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HMS Fly by Dfell - FINISHED - Amati / Victory Models - Scale 1:64


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Thanks for the input.

 

I think I am obsessing on getting the chamfers correct.  I already cut a 1 x 2mm rabett all along both sides of the keel and stem and stern post.

 

  I'm trying to get this "as close to right without going too far" before gluing anything together.  I will add the balsa blocks - if for no other reason than a bit more peace of mind.

 

If you guys are U.S. based - what did you use for paint?  I can't find that Humbrol (the recommended paint) is available in the U.S.  And all the other paints seem to be plastic model oriented - a lot of military type colors.

 

Within a few weeks I will likely start a blog - - not that I think I have a lot more to offer the group but because folks are so helpful with their suggestions.  I have read probably 20+ blogs on Pegasus and Fly - - priceless information.

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Hi Doug - 

 

Another question for you.  I really like the look of your deck planking using the thread.  I seem to get a lot of wicking with the markers and have trouble getting enough black on the edges of the planks for the pencil to work well producing a visible caulk seam (maybe I need a lot softer pencil).  You comment that you use 0.05mm thread - - that seems way too small, especially when you say it "might be over scale".  I have some 0.15 mm black thread, also some larger ones (up to 0.4mm - - wife is a quilter/sewer).  The 0.15 thread in nicely visible with the 0.5mm thick deck planking.  The question is, from a practical standpoint how do you control the thread, i.e. get it to stay where you want it while you apply the next plank?  

 

Thanks, Skip

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Hello Skip - I stick the planks down with a few drops of super glue and the thread is dipped into diluted PVA glue and pulled through a small sponge to get the excess off before laying up against plank. It obviously will be one piece of thread running the full length of the deck with small strips of thread for the end joints between the planks. These small bits will need to have dried before you can cut them so you can do do the next full length.

 

Doug

 

Completed: HM Brig Supply - JoKita / Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Fly - Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Sherborne - Caldercraft 1:64

HM Brig Flirt - Vanguard 1:64

                   

 

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Thanks, Doug. 

 

I made a few attempts yesterday (planking the main deck where it is only visible thru the hatch gratings).  I was coming to the conclusion that "glue was involved".  I really like the look of the black paper on Dubz's Syren, but when you look closely he was planking with pear wood planks that he cut and they had to be 2 to 3 mm thick so it looks like he glued the paper to one side of the plank before laying it.  Just not feasible with the 0.5mm Tanganyika.

 

Skip

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The easiest way to do simulated caulking is with an Archival Ink pen, which unlike "normal" felt pens doesn't bleed into timber. They are available at art supply stores.

 

Archival Ink Pen.JPG

 

Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

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Thanks Danny and Doug - This is great info.  I finished the (practice) planking using the black thread on the lower deck.  Not unhappy with the appearance (as little of it will be seen) but would not attempt this on the main deck.  Also a picture of a jig I made to color plank edges with a large Sharpie.  Solves the issue with getting ink on the faces of the planks - - but does not solve the bleeding problem.  I was going to settle for it but now I will certainly get an Archival Ink Pen - - - many thanks for this tip.  I tried a super soft pencil and while the edges of the plank were nice and black once laid down almost nothing showed.  However, I have my feeler gauge "at the ready".

Skip

Sharpie Jig for Edge Coloring.JPG

Lower Deck Planking Forward.JPG

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I've ordered a couple archival pens and will experiment with them.  I have extra soft lead pencils as well.  I won't start the main deck until I am very happy with a method.  I have Min-wax water based matte polyurethane varnish.  I used it on the planking on the lower deck and it did not seem to move the marker edged black.  The outer two strips had been edged with the Sharpie as a trial - but I didn't like it - went to the thread method.  I used those two strips where they are really not visible.  Thanks for the continuing advice.  As I recall you did not actually cut the deck planking strips but scored them with a 0.006mm feeler gauge at the joints.  That seems like a really practical way to get nicely aligned planking with uniform joints. I might adopt that method as well.

 

Thanks again for the benefit of all your experience.

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The best method I've found for blackening the edges is to use a No. 2 pencil.  If it gets wet from the glue, it won't bleed, but it can spread dust. That can usually be cleaned up with scraping & sanding prior to varnishing.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

Current Build:  HMS FLY 1776

 

Previous Builds:  Rattlesnake 1781

                        Prince de Neufchatel

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Aha - so if I understand correctly - you scored the simulated plank butt joints after the planks were laid.  Hadn't thought of that.  I was pondering a jig to do it before laying them - but that requires very tight control of the strip fore-n-aft while you are laying it, as well as setting the gap from the previous plank.  More to think about.  

I am running a test with strips edge blackened with soft pencil, archival marker and then using better quality black thread - need to make a decision on the main deck planking.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Now where was I? – Have now completed sheet 10. Had mistakenly headed a photo in my last update (now corrected) as Shifting backstay - not sure why as I had not done them as I had a problem understanding the plans.

The photo below shows plans with the Shifting backstay for the Fore mast which as I can see attaches to the Crowsnest area. Anway ignored this and attached as it is for the Main mast. Also was concerned how the lines would interfer with the Shrouds / Ratlines but it turned out not too bad.

 

_DSC0009.thumb.JPG.e64b54ae1b5ce8f1a96e828789e247ba.JPG

 

925558638_HMSFly4.thumb.JPG.1277434b5fe0891aa713240ca70fad37.JPG

 

_DSC0008.thumb.JPG.b4636a451433312e69a9dbfa4c1e386d.JPG

Did not use the kit supplied Euphroe brass blocks but made some up from a bit of walnut planking – possible they are a bit big.

_DSC0001.thumb.JPG.b435ea811dd37c97fd2b25a6e7b0c56f.JPG

 

_DSC0004.JPG.2e73abbbc103bf583cda477554e102a5.JPG

 

The Boomkins with a slight downward turn. Did in the end find on one of the plans the measurements for them.

2.thumb.JPG.a0216f6670d7075a444825690c20bd8f.JPG

 

_DSC0007.thumb.JPG.74e836c01eb05f5d412eed00130c8dfa.JPG

 

Thank you for looking and the likes.

Regards

 

Doug

 

Completed: HM Brig Supply - JoKita / Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Fly - Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Sherborne - Caldercraft 1:64

HM Brig Flirt - Vanguard 1:64

                   

 

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I probably haven't progressed much since my last log post - - have spent quite a bit of time fussing with cannons - - learning a few things along the way - I'll post that when they are done.  Have not progressed on the hull past the initial planking of the center of the main deck.  Building up my courage to tackle the gun port strips - I surely have the feeling they are the biggest hurdle on the hull construction.  I did an initial shaping on my "forms" and have not gotten further.  Quite a few summer time tasks and diversions!

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  • 1 month later...

Hello - the progress so far is some yards are up and in position.

Not exactly parallel as yet but hopefully will be once fully rigged.

 

1183772266_HMSFly99.JPG.6d830f5b70c28dc4c4b012be833b1f9a.JPG

 

Parral set up - seems slightly on the big size. For the top yards will use some left over from my Supply build which are smaller.

 

853780851_HMSFly100.JPG.165b738eaefcb26d51d0e44d46c01386.JPG

 

 

 

691140206_HMSFly103.thumb.jpg.d18b90b7a8c18d03c467ca3eacaa2684.jpg

 

The Crossjack Tie on the mizzen mast was done slightly different from instructions. Took the centre block off and tried to copy what was illustrated in my book. the Thimbles were made from copper tubing.

 

1810608295_HMSFly102.thumb.jpg.b6c3b25e4b93ba20bc9deda8dffbbb01.jpg

 

_DSC0014.thumb.JPG.198e13c28b9b500c5e5e0a4678905446.JPG

 

1294752673_HMSFly101.thumb.jpg.9f6a3aa4b21ad14d8d568d1809f7dfc6.jpg

 

 

An overall picture.

 

795821902_HMSFly104.thumb.jpg.a4fbb8373c93f162bcbe86ec3f99f69d.jpg

 

Thank you for looking and the ' Likes'

 

Doug

 

 

 

Completed: HM Brig Supply - JoKita / Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Fly - Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Sherborne - Caldercraft 1:64

HM Brig Flirt - Vanguard 1:64

                   

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello - further steps forward.

Top yards attached using smaller Parral bits from my Supply build.

 

1738522535_HMSFly105.jpg.6c98058f85ee805518993452cba563ec.jpg

922855269_HMSFly111.jpg.eda79340cf34a3665a547dd3494c5f79.jpg

 

Netting in place. Not sure about the style of the netting.

199561792_HMSFly106.thumb.jpg.7b12d2a82ead16171585bcdcf17bc839.jpg

 

Hoist for Ship's boat. Annoyed that I was not able to keep the Stay from sagging.

841880884_HMSFly108.jpg.84561c10635389d3d4a7a43b18878ab6.jpg

 

Boom and Gaff are now in place. The Gaff lift line has been tied off to a belaying pin to the side on deck and not as plans to the belaying set up at base of mast.

804604627_HMSFly107.thumb.jpg.c9b90f786e5dd70bdf4965c4dc6a6f1b.jpg

1672487805_HMSFly109.thumb.jpg.3396f066993aa61ccf0123615278fdbe.jpg

Another overall view

140989371__HMSFly110.jpg.399670b9137542ca88a15c76a4a17d87.jpg

 

Thank you for looking and the 'Likes' - much appreciated.

 

Regards

 

Doug

Completed: HM Brig Supply - JoKita / Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Fly - Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Sherborne - Caldercraft 1:64

HM Brig Flirt - Vanguard 1:64

                   

 

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On 11/16/2016 at 12:56 AM, probablynot said:

Is this what I'm going to have to do if my beloved Admiral buys me the HMS Fly kit for Christmas?

I'm intimidated!

Superb work! Extremely neat painting to the waterline. And I love what you're doing with the stern lights.

Looking mighty fine, just finished second planking on mine. Hope she turns out half as good as yours

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  • 1 month later...

Hello - and thank you for the likes in the previous posting and thank you Busby for your nice comments and I wish you well with your build.

 

Had a go to slightly improve the dip in the Main Stay.

 

1079505298_HMSFly115.jpg.04a169a5c34857c233fd133bc08016d2.jpg 

The lantern (Caldercraft) and rudder chain.

 

77034470_HMSFly113.thumb.jpg.4d0c8a23325984b818b30249b6549aba.jpg

 

Bobstays and Bowsprit Shrouds done and so that is Sheet 11 all done. My heart sank once I studied Sheet 12 as there was so much more rigging and it was already getting hard not to lean on existing lines without a fair chance of some damage.

 

925488979_HMSFly116.jpg.d3deca609969f7fafedfb07b660589c2.jpg 

Start of Sheet 12 with a Tack Toggle. Not sure if you can see it clearly in picture and not sure what the Tack Toggle does. It looks like a quick release system perhaps.

880867081_HMSFly112.thumb.jpg.124fa903bec4624abc0bd06100b1a28e.jpg

Lines to the rail have all gone through a deck ring before being tied off to the rail. Have added more eyelets than were originally asked for.

 

1919371054__HMSFly118.jpg.e33a756afc326e15306cd61da69e1cac.jpg

 

Thanks for looking.

 

Regards

 

Doug

Edited by Dfell

Completed: HM Brig Supply - JoKita / Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Fly - Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Sherborne - Caldercraft 1:64

HM Brig Flirt - Vanguard 1:64

                   

 

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Thanks SpyGlass for the explanation.

Had to make a correction to my last post - the lantern was a Caldercraft item.

 

Doug

Completed: HM Brig Supply - JoKita / Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Fly - Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Sherborne - Caldercraft 1:64

HM Brig Flirt - Vanguard 1:64

                   

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi - can anyone please help. Not clear as to how the lines are attached to blocks on the yards?

Are they tied to the blocks or go through the block with a knot tied to stop them passing back through?

The lines I am referring to have the numbers 48 and 49.

 

IMG_1121.JPG.1dd11c84b298578cee3a4b32c41135dd.JPG

Thank you.

 

Doug

Completed: HM Brig Supply - JoKita / Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Fly - Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Sherborne - Caldercraft 1:64

HM Brig Flirt - Vanguard 1:64

                   

 

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  • 1 month later...

Hello - things are getting rather harder to do. Having to move slowly with concentrated effort with the rigging and it is harder to tie lines off.

Some lines not tied off as they will have to be loosened so as to do the rest of the rigging lines.

Some photos.

 

310156827_HMSFly117.jpg.4ede512fe45a55de1ee6981b985058a5.jpg

240819278_HMSFly118.thumb.jpg.c240c377bc2abc931f99aba344f92fbe.jpg

 

 

560017773_HMSFly119.thumb.jpg.9b97ab6c6265b6f2fbaa0bfa66666d95.jpg

 

2102662987_HMSFly120.jpg.c85047f476474bd4c5501069dfc2c1eb.jpg1485591272_HMSFly122.thumb.jpg.4c994566b2f273dd23e688fcdd99f729.jpg

 

The anchor cables in place. As I did not think far enough ahead and prepare the hatch cover to take the cables I have done the same as in my HM Brig Supply build and put the cables through the deck.

 

1763081258_HMSFly121.jpg.28a27ea62fea24b2eca10492785760a4.jpg

 

Thank you for looking in.

 

Regards

 

Doug

Edited by Dfell

Completed: HM Brig Supply - JoKita / Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Fly - Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Sherborne - Caldercraft 1:64

HM Brig Flirt - Vanguard 1:64

                   

 

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Hello Blue Ensign  - okay I will run the sheets and tacks on the outside. Did that at first but thought it wrong as they rubbed up against the standing rigging.

 

SkipW - thanks for looking and your comments. Hope your Pegasus is going well.

 

And thank you Martin for comments.

 

Regards

 

Doug

Edited by Dfell

Completed: HM Brig Supply - JoKita / Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Fly - Caldercraft 1:64

HMS Sherborne - Caldercraft 1:64

HM Brig Flirt - Vanguard 1:64

                   

 

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Looks great Doug.  Should be the box cover pictures!

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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