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Found 17 results

  1. How to handle fresh wood?

    On Tuesday we had a big storm in Germany in y neighbourhood a walnuttree was knocked down - today I can get some wood for helping to saw. So I'm going to help. For the work I'll be able to pick some of the wood. Due to the price of wood the do want to get for sawed wood in the internet I'm willing to invest a bit of time and sweat. But my question is how to handle the wood. I know it must lager for a timeof about two years to get dry. So that I can't use the wood imediatly. So I have to peel off the bark? Or shall I try to cut the branch in to quater or eightedge bar. They will be around 5-20cm / 2-9' diameter abd 30-50cm / 12'' - 18'' long. With a bit of good luck I'll get a bit thicker parts. I have only got a little table saw by Proxxon and an old scroll saw to cut. Hope you don't say after all this work: “Sorry fot you but just walnut has the wrong grain for 1/64 shipbuilding.“ Thanks for your intrest und help.
  2. my fourth Cannon model the U.S Naval 18lb. 1899
  3. My third Model the British 9lb.
  4. My Second model the French 8lb. 1803
  5. My very fist Model work! The German Krupp 1903
  6. Are any of you builders of small ships aware of a technique for bending woods like mahogany, teak, maple etc utilising liquid ammonia? It apparently plasticises the fibres of the wood so it can be easily bent to shape where it will return to its wood state staying bent. i would be interested to hear if anyone is familiar with this technique. cheers David
  7. I found this website during browsing for another thing. It has a lot of good info but also ideas of what we builder can built ourselves to help us in the workshop and having some diy tools. Specially lathe setup with a power drill seems interesting.
  8. The other day during last week, I made a visit to my local WoodCraft, to get some glue of various kind. A week prior to my visit I had recieved a news letter with savings, ..... put it this way, I paid 76 dollars for huge drill bit set along with five different type of glues, and saved almost 40 dollars. This is one of them, which I am very curious about. The Chair Briwax is to be used as a First-Aid for Ailing Chairs............. but then my mind started... Becuse this glues works as a filler as well. On the other hand it is not sandable according to what I have read. This is what the back of reads: ChaiRX Joint First Aid Glue by BRIWAX International works by penetrating the wood cells, swelling the joints and locking the glue in the fiber of the wood. The unique formula permanently swells the joints and bonds them together. I could see this glue to be useful when it comes to framing of all the ships of ours. I have to try the product and test will be attached later.....
  9. Hello to all - new member here.

    Hello to all. I am overjoyed that I have joined your hobby, having watched from afar for years and being one of those guys that becomes transfixed in any museum (most recently the Maritime in Barcelona) around any ship model. In any event, I have been assembling some tools for a few years and of course bought a kit or two that were too ambitious for me. So they sat on a shelf, un built. Recently, I took a step back and purchased some vintage kits inexpensively from Ebay. I am now busily reading "Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern " and Frank Mastini's book, "Ship Modeling Simplified." I chose and started a vintage Viking solid hull model (by Marine Model Co, formerly of NY) and am having great fun with it. I could not resist so I am modifying bits as I go - a bit of carving, I plan to plank at least the deck, etc. I may even tackle carving the dragon's head and tail as these are supplied, and fairly nice, but they are lead* and seem a bit out of scale, not that this model is meant to be a museum piece by any means. Still, as my first, Mr. Mastini says its the one I will always love so I figured I would modify it a bit. I also have to say, I feel a bit like I am liberating these old ships from their dusty tombs. This one, for example, sat on someone's shelf just wanting to be built, for the last 50 yrs. (plans are copyright 1964.) Now it will see the light of day. Anyhow, I really look forward to learning and maybe someday having something to offer. I am not retiring for another decade (at least!) but when I do, I hope to fish during the summer, and build ships all winter in Rockport MA. In the meanwhile, I do it when I can. I thank you all in advance for all you offer. *(yes I have already read about these old lead fittings before the advent of Brittania and how to preserve them so hopefully this will work out ok.)
  10. Hi there, I went through the topics of the board and saw that there are general issues in getting the right wood for building your ship model. My recommendation is to go to your local carpenter and see what kind of wood he is using in his daily work and which comes from the area you life. You can spend a lot of money in ordering wood via a retailer and get a glossy and nicely wrapped material. I believe that the beauty lie's in a non perfect wood. All of the woods I use are mainly out of the area where I live: Swiss pear, cubed pear, walnut, plum, boxwood (mainly from old graveyards) and many more. On the pictures which are attached you can see three different kinds of wood: Swiss pear, boxwood (approx. 450 years old) and Argentina Lapacho which I got from a turist who visited my Museum (e.g. the Lion is made from this wood). What are your suggestions? Best regards, Ivan
  11. Best woods for decking

    Hey all! I'm been currently researching about types of woods (and boy are there a lot of them). While I have a pretty good idea regarding what works best for planking the hull the options for deck planking seem a bit more varied. Holly seems to be a favorite, but I've also seen decks planked in maple, lime, boxwood and basswood. Wondering what people prefer and also what are the benefits/attributes each of these woods provide ie. If some require staining, pre-treating etc. Do they all look reasonably similar once oiled polished etc. Just curious Charlie
  12. How I hate sanding!

    I searched and searched. No matter I didn't find it. But I can't be the only one hating sanding and repeatedly sanding. With my current Longboat I found there is a lot of sanding of the frames in order to get them down into the dimensions. I couldn't believe the amount of wood to sand down. But I am getting there. Gee, how I hate sanding..... :P
  13. Poplar wood for modelling

    We will be cutting up and disposing of a large fallen poplar tree at the school where I work next week. This is the European poplar - very tall and slender - not the North American variety also known as tulipwood. Does anyone have a view on whether it is useful for ship modelling, case construction or any other purpose related to our hobby? Rob
  14. Many of our instructions reads: "after placing the first two or three hull planking under the deck, find the most natural way for the "main" strake. With my current project X, I have found not one but four natural lines for the planking strips to follow without twisting and bending. Should I follow them and add in the missing and twisted? I have divided the hull into three sections, and just following the hull line seems more natural to me. Again, just my two cents
  15. Outstanding wood for a baseboard.

    Greetings, While visiting Wisconcin last week I stumbeled across a great place to purchase the wood for your model's baseboard. Some of you may have heard of it, they are called "Timeless Timber" I'll post their story below. I purchased a piece of Birdseye Maple for a half hull of the Shamrock V, I plan to build, the piece of wood is loaded with eyes, it's truly beautiful... If you are in the area stop in and look at their selection of wood. Timeless Timber 2200 East Lake Shore Drive Ashland, WI http://www.timelesstimber.com/index.php Timeless Timber uses premium wood which is milled from logs that sank during the logging boom of the 1800's and early 1900's. These logs were perfectly preserved by the icy temperatures and low oxygen content of the waters of the Great Lakes. This is a unique niche business that has attracted national and international attention. Timeless Timber products are all environmentally sound, created by recycling a squandered resource lost generations ago. Unlike other mills that cut wood from today's young forests, Timeless Timber uses antique quality wood that has not been available in any significant quantities for almost a century. Timeless Timber is proud to be an environmentally conscious company. All of the reclaimed wood we mill is ecologically sound, and carries the environmental Scientific Certification Systems (SCS) seal of approval for 100% reclaimed underwater salvaged recycled timber. This means that none of our reclaimed timbers were harvested from current old-growth forests. We are committed to educating wood product consumers of the importance of using "sustainable wood products" and the benefits of reclaimed and recycled lumber. Underwater logging reduces the negative impacts of commercial forestry by utilizing existing resources more responsibly. We currently recover, reclaim and process two million board feet of lumber each year without sawing down one single tree. By recovering and reclaiming the vast amount of logs that sunk during the logging boom of yesteryear, we are able to help reduce the need to harvest existing forests to meet the current demand for wood. Timeless Timber logs are reclaimed without damage to wildlife habits. Every site is carefully assessed to prevent disturbing existing fish and wildlife habits. Timeless Timber gives manufacturers, craftsmen and artisans the ability to utilize this fine, old growth lumber to create the "antiques" of tomorrow. Timeless Timber has the same fine grain and texture as the antiques of 100 years ago, because it's from the same forest. The fine designs of today will take on a whole new 'look' with the use of this rare, fine quality lumber. Through extensive research and development, Timeless Timber has successfully refined its proprietary drying technology to preserve this treasure for generations to come. The mill is unique because all wood is cut to customers' specifications, such as violin and guitar makers, furniture manufacturers, craftsmen, and artisans. Anyone who appreciates fine quality wood the feel, the texture, the color, the depth that is present in fine antiques, will appreciate this treasure. Cheers, Tim
  16. Timber / Wood

    Hi. Just starting on my triton cross section and needed some timber. Found an UK outlet for timber and thought I would share it with the rest of me ship mates. http://hobby.uk.com/materials/wood.html For timber. http://hobby.uk.com/materials/metal/etched-mesh.html for mesh. There are other bits on the site that might be of interest to us. Got my order today and the quality is spot on. Postage was very cheep and was send 24 hour delivery. Regards Antony.
  17. Where to buy wood

    This area of the forum was a great resource for information on where to buy various types of wood. Let's rebuild that information using our collective knowledge and experience. I've given credit in parenthesis to those who have contributed the name of that source. Sources of milled wood (Australia): Modellers Shipyard (Shazmira) - A limited selection of sheet and strip stock. They also have kits, tools, and other supplies. Ships internationally. Sources of milled wood (France): Arkowood (TRJ) - Portal of the German company (see below). Sources of milled wood (Germany): Arkowood (TRJ) - A bit on the expensive side, but good for smaller quantities. All major wood varieties, including swiss pear, box, lime. Massivholzwerkstätten Horschig (Redshirt) - Good assortment of wood, high accuracy and good price. Sources of milled wood (UK): Hobby's (AntonyUK) TwigFolly (Marsares) JoTiKa (Marsares) Cornwall Boat Models (Marsares) The Model Dockyard (Marsares) Sources of milled wood (USA): Crown Timberyard - A good selection of the more popular species of wood for model ship building. Tends to be milled very precisely, to a smoother finish. Ships internationally. Wood Project Source - A good selection of the more popular species of wood for model ship building. Tends to be milled very precisely, to a smoother finish. Ships internationally. Itasca - Mainly a source for basswood. Their "Half Price" wood is still of good quality and excellent value. $20 minimum order size. 20% military discount. National Balsa - Another source for basswood, Maple, Cheerry. More expensive than Itasca, but they have a greater range of sizes and have lots of dowels. tallships_model_builder (themadchemist) - An eBay store with several items targeted towards model ship builders (eg. Deck planking and sheet wood). May be willing to cut custom sizes for you. http://www.northeasternscalelumber.com/shop/index.php?PHPSESSID=fbf4aea8bc5623641aa53ab405ec4c6a - Northeastern Scale Lumber Sources of rough lumber (Australia): Trend Timbers (1492) - Local, imported and exotic timbers. Anagote Timbers (Jim Lad) - Local and imported timbers. Named after a pet goat called Anna. Australian Furniture Timbers (BANYAN) - A wide selection of timbers. Avilable in 1 meter lengths. Sources of rough lumber (UK): Workshop Heaven (AntonyUK) - Various sized chunks of exotic wood Yandles (Kevin) Sources of rough/billets lumber (USA): Gilmer Wood Company - Mainly Exotic wood and much of it highly figured. The main species of interest for ship modelers will be boxwood, ebony, and holly. $100 USD minimum order for Internet purchases, no minimum for walk-in purchases. Ships internationally. Cookwoods (mtaylor) - Exotic hardwoods. Ships internationally. Righteous Woods (davec) - Domestic, imported and exotic timbers. $100 USD minimum order for Internet purchases. Ships internationally. Tallgrass Custom Wood Productsfff382 (Thairinker) - Domestic hardwoods. Located in Kansas, does not appear to offer shipping. Woodworkers Source (Sephirem) - Domestic and imported. Lumber is organized based on geographic region that it comes from. Sources of rough lumber (global): A local hardwood store - Usually a great place to buy domestic wood and some exotics. I have seen ebony and purpleheart at Woodcraft. A local hardwood flooring store (muzzleloader) - Mahogany, maple, cherry and other hard woods. Inquire about sales of remnants at bargain prices. A note on Gilmer: This is a local business for me so I am fortunate that I can visit. If you've purchased milled Castello Boxwood for your model then it probably came from here. They told me that they don't have a source for this wood anymore, but in addition to the large stack of wood towering over me they also had a bunch more in another warehouse. The Castello Boxwood starts out as rough 8/4 (2" thick) boards around 6" wide and 7' long. When the stock on their website gets low they pull down a board, clean it up in a planer, spray with shellac to bring out the color, then seal the ends with wax. They told me if I was to buy a board off the top of the stack it would be $30 a board foot (1"x12"x12") but that if I wanted to dig through the stack they'd up the price to $35 per board foot. Indeed, the chunks on their website were about $35 a board foot when I last ran the numbers. Ebony is tricky stuff as it all looks the same in pictures so ask them to select a board with straight grain, if you tell them it is for a ship model they will understand what you need. When I was there last they showed me how to hold the ebony to the light to check the grain for straightness. Also don't be too concerned if the description of Castello Boxwood on the website is "figured" as that is what they listed my piece of wood as and it was actually fairly straight. Not all wood can be sold to customers outside of the USA because of laws to protect endangered species.