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CA Glue Residue

Is there any good way to get rid of CA Glue residue. I can see it after I planked my false deck. I've sanded which helped a lot but I'm afraid to sand further. I'm hoping now there is a chemical solution that is effective

 

I'm sorry if this has been asked previous but I couldn't find my answer by searching the forum. I looked for about 10 minutes without luck. Sometimes it's easier to simply ask a question, even though it may have been asked a few times in the past.

thibaultron and donrobinson like this

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Do a test on the same kind of wood and C/A as used on the deck but using a solvent based clear coat over the sanded deck does in many cases make the residue disappear - as long as it's not a build up but soaked into the wood. 

Kurt

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CA can be a friend or your worst enemy, for the stains and depending on the kind of ca you have use the results are different. I have found that when using medium viscosity ca it is best to let it dry before trying to clean. The thin ca tends to soak through the wood, as it is meant to do, and is very hard to get stains out especially on thin planks such as  .5 mm planks.

 Scraping first instead of sanding is paramount, scrape until the shavings are wood coloured and not white(white is the ca), sanding will often hide the stain. 

 Holding your model up to a light at different angles will show you "shiny " areas which are also ca that need to be removed.

 The upshot of it all is to scrape before you sand.

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Acetone is usually recommended to dissolve CA glue, but try not to get it on your skin, it pretty strong stuff. Some will probably still remain in the wood pours.

thibaultron and Canute like this

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Hey Derek

I use to work part time in a hobby shop and we sold CA debonder. A few guys used it to do just that, just make sure not to let it soak into the joints as it will debond with time. A little on a Qtip and then do as Don says and scrape away.

Cheers

 

PS If you cant find debonder you can also try nail polish remover, lemon juice or mineral oil.

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Debonder is usually acetone with some things added.  I don't think mineral oil or lemon juice would work... I'll have to test next time I play with the CA.

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I'm with you MT. The other stuff in debonder is gel to slow down the very rapid evap rate of the acetone and dye so you can see where you put it. Walgreens sells an acetone based nail polish remover with ingredients to prevent dry skin. Cheap and effective. Acetone is very flammable because it's so volatile but actually is not harmful to the atmosphere because it has no effect on the Ozone layer. I find the Q-tip method the best. I am dubious that lemon juice or mineral oil would work

Jaxboat

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Just a warning/caution about using acetone....

 

ALWAYS in a well ventilated area.  Not just because it's flammable but the fumes are hazardous to your health.  All my solvent work (acetone, toulene, etc. gets done in the garage with the doors open.  

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Mark,

 

I knocked over a bottle of CA that was behind my model and was unaware before I realized it my eyes started watering smell awful. Clean up was a mess ruined a large cutting mat and took off the paint in 1 foot circle on the desk.

 

Since then have a container that can't be knocked over by accident, by cat, or dog. It was an eye closing experience. <_<

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Acetone is the best solvent to remove CA glue.
Ethyl acetate is usually good for other glues.
I work in a chemical plant where glue is made (30 years experience)

 

Please be careful with toluene, xylene and others.
Those are VERY hazardous to your health.

 

a solution not to knock over glue bottles during modeling.
post-24614-0-41772000-1487100764_thumb.jpg

 

Groetjes

Greetings

 

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The best solution is don't use it, IMHO.   Aliphatic works on wood far better and epoxy for bonding metal to wood is a great choice.   Metal to metal, best is to silver solder. 

 

I have never found CA to be friendly and only use it to temporarily tack two pieces with tiny spots of the gel form to hold things until the wood glue cures. Another  example - when securing things such as hinge plates for a rudder onto the hull, TINY spots of CA gel hold the piece in place while they are then fixed in place with miniature bolts (pins). 

 

The best thing I have seen CA do well is to temporarily hold a bad laceration closed until stitches are put in place. :o

 

Allan

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