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Dremel Versatip Butane soldering kit


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Just inquiring if anyone here has any info as to the stability regarding this item. I was thinking about getting one. Lowes has them on special for$24.99. seems like a good price , The cheapest I've seen them for is $49.00. They also have the mini torch at the same price, or would a reg soldering  iron like the Weller be a better choice. Thanks .

Frank

completed build: Delta River Co. Riverboat     HMAT SUPPLY

                        

                         USRC "ALERT"

 

in progress: Red Dragon  (Chinese junk)

                      

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just soldering for normal model ship building,

 

Frank

Edited by riverboat

completed build: Delta River Co. Riverboat     HMAT SUPPLY

                        

                         USRC "ALERT"

 

in progress: Red Dragon  (Chinese junk)

                      

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Frank,

 

It really depends on whether you're "soft soldering" or silver soldering. There is a big difference. Depending on the solder, you will only need about +\- 500 degrees to made a joint with soft solder. Silver soldering is more like "brazing" and takes place +/- 1100 degrees. Once I learned silver soldering I rarely "soft" solder any more, I use it only were strength is not important as the high temps might be a problem. If you look around, there are plenty of "you tubes" to show techniques

 

Best,

John

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

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Thanks John...... i haven't given much thought as to what type soldering hard or soft. Whats the consensus for what we do in ship modeling? Would silver soldering be better or not, My question is would the Dremel butane Virsatip be good to use with either soft or hard  soldering or should I just be looking at a conventional soldering iron like a Weller

Frank

completed build: Delta River Co. Riverboat     HMAT SUPPLY

                        

                         USRC "ALERT"

 

in progress: Red Dragon  (Chinese junk)

                      

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I think it depends on what you are working on and doing.  I have done both on my model.  Where structural integrity or fine detail is needed I silver solder.  For everything else I use an iron.  There are several videos on Youtube on the subject and I think one of them was showcased somewhere on this forum.  

David B

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Silver soldering is done with a torch, in order to get to those high temps.  If you really get into it, and work a lot with metals, there are different temps available; you start an assembly with the hottest, then the next joint a little lower, then a little lower, so you don't melt previous work as the assembly grows.

The versa tip looks like a butane powered iron so probably used for soft solder, and though it may heat up quicker and be small and handy, roughly comparable to the big weller type.

So you see, this is another where the answer is 'it depends'.

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Thanks Joel for the info.

 

Frank

completed build: Delta River Co. Riverboat     HMAT SUPPLY

                        

                         USRC "ALERT"

 

in progress: Red Dragon  (Chinese junk)

                      

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There is one other consideration, Frank.  With silver soldering, the joint has to be almost perfect.  There really isn't any wicking and gap filling like with the soft solder.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Thanks Mark,,, Now..... with that said... and taking into account that I'm not going to be building a full blown air craft carrier and that my building skills are mediocre at best, would I be better off buying a fairly decent soldering iron rather than considering a mini torch  set up?I don't think I'll be doing anything elaborate as far as soldering goes, wait a minute, no ...I know for a fact I wont be doing anything  elaborate. As far as soldering goes it will be minimal. The reason I asked this question was to see whether or not the Dremel pencil torch would be  as good as a regular iron , it just looked like it's an easier tool to use, and of course...... the price is right :P  Thanks again and everyone's input is appreciated.

Frank

completed build: Delta River Co. Riverboat     HMAT SUPPLY

                        

                         USRC "ALERT"

 

in progress: Red Dragon  (Chinese junk)

                      

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The torch would be faster even using soft solder, Frank.  No need to wait while the iron heats up and the joint heats up quickly.  However, go with what you're comfortable with.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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My personal experience with this, as a complete soldering newbie, was that I had a really difficult time using a soldering iron because of the need to hold it against the metal to get the heat to transfer.  With a small torch, I only have to keep the parts in place, not also secure them against the need to hold contact with the soldering iron.  Finally, using a silver-solder paste worked a lot better for me than using a solid solder. 

 

For my next project I'll have the multiple temperature pastes to be able to do the progressively softer solders to hopefully eliminate losing prior joints when adding new parts.

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Thanks again Mark,and thank you too Brian for your input here..... I think I'll go with the Dremel Versatip, I like the idea of not having to wait too long for the iron to heat up and not having to secure the pieces. So thanks again for the advice.

 

Frank

completed build: Delta River Co. Riverboat     HMAT SUPPLY

                        

                         USRC "ALERT"

 

in progress: Red Dragon  (Chinese junk)

                      

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