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Restoration of Bassett Lowke "Albertic" by michael mott - FINISHED - Scale 1:100


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Thanks for the visits and positive comments.

 

Wefalck the hoses are very flexible. The small magnet holds the torch very well but is easy to lift off.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Michael: Acquired one of those, ' Smith, The Little Torch ', setups with the hose, torch and tips, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6. Tip number 1, 2 and 3 are tips with sapphire orifices. This torch being a gift has resided in the box for a few years, have looked it over and read the manual to see what I had. Felt it was worth keeping around for small soldering and brazing jobs, perhaps even some torch welding could be done with it. Have a couple of acetylene torches, each with their own carts, own the bottles and the regulators are two stage regulators so from what I read in this little torch manual was of the opinion I could use one of my torch setups by attaching to my existing regulators and use oxygen and acetylene in the little torch. Manual calls for tip numbers 2 and 3 for that gas combination. You apparently sought out some advice from an experienced user and chose to use propane and oxygen with a number 4 tip, matches my manual instructions. Now I get to my question, why choose propane when you already have an Oxegen - Acetylene setup with regulators, you must have a good reason for that choice, could you enlighten me please?

jud

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Hi Jeff

Thanks for the article.

 

Hi Jud

I was talking to the jeweler about doing some very small silver soldering n the broken stanchions and talked about a small torch for my ox-acetylene set up and he said to use the oxy-propane because it was much cleaner, that there was no soot with the propane. when he lit the propane it was very clean burning and then he turned on the oxygen and gave me a demo of the little torch. I was impressed with the way he handled it. I still have my Acetylene torch and for some work I will still use it. 

 

I hope this answers your question adequately.

 

Michael 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Hi Michael,

You are correct.

 

As an X welder/fabricator Acetylene has carbon black in it when it burns. Propane is super clean. When I was a fabricator/drilling rig builder a guy turned me on to using propane and O2 for flame cutting with a torch. It doesn't burn as hot as Acetylene but you get hardly any slag and a super clean cut. I am 100% convinced you are going to love your set up. If you purchase the proper tips for your shop cutting torch you can get rid of acetylene and switch over to propane and cut your costs by more than half.

 

Your little torch would be right at home on my jewelers bench conversion. I know wishful thinking on my part. LOL

PS I hope the PDF I sent you helps with your build!

 

Jeff

Edited by Chasseur

A mighty fortress is our God a bulwark never failing!

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Hi Jeff

Thanks for the article.

 

Hi Jud

I was talking to the jeweler about doing some very small silver soldering n the broken stanchions and talked about a small torch for my ox-acetylene set up and he said to use the oxy-propane because it was much cleaner, that there was no soot with the propane. when he lit the propane it was very clean burning and then he turned on the oxygen and gave me a demo of the little torch. I was impressed with the way he handled it. I still have my Acetylene torch and for some work I will still use it. 

 

I hope this answers your question adequately.

 

Michael 

Michael, thanks, suspected it may have had something to do with the soot that can come from acetylene.

 

Let me add, You are doing an exceptional job on your restoration project. Frankly I expected to see the parts returned or replaced but most of the damage obvious in the finished project, wrong again.

Edited by jud
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Again thanks for all the positive feedback and for the quiet visits. I set up the soldering area today and put all the broken ends back on the top handrail stanchions. I had a couple of minor issues but they will be solved fairly easily I think.

 

to recap this is what happened to the top handrail, it was bent over and 6 of the stanchions were broken at mostly the bottom rail.

post-202-0-47774500-1485994792_thumb.jpg

 

I began adding the broken bottom parts of the handrail used the #4 tip

 

post-202-0-51805500-1485995068_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-52480500-1485995224_thumb.jpg

 

All 6 soldered on with a couple of these to add to my work.

 

post-202-0-19958200-1485995364_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-35727200-1485995105_thumb.jpg

 

Next task was to do a quick test fit

 

post-202-0-37313900-1485995449_thumb.jpg

 

so I am relatively happy with the effort. Now to clean it up and fix the meltdowns.

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by michael mott

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Nicely done Michael. some awkward shapes to control there.

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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Hi Druxey, yes I need to replace a couple of 1/2 inch sections of horizontal rail wire. which is 22 gauge nickle silver.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Again thanks for all the positive feedback and for the quiet visits. I set up the soldering area today and put all the broken ends back on the top handrail stanchions. I had a couple of minor issues but they will be solved fairly easily I think.

 

to recap this is what happened to the top handrail, it was bent over and 6 of the stanchions were broken at mostly the bottom rail.

attachicon.gifIMG_8009x1024.jpg

 

I began adding the broken bottom parts of the handrail used the #4 tip

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1705x1024.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1706x1026.jpg

 

All 6 soldered on with a couple of these to add to my work.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1710x1024.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1715x1024.jpg

 

Next task was to do a quick test fit

 

attachicon.gifIMG_1719x1024.jpg

 

so I am relatively happy with the effort. Now to clean it up and fix the meltdowns.

 

Michael

 

Good clean work Michael,

 

the ship will look like new again after that excellent restoration of yours...

 

Nils

Current builds

-Lightship Elbe 1

Completed

- Steamship Ergenstrasse ex Laker Corsicana 1918- scale 1:87 scratchbuild

"Zeesboot"  heritage wooden fishing small craft around 1870, POB  clinker scratch build scale 1:24

Pilot Schooner # 5 ELBE  ex Wanderbird, scale 1:50 scratchbuild

Mississippi Sterwheelsteamer built as christmapresent for grandson modified kit build

Chebec "Eagle of Algier" 1753--scale 1:48-POB-(scratchbuild) 

"SS Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse" four stacker passenger liner of 1897, blue ribbond awarded, 1:144 (scratchbuild)
"HMS Pegasus" , 16 gun sloop, Swan-Class 1776-1777 scale 1:64 from Amati plan 

-"Pamir" 4-mast barque, P-liner, 1:96  (scratchbuild)

-"Gorch Fock 2" German Navy cadet training 3-mast barque, 1:95 (scratchbuild) 

"Heinrich Kayser" heritage Merchant Steamship, 1:96 (scratchbuild)  original was my grandfathers ship

-"Bohuslän" , heritage ,live Swedish museum passenger steamer (Billings kit), 1:50 

"Lorbas", river tug, steam driven for RC, fictive design (scratchbuild), scale appr. 1:32

under restoration / restoration finished 

"Hjejlen" steam paddlewheeler, 1861, Billings Boats rare old kit, scale 1:50

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Impressive, Michael.  Looks perfect from here.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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railings came out quite well .....even the outer wall  ;)    super!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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Why only 'relatively happy', why not just unconditionally happy?

From the pivctures it looks all fine.

Jan the pictures are lying.

 

 

I like the idea of integrating a pin-vice. Also, you got now nice ball- handles !

Wefalck,  I only made the ball handles on the prototype, they take a long time to make.

 

 

the ship will look like new again after that excellent restoration of yours...

Actually Nils I am hoping that the ship will look like it hasn't been repaired and looks like it was built in 1920 something.

 

Mark and Denis thanks for you positive comments.

 

I spent a bit of time in the big city today visiting my silversmith friend who just happened to have some .8mm nickel silver pins which I pulled through the draw-plate down to .45mm. so I now have enough wire to fix the melted sections and all other very bent parts.

 

post-202-0-17813500-1486172107_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-70576000-1486172128_thumb.jpg

 

I also noticed that the stanchions are painted which will make matching the discolored ones easier to match.

 

Michael

 

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Michael, was that typical of the sort of material used in ship models of that period?  Was brass wire available back then?

 

I think you are well on your way to achieving your stated aim  of no noticeable repairs and looking like as he should for an older model.  i know the camera can show or hide a multitude of  thing, but looking closely the is not much to show of where you repaired her (and I mean that as a compliment)

 

cheers

 

Pat

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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How difficult is it to draw nickel silver?

Druxey I was very surprised at how easy the whole drawing operation was. The most fiddly part was filing the end down to fit through the next size smaller hole so that it can be grabbed with the draw pulling pliers. The last draw almost doubled the length of the wire. My friend says that the smaller the diameter the easier it get to pull, she is correct on that score. The first two pulls were the hardest to pull but with each hole after it became easier. Sometimes it helps to use a little wax on the wire but I did not need it.

 

 

Michael, was that typical of the sort of material used in ship models of that period?  Was brass wire available back then?

Pat I am not sure if it was typical, the company Basset Lowke used a mix of brass copper and Nickel silver (German Silver) in this model. Brass was certainly a common metal. One of the tests will be to see how well I can put the patina on it so as to match the other wire, I think that the hot air soldering gun will be the tool to use.

 

As I mentioned earlier the stanchions have been painted it is almost like a stain it is so thin and the colour on most of the handrail look like a ringer for the patina on the aged nickel silver. The top flat handrail is brass and painted a brown colour.

 

Once I get the colour right I think I will add enough wire to span a couple of stanchions and but the one end ext to the silver soldered one and feed the other end into the middle of the other stanchion and use the hot air gun to soft solder the end.

 

Its good to explain this because it is helping me sort it all out before I get on with it.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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What can I say, Michael, beautiful restoration and a fine tutorial to go with it.  Well done. 

 

Bob

Every build is a learning experience.

 

Current build:  SS_ Mariefred

 

Completed builds:  US Coast Guard Pequot   Friendship-sloop,  Schooner Lettie-G.-Howard,   Spray,   Grand-Banks-dory

                                                a gaff rigged yawl,  HOGA (YT-146),  Int'l Dragon Class II,   Two Edwardian Launches 

 

In the Gallery:   Catboat,   International-Dragon-Class,   Spray

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Thanks to all who have looked in and for the positive comments.

 

Today I made the choice to replace a few of the stanchions which I was not happy with. I cut the ones I want to replace out of the rail this is one of them

 

post-202-0-88619900-1486245722_thumb.jpg

 

First I made a form tool to shape the rounded parts, and also used the small parting tool to make them from some 3/16 round stock. The 3/16 is strong enough that I can begin at the bottom and shape the first 1/4 inch or so while the rest is still 3/16 for support.

 

post-202-0-54987900-1486245829_thumb.jpg

 

The form tool is then used to form the bulbs incremented .085 at a time along the 3/16 it is pushed in to the finished diameter then moved along the next .085" to then form the next bulb and so on until we get this configuration

 

post-202-0-72541900-1486246160_thumb.jpg

 

Then the stanchion is cut off the 3/16 with a jewelers saw, and clamped into the soft wood jaws for drilling with a #73 drill it is short because I broke it some time ago and had to resharpen it, this turned out to be a benefit because I was able to drill accurately without having to spot it first. Before drilling however I used the #6 cut file to give a tiny flat across the tops of the bulbs to give the drill a flat surface to start into.

 

post-202-0-30707100-1486246295_thumb.jpg

 

and they seemed to turn out alright.

 

post-202-0-60385000-1486245790_thumb.jpg

 

Having done this I have also realized why some of the stanchions are slightly different within one run of the handrail. I think that the stock of stanchions that were used by B&L were made in batches and the tool setting probably done with a screw cutting capstan lathe had very slightly different set ups of the stops with each batch and that from the bin of stanchions they were pulled without much regard for the very minor discrepancies. These are really only noticed when one gets as close to the detail as I have been doing.

 

Michael

 

 

 

 

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Brass can be cut with zero-rake tools. That's probably, why your broken drill works when ground flat ( which is, I assume, what you did ?). As it doen't have a point, it will not wander. I also made tiny end-mills from such broken drills.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

M-et-M-72.jpg  Banner-AKHS-72.jpg  Banner-AAMM-72.jpg  ImagoOrbis-72.jpg
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That's probably, why your broken drill works when ground flat ( which is, I assume, what you did ?)

Wefalck I have done the end mill out of broken drills too, in fact I have broken drills on purpose to get a particular diameter of end mill Mostly I have done this with number drills.

 

This drill however I sharpened by eye on my diamond stone like this.

 

post-202-0-40431300-1486257722.jpg

 

post-202-0-61696800-1486257741.jpg

 

And a better pic of the stanchions.

 

post-202-0-62638700-1486257804.jpg

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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Stanchions look great, Michael, even at large magnification. Would it have been a possibility to start with square section stock, drill the holes and then turn, or would cutting forces have snapped the work at the holes?

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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An interesting question Druxey

My thoughts on it;

1 I do not know how much stress would be imparted on the stock while turning, of which I see two issues first the need to hold it in a collet of some type for such small square stock after drilling. And second the need to work as close to the supporting collet or chuck to do the turning, machining square stock always has an intermittent cut until one gets to the round, this in itself is a jarring motion at such small diameters it could be a problem.

2 The drilling of the holes is in my view the least difficult part of the operation.

 

3 With small diameter parts that are long the difficulty is support, one has a few options i) a cradle similar to the ones that Ed Tosti has used for shaping belay pins, ii) starting with the base diameter and incrementally extending it from a chuck or collet working close to the collet. As the free end gets further away some form of end support from the tailstock end works, this often need to be a custom type extended one because the toolpost and tailstock often interfere with each other.

 

4 beginning with oversized round stock is an easy option because the stock itself acts like a superb collet as long as the free end gets completed incrementally there is the opportunity to accurately index toward the lathe collet until the work is completely turned, Experience has shown that this method produces the least vibration and chatter with form tools, and as Wefalck has already pointed out brass can be machined with zero rake which makes form tools easy to shape.

 

5 Some experimenting with the form tool is always needed it seems. I have a clamp for my Dremel flex shaft that I can clamp into the bench vise to form a miniature grinder and using the carborundum shaping block I can shape the green stones easily for making tiny negative curves in the form tool.

 

I hope this answers your question sorry its a bit long winded.

 

Michael

Edited by michael mott

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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I think Michael uses the right strategy. Starting with slightly oversize stock and working towards the collet keeps the flexing and vibrations to a minimum.

 

The type of brass is also important. I found most fine brass wires not very suitable for turning and use brass nails instead. Even, if sold as 'half-hard' they are usuall too soft. The reason is that copper and its alloys do not harden by heat, but only by 'working' them. Brass nails/pins are sort of stamped from wire and harden by the process.

 

It sounds attractive to first drill the holes, while the stock is still thick, but you will have two problems then: a) the interrupted cut, where the holes are, while turning will result in chatter and unclean surfaces, B) the stock is weakend, where the holes are.

 

Starting with square stock again sounds attractive, but you run into the above two problems, plus the fact that at this dimension and for the type of lathe we use, you will not find square collets. The four-jaw-chuck will not be precise enough for the purpose. This problem has actually been nagging me for years. The only square collets you can get a reasonable price are the 5C-type ones - way to big for my lathes. I have talked even to manufacturers for B8-collets (which is what I need), as with EDM and other modern manufacturing techniques, it could be possible to make some, but too expensive. I am still thinking of making some myself ... but this is digressing from the thread.

wefalck

 

panta rhei - Everything is in flux

 

 

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Nice work, Micheal.  The stanchions look fantastic.  Why not replace them all!  It never occurred to me to use old drill bits to make milling cutters.  Great idea.  I am still eagerly awaiting the results of that paint job on the side.  Did I miss it?

 

Ed

 

ps.  I had another thought on a tailstock center when there is interference with the tool holder.  As you may have seen I use tube in a tailstock chuck for supporting square wood turnings, but for brass wire perhaps a length of drill rod with a hole bored in the end could be used.  Its diameter would have to be large enough to keep it rigid.

Edited by EdT
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Thank you Michael and Wefalck, for the comprehensive and logical responses to my question. I assumed that there was good reason for using round rather than square stock, but now you've convinced me! I also hadn't thought through the fact that square collets are not available at those sizes.

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Thank you Wefalck for your detailed comments, The issue of very small collets for square stock is one that I have overcome to some degree using a round hole that has been cut with a slitting saw similar to the Dremel collets. this works well enough to put a round on the end of the small square stock. The comment about the type of brass is an important one, not all brass is equal when it comes to machining. I have found that some of the hobby brass rounds in the propriety hobby metal stands has been gummy to machine and the swarf comes off in long flexible curls instead of the crisp shavings of the free machining brass from the metal suppliers. That said the 3/16 and 1/4 brass that is in the Home Depot local store does machine very nicely.

 

Ed thanks for your kind words, you have not missed the paint restoration I have been letting the paint mature for a while before doing the final sanding and polishing. your suggestion of replacing all the stanchions on that damaged section is in fact the method that i am now pursuing. Just like everything else we do in this hobby it takes a while to get competent at doing a repetitive task. It took about 4 or five stanchions to get the system sorted for making consistent ones, this is now underway. I will be setting them into the deck after getting the colour right then threading the rail wire in situ after it is colored.

 

Druxey, questions such as yours are great because they give rise to considering all the alternatives as to why we choose the options that we do, which often sparks those "why didn't I think of that idea moment"

 

Thanks to everyone who have been quietly visiting as well.

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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