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HMS Triton Cross Section by DocBlake - 1/24 scale


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Thanks, Brian.  I think I'm going to go with a building board and right angle jig for construction.  I cut my false keel way long, and the keel and keelson long, also.  I'll glue the false keel to the keel and this will give me plenty of room to screw the false keel into the building board to keep the component  in place.  When the build is done, the false keel gets cut off, freeing the model from the board.

 

I finished rough sanding the frames inboard and outboard.  There should be very little final fairing, and only smoothing to do once the frames are set...assuming the rebates for the keel and keelson are right on each frame! No pictures yet!

 

In looking at the full build Triton plans, I noticed there is a scarph in the keel between frame O and frame B.  The scarph is in the vertical plane and I plan to include it in the model.  In fixing it's location, I noticed that there is a discrepancy between the full build plans and the cross section plans.  In the cross section,  the frames  are labeled 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 0, A, B, and C.  The identical frames on the full build plans are labeled 4, 3, 2, 1, 0, A, B, C, and D.  Does anyone know why the discrepancy?

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Pete:  I looked at your build when I was first planning this project and filed away your building technique for future reference.  I just reviewed your whole log and I plan to approach the build just as you did.  Hopefully my results will be as good as yours!

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  • 1 month later...

Historically, the futtocks would have been bolted together to produce the frames.  What would the correct diameter of the bolts be?  May best estimate from research I've done is somewhere between 1" and 1-1/2".  Any thoughts?  Also, would it make sense to mark the locations of the deck clamps and gunport sills etc. on the frames prior to glueup?

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  • 3 weeks later...

Here's what's been keeping me out of the shipyard for the last weeks.  Our 25 year old cedar deck finally succumbed to rot and had to be removed.  We did that and rebuild the decking and railing.  I'm at a standstill while I wait for special ordered lumber, so it's back to modeling!

deck1.JPG

deck2.JPG

deck3.JPG

deck4.JPG

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I decided to add the scarf joint that appears on the keel plan for the full Triton build.  Was that scarf held together by bolts or treenails?  In his Cheerful build, Chuck has a vertical scarf in the keel held together with treenails.  I've already decided the futtocks will be bolted together with dark treenails representing the bolts.

keel.JPG

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Model  Expo has a 1/24 smooth bore cannon kit, 18th century, that looks to be a 9 pounder.  I don't need the kit, just the barrels (2).  Who can I contact to see if they would be willing to sell me just 2 barrels?  Would work great on my Triton section.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bolts.thumb.JPG.aeefbe26a47e6e5a4922a8f23f8376d5.JPGI'm placing the simulated bolts on the frames.  I made them by using a Dremel tool to push them through the appropriate hole in my Byrnes draw plate.  I dyed them black and glued them in place.  They are about 1-3/8" scale diameter - visible but not too overbearing.  I think they look good!

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  • 4 weeks later...

With our deck project complete, I've freed up some time to get back to the shipyard.  I decided to poly the fore and aft surfaces of the frames begore gluing them to the keel, when access is much more restricted.  I do have a couple of questions for previous builders of this model:

 

1) Is bracing between each frame necessary or advisable?   What should be the layout, and is there a historical precedent for this?

 

2) Should I cut the mortises for the gun port framing before assembly, or after the frames have been installed?

 

Here's a photo of the nine frames drying after the first coat of poly.  The can of Minwax gives some perspective as to how big a 1/24 scale section is!

tritonframes.JPG

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Wow! This is going to be fantastic. Is this the one you and Mike are doing?

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I don't want to cast or turn the cannons for this model.  Model Expo has a battle station kit for a smooth bore 18th century naval cannon.  I thought it was a 9 pounder, but it turns out the measurements are most compatible with a 12 pounder, according to Hahn's tables for cannon dimensions.  The differences are pretty small.  For example a 9 pounder cannon is 93" long, while a 12 pounder is 97.97" long.  It's the same for the carriages.  Model expo is willing to sell me two cannons, without the rest of the kit.  Can I swap out the 9 pounders for 12 pounders and still show my face around here?  :D

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From my point of view... it's your ship, your the builder and the captain.   Carry on, sir.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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You are right, Mark.  I think I'll go ahead with the 12 pouinders.

 

Don:  This is a warm up for the real project Mike and I are planning:  a 1/24 scale full model of "Hannah".  The only question is will it be rigged or admiralty style!

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Yea Dave, go for the cannons.  I have no intention of turning or casting any cannons for my foreseeable projects, so I expect I'll have to make do with whatever the closest things I can find are, just like this!

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Model shipways did sell me two cannons without the rest of the kit.  The cost was $15 each plus shipping.  Given their size, I thought that was probably fair.  When I opened the package I was pleased to find that the cannons were turned brass, and not Britannia metal (as they were in the kit I had purchased awhile back).  Here is a comparison photo.  I thought maybe the cascabel was too large, but the other photo shows an 18th century naval gun, and the cascabel is fairly large on it also.  In addition the hole for the trunnion is not offset...well, you can't have everything!  The next question is to make the carriage our off boxwood, or use bloodwood like I plan to use to plank the inboard bulwarks.  the boxwood allows the detail on the carriage to really stand out.  Any thoughts?

12 pounders.JPG

naval.jpg

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Those are nice looking barrels. What are they about 4 inches long? Your frames look great. That's going to to be one heck of a model.

The heart is happiest when the head and the hands work together.

Al

 

Current Builds:

HMS Halifax 1/48 POF Lumberyard Kit

Model Shipways Glad Tidings

Acoustic Guitar Build FINISHED

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The grain is tolerable at this large scale, Brian.  But blood wood becomes really dark with age.  Red heart is a pretty scarlet when freshly sawn. but ages to a muddier reddish brown over time.  All in all I think boxwood is the best choice.  Chuck's Syren carriages are boxwood, and what I used in building my AVS "Patrick Henry"

boxcarriages.JPG

Edited by DocBlake
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I'm finishing up a number of small tasks before starting to mount the frames on the keel.  I'm marking out the rabbets for the gun port sills and lintels, and adding some temporary bracing across the top timbers of the frames to stiffen them.  They are attached with Weldbond, so I can dissolve the bond with alcohol.  The first photo shows my build board with the keel and false keel screwed to it.  The keel assembly is long on both ends so it can be trimmed flush after the hull is removed from the board.  The second photo is my brace for ensuring all the frames are plumb.  The lines represent the top of the frames and the lines for the rabbets to receive the sills and lintels of the ports.  The third photo shows a frame in place with a temporary brace across the top.

jig1.JPG

jig2.JPG

jig3.JPG

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I need some advice from previous builders!

 

I'm getting ready to mount the frames, and although I've marked the locations for cutting rabbets for the gun port sills and lintels, I'm not sure if I should cut them out now, or wait until the frames are placed and some additional bracing, like deck clamps and wales are installed.  There is bound to be tolerance creep, and I'd hate to have to try to repair gun ports that are not square, having been pre-cut.  Cutting the rabbets into mounted frames can assure the gun ports are placed right and of the right shape, but is obviously more difficult that cutting them into the frames off the model.  Any thoughts?

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I "precut" but short and then final fitted them after the frames were mounted and braced.   Best bet is to do what works for you and what you're comfortable with.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Personally, I think it's easier to temporarily mount the completed frames, perhaps with small spacers glued between the toptimbers to lock them in place and a tack or two where they sit on the keel, mark off the sill locations, remove them and then cut the mortises with a chisel. I believe it's much cleaner to make these joints using a chisel with the frame on a flat surface then filing them in place and keeping them the mortises parallel athwartship.

Greg

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Admiralty Models

moderator Echo Cross-section build
Admiralty Models Cross-section Build

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Pegasus, 1776, cross-section

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Speedwell, 1752

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Greg:  I agree, now that I look at the problem again.  That's what I'll do.

 

Frame #5 has no mortises so I glued (epoxy) and screwed (1-1/4" #6 wood screw) it onto the keel.  I let it dry in clamps overnight.  A milestone!  Next I will temporarily mount frames 4,3 and 2 to mark the mortises for the sills and lintels, then cut them off the model.

frame 5.JPG

Edited by DocBlake
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It has begun!

 

Nice work Dave.  I would be concerned that the screw would put a twisting force into the frame and cause it to become misaligned after the clamps were removed.  How did you prevent that?

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