Tigersteve

18th Century Longboat by Tigersteve - Model Shipways

126 posts in this topic

Windlass and handles are complete. I drew reference lines and that helped while filing the shape. This part was enjoyable to make. You'll notice an extra windlass I did freedhand now scrap. I completed the horse. It was difficult to get the wire straight. One of my drill bits broke so no oarlocks for now.

Steve

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Thanks Chuck and everyone for all the likes! In the middle of another redo with the oarlocks. I had them installed but I rushed it a bit so naturally it has to be redone. Probably a week to correct this with the filling of holes, sanding, painting, etc.

 

Here's some photos of other progress: belay pins painted (photo of the paint used). Pleasantly surprised by the quality of this paint. Metal work for the rudder and such is shown along with the horse and windlass handles on the side for now while the caprail gets repainted and oarlocks installed.

Steve

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In the second round of installing the oarlocks, I used a straight edge to draw a line roughly in the center of the caprail in the locations where the oarlocks would be placed. I then used a small file to draw two equally spaced perpendicular lines. This method worked much better for me. Not perfect but I'm getting used to drilling these tiny holes!

 

Repainting the caprail was not fun. I wanted to see how Minwax Polycrylic(water based) satin would look over the paint job. I think it provided a little more sheen than the Minwax WOP. It certainly dries quicker and no time to buff to dull the shine. It's a little more shine than I want, but I think I may accept it, as the idea of painting it again is exhausting.

 

The rudder setup is just about done. The tiller has been shaped and stained. I will install on the next updates. I think I'll work on the oars next.

Steve

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Erik W, hexnut, davec and 6 others like this

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I thought I'd post an "intermission" photo of my workshop. It's a small operation.

 

Still not sure if I'm redoing this paint job. What are your thoughts?

Steve

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Ryland Craze and Karleop like this

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Spent the week working on the oars. I did this in a few stages. First I drew a line down the center so I could taper the blades. I used a sanding block to round off the corners then switched to a folded piece of sandpaper to finish rounding the edges.

 

I thinned everything down as close to the plans as possible so the proportions would look correct. I tried a different color scheme than I've seen in other logs. The photo shows several coats of paint and WOP applied. I could not capture a great photo.

Steve

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It was at this point in the build that I was going to switch to the Pinnace and come back to this later, but I have changed directions. I will display them separately. I made a small modification to the rudder (can you tell what it is?). Here's photos of where it stands.

 

Masting and rigging is next!

Steve

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Dubz, AStevenson, jct and 9 others like this

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With the inability to drill perfectly vertical by hand into the mast dowel, I am looking into purchasing a drill press or Dremel Rotary tool workstation. I own a WEN Rotary tool and would want to use that in the workstation. I like the idea of being able to mount the rotary tool. I have no idea if it would fit.

 

On these types of purchases I like to think long term. I would appreciate any thoughts and advice. I was looking at these options:

Dremel 220-01 Rotary Tool Workstation Drill Press Work Station with Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068P48O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fqHJyb2C31Y3X

 

WEN 4208 8-Inch 5 Speed Drill Press https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQONFVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ezHJybMFQJF99

Steve

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50 years ago, I bought a bench top drill press. It is a ruggedly built tool made from machined cast iron. I believe that it cost somewhere between 250 and 300 US. As a recently married young man just beginning an engineering career buying it was a big deal. I still use it on a daily basis. It has drilled holes for wood canvas canoe restoration, sailboat repair, gunsmithing, household repairs, and model ship building. With the Jacobs Chuck replaced.by a locked on collet chuck it will accept router bits. It has a foolproof belt drive with stepped pulleys. It is not a Delta or other well known brand, but it is a workhorse.

 

It's only limitation is that the chuck will not close on drill bits smaller than 3/32 in. This limitation is easily overcome by chucking small bits in an inexpensive machinist's pin vice and then chucking the pin vice in the Jacobs Chuck. Otherwise the tool is far more versitle than the Dremel products.

 

If I needed to replace it I would buy the same sort of tool today, except I would probably pay less. Big box home improvement stores sell similar drill presses today for less than I paid 50 years ago. Check them out.

 

Roger

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After posting. I looked up the WEN drill press- kinda like reading the instructions after assembling the gadget! Anyhow the WEN drill press is the kind of tool that I am talking about. If I were buying though, I would like to be able to see what I am buying first. Two concerns : first shaft runout is mentioned. What kind of bearings does the tool have? You want one with ball bearings. Second, what is the smallest drill that the chuck will close on. I would like to think that in the past 50 years you can now buy a 1/2 inch chuck that will close to zero. It would also be nice to find one with a chuck that fits a standard US Morse taper but at this price this is probably asking too much.

 

Roger

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Thank you for the feedback, Rodger. Definitely things to consider. I suppose I could also use rotary tool accessories in a drill press for things like sanding, etc. I will have to look more into it. I am open to any recommendations from people as well.

 

Other issue is budget. Hence why my other option is purchasing something that can mount my rotary tool and also serve as a drill press.

Steve

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Thanks again everyone for the likes and support. I hope all my fellow longboat builders are progressing with their builds. Mine is moving at a snail's pace at the moment. Shaping the mast, boom, bowsprit, and gaff with my drill as a lathe was an easy task. However, crafting the gaff jaws has been tricky. I'm on my second round of it. Below is a rough photo of this work since it may be a while before this stage is complete.

Steve

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3rd round of gaff jaw production now. Really hating basswood at the moment. I am determined to succeed though. Wood keeps splitting near the holes. Not purchasing better wood until the next project.

Steve

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I know this is not much of an update for you folks, but this took me a long time to complete. Here's the work after the snapping of 5 drill bits, 1 broken mast, and 3 productions of gaff jaws. The jaws are made from one piece of wood and could still be a little thinner, but I'm hoping it won't look out of scale on the model. Drilling the tiny holes has been a challenge throughout the project for me.

 

Ironwork and chainplates will be fabricated next. After that I will construct the display base before the rigging.

Steve

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Erik W, Cathead, GuntherMT and 3 others like this

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Chainplates, deadeyes, and remaining metalwork are done! I should rename this build log "That was Harder than Expected". I didn't expect drilling holes in the tiny brass strips would be possible so my solution was to use eyehooks instead. I should have been more selective with the deadeyes as the holes are drilled better in some. It's not perfect but hopefully it won't be noticeable after the lanyards are tied.

 

I'm going to work on the display stand next. I have a new presentation planned that I haven't seen on MSW before so hopefully it comes out as planned.

Steve

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Steve - Looks great! You've inspired me to pull mine back out. What are you using for the black paint?

Tigersteve likes this

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excellent work Steve,

love that boat and the way you`re fitting it out    :)

 

Nils

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I had the same problem, not thinking I could drill into the brass strips. Using eyebolts is a great solution, wish I'd thought of it!

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I like the eyebolt solution instead of drilling. Saved you some time, I guess.

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Hi Steve... I'm beat. Time to take a break from my project and take a look at some else's... in this case yours! I won't ask any question as I haven't read all the posts yet. Nevertheless, I particularly like the "crispness" of your model and it takes lots of time to get it that way. So keep up the good work.

Mike

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Thank you everyone for the likes and kind words! Mike, I appreciate your comments. I do a little bit of work at a time in efforts to keep it "crisp". ;-)

Steve

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The display base is inspired by the Brig Syren's longboat lashed to its deck. I used Chuck's practicum as a guide for designing the gallows bits and tried to proportion the measurements. Attached is a photo of the measurements I used. I ended up using the 3/16" planking stock from the Pinnace kit. I plan to use maple for that kit anyway. 

The kit supplied display board was warped and unusable so I used a 4"x8" basswood board, which was planked over with the 3/16" stock. This display will allow me to present the oars on the gallows bits. Haven't decided if I will "lash" the boat as well. I'm considering adding "iron" rings to the base/deck as well. Any thoughts??

Steve 

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Steve,

Very nice stand!

Don't you think it will compete with the longboat for attention though?

Jack12477 likes this

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Thanks guys! Nirvana, I had those thoughts, but I could not resist following through with this idea. Originally, I hadn't planned on planking the base. Now I must decide: iron rings or no iron rings. I'm thinking a row of 5 on each side. (Below photo shows rings dry fit and need to be blackened)

Have no fear, when the oars are placed on the gallows bits, it balances the presentation. 

Steve

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Steve,

If you are to lash the boat, are you going to make her with her rigg unmounted? But still have everything viewable. Having the mast and boom placed on the gallows too.

I can agree with you as for the base provided in the kit. It need some job to be part of the whole presentation.

 

Tigersteve likes this

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I was considering that presentation as well. I'm leaning towards fully rigging her though. For now at least. I really want to lash her though either way. (Sounds terrible, doesn't it? ;-) I picked up some cotton thread at the craft store for the rigging. I may use the kit provided tan for the lanyards and grapnel coil to add some dimension to the rigging. In my head it all looks great! 

Steve

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