Tigersteve

18th Century Longboat by Tigersteve - Model Shipways

126 posts in this topic

Steve,

At JoAnns I had a great service experience with one of the ladies working there.

I told her what I was up to, and showed a picture. That really made my day as she called on co-worker around her.

Suddenly I had three ladies explaining differences and quality of threads. They all agreed that a combination called poly/cotton would be the best for me.

Pure cotton is breaks easily under tension and has "hair", while the poly/cotton doesn't.

Looking forward to see your rigging.

Karleop, donrobinson and Jack12477 like this

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Thank you for the info. I will return the thread I bought and pick up some poly/cotton. I just about completed adding chainplates and deadeyes. I completed the iron rings for the display but didn't like the way they looked. Ended up filling the holes. I have to refinish it. I will post a photo of the stand and boat when that's compete. I have to adjust one deadeye. 

Steve

Nirvana likes this

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Bowsprit step, deadeyes, chainplates installed. Needless to say it was difficult. You'll notice filled holes on the display base. No iron rings will be installed. Annoying lesson learned.

 

Now to make a decision on the rigging: fully rigged (boat unlashed) or partially rigged with mast on the gallows bits along with oars and such stowed in the boat and on the bits (boat lashed to four eyehooks that would be installed on the base. Many rope coils will be needed. Any thoughts?

Steve

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It'd be most realistic, and unique, to present it unrigged and lashed down as it really would be on the deck, especially given the way you've built the stand. I like that idea as a creative approach to a common model. But of course presenting it fully or partially rigged has a lot of visual appeal, and few people will care that you have it displayed on a "deck" while still rigged.

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I appreciate all the feedback and likes. I remade one chainplate/deadeye as I did not like how it was sitting higher than the other deadeye. Found a better way to make it by wrapping the wire around the deadeye and making the seam near the opening for the nail. 

 

Decision made about the rigging. I will present it partially rigged and lashed down (mast and oars on the gallows bits). Thank you, Cathead, for the encouragement! I think I was leaning towards this from the start. 

 

I unraveled the ME line. It seems useless for the tasks ahead. I picked up some poly/cotton thread. I'm going to get a spool of brown as well. Take a look at the line that came with the kit compared to the spools I purchased for about $1.50 each. 

Steve

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Paint touch up and refinishing some parts before stropping blocks,

seizing line, and creating rope coils. In the meantime, I have been planning the layout of all parts inside and out of the boat. I took my first reference photo. All parts are not included yet.  

Steve

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I agree with Per, very nice setup.

 

BTW, I gave up on ME line a long time ago and switched to Chuck's line (Syren), much much better.

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Thank you, gentlemen! I have all the plans for the rigging and layout running through my head. Needed to get a reference photo out here. I'm unsure if the rudder will be installed or stowed. I don't want to obscure the details inside the boat. The windlass handles will most likely be installed as well. The oars will need to be kept on the gallows bits. 

 

Yes, the ME line looks like a lost cause. I will use Syren rope for the Mayflower. 

Steve

Karleop, Nirvana and donrobinson like this

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Steve,

I used lines from Chuck, really good investment!

When it came to the seizing I used the poly/cotton thread from the fabric store.

donrobinson likes this

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Just a small update. I stropped these four blocks with hooks. Two 3/32" blocks for the Stay sail and Jib sail halyard and two 1/8" blocks that will hook to the mast. The two hooks below will be stropped to 1/8" blocks with rope to hook to the backstay chainplates.

 

Roughly four hours of work. Good practice making hooks. Oh, did I mention they are tiny? 

Steve

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Hola Steve:

Very nice hooks. Are they made with brass wire and blackened or did you use another material?

 

Saludos, Karl

Nirvana and donrobinson like this

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Thanks so much, guys! Sam- I am excited I can present the longboat in a different way. I really like your unique presentation of it as well.

 

Karl- the hooks are made from 28 gauge wire that came with the kit. Scratched them up a bit so I need to do some touchup before install. I just realized today that I need to make two more hooks so the lashing of the boat can take place. 

Steve

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Significant progress on the blocks. I used the method described in the article below, but I used white glue and a simple overhand knot for the seizing. There's a bit of excess rope because I didn't want to cut too close to the knot (done this already!). A thinner line for the seizing would make the excess rope invisible. The rope coils should hide some of this. 

Steve

 

http://www.modelboatyard.com/stropping.html

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The backstay pendents make up the last of the blocks. I used brown rope for these, using the rigging plan to measure the length. These will be presented onboard the longboat in the rope coil you see in the photo. Roughly three hours of work. 

Steve

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Fore stay deadeye is complete. Again, the length taken from the rigging plan. Two overhand knots were used for the seizing. I used mini clothspins for spacers. This will also be presented onboard in the rope coil shown in the photo. (It's much cleaner in person!)

 

The remaining four deadeyes will be seized to the mast. 

Steve

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Thanks everyone for the nice comments and likes. Shroud pairs are complete.

 

Used a touch of CA on the rope and tightened the two overhand knots for each deadeye over the CA. This allowed me to work quickly and cut excess rope a little closer to the knot. I coated the assembly with diluted white glue. Again, the length of rope was taken from the rigging plan. They will be seized to the mast next. 

 

These photos show crazy detail, but it looks clean to the naked eye. 

Steve

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Beautiful job Steve!

I used white glue instead of CA, I did it just as a personal preference.

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