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Liquitex modeling paste to prime a hull? (edited by admin)


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Hi, Les...

No, I have not, and I have never seen the need to.

I just sand my first planking with coarse sandpaper to make it a bit rough, so the second planking adheres better.

I use wood glue and nothing else all the time. Dedicated wood glues, (Titebond, Elmer's, Gorilla) make a very strong bond when used on clean wood to clean wood.

Never had a problem in my past 4 builds, or the completed hull planking in my present Royal Louis.

Hope this helps.

 

Best regards.

Edited by Ulises Victoria

There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT.

 

Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina.

Last finished projectsRoyal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons

 

Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90;

Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models.

 

So much to build, so little time!

 

 

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I use Elmer's white glue, but whatever you use, the glue needs to soak in to both surfaces for a good bond.  Any sealer between layers of plank might interfere with that.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Im curious about this topic too since I know acrylic modeling paste is stable and a viable material for building up thickness in artistic painting. On the market and available in stores are a LOT of products that do the same thing: Spackle, wood filler, rock hard water putty, and many more. The acrylic though appeals to my sense of "archival" meaning its been formulated for painting -and thus longevity-and can meet standards of ph neutrality.

But on the other hand as far as I know it was never designed to be sandable and never dries to a very hard surface- the nature of the acrylic base is that its always going to be a little bit rubbery. I wind up using it in very small quantities for filling in very small gaps and fairing over joints I want to be smoother. But above a certain size of gap I dont think its the right material to select due to that rubbery factor and its sandability issues.

  

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Comes in a 4.06 US fl oz/120 ml tube.

How much of this stuff do you need? at your scale I would have thought that a tube would last a lifetime :D

 

Michael

Current builds  Bristol Pilot Cutter 1:8;      Skipjack 19 foot Launch 1:8;       Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14 1:8

Other projects  Pilot Cutter 1:500 ;   Maria, 1:2  Now just a memory    

Future model Gill Smith Catboat Pauline 1:8

Finished projects  A Bassett Lowke steamship Albertic 1:100  

 

Anything you can imagine is possible, when you put your mind to it.

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When I did my Endevour (see link in signature) I first use modelling paste. Didn't liked it. Then I used sanding sealer as base and after this a lot of Tamiya plastic putty and Tamiya primer. This were on the upper part of the hull to get the high gloss shiny steal hull (not easy with wooden planking).

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

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Oh not really an answer on the question.. But I also used the modelling paste on the first planking to prepare for second planking. Didn't liked it and to be honest, after it was done it was actually not needed. Now I use normal wood putty if I need to fill anything.

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

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