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Dremel saw refit


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About 25 years ago, I bought a Dremel table saw, model 580-2.  It largely saw in my basement gathering dust.  I now own a Byrnes saw, but having the Dremel operating in addition could be very helpful.  The saw runs great, but has 3 huge drawbacks.  The fence is pure crap - hard to adjust, lots of wobble, totally unacceptable.  Likewise, the miter gauge is cheap and inaccurate.  Lastly, the blade plate has a huge opening, limiting the width of cuts that can be easily made.  I found  a source on Ebay to buy an upgraded fence and miter gauge.  I also purchased a sled that's dedicated to the saw.  Serious upgrades for about $70 total!  What I don't have is a close clearance blade plate (zero clearance insert), because they are sold out! 

 

My question is, does anyone have access to a close clearance blade plate, or plans to make one ?  It would complete my refurbishing of what is still a pretty good saw.  Here's a link to a website that shows the upgrades I purchased:

 

http://www.theaerosmith.com/catalog_3.html

 

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Dave,

    For the Byrne's Saw, the zero clearance insert is easy.  Jim sells blank aluminum inserts that you install with the saw blade down.  You slowly raise the blade and, viola!!!, zero clearance insert.  The beauty is that you can make one for each blade size.  I am sure you could do it with the Dremel as well if you can find or make the correct size blanks.  I have also seen people use the appropriate thickness airplane model grade plywood. 

Chuck Seiler
San Diego Ship Modelers Guild
Nautical Research Guild

 
Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, John Smith Shallop
Completed:  Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch 1/4 scale-Model Shipways plans)

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Yeah, I figured before reading your post that the saw was better than 20 years old because they stopped making them some time ago. I've been looking for one myself, but can't find one any where. A friend of mine had one and loved it, ut again, he made mods to it to make it acceptable to what he was doing with it.

 

 

mike

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Yeah, I figured before reading your post that the saw was better than 20 years old because they stopped making them some time ago. I've been looking for one myself, but can't find one any where. A friend of mine had one and loved it, ut again, he made mods to it to make it acceptable to what he was doing with it.

 

 

mike

Keep checking ebay.  They show up from time to time, sometimes are real low prices.

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

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Glad I came across this thread for I just picked up one of these saws at a garage sale for $10 a few weeks ago.  It was missing blades, the miter, and had about 25 years of dust on it but after cleaning it up, replacing a few missing nuts and a new power cord, it runs nice.   I ended up using it a SKill 4" 44 tooth and a 4" riptide blade.  Still pretty rough cutting for what I like to do. Also need a miter.  I'll keep an eye out on ebay.  

 

Scott

 

Current Builds:  Revell 1:96 Thermopylae Restoration

                           Revell 1:96 Constitution COMPLETED

                           Aeropiccola HMS Endeavor IN ORDINARY

Planned Builds: Scientific Sea Witch

                            Marine Models USF Essex

                            

 

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Thanks Doc for the link.  I think I got what I needed.  

Scott

 

Current Builds:  Revell 1:96 Thermopylae Restoration

                           Revell 1:96 Constitution COMPLETED

                           Aeropiccola HMS Endeavor IN ORDINARY

Planned Builds: Scientific Sea Witch

                            Marine Models USF Essex

                            

 

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Dave,

 

I made all the same upgrades to my Dremel 580. But I also got the no slip belt and geared pulley wheels from Bill. Get a set if he has any left. I've yet to have the saw bog down with these in place even sawing though 3/4" Cherry (though I am cognizant of the saw's limitations). One more thing I did was to add a strip of thin aluminum to fence from before the rear of the blade forward. It serves two purposes. Since the fence upgrade is made of stock slightly rounded on the corners, I've had problems with very thin stock trying to slip between the fence and the table. The aluminum strip is flush with the table. Also since it stops before the rear edge of the blade, it tends to minimize chances of kick back.

 

Best,

John

Edited by Landlocked123

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

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I made a close clearance throat plate for my Dremel from a piece of the correct gauge aluminum and raised the blade through it. Works great. Made a fence from some maple, A little fiddly but once set up it works good. I make custom miter gauges of wood for what ever angle I need. With small wood I usually do cutoff work with a NWSL chopper.  Bill  PS i have throat plates made of plywood for my 10 in Rigid table saw.

Bill, in Idaho

Completed Mamoli Halifax and Billings Viking ship in 2015

Next  Model Shipways Syren

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Try making a plate from model plywood from Midwest Products.  The 1/8" plywood is surprisingly strong.

I have used 1/8 plywood for several 'zero clearance' applications (9 inch Delta bandsaw, scroll saw, sander and now my Byrnes table saw).

For the table saw inserts I cut the shape with the grain in the long direction. The Byrnes miter gauge fits on my Ryobi sander by spacing the plywood as shown below. The plywood is held to the table with double back tape. 

All have worked like a charm.

post-246-0-70163900-1472944325.jpg  post-246-0-88159000-1472943951.jpg

Edited by Modeler12

Jay

 

Current build Cross Section USS Constitution  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10120-cross-section-forward-area-of-the-uss-constitution/

Finished USS Constitution:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/103-uss-constitution-by-modeler12/

 

'A picture is worth a  . . . . .'      More is better . . . .

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It is called the Accurizer II and I have the same thing for my Dremel.  It also came with a cross-piece for the back of the saw to stabilize the motor.  I think it is still available for the MicroMark saw.  Using this, the zero clearance plates and the toothed belt you have a very accurate machine powerful enough to rip 1/2" stock without any problem.  If only the fence was taller...

Toni


Chairman Nautical Research Guild

Member Nautical Research and Model Society

Member Midwest Model Shipwrights

 

Current Builds:     NRG Rigging Project

Completed Builds: Longboat - 1:48 scale       HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale       Half Hull Planking Project      Capstan Project     Swallow 1779 - 1:48 scale               Echo Cross Section   

Gallery:  Hannah - 1:36 scale.

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The Accurizer is still available:  http://www.micromark.com/accuriser-ii,7504.html

 

As for a higher fence, I don't know if this will help... but MicroMark does sell a "taller fence" that fits over the existing fence.  It will fit a fence that's about 3/4" wide and 5/8" high.

 

Have a look here:  http://www.micromark.com/Featherboard-and-High-Fence-Attachment-Set-or-80463-MicroLux-Tilting-Arbor-Table-Saw,7586.html

 

I have one that I cut down such that it only goes to the leading edge of the blade to reduce kickback.  Here's pics of how I use mine:

 

post-76-0-35125400-1473061536_thumb.jpg

 

post-76-0-96541100-1473061548_thumb.jpg

 

post-76-0-96778400-1473061589_thumb.jpg

Edited by mtaylor

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Toni/Mark

 

Do you guys have any idea if the accuriser II (which MM says are for its own saw only) will fit on the Dremel? Thanks.

 

Best,

John

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

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No clue here, John. I saw Toni's post and she mentioned the need for a higher fence.  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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I would doubt it because when I bought it from the vendor there were two models available, one for the Dremel and the other for the MicroMark.  I am sure the thickness and length of the table is different on the two saws.  

Toni


Chairman Nautical Research Guild

Member Nautical Research and Model Society

Member Midwest Model Shipwrights

 

Current Builds:     NRG Rigging Project

Completed Builds: Longboat - 1:48 scale       HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale       Half Hull Planking Project      Capstan Project     Swallow 1779 - 1:48 scale               Echo Cross Section   

Gallery:  Hannah - 1:36 scale.

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Does anyone know if the MicroMark brand saw and the Proxxon FET models are comparable ... ie. I opted for the Proxxon awhile back and wonder if the accessories offered for the MicroMark would work with the Proxxon model??

 

JP

Built & De-Commissioned: HMS Endeavour (Corel), HMS Unicorn (Corel),

Abandoned: HMS Bounty (AL)

Completed : Wappen Von Hamburg (Corel), Le Renommee (Euromodel)... on hold

Current WIP: Berlin by Corel

On Shelf:  HMS Bounty (Billings),

 

 

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  • 4 months later...

Looking at Mark's photo of the MicroMark, it appears to me that the Proxxon is for all practical purposes identical.  This is my Proxxon, to which I have added a micrometer-adjustable fence.  I find it will cut pretty consistently to +/- 0.003".

John

post-15507-0-44648200-1484320547_thumb.jpg

John

 

Past Builds:
Diorama, Washington & Philadelphia - 1776.  1:144 scale scratch build

Sir Edward Hawke - Schooner, 1776.  1:72 scale scratch build from H Hahn plans

Matthew - 1497.  1:25 scale scratch build from Colin Mudie plans

Mediterranean Cog - 1343.  1:40 scale scratch build from Xavier Pastor plans

Nonsuch - 1650.  1:32 scale Aeropiccola kit

Caustic - gunboat, 1776 . 1:36 scale scratch build

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

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The MicroMark is a licensed copy of the Proxxon.  So.... they should (operative word... should) be the same.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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JP, I purchased the MM feather boards for use with my Jim Byrnes say.  The bars were not the right fit for the mitre slots so I simply replaced the bars (can't think of the correct term at the moment) from some spares I had.  You could easily make them from hardwood, add a little wax for slide, install a bolt from underneath in a countersunk hole(s), at the appropriate point(s) so that it clears the top of the featherboard, and then add a washer and wing nut (the botlt etc from the MM featherboard can be utilised for this) - Voila :)  As the feather boards have a slot pre-cut, this makes them easy to adapt to other mitre slot bars.  If, like me you have a spare, unused or another bar from something you can sacrifice, the job is already done and you will have something that precisely fits your mitre slots..

 

cheers

 

Pat 

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Hi All,

 

Yesterday I made a MAJOR improvement to my Dremel 580. I installed the dust cover and vacuum port which includes a "lock-down" for the rear of the motor assembly (see pic.) below. It made a huge difference in the performance of the saw. After install, as a test, I was able to rip a 3/32nd" board out of a 3/4"x24"x4" piece of walnut and it measured out +/- 0.005". I started out slightly thicker and after a pass or two on my Byrnes thickness planer it was perfect. I'm pretty confident that I can get down 1/32" with a little practice. It's not a Byrnes Saw, but with Bill Wilson's add-ons, I'm all in at less than $150. When I do finally step-up to a Byrnes Saw, I will keep the Dremel for no other reason that one can adjust the angle of the blade.

 

Best,

John

 

post-18302-0-19346300-1484699789.jpeg

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DREMEL-580-TABLE-SAW-BACK-DUST-PLATE-W-BLADE-LOCK-/262810838186?hash=item3d30bf24aa:m:m18DMfN-8PCCfRd1-lx4vNg

Edited by Landlocked123

Member:

Connecticut Marine Model Society

Nautical Research Guild

Model Ship World

"So we beat on, boats against the current, bourne back ceaselessly into the past" F. Scott Fitzgerald - The Great Gatsby

"If at first you don’t succeed.......skydiving is probably not for you”

 

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