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Just received my new table saw (and disc sander) from Byrnes Model Machines. In the rush to get started, because I needed to trim down a piece of 3/4 inch birch while installing a new dishwasher (regular tools were still unpacked from recent move), I had either dust or some abrasive between the table and the new miter gauge. It seemed like it was scratching the new tabletop, much to my chagrin. I had coated the table with paraffin oil before I started but it didn't seem to help.

 

I went out and bought some automotive paste wax (Turtle Wax Ice), as recommended in the directions that came with the saw. That helped but still appeared to be some galling, which happens when similar metals are used together. Decided to buff the back of the miter gauge. That helped a lot. I used the leather stropping wheel on my Tormac grinder. It would probably be better to use a felt or cotton buffing wheel, such as one that can fit onto a portable electric drill and save any leather strop you might have for your edge tools. Please see photos.

 

The gauge on the right, in case you hadn't guessed, is the one that was buffed. The one on the left in same photo, is as it came from Byrnes and hadn't been buffed yet. Except for this glitch, I am quite pleased with these machines so far.

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Edited by Nick R

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I am sorry, but I rather have the dull look. It is less glare in my face :rolleyes:

In fact I have adapted it to my Ryobi sander and it works great there also. That is a piece of 1/8 inch plywood on the table to give me zero clearance.

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But that is not all. 

I now have several featherboards that use a 1/2 x 1/8 inch aluminum bar and three 10-32 thumb screws. The one to the right is mounted in a 'tapered' threaded hole. As I tighten that screw it forces the bar against the sides of the slot to lock it in place.

The featherboards are made of 1/8 inch plywood. 

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I have used this for cutting narrow strips (not too cool when using your fingers). True, I have to readjust the featherboard as I progress cutting more strips from the same piece. But, se la guerre.

 

BTW magnetic featherboards don't work on aluminum tables, so the only practical way is to use the slots.

Edited by Modeler12

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Here is my second addition. It is essentially a hold down fixture but uses a ball bearing mounted as shown.

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The design came from seeing what another modeler had done to cut thin veneer.

Jim Byrnes also uses this idea for his clear blade guard. 

 

I have cut several pieces this way and it really works very well.

gjdale, mtaylor, jaka44 and 11 others like this

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One more addition. A splitter.

 

For my .035 inch thick blade, I used a piece of copper wire at .032 inch thickness. Then I drilled two #66 holes in the zero clearance insert as shown below. I had to make minor adjustments with a pair of pliers and now I am ready to add a couple drops of epoxy underneath to keep the wire in place. 

The wire does not wrap around the top of the blade, but even so it worked well.

The hold-down ball bearing will be moved forward when in use, but for the picture I had it sitting well behind the splitter.

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I like the hold down fixture and need to build one of those for my saw.  The splitter is also very nice and simple to make, very easy to make a few of those with different sizes to accommodate different thickness blades.  Thanks for the post, Jay.

mtaylor, Nirvana, Modeler12 and 1 other like this

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I like the hold down fixture and need to build one of those for my saw.  The splitter is also very nice and simple to make, very easy to make a few of those with different sizes to accommodate different thickness blades.  Thanks for the post, Jay.

Bill, I might add that the hold down fixture can easily be made using the bracket that came with the saw. It is easy enough to remove the clear plastic saw guard and then put in a bearing in its place. The bearing I used came from one of my router bits. 

I use this hold-down fixture only for thin boards. It is a bit flimsy for sipping thick stock.

Canute, Nirvana and mtaylor like this

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Jay,

 

Thanks, that is exactly what I was planning to do but was not creative enough to think about using a router bearing.  Thanks for the help and that idea.  That simplifies everything.  

 

I am in the midst of trying to build some of those flexible clamps that Ed Tosti recommended in his book.  Have you had any experience with those?  I will have to order the LH thread tap and dies and then I am ready to go.

Nirvana, Modeler12, mtaylor and 2 others like this

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Just a heads up that the Byrnes website is showing some new upgrades available for our JimSaws,

 

Adjustable miter gauge extension

Some new blades are now offered

A spares kit of all the screws and miter pins

 

Ben

druxey, mtaylor, Canute and 2 others like this

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