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IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC


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Once you start working with this small photo etch stuff, you'll probably find that a single PE bender is not enough. You'll want PE benders, plural.  :rolleyes:

They come in various shapes, sizes, and types. One will do a job the others won't, so multiple tools are preferable. Tamiya makes two different hand tool PE benders. Both are extremely useful for very small photo etch.

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Carl, it could be worse. You might be working in 1/700 scale, bending radars to shape.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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You could, ......... without PE it's not that difficult for someone of your prowess ;)

 

So I've opened the box of the Musashi for a sneak peek, but that hanger part is quite different from the new tool. I red somewhere that the Musashi was slightly longer than her sister ship. Odd there is no difference in kit length ... Hope to get my study moved to the new location this weekend so I can start on her. Like to see the differences with your build, Greg. Got some more tools coming - yes, PE related. Couldn't resist, but not those Tamiyah tools, gawd those are pricy for a pair of "pliers"

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Yes mate, they certainly are piracy but they are quite useful if not a little too big. Maybe a trip to a "beading" shop as they seem to have some useful hand tools? I think 1/700 is just a little too small for me to achieve the level of detail I'm after without the need of a magnifying glass.

Greg

 

 

 

 

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Then your eyesight it far superior to mine. I've seen some fiddly bits in the Pontos set for stairs and such, but I know before hand I'll have my eyes screw up in me head, and I take it there won't be much difference in the Pontos set for your Yamato, maybe even more fiddly.

 

The Tamiya benders were AU$ 57 here in the Netherlands, in the UK AU$ 46 (both exclusive shipping and handling), I'll have a look for a beading shop - put my wig on ;)

 

Cheers mate

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Au$25 here, have a look at Cornwall Boat models, they have heaps of excellent equipment and very reasonable. When I was building my Endeavour it was cheaper buying stuff from there than in Oz.

 

For some reason anything in Europe is far quicker to Oz than the US

Greg

 

 

 

 

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That's because it drops down ... under ;)

 

Thanks for the Cornwall Boats tip, forgot all about them ... I only think of them as model kit & drawing suppliers

 

Cheers mate

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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I love the progress on your Yamato, Greg. Looks super. 

My Yamato will sit for quite a while before I am ready to build it. Too many other models in the queue.

 

One thing to note, items from Japan have become much more competitively priced recently when ordering directly from Japan rather than local. Even with the shipping charges, I have bought several items at a much lower price than anything I could find in the USA. I ordered my Yamato from a shop in Japan and even with shipping, saved close to $100.

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Greg,

 

I just got the Anatomy of the Ship series for the Yamato, which in fact covers the Musashi too. Browsed through it, and found there is a hughe difference (PE wise) between the way she came from the slipway in 1941, and after a rather intense makeovers, one of which in 1943 fitting a.o  a type 21 radar fire control. In 1944 again improvement on radar, this time air, and surface radar, the surface radar looks more like  pair of loudspeakers to me, than radar.

 

I also saw I need some more information on the "rigging" as it is a tad hard to see where some of it goes and to what point it attaches. Do you have anything on it. I'm currently searching different fora

Carl

"Desperate affairs require desperate measures." Lord Nelson
Search and you might find a log ...

 

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Well, back from holidays, a little bit of work on the old girl today.

 

You cannot do anything with the Pontos instructions without other reference material. Moving on to the boat hangars, two for the smaller boats and two for the launches. The back deck includes nice bollards, (the holes in the kit need drilling out to widen), rails and equipment for the winch. You can see from the AOTS is is very busy below decks. post-253-0-89782200-1475905152_thumb.jpgpost-253-0-45601500-1475905160_thumb.jpg.

 

The etch is easy to use just somewhat tiny.post-253-0-20015200-1475905428_thumb.jpgpost-253-0-13980200-1475905457_thumb.jpg

 

For some reason only known to Pontos they do nothing with the hatches or windlass's. I used North star hatches and a Chrysanthemum windlass. You can see from what is circled what is the kit and what is replaced. post-253-0-81357200-1475905590_thumb.jpg

 

Then to add some realism, I have added some perforated gussets to the small boat hangars. As I intend to park some boat in there not much will be visible.post-253-0-66095400-1475905803_thumb.jpg

 

The larger hangars for the ships large launches are a work in progress but a lot is visible via large doors. I will finish this bit up when I put the hull together. This is all scratch and nothing to do with the kit or the pontos set.post-253-0-02622500-1475905828_thumb.jpgpost-253-0-06619600-1475905833_thumb.jpg

Greg

 

 

 

 

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Defiantly a lot going on in the hangers. I can only imagine what the superstructure would be like. Your a brave man. Nice work. Very neat straight and tidy.

Regards, Scott

 

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

 

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

 

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

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Great work! Is it just me, or is that diamond cross-hatch deck pattern out of scale? It seems way too large to me. 

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

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Continuing on withe the upper hull, I tried adding step ladders but not really happy with them so I will only do the one side.

 

There are about 250 deadlights where the portholes were covered later in the war. The kit just has them as blobs but as usual, there is an aftermarket for them.  About 2 days of painful work.

post-253-0-61292500-1476070894_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-77530700-1476070896_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-16375300-1476070902_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-02264700-1476070905_thumb.jpg

Greg

 

 

 

 

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Wow, that's a lot of porthole work. You have my respect for that challenge. What method do you use for a clean cut of the porthole from the brass "tree"? I can only imagine trying to file away a blemish from a porthole that wasn't cut perfectly away from the tree. Would be next to improbable if not impossible.

All I have done is stare at my brass porthole set with a feeling of dread. So small and delicate.

Edited by daddyrabbit1954
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Wow, that's a lot of porthole work. You have my respect for that challenge. What method do you use for a clean cut of the porthole from the brass "tree"? I can only imagine trying to file away a blemish from a porthole that wasn't cut perfectly away from the tree. Would be next to improbable if not impossible.

All I have done is stare at my brass porthole set with a feeling of dread. So small and delicate.

 

sore fingers and eyes and not to mention brass paper cuts  - I would have thought :o

 

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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I'm at a bit of a loss as what to do next, so I commenced the rear aircraft deck. There is a lot of work to do on it and I keep breaking 0.3mm drill bits in an attempt to make the 60 stanchion holes as it does not like the steel etch.

 

Multiple rails to be added and turntables, and underside there are the carriers for the ships launches.

post-253-0-93622300-1476154860_thumb.jpg

post-253-0-62185900-1476154869_thumb.jpg

Greg

 

 

 

 

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Some seriously nice PE detail there Greg; wonder you didn't go cross-eyed doing those porthole deadlights though :)

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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I'm at a bit of a loss as what to do next, so I commenced the rear aircraft deck. There is a lot of work to do on it and I keep breaking 0.3mm drill bits in an attempt to make the 60 stanchion holes as it does not like the steel etch.

 

Multiple rails to be added and turntables, and underside there are the carriers for the ships launches.

Now Thats the Business  gonna look Brill  ;):)

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Continuing on with the rear flight deck, there are 30 individual rails which consist of 2 pieces each which need t be glued together, making 69 bits to cut off and glue.post-253-0-79688000-1476233274_thumb.jpg

 

Once attached there is more to add, which are non slip lino strips with brass. 

post-253-0-78285300-1476233278_thumb.jpg

 

post-253-0-35669900-1476233282_thumb.jpgpost-253-0-76884000-1476233285_thumb.jpgpost-253-0-98970200-1476233288_thumb.jpgThen there are the turntables.

 

None of these are glued down yet as I will paint them individually.

 

I finally managed to drill out holes for the stanchions and now can flip it to add the underside details.

Greg

 

 

 

 

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Greg can i pick your brains please,  re - port hole pontos surrounds,  I have discoverd quite a few of my port holes have drilled slightly over scale, but tonight I have found about 40 or so in my pontos fret,  what would be the best and tidyest way to attach some of these,  would a pin work by sliding the surround onto the pin and dabbing a tiny bit of glue on the port hole, then by sliding the pin inside the port hole and sliding the surround into place,  would that work do you think?

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Use the eye end of a needle, dab some CA on it then into the plastic hole so it forms a glue rim, then use a sharpened pencil to place the metal porthole. If you don't do it this way the metal will stick to the pin as CA bonds to metal very very quickly but it won't stick to the pencil. Does that make sense? I don't use the portholes any more as the portholes only have eyebrows and I wasn't happy with the full circle look. Happy to explain more if required.

Greg

 

 

 

 

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Use the eye end of a needle, dab some CA on it then into the plastic hole so it forms a glue rim, then use a sharpened pencil to place the metal porthole. If you don't do it this way the metal will stick to the pin as CA bonds to metal very very quickly but it won't stick to the pencil. Does that make sense? I don't use the portholes any more as the portholes only have eyebrows and I wasn't happy with the full circle look. Happy to explain more if required.

Thanks for the help greg,  would undiluted PVA work as an adhesive using the same method you described?  it would be a lot cleaner and safer to the already painted sides.

 

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Nice job with that photo etch! You do a very good job with it!

-Elijah

 

Current build(s):

Continental Gunboat Philadelphia by Model Shipways

https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/15753-continental-gunboat-philadelphia-by-elijah-model-shipways-124-scale/

 

Completed build(s):

Model Shipways Phantom

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?showtopic=12376

 

Member of:

The Nautical Research Guild

N.R.M.S.S. (Nautical Research and Model Ship Society)

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