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Anyone Use A Pin Nailer?


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If this is a dumb question, please forgive me.  I'm a newbie.

 

I was thinking about the first build I'm about to embark upon and I began wondering about using a pin nailer in model ship building.  The pins are headless and the holes it makes are practically invisible.  Pins can be as small as 3/8", at least for the pin nailers I own.

 

When I think about planking, something like this seems like it would make the job much easier.

 

Does anyone use pin nailers in model building?

 

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Julie

 

First and only build: Endeavour - 1934 American's Cup, UK Challenger, J-Class - Amati 1:35

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Might work in the larger scales. Try it, and report back. There was a Russian technique for building hulls a few years back that might lend itself well to the use of a pin nailer. Anybody remember that series maybe Dr. Mike? or that Australian fellow who studied with him for awhile?  Bill

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren

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I have seen a very accomplished builder use one on one of the Russian forums for nailing ply subdecks down.The builder in question is a master carpenter,so probably more a case of convenience rather than necessity.It's Alex Banarov that uses a staple gun when building layers of veneer on a plug as part of his composite hull building technique ;)

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Currently working on Royal Caroline

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Julie, I've used pin or brad nailers building bench work/track supports in model railroading, but I think you'll get way too much tear out in the bulkheads,  frames and planking we use in model shipbuilding. The air pressure you use with these slams the pin into the wood. If you have to realign your wood, it could splinter on you. I'd use a hand tool, like needle nose pliers or the tool I saw in the MicroMark catalog,(http://www.micromark.com/pin-insertion-plier,10735.html) to push pins in.

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Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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I can see a difficulty in maneuvering your pin nailer around on a crowded deck or even in the nooks and crannys of a hull only maybe not so much as the deck.

   I knew somebody would come up with the name of the model builder using that stapleing technique. Bill

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren

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As I've been going through pictures in the build threads here (thank you to all who contribute!), I've seen pins used to hold planks in place.  Those pins aren't much smaller than the pins I use in my pin nailers. Of course, the pins I've seen used are only temporary but some were pierced through a finished plank to keep it in place while the glue dries. And I'd imagine those pins are only used on uncooperative planks... thus the curiosity.

 

No doubt, it's not the perfect tool for model building.  I know from using mine, getting the pin to shoot exactly where you want it is a bit tricky.  So hitting thin structural members could be difficult.

Julie

 

First and only build: Endeavour - 1934 American's Cup, UK Challenger, J-Class - Amati 1:35

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I don't know what powers this tool, but the amount of nailing force needed on models must be very small. Can it be adjusted? Also, can it get into small spaces as well? Good luck if you try it. I would be interested to know the results.

 

Vince P. :dancetl6:

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Hi

 

I have used a pin pusher for the first planking, mainly to hold them in place while the glue dries. Trying to move away from this with clamps but still find it useful. Usually only push them halfway in and once the glue is dry remove with pliers. Need to add my signature but not great with technology even though that is the basis of my job. Building the HMS Surprise and some of the pictures show the pin holes and some of the pins in place.

 

Waitoa

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NO!  They work great for building full-scale objects, but the underlying wood needs to be thick and solid.  If not it will splinter and that pin will become a bullet.  These things are called a nail GUN for a reason and drive the steel pins all the way into a 2-inch thick fir board.

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NO , don't use these - they require an air compressor to deliver between 40-80 PSI.  Use one of the one's recommended by CANUTE or CHBORGM.

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I wouldn't recommend using one of these, they are handy to have but not for models. Aiming them accurately is almost impossible, when the pins hit material of different density(knot) they tend to veer off to the side(partially exiting or splintering wood), the striking pin leaves an indent in the wood( can be seen on the above matchstick pictures) and the size would limit use to almost only the exterior hull.

 I have also thought of using one of these in the past but quickly ruled it out due to these reasons, the biggest one being is that I don't have a model I want to experiment on. :)  ;)

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