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How would you improve your Byrnes tools?


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Thanks Danny for the much needed guidance.

 

Keith - sorry for hijacking your thread. Let's now resume normal programming.

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Having used Jim's tools for a while now I would agree Danny's suggestions and add:

 

Saw:  Include a vertical feather board to fit to the fence.  Easy enough to make the board but the fitting can be problematic (well at least for me).

 

Thicknesser:  Fitting some form of minimum thickness control to reliably thickness to the exact same thickness repeatably without having to resort to manual micro measure between passes and hoping you do not exceed?  Maybe a similar device as seen on some bench drills? or, an adjustable screw rod with thumbwheel on top of the plate (between body and plate) as a stop?

 

Drawplate:  If re-etching perhaps add "Top" or some wording to indicate the direction the stock should be passed ( I learned the hard way :) )

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've owned the Byrnes Table Saw and Disc Sander for almost a year and have enjoyed their form and function from the first day. I have added an iGaging Woodworking Digital Scale and Readout, miter gauge stop, and a cross-cut sled to the table saw.

 

Thank you to all have posted review comments and photos on the tools they use. They have informed and inspired me (and I'm sure many others) during the purchase and use of our tools.

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Edited by welshipmodel
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Having read and looked at the examples of modifications on this thread, it seems that each person has his/her own preferences. All Byrnes needs to do is pre-drill and tap accessory holes of a standard thread on their machines, then everyone can then bolt on their own devices.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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  • 2 months later...

My other passion is woodworking, mostly furniture. I have been eyeing the Byrnes Table Saw and was interested in the titling table option. However my hesitancy is the actual use for I do not see how one avoids the problem of trapping the work piece between the saw blade and the fence or whatever one uses to guide the material through the cut. I have a right tilting full size table saw and it is absolutely a "no-no" to trap the  material between the blade and rip fence. Bad cuts or worse yet bad things can happen when one tries this. I have to move my fence to the left of the blade to avoid the trap. So can someone explain the Byrnes saw operation as shown in photos?

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  • 3 months later...

Well, after I got to planking the main deck (lots of custom width strips needed - same will be true for the hull)...I broke down and purchased a Byrnes Table Saw.

 

After a half hour in the shop I quickly realized I needed a splitter on this baby (similar to others listed here...but using the stock plate).  

 

So, I knocked out a quick and dirty splitter from a piece of carbon fiber (CF) sheeting laying around in the shop.

 

I cut the piece out on my saber saw and then used Epoxy to glue it to the plate on the under side (using two CF support pieces).  Ten minutes of fine tuning on the width and it works perfectly for knocking out precision strips :)   

 

I've got another stock plate coming in the mail.

 

By the way, I love this saw...incredible build quality and amazing accuracy with the stock miter (bought the extension arm) and rip fence.  Well worth the extra cash.

 

My thanks to Keith for starting this thread  :cheers:

 

 

Here's a picture of the modification (I'm a big Shark fan in case you didn't notice)  :D

 

 

post-17392-0-78601200-1453227935_thumb.jpg

Edited by thomaslambo

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

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Great addition.

 

Thanks and same to you  :)

 

And if I wasn't in such a hurry (needed clean strips ASAP) I would have made the attachment removable by drilling two holes in the plate and taping the carbon fiber supports so I could screw it in using the same size/type screws that hold the plate down (much cleaner).

 

I think a splitter might be worth Byrnes time to design and manufacture as an upgrade item?   

 

Well, off to the shop to build a nice extension table for the saw  :)

 

Gotta love high quality power tools  :)

Edited by thomaslambo

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

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I have a question for Saw users.

 

What type of blade are you using for cutting plank strips from 1/16 inch or 2 mm sheets (I'm cutting Boxwood at the moment)?  

Edited by thomaslambo

Boyd 

 

Current Build - HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina - Scale1:48

 

 

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Boyd,

 

Jeff Hayes (HobbyMill) has a page on his website about operating the Byrnes Saw, and it includes advice on Blade selection. I just checked, and the page is still there - don't know how much longer he'll keep it up now that he's "retired". Here's the link to the Saw blade selection part:

 

http://www.hobbymillusa.com/byrnes-saw-operation-2.php

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Hi Boyd,

 

Grants right about Jeff's blade selection article. It's a great resourse.

 

When doing cutting like you are doing I like to use the I-292 .30 blade.

Rusty

"So Long For Now" B) 

 

Current Builds: HMS Winchelsea 1/48  Duchess of Kingston

 

Completed Build Logs: USF Confederacy , US Brig Syren , Triton Cross Section , Bomb Vessel Cross SectionCutter CheerfulQueen Anne Barge, Medway Longboat

 

Completed Build Gallery: Brig Syren , 1870 Mississippi Riverboat , 1949 Chris-Craft 19' Runabout

 

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I use the same as Rusty.

 

:cheers:  Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

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I've been following Jeff's advice and I don't own a Byrnes Saw.  The advice, however, is solid and the Thurston blades do seem to last a long time.

Edited by mtaylor

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Hi Guys

 

I have posted this stuff on the Jim Byrnes model machines thread - i repeat her as it also fits in with this topic.

 

Shaft lock to make blade changing easier:-

 

 

post-17220-0-05098000-1454106089_thumb.jpg

post-17220-0-11304500-1454106132_thumb.jpg

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post-17220-0-70662800-1454106196_thumb.jpg

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Excellent idea Keith :) .

 

Changing blades, particularly holding the axle, is a bit of a pain with the saw. I tip the saw on it's side and use a "dedicated" pair of small vise grips (set to the right tension) to hold the shaft. Your invention would certainly make life easier :) .

 

:cheers:  Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

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Hi Danny,

 

Like you i found blade changing quite a frustrating process. My mod makes it really easy.

 

Keith

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Again stuff i have posted previously - copied here as it seems to fit.

 

2 devices for storing accessories - so they don't go walkabouts.

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Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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I find that the plank tends to ride up at the back when I am cutting thin planks for hull planking. It can be avoided but I decided to make sure by adding a device to hold down the back of the plank. It adjusts easily for height and horizontal position.post-17220-0-79787500-1454442944_thumb.jpost-17220-0-54373300-1454442963_thumb.jpost-17220-0-88148400-1454442998_thumb.jpost-17220-0-15296400-1454443034_thumb.j

post-17220-0-79787500-1454442944_thumb.jpg

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Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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I tend to find the slight taper on the back of the fence is insufficient when I am cutting thin planks. I know that some recommend locking the front of the fence and then pushing over the rear to increase the clearance. I prefer not to strain the fence. What I use is a .020 thick 6 inch rule which I attach to the fence using double sided tape. The inner end of the rule is position 1/4 inch behind the front of the blade. It works a treat.post-17220-0-17317300-1454443543_thumb.jpost-17220-0-46421100-1454443523_thumb.j

post-17220-0-46421100-1454443523_thumb.jpg

post-17220-0-17317300-1454443543_thumb.jpg

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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I have covered this elsewhere - but it also fit with this topic.

 

Self adjusting side pressure to push wood against fence. As an alternative to a feather board. It works very well and eliminates much of the resetting necessary with a conventional feather board.

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post-17220-0-91408600-1454612553_thumb.jpg

post-17220-0-77769900-1454612586_thumb.jpg

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Hi Richard

 

Have you used this email address <jdm@cfl.rr.com>. It's the one used to notify me of my shipment and I have used it successfully to contact Jim.

 

Keith

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Byrnes machines are fantastic. I've used other power tools for our hobby but none match Byrnes products.

 

In addition to some of the other comments I wish the sander had variable speed. I know there is a speed difference from the center to the outside of the disc but adjustable variable speed would be great.

 

I wish you could add adjustable stops on the miter gauge for the table saw. This would be a huge help when making repetitive cuts..... Milo

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  • 2 years later...

I use the micrometer attachment on the Byrnes saw extensively, however I find three aspects of it a bit frustrating.

 

Firstly and probably the most frustrating aspect is that I find I often want to accurately cut widths (or a series of parallel slots) greater than 1/2 inch. To do this I move the fence and micrometer in series of steps, this is time consuming and (unless carefully done) introduces errors.

 

Secondly I sometimes need the full travel of the fence and have to remove the micrometer to achieve this. Removal and replacement can be a bit time consuming.

 

Finally my eyes are not as good as they once were and I sometimes struggle to read the small 1/2" micrometer body.

 

I would have put up with these minor annoyances had my brother in law not donated a 2" travel Mitutoyo micrometer body recovered from one of his engineering projects. 

 

I mounted this on a quick release clamp which attaches to the edge of the table.

DSC08360.thumb.JPG.7bb1b3ffe0e6e123ae49a331a7e11dab.JPG

This gives me 2 inches of fence travel before I have to reset the micrometer to its second clamp position.

DSC08365.thumb.JPG.bb6f852081fe3c0de6fd0f3f82a895a5.JPG

the clamp is designed so that the second position is exactly 2 inches further out than the first position. This means I can get the 2" to 4" range by simply moving the clamp.

 

DSC08361.thumb.JPG.bb7a7e20de56604930076cb6e2592c4b.JPGDSC08363.thumb.JPG.34f2a0a8eba69bf85e7b014e7b222330.JPG

Removal and replacement of the micrometer is now very quick and tool free. The larger micrometer body makes reading far easier. 

 

 

 

 

Keith

 

Current Build:-

Cangarda (Steam Yacht) - Scale 1:24

 

Previous Builds:-

 

Schooner Germania (Nova) - Scale 1:36

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848-schooner-germania-nova-by-keithaug-scale-136-1908-2011/

Schooner Altair by KeithAug - Scale 1:32 - 1931

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/12515-schooner-altair-by-keithaug-scale-132-1931/?p=378702

J Class Endeavour by KeithAug - Amati - Scale 1:35 - 1989 after restoration.

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10752-j-class-endeavour-by-keithaug-amati-scale-135-1989-after-restoration/?p=325029

 

Other Topics

Nautical Adventures

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13727-nautical-adventures/?p=422846

 

 

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Three years too late on this subject.    Jim's tools are incredible!!!!!  The only change I'd like to see is to make the sander variable speed. I haven't checked recently if this has been done...Moab

Completed Builds:

Virginia Armed Sloop...Model Shipways

Ranger...Corel

Louise Steam Launch...Constructo

Hansa Kogge...Dusek

Yankee Hero...BlueJacket

Spray...BlueJacket

26’ Long Boat...Model Shipways

Under Construction:

Emma C. Berry...Model Shipways

 

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