English Merchantman Mayflower 1620 by RRLittle - FINISHED - Life-Like - Plastic - 1:250

[RRLittle]

This model has a very questionable pedigree. While visually based on the R.C. Anderson design, it really has detail and design more in common with the old Megow wooden kit from the 1930's-40's. This is my attempt to make it more like the Anderson version, which still exists at the Addison Gallery of the Phillip's Academy. It is also another step as I try to rehabilitate and rebuild my skills as a model builder.

To start, I needed to find a scale for the model. Like so many of the plastic sailing ship kits from the 1960's, it has no real stated scale (indeed, the box art even depicts another version of the Mayflower!). Based upon Anderson's stated dimensions in "A Mayflower Model" (Mariner's Mirror, vol. 12, 1926), 64' keel, 26' beam, a scale of approximately 1/250 was determined.

Construction began in earnest on 24th October, 2015. Initial construction consisted of making "timbers" from sheet styrene (an old garage sale sign). The two gunports were blanked as well. 

 

Edited November 5, 2015 by RRLittle

[RRLittle]

New holes were drilled for the rigging, chimney, and knights. Some deck and hull detail was removed.

 

[RRLittle]

The bowsprit needed to be moved a bit to starboard, about one diameter. The original mounting point was filled with a small piece of styrene rod that was glued into place with CA. Once it set, the area was filed, and the new mount drilled into place. A slot was also cut a slot into the beak's "floor" for the stem and gammoning. Some initial painting was done.

 

[RRLittle]

New decking was drawn using a hard pencil onto Avery name badge material. 

 

[RRLittle]

Here, the decking is stained with a loose mix of acrylic paint, finger-streaked.

 

[RRLittle]

Each section of decking was cut out, the backing removed, and applied to the sub-deck.

 

[RRLittle]

All decking down.

 

[RRLittle]

The kits capstan is the wrong design, as well as being a bit short. A new one was made from styrene, with a combination of sprue (for the core) and sheet (all other pieces). In total, there are twelve pieces, and across the bars it measures less than 3/8". 

 

[RRLittle]

A belfry was added to the halfdeck railing. 

 

[RRLittle]

Here, most of the new deck details are down. Printed grid paper was used to make the grating in the beak. A new hatch was added as well, using the same "grating". New doors were added using the Avery self-adhesive material. 

 

[RRLittle]

A new shallop was made using cardstock and CA as a filler. 

 

[RRLittle]

The hatch is prepped for the new shallop.

 

[RRLittle]

Cabin windows were opened up in the stern of the model using a drill and square file.

 

[RRLittle]

The finished shallop was attached using white glue. At each corner of the main hatch, small holes were drilled directly into the deck. Four eyebolts were made from 32 gauge copper wire, painted black, and glued into each hole. Once they had set, a length of fine khaki cotton thread was beeswaxed and then used to "tie" the boat down. A small drop of white glue was added to each eye, and the excess material was cut. A chimney was shaped from a piece of black styrene sprue and glued into place. The date of this image is 31st October, 2015 (Halloween).

 

[RRLittle]

3rd November, 2015 - 

Looking down on the focs'l, we can see that the opening for the halyard falls has been framed. The stem is added at the bow, and a small rudder was fashioned for the shallop, though it is unshipped and laying on the stern thwarts. Still undecided about sweeps at this point. 

 

[RRLittle]

4th November, 2015 - 

Hull painting commences. The decorative work was added using an old technique gleaned from McNarry and Hunnisett, painting on tissue and in essence making "decals". Not happy about some of it at the quarterdeck, but this will be partially obscured by shrouds. Wales were also added using the painted tissue technique. Hull color is Humbrol 29, Dark Earth Matt. Here, it has a sealing coat. Soon, it will be hit with Testor's Dullcote. 

 

[RRLittle]

The transom. There is no detail at all here in the original kit. To give you an idea of scale, the "marigold" is 1/4" in diameter. I have fumbled here; the upper trim was still drying and apparently moved a little. Also, discovered that there was still some white showing from where paint had been removed from the starboard quarterdeck railing. All of these little mistakes will be corrected before the next set of images, which will be taken with my regular camera, instead of these "in progress" shots taken with my phone.

 

[docidle]

Beautiful work as always Rob. It is always amazing what you accomplish in such a small scale. Looking forward to the next installments.

 

Steve

[RRLittle]

Thank you. Considering these little projects "practice"; I am trying very hard to rebuild my skills.

[RRLittle]

Final bit of work on the 4th November; hit the model with Dullcote and stepped the bowsprit. Also corrected the trim damage on the transom. Since the gammoning is really non-functioning, it had to be shaped and then fit into place. Mast color for this project is good old Testor's Flat Brown. There was a little bit of green ink bleed on the upper works, not far from where the shrouds should run, but still going to touch this up, probably by cutting tiny yellow triangles instead of painting (my hands are simply not that steady anymore).

 

Edited November 5, 2015 by RRLittle

[RRLittle]

I've had some matters that had to be tended to this past week, so there was a slow down. However, I have made quite a bit of headway in the past two days. Images will be loaded this evening.

[RRLittle]

Normally, I try to replace the flimsy plastic masts found in some of these kits with wooden ones. However, I've chosen instead to keep the original in this case, to my detriment; they are not only warped (as well as having a fond memory of being thus), they truly are too flimsy. 

The masts were painted with Testors Flat Brown with Flat Back tops and details, wooldings added with painted tissue strips, and then stepped. The fore and mizzen were glued into place; generally, I try to avoid that and allow the standing rigging to hold the masts.

 

 

I commenced with the stays. Here I made a mistake; the black thread I bought for the purpose was not a cotton blend, but 100% nylon. This made the work even more tedious, as I normally use white glue to set the seizings and knots. Instead, I had to use CA. 

 

Edited November 17, 2015 by RRLittle

[RRLittle]

The shrouds and ratlines were laid out on what I refer to as a modified McCaffery Loom, named for famed miniaturist Lloyd McCaffery, who designed the initial unit. Two 1/4" - 20 6" carriage bolts hold the whole assembly together, which also uses sections of a yardstick. The measurements on the latter help with positioning the vertical lines when they are applied. Here, very fine polyester line is being used, with 34 gauge "copper" (really copper plated) wire for the shrouds. You can see how the threads in the the bolts help to guide the lines.

 

 

The lines are glued down with thinned white glue (PVA). The loom allows for both sets of ratlines to be made together; simply turn the rig over once one side was down, and then use them as a guide to make the opposite side copy. This glue would also be brushed over each and allowed to dry for further reinforcement. Once the glue had set overnight, the ratlines were painted with Testors Flat Black.

 

 

Once the paint had completely set, masking tape was put over the lines on the bolts, and the ratlines were cut en masse from the loom.

 

[RRLittle]

Each completed ratline section was carefully cut and trimmed, and glued into place on the ship. 

 

 

Before this, the main and mizzen knight were made. I ended up making two smaller ones before discovering that the fore knight was actually hidden below the focs'l deck. These were still a little rough in this image. The matching ramsheads (not shown) were made in much the same way, using styrene sheet and brass wire.

 

 

Here is the model at this stage again, with a Testors bottle for scale.

 

[RRLittle]

The deadeyes posed a bit of a problem. On larger scale models, I use very small diameter brown card stock punch-outs. On smaller models, I use blobs of glue. This model fell effectively between those two. I decided to try an experimental method. As this version of the "Mayflower" used heart blocks, and as I lack an appropriately shaped punch, I decided instead to make two strips of brown card stock, one 3/16", the other 1/8". Down the center of each strip, I drew a thick black line, roughly 2/3 the strip's width. Then, 1/16" segments were cut from this, each segment given a triangular tip on the ends matching the height of the brown sections. These would serve as the backing for the deadeyes. The smaller strip (the 1/8") would serve as the mizzen and top masts, the wider naturally for the lower masts. Here, the smaller strip is cut for the assemblies. 

 

 

By themselves, they look okay from a distance. However, they are not really complete. Small sections of fine khaki thread were glued over the black sections; initially the outer pieces, and finally an inner line. This is the lower assemblies under way. White glue was used throughout, straightening as I went along.

 

[RRLittle]

Once all the deadeye assemblies were completed, each received a coat of varnish to seal everything together. While certainly not perfect, especially when scrutinized, it certainly is better than foregoing them altogether. Unfortunately, I discovered at this point in the project that the bowsprit was now pointed a bit too high. Sadly, not much I can do about it without scrapping the entire project. Have to live with it, I'm afraid. C'est la vie. 

 

 

Edited November 17, 2015 by RRLittle

[RRLittle]

A little video I shot explaining where I was at this point.

 

Robert's Mayflower, 16th November, 2015

[RRLittle]

23rd November, 2015 - 

It has been a few days since I last posted. I've had some problems with my Kodak digital, and lost some images, but I will catch everyone up. The yards were made and laced with the sail "robands" before the sails were added. The reason here was that the sails are made with fine tissue, and running them through would have been a risky proposition. The robands were laced in such a way that one strip of the fine khaki line that made them faced forward, and the sails' heads were glued to these. Once I was satisfied, the sails (which feature penciled details and a watercolor wash) and yards were glued into place. Three of the sails, the sprit, fore, and main, are partially furled, as in the original model. The mizzen is slung to the port side of the mast, unlike the original (vive la differance?). 

As I began the running rigging, there was an accident. A large bottle of glue fell over and knocked the model to the floor, damaging several yards and the running rigging that was in place. The sturdier standing rigging held up fine. I implemented repairs, but unfortunately they show (the fore top yard was reshaped slightly by removal of some rigging, for instance). After re-rigging most of the sprit sail this evening (still need to add the sheets and clews), I decided to call it a night. The model will not meet the self imposed Thanksgiving deadline, I'm afraid.

 

 

[donrobinson]

Amazing, looks real nice and at such scale. The video would not work, for me.

[RRLittle]

I am back to work on the Mayflower, though things have slowed down. Let me apologize for the images, however. Not only are they from my phone, my online storage site is being a bit cranky. Running rigging is underway. It is a combination of regular thread and 34 gauge copper wire. 

 

 

 

The mizzen lift was a complicated affair. It is a combination of copper wire and thread, and required very steady hands. 

 

 

More to come as I proceed.

 

Cheers,

 - Robert

Edited December 9, 2015 by RRLittle