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Found 29 results

  1. Hello to you all fellow builders, As you know , Mobbsie has ordered the HMS Agamemnon for me and finally she is in dry dock in Schiedam. I will not start on her . I have first finish the Le Mirage. But when you have a new kit in the house , you want to show it. That's the reason why I open a build log…... First of course a little history lesson and later on the pictures of all the stuff that is in the box. When I start on her I know I need a lot of help and advise from all of you. I have a few great examples of other Aggy's and I know that Mobbsie will be there for me if needed. So let the lesson begins and hopefully it will not take to long when I can start building her. Caldercraft HMS Agamemnon 1781 1:64 HMS Agamemnon 1781 64 Gun 3rd Rate Ship of the Line 1:64 Scale. The Agamemnon was one of seven ships built to the same design, drawn by the same naval architect that designed the famous Victory, Sir Thomas Slade. Agamemnon was the third to be built in the class, the first two being Ardent in 1762 and Raisonnable, laid down in 1763. Third was Agamemnon, followed by Belliqueux in 1778, Stately in 1779, Indefatigable in 1781 and finally the Nassau in 1783. A Third Rate ship of the line like Agamemnon was an expensive warship to build. The construction of the ship’s hull with yards and masts fitted cost the Admiralty £20,579 (in today’s terms, approximately £12 million), a figure that did not include ordnance, sails, hemp, copper plating and other hardware. For three of the most crucial decades in British naval history, Agamemnon always seemed to be at the centre of the action, having no less than eleven battle honours. Agamemnon’s maiden voyage was on 9th July 1781 under the command of Captain Caldwell. Her first engagement was at the battle of Ushant on 12th December 1781 where the British fleet under Rear Admiral Kempenfelt defeated the French fleet and captured a significant number of ships, including the convoy the French were escorting. Agamemnon’s next major engagement was at the Battle of The Saints on 12th April 1782 where Rodney and Lord Hood’s fleet defeated Comte de Grasse’s French fleet. On 7th January 1793, Nelson learned from Lord Hood that he had been chosen to command his first ship of the line, the Agamemnon. Although initially disappointed that he had not been given command of a 74, Nelson soon grew fond of Agamemnon. Nelson wrote to his wife, Fanny. She was, he said, "Without exception one of the finest ships in the fleet, with the character of sailing most remarkably well". He also wrote after twelve days in a storm in the Mediterranean in "Gales and lumping seas but in Agamemnon we mind them not; she is the finest ship I ever sailed in, and were she a 74, nothing should induce me to leave her while the war lasts". Even a French Commander Admiral Alemand expressed the view that Agamemnon was one of the fastest ships in the British Navy. That, coupled with Nelson’s inspirational command made her a very potent fighting unit. Nelson commanded Agamemnon, or "eggs and bacon" as her crew affectionately called her, until 10th June 1796. In that time Nelson had proved to be a great Commander, tactically and physically. It was during his command of Agamemnon that Nelson lost the sight of his right eye. When at the Siege of Calvi in 1794 during the morning of 10th July, Nelson was hit in the face and chest by splinters, stones and sand that were thrown up by an enemy shell that hit a battlement during a shore action. On 13th June 1796, Nelson’s broad pennant was transferred to the 74 gun Captain at anchor in San-Fiorenza bay. He watched the worn out Agamemnon sail to England for a much-needed refit. She was refitted from the bottom up at Chatham. When re-commissioned in 1797 she was ordered to join Admiral Duncan’s squadron off Yarmouth, which was keeping watch on the coast of Holland. She was immediately caught up in the naval mutinies of that year. Agamemnon was however considered untrustworthy by Richard Parker the leader of the Nore mutineers and had the guns of the mutinous ships trained on her to ensure she did not ‘blackleg’. Subsequently in the proceedings that followed all thirteen of Agamemnon’s crew who were tried were pardoned. Agamemnon’s next major fleet engagement was the battle of Copenhagen on the 21st April 1801. Unfortunately she was grounded on a shoal for most of the action, but Nelson won the battle and a truce with Denmark was negotiated. On the 21st October 1805 Agamemnon took part in the battle of Trafalgar. When Nelsons favorite ship hove in sight a week before, with Nelsons old friend Sir Edward Berry in command of the Agamemnon, Nelson was delighted "Here comes that damned fool Berry! Now we shall have a battle." At Trafalgar the 27 British ships of the line defeated the Franco Spanish fleet of 33 line of battle ships in a victory that ensured British supremacy of the sea for the next 100 years. Later in Agamemnon’s career, she served in the West Indies, taking part in the battle of Santo Domingo, and then in South American waters. Agamemnon was wrecked in Maldonado Bay off the coast of Uruguay on the 16th June 1809. Divers have recently discovered the remains of HMS Agamemnon on the bottom of Maldonado Bay, after a six-year search by marine archaeologists. Strewn around the site are hundreds of copper plate, as well as a 24 pounder cannon, parts of the pumping devices as well as a significant amount of shot, bolts and copper nails. Also discovered was a silver pocket seal, complete with fob chain. On its face of translucent stone it bore a star shaped emblem with the name ‘Nelson’ in mirror image incised in a curve above. Agamemnon was laid down at Bucklers Hard in May 1777 and launched on the 10th April 1781. Her dimensions were as follows; Gun deck - 160 feet 2 inches Keel- 131 feet 10 1/4 inches Beam - 44 feet 5 inches Tonnage - 1384 tons Guns; Twenty-six, twenty-four pounder - Gun deck. Twenty-six, eighteen pounder - Upper deck. Twelve, nine pounder - Quarterdeck. Complement - 491 officers and ratings. The Caldercraft Agamemnon kit features: Double plank on bulkhead construction, Keel and bulkheads are CNC cut in Birch ply as are all the major constructional parts. Extensive use of CNC cut Walnut has been employed for the majority of visible structures and fittings. The wood strip pack contains Lime wood for the first planking, Walnut for the second planking and Tanganyka for the decks. Ramin dowel is supplied for the masts and yards. Walnut and etched brass stern gallery windows, with the remaining tafrail decoration in finely cast white metal. Scale brass cannon barrels with walnut carriages. Rigging thread is supplied in natural and black to rig the model as depicted in the photographs. Beechwood deck gratings and Walnut Blocks and deadeyes. Shroud cleats, trucks, stunsail yard brackets as well as CNC cut Walnut tops, crosstrees, trestle trees, mast caps and a wealth of unique detail parts. Copper plates are provided to sheath the hull bottom. Fully detailed full size plans and a comprehensive construction manual. Specifications: Scale: 1:64 Length: 1300mm Width: 490mm Height 945mm Planking: Double
  2. Welcome to my log. Sovereign of the Seas was a 17th-century warship of the English Navy. She was ordered as a 90-gun first-rate ship of the line of the English Royal Navy, but at launch was armed with 102 bronze guns at the insistence of the king. She was later renamed Sovereign, and then Royal Sovereign. The ship was launched on 13 October 1637 and served from 1638 until 1697, when a fire burned the ship to the waterline at Chatham. Source: Wikipedia. Click here for more information. Enjoy. Sjors
  3. This area of the forum was a great resource for information on where to buy various types of wood. Let's rebuild that information using our collective knowledge and experience. I've given credit in parenthesis to those who have contributed the name of that source. Sources of milled wood (Australia): Modellers Shipyard (Shazmira) - A limited selection of sheet and strip stock. They also have kits, tools, and other supplies. Ships internationally. Sources of milled wood (France): Arkowood (TRJ) - Portal of the German company (see below). Sources of milled wood (Germany): Arkowood (TRJ) - A bit on the expensive side, but good for smaller quantities. All major wood varieties, including swiss pear, box, lime. Massivholzwerkstätten Horschig (Redshirt) - Good assortment of wood, high accuracy and good price. Sources of milled wood (UK): Hobby's (AntonyUK) TwigFolly (Marsares) JoTiKa (Marsares) Cornwall Boat Models (Marsares) The Model Dockyard (Marsares) Sources of milled wood (USA): Crown Timberyard - A good selection of the more popular species of wood for model ship building. Tends to be milled very precisely, to a smoother finish. Ships internationally. Wood Project Source - A good selection of the more popular species of wood for model ship building. Tends to be milled very precisely, to a smoother finish. Ships internationally. Itasca - Mainly a source for basswood. Their "Half Price" wood is still of good quality and excellent value. $20 minimum order size. 20% military discount. National Balsa - Another source for basswood, Maple, Cheerry. More expensive than Itasca, but they have a greater range of sizes and have lots of dowels. tallships_model_builder (themadchemist) - An eBay store with several items targeted towards model ship builders (eg. Deck planking and sheet wood). May be willing to cut custom sizes for you. - Northeastern Scale Lumber Sources of rough lumber (Australia): Trend Timbers (1492) - Local, imported and exotic timbers. Anagote Timbers (Jim Lad) - Local and imported timbers. Named after a pet goat called Anna. Australian Furniture Timbers (BANYAN) - A wide selection of timbers. Avilable in 1 meter lengths. Sources of rough lumber (UK): Workshop Heaven (AntonyUK) - Various sized chunks of exotic wood Yandles (Kevin) Sources of rough/billets lumber (USA): Gilmer Wood Company - Mainly Exotic wood and much of it highly figured. The main species of interest for ship modelers will be boxwood, ebony, and holly. $100 USD minimum order for Internet purchases, no minimum for walk-in purchases. Ships internationally. Cookwoods (mtaylor) - Exotic hardwoods. Ships internationally. Righteous Woods (davec) - Domestic, imported and exotic timbers. $100 USD minimum order for Internet purchases. Ships internationally. Tallgrass Custom Wood Productsfff382 (Thairinker) - Domestic hardwoods. Located in Kansas, does not appear to offer shipping. Woodworkers Source (Sephirem) - Domestic and imported. Lumber is organized based on geographic region that it comes from. Sources of rough lumber (global): A local hardwood store - Usually a great place to buy domestic wood and some exotics. I have seen ebony and purpleheart at Woodcraft. A local hardwood flooring store (muzzleloader) - Mahogany, maple, cherry and other hard woods. Inquire about sales of remnants at bargain prices. A note on Gilmer: This is a local business for me so I am fortunate that I can visit. If you've purchased milled Castello Boxwood for your model then it probably came from here. They told me that they don't have a source for this wood anymore, but in addition to the large stack of wood towering over me they also had a bunch more in another warehouse. The Castello Boxwood starts out as rough 8/4 (2" thick) boards around 6" wide and 7' long. When the stock on their website gets low they pull down a board, clean it up in a planer, spray with shellac to bring out the color, then seal the ends with wax. They told me if I was to buy a board off the top of the stack it would be $30 a board foot (1"x12"x12") but that if I wanted to dig through the stack they'd up the price to $35 per board foot. Indeed, the chunks on their website were about $35 a board foot when I last ran the numbers. Ebony is tricky stuff as it all looks the same in pictures so ask them to select a board with straight grain, if you tell them it is for a ship model they will understand what you need. When I was there last they showed me how to hold the ebony to the light to check the grain for straightness. Also don't be too concerned if the description of Castello Boxwood on the website is "figured" as that is what they listed my piece of wood as and it was actually fairly straight. Not all wood can be sold to customers outside of the USA because of laws to protect endangered species.
  4. I found this website during browsing for another thing. It has a lot of good info but also ideas of what we builder can built ourselves to help us in the workshop and having some diy tools. Specially lathe setup with a power drill seems interesting.
  5. all, My Halve Maen build was already on hold, but during our move to a new house in November 2015, she got lost because one of our friends put her box on the pavement instead of in our car. After that the enthusiasm to build was completely gone. I spent last year enjoying my other hobbies. But, as a Dutch saying goes: 'Blood is thicker than water' and the urge to build another ship came back. So, May I present to you the Spanish Galleon Nuestra Señora del Pilar De Zaragoza (Our lady of the pillar of Zaragoza), a Spanish Treasure Galleon. Measurements Length: 1110 mm Height: 970 mm Width: 520 mm History During the 17th and 18th centuries Spanish galleons served the Spanish crown as merchantmen and warships. Many of them sailed between Acapulco and Manila, transporting South American silver to the Philippines and exotic goods from Asia to Mexico, from where the treasures were sent back to Spain. Commisioned in 1731 and launched in 1733, Nuestra Señora del Pilar de Zaragoza (Our Lady of the Pillar of Zaragoza) was one of these Manila Galleons built of the finest Philippine wood, she was 112 feet on deck and displaced 1,000 tons. A 4th rate of the Cavogonda class, she was fitted with 50 cannon, two stern chasers and six swivel guns. She carried a crew of 385 men. For twenty years she sailed the route from Mexico to Manila and in 1750 underwent a complete refit in the Port of Cavite. In 1750, on her last voyage, she set sail from Manila bound for Acapulco. Despite being overloaded, and contrary to the opinion of both pilots and Master, her Captain insisted on weighing anchor at the beginning of September. En route for the Mariana Islands, in the Pacific, they began to have difficulties after sailing into a heavy storm, and she sank taking all of her crew down with her. Frames dry fit. Frames glued in place. Reinforcing pieces not glued yet. Frames glued in place. Last three frames fitted and glued. Reinforcing pieces glued. Close-up bow section Close-up stern section Enjoy and thank you for watching. Anja
  6. Hi there, I went through the topics of the board and saw that there are general issues in getting the right wood for building your ship model. My recommendation is to go to your local carpenter and see what kind of wood he is using in his daily work and which comes from the area you life. You can spend a lot of money in ordering wood via a retailer and get a glossy and nicely wrapped material. I believe that the beauty lie's in a non perfect wood. All of the woods I use are mainly out of the area where I live: Swiss pear, cubed pear, walnut, plum, boxwood (mainly from old graveyards) and many more. On the pictures which are attached you can see three different kinds of wood: Swiss pear, boxwood (approx. 450 years old) and Argentina Lapacho which I got from a turist who visited my Museum (e.g. the Lion is made from this wood). What are your suggestions? Best regards, Ivan
  7. Most of the way done on this build, will get some photos and notes here later...
  8. This build is in planning at this time, should start in the next month or two. I have the kit and have checked the parts and started to prep them for building.
  9. I think someone made a similar posting a while back, however I can't find it so here is my version. Soaking wood to make them softer for bending is always an issue. Some of us has a bathroom or another great nearby facility of water where one can drench the wood without being disturbed. Here is the material list: 3ft 2" PVC pipe 2" endcap 2" C-clamp 1/4" dual thread bolt. Two 1/4" nuts (used for tighten the bolt into the wood) Washer 1/4" large wing nut. To make sure the end was water tight I used silicon both when attaching the end cap to the pie but also around the "thread" line. I tested the tube, having it filled to the rim with water sitting over night. No water came out. The C-clamp literally snaps around the pipe. Setting the height towards the table, I drilled and attached the bolt. With the wing nut it is easy to remove when not needed.
  10. So with the rebirth of the site I have a new motivation to post my build log instead of just stalking everyone else's. I moved on to wood ships after branching out from plastic ones and got hooked. Since then Ive build the Phantom and the MS Mayflower. The Mayflower as well as Chuck's amazing practicum helped me learn a lot of techniques. And that brings us to...the Niagara! Im mostly done the prerigging stuff and am looking forward to making all the masts. I decided to make the cannon/carronades run out but ropes stored. I also decided to spend half a millennium making all the tackle for the guns. Another coat of paint is needed to touch up the oops and things but I'll be saving that for last as smudges and things will undoubtedly happen. And enough words...on to the pictures! My amazing ship holding device.... And heres where I am now, making all the parts for the chainplates. And in other news im still terrible at soldering. Blacken-it is my new best friend I feel like im not uploading these images correctly...any tips of how to make them smaller until you click to expand them would be appreciated.
  11. My grandfather, Cedric Bristow, built this model abut 40 years ago. He intended to add sails but, my father said, wasn't able to because his hand became unsteady due to Motor Neurones Disease (also known as AMS). He passed away several years ago, and I've inherited the ship, which is now in a rather sad state of disarray. I am determined to bring it back to the state in which he left it, and perhaps even finish it in his memory. I admit to having minimal experience with ships and shipbuilding - especially if you don't count having read all the Hornblower and Patrick O'Brian books ever written - but I am a very competent knitter and sewer, so I've got some of the finger-skills I think I'll need plus an idea of how much patience and persistance it takes to see any good craft project through. If you're reading this, I'm certain you'll have some advice you could give me. Please drop me a line to lend a hand!
  12. Hello to all of you... "Every voyage starts with the first step." is an old Japanise saying... so I'll step foreward in a brandnew terrain to me. The kitfree built I start is about a Nova Scotia Museum's Tancook Whaler built in 1979 and still afloat - last known pictures are from the Small Reach Regatte 2014 - - she was driven by John Eastman and Ben Fuller. My information is from the book of Rob. C. Post "The Tancook Whalers - Origins, Reduiscovery and Revival". The drwaings with in are very fine and - as I enlarged them they stayed fine. The planset can be found on page 62 and 63 the also scaled sail plan is printed on page 81. (If I'm lucky with building this schooner - I'll buy the Chapelle plans from the Smithsonian. So I decided to dare the first scatchbuilt with a small boat in a big scale.. so the result will be one foot long - as long as a modern Tamiya tankkit. It's a really tricky thing you do!!! My deference to all of you... ...modelbuilding without any even semi-manufactured model part... a completly new experience to a modelbuilder spoiled by Tamiya oder Dragon kits. So thinks differ a lot to plasic kit building. Okay I got it - the hull is bult upside down... and the bulkheads are rectangular to two planes - the baseboard as the the CWL. the bulkheads are slipped in the mortises of the baseboard - looking that CWL comes equal to CWL. I've bought some 4mm plywood for the innerhull (the stem and stern are 4mm thick. And I've got a flat 12mm plywood pice fore the yardboard I'll vave to fits everything on. I#ve found this very often in here - so I copied this. This is what I got by leafing through the webside. But now I've got some questions left: But how do I get the stem and stern to the basebaord - can I glue them to it? I think I'll have to look at every singe bulkhaead if it is open to the top my comparing with the profile drawing - and the drawing the new lineing in there - is that right? Thanks for your intrest and your answers. Yours, Moony
  13. Hello to all. I am overjoyed that I have joined your hobby, having watched from afar for years and being one of those guys that becomes transfixed in any museum (most recently the Maritime in Barcelona) around any ship model. In any event, I have been assembling some tools for a few years and of course bought a kit or two that were too ambitious for me. So they sat on a shelf, un built. Recently, I took a step back and purchased some vintage kits inexpensively from Ebay. I am now busily reading "Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern " and Frank Mastini's book, "Ship Modeling Simplified." I chose and started a vintage Viking solid hull model (by Marine Model Co, formerly of NY) and am having great fun with it. I could not resist so I am modifying bits as I go - a bit of carving, I plan to plank at least the deck, etc. I may even tackle carving the dragon's head and tail as these are supplied, and fairly nice, but they are lead* and seem a bit out of scale, not that this model is meant to be a museum piece by any means. Still, as my first, Mr. Mastini says its the one I will always love so I figured I would modify it a bit. I also have to say, I feel a bit like I am liberating these old ships from their dusty tombs. This one, for example, sat on someone's shelf just wanting to be built, for the last 50 yrs. (plans are copyright 1964.) Now it will see the light of day. Anyhow, I really look forward to learning and maybe someday having something to offer. I am not retiring for another decade (at least!) but when I do, I hope to fish during the summer, and build ships all winter in Rockport MA. In the meanwhile, I do it when I can. I thank you all in advance for all you offer. *(yes I have already read about these old lead fittings before the advent of Brittania and how to preserve them so hopefully this will work out ok.)
  14. The other day during last week, I made a visit to my local WoodCraft, to get some glue of various kind. A week prior to my visit I had recieved a news letter with savings, ..... put it this way, I paid 76 dollars for huge drill bit set along with five different type of glues, and saved almost 40 dollars. This is one of them, which I am very curious about. The Chair Briwax is to be used as a First-Aid for Ailing Chairs............. but then my mind started... Becuse this glues works as a filler as well. On the other hand it is not sandable according to what I have read. This is what the back of reads: ChaiRX Joint First Aid Glue by BRIWAX International works by penetrating the wood cells, swelling the joints and locking the glue in the fiber of the wood. The unique formula permanently swells the joints and bonds them together. I could see this glue to be useful when it comes to framing of all the ships of ours. I have to try the product and test will be attached later.....
  15. Hello, after the warm welcome in this forum and the interest on a build log of the "Amerigo Vespucci", I will start it now. As you may know it is an Italien sail training ship which was originally build 1931. The model bases on the Mantua-Kit, which I tried to optimize according to pictures of the real Ship. I started to build the model in 1994, but just shortly after the begin, I had to disturb the building due to job, wife, house building, kids, ... A few years ago I restarted building the model again. Some data: Mantua Kit scale 1:84 length 1,25m hight 0,75m In a german forum I have already started a build log of this ship a few months ago. Therefore, first I will present as an overview also the steps which I have done since this time. Unfortunately, I have got no pictures from the earlier steps, so I will start with a mostly ready body of the ship and show you first some detail pictures. Hope, you enjoy it. Best regards, Joachim
  16. Here's a kit I bought about 20 years agowhenI was in Junior High School. It was my first wooden kit. Needless to say, it was very rough arround the edges when I finished it back then. So, fast forward to today, I found it again at my parent's house and want to refurbish it. Now so much more is avaliable for refrence and my skills have improved a little bit too Looking forward to any feedback! -Matt
  17. Hey all! I'm been currently researching about types of woods (and boy are there a lot of them). While I have a pretty good idea regarding what works best for planking the hull the options for deck planking seem a bit more varied. Holly seems to be a favorite, but I've also seen decks planked in maple, lime, boxwood and basswood. Wondering what people prefer and also what are the benefits/attributes each of these woods provide ie. If some require staining, pre-treating etc. Do they all look reasonably similar once oiled polished etc. Just curious Charlie
  18. I searched and searched. No matter I didn't find it. But I can't be the only one hating sanding and repeatedly sanding. With my current Longboat I found there is a lot of sanding of the frames in order to get them down into the dimensions. I couldn't believe the amount of wood to sand down. But I am getting there. Gee, how I hate sanding..... :P
  19. The United States Coast Guard's official history began on 4 August 1790 when President George Washington signed the Tariff Act that authorized the construction of ten vessels, referred to as "cutters," to enforce federal tariff and trade laws and to prevent smuggling. Known variously through the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries as the "revenue cutters," the "system of cutters," and finally the Revenue Cutter Service, it expanded in size and responsibilities as the nation grew. The United States Revenue Cutter Service was originally established as the Revenue-Marine, and so named for over one hundred years, by then-Secretary of the Treasury Alexander Hamilton in 1790, to serve as an armed maritime law enforcement service. Throughout its entire existence, the service operated under the authority of the United States Department of the Treasury. Between 1790 and 1798, the Revenue-Marine was the only armed maritime service of the United States, as the Navy had been disbanded. Each cutter captain was answerable to and received his sailing orders directly from the Collector of Customs of the port to which his ship was assigned. Good records on many of the earliest Revenue Cutters are hard to find. I am using information provided on the USCG Historian's website as well as in Howard Chapelle The History of American Sailing Ships and Donald Canney's U.S. Coast Guard and Revenue Cutters, 1790-1935 as primary historical resources, and will mention other references as I move through the build. I originally started this build last summer and have gotten to the stage of planking the hull. I do not have any early photo's unfortunately. One of the earliest challenges was deciding upon the scale - the plans indicate that they are at 1:64 scale, while the instruction book is listed as 1:50 scale. Hmmm...first disconnect was figuring out which scale to use! If I converted the length on deck at each scale, the 1:50 was far smaller than the known cutters of the time period built to the Doughty plans. The dimension checked out at 1:64, so first decision point passed. Now I just need to be careful when i use any of the instruction drawings that are, supposedly, to scale for the build! Next was deciding on the actual cutter to build. There was no 1823 USRC Ranger (the kit name). I had a choice of several similar topsail schooners, but opted for the Detector. The Detector was built in 1825 by Fisher & Webster of North Yarmouth, Maine. She was stationed in Portland Maine for her career. I like the USRC Detector - my Admiral was an instructor for several years on Radiation Detectors, so thought it would be a good way to pay her some honors. Here, then, is my progress to date on the Detector. i work on her a little at a time when I hit a roadblock on the Harriet Lane. Enjoy! I had to re-plank the aft section as the original planking started to converge following the deck shape not straight from the foreward planking.
  20. We will be cutting up and disposing of a large fallen poplar tree at the school where I work next week. This is the European poplar - very tall and slender - not the North American variety also known as tulipwood. Does anyone have a view on whether it is useful for ship modelling, case construction or any other purpose related to our hobby? Rob
  21. I searched this area because I thought I saw this topic before. I was just experimenting and found an easy way to bend the wood lateral. First place the required piece in water for some ten minutes, then tack it down using paper pins onto a piece of basswood or boxwood. Boxwood preferred as it has tougher grain and pins won't move. Then use hairdrier to fixate the bending. Do two at the time, for port and starboard so you get the same bending angle.
  22. Hi Everybody, I started building HMS Victory from the DeAgostini wood build kit supplied in Europe (UK). I have been collecting the magazine issues since Q3 2010, but I only started the build on 31/12/2012, it's my project for 2013 I'll add some pictures below now, to show you my progress so far ... some eight weeks into the project. You can find a much more complete set of pictures of this build on Facebook ... over 830 so far and counting ... find them on the link at the end of this post. I have commentary with every picture in my HMS Victory Model Build set. I have built many kit models in the past, but they have all been plastic kits - this HMS Victory build is my very first attempt at a wooden model. I do not have a workshop or studio to work from, so this model is being built in my sitting room. I'm having great fun doing it, I hope you all get some enjoyment as well, feel free to critique/comment. The complete collection with step-by-step commentary can be found on my Facebook; I will continue to add pictures to both the gallery here, and my Facebook. Thanks for reading
  23. Hi, I thought you would love to know about this, Great little offer if you want to learn more from a DVD. Secrets of a World Class Model Ship Builder Revealed for the 1st Time ever! Here is the deal: Because we spent money on our website we need to recoup the money and have 43 DVDs only at this price. The Cheapest price we have ever promoted this DVD for. Includes Worldwide Shipping. Normally $69.05 Now only $39.95 until stock sold out. Go to the website to see. If you have any questions at all then please email
  24. Well, after lurking here for just over a month, reading, studying and absorbing as much information, my first kit The US Brig Syren arrived from the US model expo after over a month delay. I must admit customer service from outside the US at Model Expo has been poor, and shipping was extremely slow and extortionate. Packaging was substandard, and I just hope nothing had been damaged in the crushed, non-padded box. 1st step is to clear some clutter from my work spaces. They are not really usable for anything at the moment. I've taken a few quick snaps of the box, the contents, and other items I've ordered. I will wait until I clear a nice spot, and distract the 3 yr old before opening the box, and getting the obligatory shots and item stocktake. This is where I do my office work, and occasional gaming. It needs a major sort My spare office is currently set up building a carbon fibre RC 6 turn brushless 1:10 buggy. I will maybe pack this away and use this zone. A very excited 3 yr old wanting to build a ship Substandard packing, with crushed box, tape not sealing all over and some random fish and chip paper. No bubble rap to cover to precious contents Out of focus picture showing the Syren box, a plank bender, some spare boxwood planks, a hull vice, micrometer, and draw plate. And here she is. The Syren in her box. I'll clear a work space, organise my tools, get some sandpaper, blocks, glue in the next few days. Unfortunately I'm Oncall for Obstetric emergencies tomorrow, and trauma Thursday, so I may be stuck at work for the next 48 hrs, but fingers crossed I get to open the box!
  25. As I was to glue some wood together I was called by my wife. I had one piece on which I had applied wood glued when my wife called me, about eight to ten minutes later I were back to my doing and placed this piece on to other wood piece, they nailed directly almost better than CA. Besides without the issue of having fingers stuck as well. Clamping time almost instant. And reduced the drying time greatly, I could file the pieces after only one hour without them coming apart. Try this out, you may be surprised!