Endeavour 1934 by Julie Mo - Amati - Scale 1:35 - America's Cup UK J-Class Challenger

[Julie Mo]

Just finished reading your build log.  I love listening to your thought process as you go from one Idea to another.  You are doing a wonderful job.

 

Bob

Bob,

 

I am sorry but I missed your kind comments.  Thank you.

 

I am indeed wrestling with how I will make what is in my head translate well into the finished product.  I could have just followed the instructions and used the parts the kit supplies but it would never be truly mine.  I guess I need to do something unique to walk away satisfied.  And what that always brings is challenges, sometimes more than what I had envisioned.  Somehow, in the end, I usually figure my way out but often I need help unpainting myself out of the corner.

 

Thanks for piping in, Bob.  I appreciate it.

 

Julie

[Julie Mo]

Julie

 

Your plan seems quite adventurous. If the waterline band is to look parallel when viewed from the side it has to be much wider at the stern (and a little wider at the bow) to compensate for the hull curvature. I think you could do a planked waterline of a few planks width but it would take a lot of shaping of the planks. 

Keith, I think adventure is in my blood, even if that often gets me into trouble.

 

You are right about the wider planking at the stern.  Again, something I hadn't seen in my mind's eye.  Feel free to open my eyes anytime.  As you can see, I need it and often.  Thanks again!

[Julie Mo]

I like that!

 

This is one collision I am looking forward to seeing 

 

Although I don't a great deal of woodworking, I've loved wood since I was a kid (both as a tree and material). I do very much admire the non-wood models you see on this site, but for me it's not the same.

 

All the best,

Richard.

Fingers crossed I don't disappoint!

[Julie Mo]

I couldn't resist trying.  The idea of the planking identifying all the lines normally found on a sailboat was too appealing to pass on.  I had to give it a try.

 

Where the push pins are more plentiful is where the plank needed the most help.  At the stern I steamed the plank to get it to make the bend.  It still wanted to pinch and buckle so that's where the push pins on the other side became necessary.  None of this is glued.

 

I'm going to keep at it until it becomes obvious, one way or the other, which way I can proceed.

[KeithAug]

Julie - good luck - its always worth trying and sometimes it works better than expected.

[captainbob]

Model building is like all other arts in that it is a matter of, "now how do I make it as my mind sees it?"  I so enjoy watching you go through this process and Know that what you finish with will be beautiful.  Don't rush, it all takes time. 

 

Bob

[Julie Mo]

You're right about it taking time, Bob.  The sliver of a plank in the picture below took me about 45 minutes to shape and it still isn't right.

When I cut the plank with a blade, it developed curvature, so to keep the curve I used planes to shape it.  That's why it took so long. 

 

My first attempt was to take a wider piece of veneer and shape it to match the profile needed at the stern.  It just didn't look right being one solid piece.  It has to be plank width to look right.  Going in that direction requires a paper-thin taper at one end.  I'll need two such mahogany plank tapers on the stern and one on the bow for each side.  For the darker wood, I may need more thin tapered planks.  I may go with sapele instead of the darker etimoe.

 

For the upper section of the hull, I have ideas of making the two woods work something like this:

I am not sure if it would be better to cut the long strip out after the diagonals are in place but I'm leaning against that.  The point and arrow, I would think, should be cut out of the diagonals.

[robnbill]

Julie, you might try the technique I use for finding the shape of the plank. I first mark off the hull at the frames the space I need between the planks. So if I have X number of planks at the widest part, then I also need the same number at all the other stations. This only would change if I have drop planks. The rule of thumb is a plank should only narrow to ½ it's width. If it would be smaller than that, there needs to be a drop plank.

 

Once I know where the lines would be, I use clear scotch tape, the kind that you can write on, and tape it directly on the hull over the area I want to plank. I use a very sharp Xacto blade to trip the top of the tape so it lays tight up against the previous plank. Then I mark the tape everywhere it crosses the marks on the hull.

 

Remove the tape and stick it to the planking material and use a french curve to create a smooth line between the marks and you have an exact template for the plank. Cut the plank out using the template and bend it according to the hull. Perform a final fitting so it lays smoothly along the previously attached planks and you are good to go.

 

You could modify this to use on your vertical planking if that is what you decide to do.

[Julie Mo]

Thank you, Bill!  The tape trick is perfect for what I'm trying to do.  But I'm not sure I'm following the drop plank method.  Are you saying instead of shaving the next plank to a sliver, to instead cut into the previous plank to accommodate the next plank?  With the next plank being no less than 1/2 plank in width.

[mrjimmy]

 

Hi, Julie...........

 

Watch the videos on the attached log that Chuck put together.  It explains the planking process very well.

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13850-chucks-planking-videos/page-1

 

Jim

[Julie Mo]

Thanks, Jim.  I've seen the videos before.  I just wish the camera was was seeing what Chuck was seeing.

[Julie Mo]

I think I figured out what the drop plank method is

Nothing is glued yet.  I've decided to glue the 2nd planking with hot hide glue so I ordered a warmer and glue chips.  

 

I did find the new method much faster and probably the correct way wood planks would be laid on a hull.  Thanks, Bill, for pointing that out.

[Julie Mo]

While waiting for the glue pot and hide glue to show up, the lifeboat won over my attention.

 

The instructions show to just lay the planks on the form and glue them edge-to-edge.  No keel or frames.  That didn't seem like a good idea so I took some of the planks designed for the 2nd planks on the hull and laminated a keel.  Instead of using the same dimensions as the form, I extended the keel out a bit on the bow and took the bow a little out of plumb.

 

Then I took an X-acto knife and cut a small dovetail section out of the keel and shaped one end of a plank to fit in it.  The dovetail holds the plank in place nicely.  Much better than nailing the planks to the form as the instructions call for.

 

The keel scales out to about 4.5" x 4.5".  The lifeboat scales out to a little over 13'.  I do not know if that keel is the right dimension or not.  I'll have to go with what looks good unless someone sets me straight.

 

FWIW, here's what the instructions called for:

[mikiek]

Hey Julie - getting a strake or two around the upper part of the hull is a good start. However, I would suggest that you then work from the keel upwards. That first strake at the bottom (the garboard on a big ship) can be a bear to get right and it is much easier to do it while there is space above it rather than it being the last. How the garboard lays will have a dramatic effect on the rest of your planking. You want that strake to lay almost perfectly horizontal. If it starts to curve up at the bow subsequent strakes will curve up even more and you end up having to thin them down a lot at the bow. The garboard usually does not lay as far forward as you might think.

[Julie Mo]

Thank you, Mike!  I see what you mean.  And I would have painted myself into a corner had not you alerted me.  One of the obvious benefits to taking forever to finish a model is getting advice like this before it's too late.

[Julie Mo]

Taking Mike's advice, I modified the keel to accept the garboard planks.  First attempt was freehand but that was too iffy.  So I took out the Dremel work station and set it up for routing a rabbet.

 

I used that tool with the steel shaft and black bell end to score the line I would rout to.

 

 

The depth of the cut was precise but I should have used a fence.  The cut is good but there were some "coloring outside the lines" errors.

[Julie Mo]

Back in the LABORATORY (like EYE-gor would say...) the experimentation continued with Dr. Frahkunshteen at the helm.

 

I took some of the smaller 2nd planking and thinned it out to something that would hopefully make it over some serious bends.

 

I then cut some rough length pieces for the lifeboat frame and placed them in boiling water.  That was easier than waiting for the steam box to fire up.  The first try wasn't pliable enough so I took the glass of hot water, with the frame cutoffs floating inside, and placed it in the microwave for another 2 minutes.  The tannins were bleeding out.  Ultimately, the wood sunk to the bottom.  Waterlogged...

 

The tightest bend didn't make it because I cut it too short.  But these did

 

The fibers broke somewhat.  They can be easily repaired.  But I still have the two tightest bends to conquer.  The bow has a complex bend.  It may require two pieces, glued side-by-side.

 

When you are making sharp bends, you need something like spring steel to back up the wood so the fibers don't break.  I have that on a larger scale but I'll have to find something much smaller for this job.

 

I AM having fun in the lab.   

[captainbob]

Back in the LABORATORY (like EYE-gor would say...) the experimentation continued with Dr. Frahkunshteen at the helm.

 

I AM having fun in the lab.   

 

Glad you're having fun.  That's what it's all about.

 

Bob

[Julie Mo]

Thanks, Bob.  I really am enjoying this experimental phase.  I've always been an experimenter and when things go right, you get a real sense of pride.

 

I didn't have a chance to work on the lifeboat until late but I at least wanted to get those other two frames bent.  I went back to the boil the planks in a glass of water and zap in the microwave method.  3 minutes was enough to make the lesser bend and, coupled with a press form, it made the bend pretty easily.

 

For the final frame I tried using the same technique but the plank snapped.  I cut another and zapped it in the microwave for 3 minutes and let it sit in the hot water another 5 minutes.  When I took it out, I pinched the center and began to massage it into a bend.  As soon as it felt stiff, I threw it back in the hot water.  I did this several times and each time it became more pliable.  When it came time to make the form, it complied more easily than any of the others.

 

I will let them sit overnight and hopefully when I remove the forms I will have a smile on my face.

[Keith_W]

Well done! That angle looks like a nightmare to bend. 

[Julie Mo]

That angle looks like a nightmare to bend. 

It was, Keith, until I learned the "massage" trick on the tightest bend.  When I was bending the others, I would push the steamed wood down firmly against the form.  I just kept going from one side to the other.  And fibers would break.  I didn't see it until I pulled my hand away. 

 

When I got to the last frame, there was no way that method would work.  So I put the steamed piece in between my fingers and squeezed tightly.  Then I gradually began to bend it.  When I felt resistance, I could feel that's where the fibers were about to break.  So I put it back in the cup of hot water and let it soak some more.

 

What I found was even though I had boiled the wood and let it soak to the point that the wood sunk to the bottom of the glass, it still wasn't wet through the center.  By bending it a bit, I think I exposed the dry wood.  In the end, that last piece gave me less resistance than the previous pieces, even though the bend was much sharper.

 

This morning I removed the top half of the forms.  

I was pleasantly surprised to find the sharpest bend turned out the best.  I guess wood likes a good massage.

 

I also made a 6th section of the form so I could add another frame.  

I didn't notice the little nib that needs to be removed until I saw this picture.  

 

Now I need to get out the water glass and zap another piece in the micro. 

[captainbob]

"I guess wood likes a good massage."

 

And why not?  I like a good massage too.

 

Bob

[mikiek]

Julie - I didn't see where you noted the type of wood you are bending. I ask because I've bent planks that much (maybe more) and have not had a splintering problem. Different method. I soak the sticks for a few minutes then use a heat bender - it's just a soldering iron attachment.

[Julie Mo]

Mike,

 

The wood came with the kit.  I think it may be a cheap "mahogany", something sold as African mahogany but is a very distant cousin.  I know Honduras mahogany, African mahogany and sapele very well.  This wood doesn't look or act like any of them.  It kind of reminds me of lauan but it's much darker and it doesn't look like it's been dyed.  Your guess is as good as mine...

 

I have an Amati plank bender that I bought with the kit.  I wasn't too impressed with it at the time and it got lost in the cobwebs of my mind.  Next time I will give it a try and see how that goes.

[Julie Mo]

I notched the keel to accept the frames so they would sit flush when viewing inside the boat.  Thinking using CA glue to be the best method of gluing the frames to the keel, I prepared the form by coating it with 5 coats of shellac and 3 coats of lacquer.  THAT should keep any glue from sticking to the form.

 

WRONG!

 

Not only did the skeleton adhere to the form where the keel and frames meet but the capillary action of the CA went almost to the outer edges of every part in contact with the form.  Fortunately, I had the sense to glue just one of the frames to the keel so I was able to pry it off with only a little finessing. 

 

Round 2:

 

Since the CA was sticking to the sealed form, I ran painter's tape over all the edges, just like the instructions showed.  When in doubt, refer to the instructions! 

 

I set up the remaining 5 frames and proceeded to glue them to the keel, believing I could easily remove it because nothing will stick to the tape.  HA!  It was almost as bad as it was without it.  What a mess!

 

 

Getting that tape off was a real challenge,  At one point I broke one of the frames where it had already splintered.  I mended it with CA glue.

 

This thing is such a wreck I'm considering starting over.  Since I have gained experience and knowledge about how to better do this, I just may.  I wasn't really all that happy with how it was progressing anyway. 

[captainbob]

Yes, the wood in the scrap bin is heaver than the finished boat.  Been there many times.

 

Bob

[Julie Mo]

Bob,

 

As I was working on the "lifeboat" I was wondering how a 13' boat could be a lifeboat for a yacht that would typically require 15-25 crew?  And since Endeavour was built to race around the buoys, it would need a tender more than a lifeboat.  So I was thinking of making the lifeboat into a tender.  But I didn't really like the lines of the lifeboat.

 

The glue pot arrived yesterday so I can begin the 2nd planking now.  I think the little boat will have to wait...

[KeithAug]

Hi Julie. I agree it is a dinghy / tender and not a lifeboat.

 

I have scrapped more than a few attempts in the past, learning what works is part of the fun. How thin did you make the planks. I was cutting some mahogany planks recently and mistakenly made a plank .010 inch thick. It behaved more like paper than wood. I'm away at the moment but I'll have a go at bending it when I get home and let you know the result.

[Julie Mo]

Hi Keith,

 

The planks I used to bend the frames is 0.035".  That scales out to 1.225".  I would think steam bending a board that thick on a bend as sharp as what's in the bow might have been done with two boards to make a laminate.  Looking back, I think the best bet would have been to make top forms for all the frames.  As it was, I only made two.  The bends are compound so having a top form to compress the "boards" probably would have produced results on the other four.  

 

We had a new frig arrive today (the old one died) and now the kitchen remodel has my attention.  We weren't going to buy new appliances until we were ready to tackle the kitchen but the old frig kind of forced our hand.  Depending on energy levels, I may have another break in ship building coming up.  

[mikiek]

Julie - for all the trouble you are going thru, did you ever consider cutting the frames from a sheet? Solid or ply. No bending required. You could either cut one entire frame piece or strategically make pieces that join to make the final piece. A scroll saw, jig saw or maybe a jewelers saw should make short work of it.