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Gaeta Falcata (Gajeta Falkusa) by jack.aubrey - FINISHED - Marisstella - 1:20 Scale


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She looks perfect from here, Jack.   I don't blame you on leaving the supports in place as sometimes our worst fears come true.  Better safe than sorry.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
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 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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  • 4 weeks later...

Friday & Saturday, March 17-18, 2017

 

Some few progress after nearly a month's absence . . A lot of work will be hidden with the bottom timbers :angry:

 

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See you soon, Jack.

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Nice work Jack, it's almost sad to see all that beautiful framing being hid

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Hello Mr. Jack ... this is a very beautifull build ... When we do with things like this, we just remove the flooring from its positions... So You could do the same... make the flooring and when the model is finished, just put them in the boat, but not at the correct position, this is the way the frames will be exposed. The model will look much more complicated ...


Regards, Zoran

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Monday, March 20, 2017

 

I finished the floor timbers installation . .
In the first three images you can see how all the work done during the installation of the ribs is almost completely hidden. The two numbered floor timbers that you see must be redone because I put the numbering on the wrong side. Just stuff.

 

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But I arranged that some timbers of the boat flooring can be removed; in this way it's possible to show, even if in a small way, the underlying work. The removable parts should be, once finished the model, spread properly on the boat bottom.

 

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I'm considering whether to treat the bottom with vinegar and iron wool, to make it aged. Similarly I made for the Gokstad viking ship model. I honestly do not know what to do because the only two, maybe three, Gajeta Falkusa existing today are recent replicas and, from their photos, they are beautiful new without any slightest aged area.

 

What would you think? 

 

Finally a sincere agreement with the comments from Don and Zoran. I really appreciate. 
Greetings, Jack.

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Looks fantastic from where I sit - I wouldn't change a thing - you have done this great little kit no small amount of justice, but that being said, you are not only the captain but also the owner of the vessel, so do as you wish, and from what I've seen of your work I'm sure it will turn out great...........Steve

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I myself would never cover that beautiful wood with anything but a clear finish, but how Steve has said you are the captain.

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one idea would be to use transparent wood tint, which would allow all the wood detail to be seen.  But as the other modellers said, you are at the steering wheel.  I'm so glad I signed in to this build log! (this is where I wanted to put a happy emoticon, but did not find them (sad emoticon!))

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Wednesday, March 22, 2017

 

As anticipated, I selected a solution for the floor timbers not requiring aging. So I decided to dye lightly the limewood timbers, in my opinion too white. Accidentally happened that the dye was not uniformly absorbed by the wood and therefore has assumed a barely lived look.

 

Below I then begun to install additional decks at bow and stern, which are slightly raised above the main one. When finished they will be obviously dyed.

 

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Regards, Jack.

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Friday, March 24, 2017

 

I completed the installation of the prow and poop floor timbers. Here I've also left some timbers removable in order to show the underlying parts.
I've also installed two side stringers.

 

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Regards, Jack.

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Tuesday, March 28, 2017

 

A new small step forward: I have corrected a blunder that I discovered in the execution of the two floor decks at bow and stern. Now these two "decks" have the right length, 'cause before were too long, although on the plans there aren't the two small lateral extensions which unfortunately I could not totally eliminate.
I hope that the replica shipbuilders will forgive me. For me this detail introduces an aesthetically improved element [cursing] [cursing] [cursing] 

 

Previously I installed, not without some difficulty, the two side counterwales. Unlike the stringer, the engravings on the counterwale are two. Now I became a master in its execution. When the boat will be completed with the so-called "falke", there will be three wales/counterwales per side, two outside of the hull, one inside.

 

Now it's time to study in deep the assembly instructions in cojunction with the plans to setup a proper planning for the next steps.
They are not so obvious . .

 

Salutoni, Jack.

 

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Thursday, March 30, 2017

 

More details, the job begins to get interesting and fun. Now I'm back for 4/5 days in Milan, I plan to return to Pisa next Tuesday. So do not expect news soon.

 

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Hi Jack.

Just stunning work. A pleasure to watch.

 

Regards Antony.

Best advice ever given to me."If you don't know ..Just ask.

Completed Mayflower

Completed Fun build Tail boat Tailboat

Completed Build Chinese Junk Chinese Pirate Junk

Completed scratch built Korean Turtle ship 1/32 Turtle ship

Completed Santa Lucia Sicilian Cargo Boat 1/30 scale Santa Lucia

On hold. Bounty Occre 1/45

Completed HMS Victory by DeAgostini modelspace. DeAgostini Victory Cross Section

Completed H.M.S. Victory X section by Coral. HMS Victory cross section

Completed The Black Pearl fun build Black Queen

Completed A large scale Victory cross section 1/36 Victory Cross Section

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tuesday, April 11, 2017

 

The work is progressing well, not at high speed, but it goes well and I'm having fun. 
Today I finished the two decks at bow and stern and then I better refined the gunwale. I'm glad I guessed the suitable wood for decks. When I was back to Cinisello I did a little research in my personal timber store and found these light walnut strips that make a good contrast with the color of the other boat elements. Those supplied by the kit seemed me too dark for these task.

 

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Now I must understand what are the next steps, so I have to study the plans/instructions to decide the correct sequence for installing the other details. However, the date of my return to Cinisello approaches and I definitely will not be able to finish this model in time. I must then decide whether to let him in Pisa waiting to complete it on my return next fall or bring it with me in Cinisello and finish it there, similarly as I did with the Viking ship model. 

 

Should I decide for the latter, of course the other model (Brick de 24) I have in the shipyard at home would still remain idle.

 

Sincerely yours, Jack.

 

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Thursday and Friday, April 13-14, 2017

 

At the end I decided to install the seats . . .


There were some difficulties to solve, so I decided to do a test with some unused material. The first difficulty was to bend the strip which constitutes the seat, giving it a humpbacked curvature that was stable and, above all, reproducible in four equal pieces. At the end I opted for bonding two strips held to dry in a jig having per proper shape which gives it, once the glue is dried, an right curve.

Then I had to solve the problem of how to insert the seat in the right place. The following photo shows the solution I found.

 

01 - 20170413_143920.jpg

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Picture 02 shows the method I used to obtain the required shape for the seat.

 

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The remaining images show the final result. I think it's a good achievement . .

 

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More significant images will follow soon. Salutoni, Jack.

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Monday and Tuesday, April 17/18 2017

 

It 's time to get myself dirty with brushes and colors . .

 

More precisely I painted with a matt acrylic white part of the gunwales.
 
For the first time I experienced the suggestion I received sometime ago from a friend modeler (expert in plastic modelling) that explained me the trick to prevent paint managing to sneak under the masking tape. The trick is to apply a coat of transparent (and matt in this case) paint on the border area between the masking tape and the part to be painted before using the final color paint. This clear paint seals the microscopic cracks that inevitably form . . It works great, thank you rudyf-104.

 

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I have also painted two wood strips in white: these are the wales to be applied immediately below the gunwale. My only problem: I do not know why but the acrylic white covering was poor and I had to apply many coats before obtaining a proper color. Luckily with the hairdryer trick I did not have to wait the paint getting dry between coats.

 

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Finally I proceeded to color with black acrylic the outer part of the hull, leaving for the moment unpainted the part where the wales will be installed, still to be completed and glued. I will do this task in the coming days.

 

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Greetings, Jack.

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Wednesday 19 April 2017

 

I installed the wales on top of the hull, just below the gunwales. Then I had to do some minor adjustments to cover the small damages caused during the gluing of these strips and, finally, a coat of matt transparent paint, or rather, slightly satin. 


The real boat is completely polished black, but in a model I think a polished finish is not much suitable, so I opted for a compromise: a satin matt finish.

 

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Regards, Jack.

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Thursday 20 April 2017

 

My stay in Tuscany is now approaching the end: next week I will be to the island of Elba for a short vacation that will allow me to see the island in the spring; people say it's very beautiful. Then again another 15 days and then I will return to Cinisello.

The next important step for completing this model is the construction of the so-called "falke" (I think it is translated in frisate), but for me this is an activity that is still to be understood, so I prefer to delay it when I'll resume work on this model.
So now I'm carrying on small "integrative" activities like the one described below with images. These are tables that are positioned fairly freely, between seats and having different functions . .

 

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Surely an important function is to serve as a table for the food, which is necessary to bring on board as these boats were in the sea from early morning to late evening . .

 

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Another usage was to make life a little more comfortable on board, adding more seats . .

 

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But, I think, the main function is to allow rowers to do their job, the picture below shows how the rowers work and we can understand that these boards put them in the most suitable position for rowing effectively . .

 

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These are details not provided in the kit, but can be seen in the photographs of the real boats, so why  omit them ?

 

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To next time, Jack.

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