so on, alternately, between the strap of the block and the seizing or dead-eye; then through the thimble at the clue, till the whole sheet is expended; then frapped together and hitched." I really cannot envisage this. It seems to say that the sheet is bound to the clue, then directly to a block at the horse, then to a block also attached to the clue, then to the seizing or dead-eye, then to the strap of the block at the clue then (after going back and forth 'between the strap of the block and the seizing or dead-eye') through the thimble at the clue and, when the rope is spent, frapped and hitched to the layers of rope so formed. I can't find a picture showing this, apart from a very indistinct picture from Cole's build of the Alert. I'd therefore be very grateful if someone could explain how the foresail is attached to the horse rail in this manner, especially if they could provide a drawing, illustration or picture. Just in case people reply after tomorrow afternoon, I'll be on a three-week trip starting mid-day Thursday 10th, and so may be unable to reply until I can find suitable wi-fi connections wherever I'll be staying. Thanks in advance Tony
  23. Another question while I try to figure out the rigging for my yards. I'm trying to figure out how to rig the topsail yard tie. Steel says the following: "Tie reeves from aft, through the sheave hole in the mast-head, comes down, and clinches round the slings of the yard: the other end has a double block spliced, that connects by its fall to a single block hooked in the channel; the fall leads through a leading block on the gunwale, and belays to a cleat or timber-head." I'm ok as far as the single block hooked in the channel, but I can't work out the subsequent route of the fall. Thus I see it as: So could someone help me as to how the fall would go to the timberhead? The way I see it is that if it does go through another block on the gunwale, there would be no mechanical advantage at all. Of course I may be missing something obvious, so that's why I'm asking the professionals! Thanks Tony
  24. I want to place a horse rail for the sheet of the foresail on the Sherbourne (English Revenue Cutter 1763). I have seen pictures of rails that run right across the deck along the top of the bulwarks, but it seems from a look at Steel's and Marquardt's books that the horse would lie quite close to the deck just in front of the mast. Unfortunately none of the models of cutters I have seen in the museums have such a horse, even though all the sources refer to one. Goodwin's AOTS book on the Alert doesn't show one either, although there is a tantalising reference in one drawing of the rigging which shows the sheet tackle disappearing from sight on to the deck with the caption 'secured to horse'. In fact the only one I recall seeing on a model is Kester's (Stockholm Tar) build of the Sherbourne. There he placed the rail across the fore gratings but I recall he was uncertain himself at the time of how exactly he should place it. My question is how wide across the deck should the horse rail go? My initial thought was to make it the same width as the one for the mainsail at the taffrail, but when I placed it on the deck it looked a little short at just under 4 ft (45 inches) full size on a deck whose width is nearly 19 ft. The other thing, of course is the height. I've thought 15 inches would be ok, but again am more than willing to hear from the experts. Any advice or wisdom will be gratefully received as usual. Tony
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