Jump to content

Chuck's planking videos...


Recommended Posts

I've seen quite a few posts referencing that these exist and apparently some are having a hard time to find them.   I hope Chuck doesn't mind but I'm putting the links here.   

 

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Easier said than done.  :cheers:

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I advocate no water.   You really dont need it.   For the kinds of bends we are talking about,  the heat does the trick.  There will be some spring-back......but just overbend to begin with.   The key is to line-off the hull first.  Its easier when you have a plan.

 

That is described here.

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Lining%20Off%20your%20hull%20for%20planking.pdf

 

 

And another by David Antscherl here....... where he cuts the planks to shape rather than bend it in that third plane.

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/Planking%20primer.pdf

 

But lining off the hull is half the battle.  Then realizing the planks are bent and not straight to fit the hull properly in that edge-wise plane.  Whatever way you eventually get it there.  But force bending a straight plank is a really frustrating way to fight through planking.  IMHO

 

post-2-0-75453000-1468420423_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark and Chuck

Thanks for posting. I never saw this before. I can't wait for my next build to try this out.

Will this work on all types of wood???

Joe

Joe,

 

Most woods yes, some are more prone to spring back than others.

I used water and heat in combo for my Longboat, next build I will try the heat option only.

Wood will expand in water; once drying, strips can get a little shorter and also the width.

It may not be much, but can have hull twisting issues where you have "spot glued" to frames.

 

Only my two cents

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
593661798_Keepitreal-small.jpg.f8a2526a43b30479d4c1ffcf8b37175a.jpg

Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Too bad the camera was at the opposite side of what he was actually doing.  :(  :(  :(

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chuck, I noticed in your vids where you mention that the garboard strake needs to be positioned correctly.

Could you please tell us HOW you determine the proper positioning of this plank ??

Edited by CaptainSteve

CaptainSteve
Current Build:  HM Granado Bomb Vessel (Caldercraft)

My BathTub:    Queen Anne Barge (Syren Ship Models)       Log:  Queen Anne Barge (an build log)

                        Bounty Launch (Model Shipways)                 Log:  Bounty Launch by CaptainSteve
                        Apostol Felipe (OcCre)
                        HMS Victory (Constructo)
Check It Out:   The Kit-Basher's Guide to The Galaxy

Website:          The Life & Boats of CaptainSteve

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes....by lining off the hull.  In general you will be able to see if your planks are measured so they taper too much against the stem.  If so move the garboard back at the bow to give you more room to make the planks at the bow wider.  For me it is just trial and error but after many hulls you get a good idea of where it should be.  But there is always re-tweeking and lining off the hull more than once at the bow to get it looking just right before you make any sawdust with your planks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But lining off the hull is half the battle.  Then realizing the planks are bent and not straight to fit the hull properly in that edge-wise plane.  Whatever way you eventually get it there.  But force bending a straight plank is a really frustrating way to fight through planking.  IMHO

 

 

 

Forgive me please for being new to all the terminology, but what is force bending (or, asked another way, what do we call the sort of bending shown in the video)?

Edited by Sunsanvil
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great videos and good advice. I will give the dry bending a try on my next build. I'm always up for learning new techniques and anything that helps to speed up the process of planking while still providing a nice finish I am all for trying.

"A Smooth Sea NEVER made a Skilled Sailor"
- John George Hermanson 

-E.J.

 

Current Builds - Royal Louis - Mamoli

                    Royal Caroline - Panart

Completed - Wood - Le Soleil Royal - Sergal - Build Log & Gallery

                                           La Couronne - Corel - Build Log & Gallery

                                           Rattlesnake - Model Shipways, HMS Bounty - Constructo

                           Plastic - USS Constitution - Revel (twice), Cutty Sark.

Unfinished - Plastic - HMS Victory - Heller, Sea Witch.

Member : Nautical Research Guild

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes just a few drops....on each bulkhead.   Applied with a toothpick. Only in rare circumstances will I glue the edges of the planks.  I havent found the need to do that.  I only use CA for the planking by-the-way.  Once the planking is over I switch to tite-bond.   I just hate waiting for the planks to set with it so I use CA instead.  I havent had an issue at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No not exactly.  The plank is first bent edgewise as shown and then bent the other way as needed.  The one plank on the video if I remember correctly was lower on the hull and didnt require any bending the other way.  It was so slight that I didnt need to.   But in almost all cases the plank is pre shaped so that it immediately sits against the bulkhead edges.   Thats why you dont have to clamp them.  The CA dries so quick that its an immediate bond.  Its only when folks dont pre-shape that some sort of clamp is required.

 

I glue two bulkheads at a time and work my way across the hull in scale lengths.   Yes there is sanding butnot that much.   If the planks fit well than not much sanding is required.

 

Just like this plank below.....the plank is always bent edge-wise first and then the other way so its completely pre-shaped to fit so no extra bending is needed.  In this case below I pre-spiled the plank with a laser cutter edge-wise, but if I was using a plain strip like in the video....it would have been bent to look just like this before gluing.

 

post-2-0-75453000-1468420423_thumb.jpg

 

Here is some more detail

 

Here is a straight plank as if I were going to place it on the hull.  It could be at the bow or at the stern.   Most beginners would try to force this into place and the top edge of the plank would lift off the hull and not sit flush against the bulkheads.  Some fight with it using pins and clamps and it gets messy.   Holding it without bending like shown reveals the gap .  Note the widest point of that gap.

 

post-2-0-27626100-1425138352.jpg

 

Mark this location as the center of the gradual curve you will need.

 

 

In the next picture,  after bending,    you can see how nice it fits and how it is flush against the bulkheads.  No forcing needed.  Its a perfect fit.    Note the dot I marked on the plank for the apex of the curve or the widest part of the gap..You could use the compass method or the tape method to find the exact curve,  but I prefer to eyeball it like this.   Visually its easy to see the curve after a little practice.   I always over bend slightly.

 

post-2-0-96144100-1425138352.jpg

 

Now all I have to do is bevel the edge that meets the plank already on the hull for a tight fit (just knock off the edge as in the video) and darken the seem as I did in the video with pencil and glue it on.  You can see that in this rare instance not much bending other than edge-bending was needed because it was low on the hull.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think this article may explain lining off the hull and finding the curved shape better.  It is more descriptive.  The version on the NRG site is the power-point from this longer article which is the chapter for the Winchelsea book.  Seeing as its taking so long to complete that project I will release the longer version on planking below the wales here.  Its seems like the right place/time to do it.  In this case however I didnt write about pre-bending edgewise.....I was cutting the spiled edge from a sheet.  It really doesnt matter how you achieve the edge-wise bend...either pre cutting from a sheet or bending as shown in the video.  Its just important that you do.

 

Then bend it the other way with heat and also give any needed twist to the plank so its completely shaped before gluing it on the hull.  That is the secret to a well-planked hull.

winplankingbelowwales.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another thing you have to think about is the species of wood you are using.  Is it flexible or stiff as a board.  I have found using the right type of wood helpful when planking and bending.  

David B

Edited by dgbot
Link to comment
Share on other sites

With as useful as these videos are, I vote that they be added to one of the pinned threads, or this thread be pinned in the forum.  The techniques shown in the videos are something that I think everyone should be able to find easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Theres just one thing I dont understand about lining the hull with tape or string.  If the number of planks is 20 or 24 or any number that is equally divided by 4 then there is no problem because the hull will be divided into 4 sections. But my question is what if you are working with 23 planks? with the first lining of tape that divides the hull in two, does it follow the increment marked for plank 11 or 12? or do I divide the hull at the true center which would be in the center of the 11th plank or  11 1/2.  I don't know how to ask this question if this doesn't make sense I totally understand. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its simple really....you determine the max width for a plank by choosing the scale widths that were actually used on that vessel.  Its not a random choice.  Should you end up with an odd number of planks after doing so,  then just make one belt with one less strake in it.  They need not be all the same.   But depending on the size of the ship and country of origin....choose the correct width accordingly.   It could be eight inches....it could be 10 or 12".  It depends on the ship.  The period etc.   It doesnt have to be equally divided.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,  I'm still just alittle confused. Can we spile above the wales? I dont know how I would measure each plank width with no consistant reference at the top. Also the kit calls for wales after everything is planked. Can I just spile plank the entire thing from top to bottom then add wales? maybe use a waterline jig to draw a horizontal line as high as i can almost to the main deck and start from there? ( the pic is 1/48 HMS Surprise, not mine but what I want to build soon)

 

Rob

post-25790-0-01115300-1472410208.jpg

post-25790-0-23359700-1472410222.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is quite the odd shaped hull at the bow.  But yes you can spile all of the planking.  Usually it is those under the wales that need it most but looking at your bow shape....I am truly at a loss.   So yes probably.  I cal tell from teh photos that the bulkheads were not faired nearly enough.  That probably contributed to the odd shape.  

 

Chuck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Chuck.  No its not mine, it's just a picture I found online. Though Its the model I want to build.  From all of the build logs of this kit i've seen the instructions have them plank from where the wale would be up to the top, then from the wale down, then finaly add the wales. so I just got alittle confused and found this picture that  I thought illustrated what i was asking.  I am actually still yet to build me first model. though I'm doing tons of research in preperation.

 

Thank you Chuck!

 

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rob,

 

You can add the wales as such after planking.  Usually it's just another thin plank over the planking such that the wales stand proud from the rest of the planks. I did it on my current build since the top wale plank I used is thin ebony.  Point of order though... French frigates of the era did wales a bit (quite a bit, actually) differently than the English or Americans.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...