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I am fairly new to the forum and have read extensively.  This is a great resource and has been tremendously helpful.

 

I am in the process of resurrecting an Artesania Latina Swift  Model which I started and abandoned about 15 years ago.  

 

I am in the process of applying the second planking.  The kit provides walnut planking which is 5mm x 0.6 mm.  I understand the theory behind shaping and tapering the planks and did a fair job on the first layer many years ago.

 

I am finding it difficult to sand the second planks to a final shape because they are so thin.  It is very difficult to sand the edge in order to fine tune the final shape - the wood seems to be too flimsy to stand up sandpaper applied to the edge.   I am trying to minimize gaps and the need for filler as I would like to leave the hull natural with a "poly"  coating.  Are there any suggestions or techniques to help?

 

BTW - once I get myself organized and master the photography I will start a build log - if not for this model at least for my next.

 

Thanks to all

Chuck

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Hold the strip in one hand and do a little at a time, moving your hand along to keep the strip from twisting.  Sand a little, hold it up to the hull, sand a little, hold it up, sand, hold, sand, hold, etc. until it lines up.

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Jig for plank tapering.
Simple frame made from aluminum angles ( 10mm x 10mm) for hold plank in vertical position over planer blade. Adjustable for plank thickness.

 I use razor plane for primary shaping and next I sand it with sanding block.
Wear gloves for this work.

 

Tadeusz

 

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Hold the strip in one hand and do a little at a time, moving your hand along to keep the strip from twisting.  Sand a little, hold it up to the hull, sand a little, hold it up, sand, hold, sand, hold, etc. until it lines up.

 

This is the method I used on the very thin walnut planking provided for the 2nd planking of the AVS, and it worked just fine.  You just have to work on each plank carefully, and use a fine grit sandpaper (I used 220 grit mostly I believe) on a sanding block and work along the plank where you are supporting it.  If you try to get too aggressive (either with pressure or with grit), then it will tear up the plank instead of sanding it.  Let the sandpaper do the work, don't put pressure on it.

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Chuck,

I suspect a lot of your problem is the species of wood.  Walnut - even Black Walnut - Juglans nigra - which I serious doubt is the species you have is open pore - and the species used in Europe ( European/African sourced) look even more open grain and brittle.

 

You may consider using another species of wood.  There are vendors here who can supply veneer that will play nice.  You can dye a light colored wood if Walnut is the shade you want. You an get wider pieces and do a proper job of spilling ( der. "spoilling" - it means cutting away a lot of perfectly good wood to get a plank it fit the hull curves properly.

 

If nothing else - and you are local - Woodcraft - has veneer - you want the sort that is not expensive anyway - the high cost burl/figured material are the characteristics that you do not want - they do not translate well in the 1:50- 1:100 scale range. Checking their catalog - the following are examples of what you may consider:

Cherry Veneer 3 sq ft pack 9.99, 12 sq ft pack 21.50

Beech Veneer 3 sq ft pack 10.99

Maple Veneer 3 sq ft pack 10.19 , 12 sq ft pack 20.99

 

Maple and Beech will dye darker - so will Cherry, but why guild a lilly?
 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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Chuck, if you have a vice use that to hold the strip while you are shaping the plank.  Take your time as the stuff supplied in most kits leave much to be desired.  If you are lucky enough to have a Woodcraft nearby that would be great in that their veneers are top notch.

David B

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