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IJN Yamato by RGL - FINISHED - Tamiya - 1/350

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Greg, paravanes are large and bulky, and depending on where stowed could be difficult to manoeuvre around the ship unless there was a nearby derrick / crane that had a long enough reach to lift the paravanes and put them outboard (for lowering into the sea).  I would have expected these to be closer to the quarterdeck or bow?  Paravanes were mainly used for mine sweeping, or in a secondary role as a splash target for gunnery practice, depending on how they were configured.  The configuration would make them either tow directly astern or swing out onto the quarters astern (minsweeping etc).  See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paravane_(weapon)   This article talks of them being towed from the bow, but in my time I only saw them used from aft - the bow m,akes sense for minesweeping purposes though.

 

The magazines may have been for ready use ammo for the smaller guns?

 

cheers

 

Pat

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I expect they are bedrolls used as splinter shields.

Thank for the reply and sorry for the keyboard spelling - must teach mine to spell.

 

Interesting what you said - she only seemed to have them during 1944 - nothing shown prior to that.

 

 

OC.

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Sorry to highjack your log, Greg

 

OC,

 

These batlleships have been in and out harbour during their existence to improve and add to their armament and radar, They have changed and added quite a few bits and pieces in the last two years alone e.g.: Anti aircraft armament and radar

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OC no problems at all, that's how we learn, it should be a free flow of knowledge. The instructions from Tamiya have the Paravanes sitting on the rear ramp of the secondary gun turret superstructure but I just don't see how you'd get them down as I imagine they're fairly heavy. The reference material is fairly guesswork but the Japanese have just st re released their Model Art line drawings based on "new research" from the submersible on the wreck. I have ordered it and yet to see what difference there is. I understand the Japanese destroyed all records of this class of ship so the real sailors on this forum have a lot of common sense to offer.

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Ok, the new book arrived, an Tamiya was correct after all (to a point). Different handrail configurations and you can see the old book on the right which mirrors the AOTS.;post-253-0-39123900-1478652604_thumb.jpgpost-253-0-14358000-1478652619_thumb.jpg

 

The aft secondary gun mount was fairly simple, add some step ladders, hand rails and extra rivet strips, and of course another ventilator intake which for some unknown reason was completely omitted. A simple bit of PE layering plus a plastic strip cowl edge. When painted it won't looks so bad and when on it the kit it will hardly be seen.post-253-0-40893000-1478652632_thumb.jpgpost-253-0-72256100-1478652643_thumb.jpg

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Now the secondary turrets.post-253-0-22816900-1479005940_thumb.jpg Thinking these are 15.5cm, they are tiny compared to the big guns. The array on top will be rigged up much later in the build but they stay stationary when the turret rotates.post-253-0-23863300-1479005926_thumb.jpg but their tripod configuration is different and much more tricky on the forward turret.

 

Again the barrels and blast bags are replaced, I have left off the ladders and stanchions again but placed the handrails.

 

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Slowly moving on, the main tower pagoda. The support struts below the bridge are replaced with etch and a template is provided. This is taking a fair while, not because it's overly hard, just that the instructions require a lot of interpretation. There is a major flaw in the rear of this that will have to be rectified.

 

I have drilled out all the portholes but left the ringols as they are sufficient. I will also replace all the doors.

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Tamiya omit several doors at the rear of the structure and add an extra ladder which is not in the other reference material. I quite like replacing the doors as when painted it is easier to wash them and then drybrush them to bring out the fact there are doors (hatches) not lumps. Finally the front adding the first of the Tamiya individual stanchions and a ladder from spares. 

 

There are a multitude of range finders etc to be added yet but they will be painted off kit.

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Continuing on, I have added some handrails along the superstructure mentioned in the reference stuffpost-253-0-41337300-1479700514_thumb.jpg. Then the air defence bridge has been added, adding some voice pipes and dialspost-253-0-34642400-1479700504_thumb.jpgpost-253-0-96647600-1479700498_thumb.jpg. Finally to put it in perspective, it is parked on the ship whilst I do the radars.post-253-0-96770800-1479700510_thumb.jpg

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It's just a massive task keeping track of it all. I have taken to buying Tupperware containers to separate the built components. It's been 4 days work on this tiny piece alone, adding to the add ons such as hand rails, and this is just the structure without all the turrets yet alone detailing those was well.

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It's just a massive task keeping track of it all. I have taken to buying Tupperware containers to separate the built components. It's been 4 days work on this tiny piece alone, adding to the add ons such as hand rails, and this is just the structure without all the turrets yet alone detailing those was well.

I can relate to that no end - I wont dare start anything small till the hull is completed and sparayed underneath with flat topcoat, I keep all my stuff tooked away in the main box and other build boxes, only getting stuff out when I am working on her, afterwards its all packed away and the table is left clear, the hull is kept on the shelf where she will live when finished.

 

OC.

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Thanks folks, the level of detail is pretty good, but there is still a lot missing much to my frustration. If it was wood I could scratch build it. One piece went somewhere, no idea, my 11year old eventually asked me (after a solid hour on the computer near my workstation) if I found it? No! A 2 minute scratch build solved it (you'd struggle to see it on this piece but it's there). There will come a day when then metal ships come completely in metal, the Flyhawk brand has a AUD $250 upgrade which I would love to have as well but only one fret of 9 that I would require. You would think for the price it would just have everything. Rant over, the 6 square metres of mulch on my front lawn will not move itself. Thanks for the likes!

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Greg,

 

You forget that wood is often built at a (slightly) larger scale. You'd probably find the part that got away more easily too (depending on your carpet monster's teeth length). I do have a full metal ship kit ... but it's tiny, from SteelGolem. Quite nice, but expensive for the size ...

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Hi Greg, excellent work. I am totally befuddled using CA on parts mostly at the scale of the Yamato. No matter what advice is given I fail miserably. Could you please relate some of your techniques as it appears to come very easy for you.

 

Thanks,

 

IR3

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It's all piece work, don't cut it off until you're ready to use it, get a PE bender and the best tweezers you can buy and a set of flat beading pliers. Finish one piece completely, store it, until you have all the assemblies ready, then paint them, then throw it together. That way adding the bits you miss is easier, and easier to repair off kit than on kit, making ire you know where your rigging points are beforehand so you can add belaying points. Much like a tall ship it is very hard to reach in to add something once it's all together.

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Greg I think ir3 may have been wanting to know how you apply the CA? I'd be interested also :)  After dry fit and painting off the assembly, do you apply the CA to the part or to the assembly?  What do you use to apply the CA and what sort thin or gel or...

 

I have been watching some YouTube (aircraft) modelling tips and they often place the part then apply a thin glue and allow it to wick into the joints; can you do that with  thin CA?

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

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Just my 2 cents worth Pat, and I don't want to hi-jack Greg's remarkable build thread, but I think if you use medium CA it will give you about 4-8 seconds moveability time per piece. thin you have not much hope unless the piece is already firmly in place and you just want to reinforce it. Medium (green bottle) Zap-a-Gap is really good. But again, as Greg says, make sure you have everything ready to go and glue before opening the glue bottle. personally I just use el cheapo toothpicks to apply a small amount to the surface.

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Depends on the piece; I use Thin sometimes but it dries incredibly quickly so if the angle is off you have to scrape the piece off. I find the thin does not adhere as well as the medium.

 

Vossy is right that medium gives you some seconds grace and bonds better.

 

I use off cuts from frets cut to a point, or pins which have to be burnt repeatedly to stop build up. The advantage of using off cuts is you can snip it back again and again for a fresh nib or the width you want.

 

I generally pour a drop onto a piece of plastic and dip it in then on.

 

Does that answer or would a pictorial help?

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