Jump to content

SMS Emden by RGL - FINISHED - Revell - 1/350 - Complete


Recommended Posts

I have made separate areas for the guns under the decks. The guns themselves come up very nicely when painted. the first part is the bow, utalising a mess table between the guns, and a few interior brass porthole covers. None of this will really be visible once the roof goes on.

post-253-0-90154700-1452831240_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-36456400-1452831243_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-52586800-1452831246_thumb.jpg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This front waist 105mm gun is actually open on the kit, and I added a torpedo loading hatch, a few coaling scuttles (on the plans) and a few other doors. the reason i have added the contrasting colours was that if I did not they would just not be visible when the roof is on without internal lighting. It's like being a little bit pregnant, I'd have to do the entire thing.

 

you can see from the first picture what the kit 105mm gun looks like in comparison to a scratch built one.

post-253-0-27202100-1452831402_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-07839800-1452831407_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-47130800-1452831409_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-46600000-1452831412_thumb.jpg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great detail Greg, a real nice mdel.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the fordeck has traditional molded chains which are of course ridiculous. Artox provides a chain with the deck set but is is very much out of scale, the leftover Varyag chain is perfect, but t requires a lot of work to make sure it all runs properly.

 

I intend to use some 1/700 etched decking plate to cover the front deck which is paper thin (and in real terms more to scale than 1/700 where you would just not see the detail). After the first try at making a template, I realized that it would just be too hard to cut, so I removed the anchor holes and capstan bases from the Dresden kit and sanded the deck completely flush. 

 

I also had to cut a hole for the hatch that sits between the gun which is not referenced in the kit.

 

This allows for one piece of etch with minimal cuts to go over the top. They need to be reduced a fair bit yet so the plates can run a lot narrower. At least the chains will fit in the hawser holes this way.

 

The capstans are just pathetic and I have ordered some from the US which seems to have the slowest postal system in the world.

 

Next a primer coat then decking colour and a varnish coat over the top.

 

I'm off to the beach for 2 weeks so into storage it goes.

post-253-0-41215800-1452994837_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-24792900-1452994848_thumb.jpg

Edited by Greg Lester

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Enjoy the break - you may still be waiting on the US stuff when you get back ;) - I have to agree it is painfully slow and very expensive to boot!

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

back from 10 days at the beach and back to the deck.

 

To get the anchor chains to run correctly I had to scrap the capstans at the front, and fabricate new ones that the chain will actually run around. More filing required but I needed to ensure they fit properly on the metal deck. The eduard fret comes with a  flywheel that goes on the top of the capstan. You an see a little piece of grey plastic that is the Revell capstan.

 

Now I have stuck down the metal deck the rest can go back into a container until the entire deck is done. I can then add the chain brakes etc.

 

I then scored the two upper decks for the brass strips that will run on the deck to hold down the linoleum. I did this as they will show up after painting and give me a guide.  I did a practice run with the Vajello Red Black paint and it is rubbish on plastic, even after I varnished it, the slightest scrape and it comes off. Off to get some red brown enamel paint. 

 

The AWM photos of the front of the Emden shows the metal area for the chains and the Huff plans state that this area is black and the other parts of the deck are red brown. His own model has the entire deck black, but as you can see from the contrast in the photo it is different. I was thinking of taking the easy way out until I looked at the photo and thought no, do it properly.

post-253-0-74766700-1453947835_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-68393100-1453947858_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-02475800-1453947871_thumb.jpg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now this is an exercise in why one should not assume. I started the housing for the amidships today, of course expecting the Artxox deck would match up.

 

Not a chance in hell. Huge gaps and the last bit of housing is about 2 mil off so it does not sit correctly and in alignment at all.

 

The instructions are pretty good, just does not align. Give I have already layed the deck,  this causes some significant revision.

 

Sigh. Sometimes nothing is easy. I can see now why I cannot find a single build in any language using this photo etch.

 

Oh well, challenge set.

 

 

 

post-253-0-20711200-1454065581_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-65311500-1454065585_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-20084800-1454065591_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-71083200-1454065595_thumb.jpg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Greg,

 

Thats a shame.  Do you still have the plastic/resin structures that the photo-etch replaces?  Perhaps using a combo/mix and match of both will be a solution.

 

Cheers

Slog

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

HM Bark Endeavour (First Wood, On Hold)

Borodino (1:200 Card, Current Build)

Admiral Nakhimov (card 1/200)

Mazur D-350 Artillery Tractor (1:25 Card) 

F-8 Crusader (1:48 Aircraft, Plastic)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great work! I have this kit so when the time comes where I want to build it this log will be extremely useful thank you!

 

Charlie

Edited by CharlieZardoz

Build on hold: HM Sultana 1/64th scale

 

Current Build: 31 ton Doughty revenue cutter as USRC Active 1/64th scale (in progress)

 

Future Interests: Ballahoo, Diligence, Halifax and beyond...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just an exercise sent to try your patience mate ;)  I am assuming (sorry no real other option of word)  it is easier for you to cutaway and extend/fill-in other bits of the decking after plugging the hole a bit, than it is to remodel the superstructure?  Which is more correct to the scale/actual size of the ship?

 

Good luck but I know you'll be able to salvage the situation.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have you considered the Pontos version of the decking material? I have both and they are a bit different from each other.

Build on hold: HM Sultana 1/64th scale

 

Current Build: 31 ton Doughty revenue cutter as USRC Active 1/64th scale (in progress)

 

Future Interests: Ballahoo, Diligence, Halifax and beyond...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Problem solved. The planks line up and it will still be fairly invisible when I finish as most of the stiff is covered and i can have the last little bit of housing off centre to allow the gangway to run true. Working on an even surface should allow things to speed up considerably.

 

The Eduard etch is just that, the doors and hatches are etched into the brass. I shall paint them first then add after market German hatches and doors over the top. I find that if I do it this way the details come out better with a pin wash.

 

The hammock boxes are going to have to be re done. The vajello paint keeps coming off and taking the brass with it even after it has been varnished down. You can see the white stripes on the red bits. Maybe I needed to get thier primer but I'm just not going to start playing that game. No biggie as I intend on using a red brown (there is no red black available in an enamel). 

post-253-0-84863300-1454132140_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-82205900-1454132145_thumb.jpg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking really good sir!!

I followed your "Protected Cruiser" build with interest.

I have a couple of Bismarck's, 1/350 and 1/200 waiting for my attentions.

 

Couple of questions, do you use an "Etch Mate" to Bend/Fold and what do you use to affix the Railings?

I have read White Glue.

 

Cheers....HOF.

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hof, I do use an etch bender, and I only recently read about using white glue on railings, so that's something I'm going to have to practice first, but if it makes a good gap filler I'm keen to try it out. I only use CA due to its instant bond and strength and it's the only way to bond the etch together. The varyag's deck fit perfectly, but the Emden......not so good! I want to use individual stanchions again so that can preclude it. If I was doing 1/200 it would be easier than the smaller scale.

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are coal bunker vents on the plans but not on the kit, so i used some coal scuttles on the sides to represent these. As you can see the Eduard Etch is engraved, but the addition of actual doors and  windows makes a world of difference, these will need to be washed and dry brushed yet, but a lot of these details will be hard to see on the completed ship.

 

I still need to add some more hatches and fire hoses but they do not need to go on yet.

post-253-0-75988600-1454219021_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-89392100-1454219034_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-11264900-1454219042_thumb.jpg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow..  I get eye strain just looking at the photos.  I can't imagine trying work on the actual parts.  You're doing a great job with her, Greg.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Greg,

 

The structures on post #88 look stunning. The details being put into this is incredible.

 

The drawing hanging up in post #87; Is that the result of your research or is it included in the kit/detail set/or other?

 

Cheers

Slog

_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

HM Bark Endeavour (First Wood, On Hold)

Borodino (1:200 Card, Current Build)

Admiral Nakhimov (card 1/200)

Mazur D-350 Artillery Tractor (1:25 Card) 

F-8 Crusader (1:48 Aircraft, Plastic)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Slog, I managed to find the last set of plans available on ABE.com, $50 from Germany, a set of 10 A3 plans, I'd be lost without them. They are in German and I have to use the German keyboard in google translate.

 

The kit is so old the only way to get a decent one is to fork out $500 for a 1/200 resin kit. The big bonus in getting a double kit is spares, but apart from the hull and deck everything is after market. New kits have heaps of really good stuff but they are only now starting to push out pre WW1 stuff and most of the etch comes from Russia (it's really good stuff and reasonably priced to Oz). Russia and Poland have some excellent forums, but no one seems to be building this kit.

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today's update. I scraped off all the vajello red/black paint and half of the brass. I found a Humbrol Wine colour which is very similar and it will still need about three coats and maybe a bit of black added.

 

The housing has been given a pinwash and two lighter shades of yellow drybrush.

 

The Fire Hose reels have been added as well as a nozzle (from the end of a set of barrels I misordered.

 

I am pretty happy to date.

post-253-0-15050100-1454306206_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-48868700-1454306217_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-49794400-1454306257_thumb.jpg

Greg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...