IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350 - PLASTIC

[popeye the sailor]

super job on the armament Greg.......all that repetition would be enough to drive anyone ga-ga.   they came out look'in great,  so it was worth it  

[RGL]

One thing about having a spare, is the ability to practice. Given the size of the hull I just cannot freehand a line perfectly strait for 60cm.

 

My plan is to do black lines to represent the armour plates and the lateral lines for the frames, which work at at 17mm x 10mm.

 

After three days I've figured out correct pressures to use the Vajello paints, now it a lesson in filling in the blanks and layering/modulating. The plan is to have visible plates on the hull, and unlike the new kit which has scribed armour plating the old kit does not so I can just respray and start from scratch until I get it right.

[Old Collingwood]

Sounds like a plan greg - one day I mite get an airbrush type thingy, till then I am resigned to using a hairy stick with a bit of watered down paint and blowing on it, guess that is my airbrush

 

 

OC.

[cog]

Greg,

 

If you want to make a longer straight line with you airbrush, or a paintbrush for that matter, use a stick to stabalise your hand. You've got two options (depending on the space you've got). You can fixate your hand/wrist on the stick and pull it sideways, or fixate the stick and move your hand over it using it as a rail. The former goes for painting with a brush when you need to have a stable position and you can't put your hand down where you want to, e.g. when correcting on the superstructure when it is fit to the hull

 

Cheers

Carl

[CDW]

The pro airbrush guys tend to use a two-handed technique to steady the hand holding the airbrush. In any event, it takes practice and muscle memory.

[CDW]

The pro airbrush guys tend to use a two-handed technique to steady the hand holding the airbrush. In any event, it takes practice and muscle memory.

A good friend does pin striping and custom paint work on cars and motorcycles. It's amazing to watch how steady and perfectly he can paint lines with either tool. But lots and lots of practice he's had. Many years. 

 

I think what Greg has done so far as seen in the pictures looks very very good considering he has very little practice. You're going to do just fine, Greg. Full speed ahead, mate. 

Edited January 19, 2017 by daddyrabbit1954

[RGL]

Thanks, if need be I can mask anyways, it's not cheating! The last photo of the old hull will be oversprayed multiple times until I'm happy.

[Old Collingwood]

The pro airbrush guys tend to use a two-handed technique to steady the hand holding the airbrush. In any event, it takes practice and muscle memory.

Im getting old - cant remember where I left my muscles

 

OC.

[cog]

Wrong topic OC, you should have posted here ... You are getting old I don't remember if I ever had any ...

 

 

Greg,

 

What needle do you use for the shadows, and what will you use for the covering layer?

Edited January 20, 2017 by cog

[popeye the sailor]

he....he....hee!  I just posted in that thread!   .......I dunno......I couldn't help it!    

[RGL]

I'm learning to drive the .15 and will probably use a .4 for overspray

[RGL]

OK, I'm starting to get the hang of it. Soft hands. Essentially once I started to use a different brand of paint it all came together. If I diluted the Vajello it splattered even at low pressure and then it clogs.

 

So, the practice hull, using some red I filled in the squares and oversprayed. The thing is with red, it does not cover very well, which actually makes this easier. Then some lighter red vertically along he ribs, which works really well giving a representation of a real thing. Now, credit where it is due, I am following Tamiya 1/350 Yamato (new tool) The definite mad edition:  on the ship model Forum, this guy is good and I have learnt a lot. I've only gone a bit further with PE he he does but he is simply marvelous with the airbrush.

 

 

So, the camera is not so sharp but the ribs really stick out, and as the old kit does not have the side band armor the horizontal lines are all over the place, but it is practice!

 

The upper hull, I have used the same technique, playing with the colour contrast to get the hang of it and applying diluted filters over the top.

 

Next is to practice the washes and the weathering. I know this is not the actual Yamato I am building, but given the investment, this is worth the time to get right. I have repeatedly over sprayed this hull and when I stuff up really really bad, no harm no foul.

Edited January 27, 2017 by Greg Lester

[CDW]

Thanks for that link. Will study it carefully when time permits.

You are going to have a lot of fun with that new airbrush. It opens up a whole new world of possibilities.

[yvesvidal]

Thanks for the link. This guy is amazing when it comes to painting with an airbrush.

His model placed in the right setting may pass easily for the real thing.

 

Yves

[BANYAN]

That looks great Greg, what paint did you end up using.  I will take a bit of time to look at that link also, looks very interesting.

 

Persistence pays off and I am glad you found something that works for you.  I think you have identified one of the issues I had (splatter (low pressure) - thanks for that

 

cheers

 

Pat

[RGL]

My plan is to try and emulate his work when it comes to painting and weathering. I love the idea of the ribs being visible

[RGL]

Ok,back to the kit. Using the Tamiya rattle can I have done the primer coat on the hull. All the gaps will be done with the airbrush as I have saved a lot of time.

 

After working on the old tool hull I forgot how detailed the new kit is to date. Before I go any further though, I have to attached the rear flight deck, which, for some reason has warped in the heat. One that is done I will have to add the support struts under the rear wings and a few ladders before I can start painting again. After a month of work, I'm back tomorrow and the kids are back at school so that will slow things down again.

 

You can see the old kit in the background, I've been playing around with weathering on it, but given the vast amount of detail on the new kit, I thought it time to take the plunge if I ever want to finish this monster.

[CDW]

Looks sweet! 

After watching you guys build your Japanese BB's (you and Carl), I think I'll wait for a while to start my 1:350 Yamato. So much detail on these monsters.  

[FatFingers]

Remarkable work, truly stunning. Regarding the hollowing of the hull showing the ribs. We used to call it the lean horse look. It is an efect specific to welded hulls and didn't appear on older riveted ships. I don't know enough of Yamato's history to know how she was constructed, Iowa was welded for example so they may have done the same for Yamato. To show what I mean there are some very good photograghs of HMS KGV in dry dock at Liverpool after she collided with and cut in half HMS Punjab which don't show the lean horse ribbing etc. on a contemporary riveted hull.

[RGL]

I have seen models where people have done rivets along the hull but they are so out of scale they would have caused enormous drag. Given how thick the armour belts are I would be surprised if they were visible but I like the effect and it will be very subtle. There really are no publically available shots of the ship in detail given the secrecy of the project, I have some leeway. I will use Dr Google and try and find some photos of IJN ships.

[BANYAN]

Great to have that old tooling hull to practice on; the actual model will look all the better for the practice.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[cog]

Mr Bunny,  That's a poor excuse, just follow the trail ........

 

Greg,

 

You might as well start on the new kit. Painting conditions alter from day to day anyway, so it will be different each day you pick up an airbrush. The hull, can't say I've seen anything decisive that she'd been rivited, neither to the contrary. I can't say one would see the rivets well at this scale, or as you wrote, they would probably so much ut of scale, it would not add to the detail of the kit. I do have seen an example of hul plating which was done with layers of primer, and scraping some of them down https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVULb3sOd2w and this one http://www.modelwarships.com/features/how-to/HullPlating/index.htm I found interestin. Considering your searches, you might have seen both of them thoug

 

Cheers

[RGL]

I've seen both and attempted it on my Dreadnought. The new tool does have nice horizontal plating.

Edited January 29, 2017 by Greg Lester

[cog]

I know ... the new tool (which I have not got) Rub it in mate ...

 

Befoe I forget to ask: isI the upper hull plating less high than the lower. That was something I saw in a topic on model warships

Edited January 29, 2017 by cog

[RGL]

I don't know, I'll take a photo when I do the black pre shading, but you could probably tell from the chap on the other forum or AOTS. I have pre ordered the new version of AOTS from Amazon UK which comes out in March and ships in about 4 days to OZ (unlike 6 weeks plus from the US). If I can have the hull sorted by then I can do alterations to anything above. I imagine the hull would have been very weathered by 1945 but it's like being a little bit pregnant, you are either fully blown or just showing.

[cog]

Didn't know you could get in that bodily state ...

 

How about amazon.com.au, isn't that faster and/or cheaper?

 

I wonder if it would be. When you look at the number of times both ships have been in harbour for refits, I wonder what they would have done against the weathering. The Japanese are quite meticulous about maintenance ... I for one wouldn't be surprised if they weren't as weathered as we expect them to be ...

[RGL]

True, but with so little reference material it's hard to know, so I'll stick to subtle.

[RGL]

And it's only available in Kindle here.

[cog]

Australia goes digital ? Gawd I hate reading such information (AOTS) from screen. As a programmer I should be used to it, but I still can't. I read thrice as fast from paper, and won't get headaches. I can't say a paper free environment is to my liking.

 

Luckily we build these in plastic. Would they dare to get us to build 3D digital ...

[RGL]

A few hours of cutting and bending, the support struts for the rear deck.

 

For some reason Pontos does not replace the ladders, maybe they did but there is no reference.

 

The struts in the kit come in one piece, but this is really nice and they fit perfectly. I have added the 4 aftermarket support struts to go under the triple 25mms from the hull as Tamiya do provide some but they are not perforated.

 

From these close ups you can see the hull lines and the deadyeyes that go over the portholes that are nicely detailed.