Lady Nelson by mmotherw - Amati/Victory Models - Scale 1:64

[mmotherw]

Hi,

I bought a model 25 years ago, the Baltimore Clipper Sidmouth 1815 by Constructo. Started on the keel, bulkheads and false deck and then got stuck. Having no internet in those days that was the end, but I was good and kept everything in theirs packets. So hopefully have not done to much damage and will be able to finish it later.

 

 

So I realised that the model was to difficult for me and having read information here decided to start on a easier model, the Lady Nelson which I do like the look of.

 

 

So I've bought the various tools and model and starting my build log, as I know I'm going to need help. I also had an attempt at building my own keel clamp, which after a couple of modification seems to work.

 

 

Now time to read the instructions, study the plans and look at few build logs and we're off.....

[Tigersteve]

Best of luck! Lots of talented folks on here to help you.

Steve

[tkay11]

Great to have another cutter on the block. Looking forward to your build. As you've seen, there are lots of builds you can refer to. The Sherbourne is very similar to the Lady Nelson in construction, so have a look at Gregor's, Dubz's and Stockholm Tar's builds for some really fine work and hints. I learnt a lot from them, as well as from very many other builds on this forum.

 

Tony

[Dutchman]

Nice! Another thread to follow! I'm building her myself right now. Have fun! And thanks for mentioning the Baltimore clipper. That looks like a fine model to build as well. I'll keep her in mind.

[mmotherw]

Hi,

I've done a parts check and I've a couple of questions for those who have built the Lady Nelson.

 

1 the parts list has 3 gratings but I do not seem to have them. There is a bag of parts which look like they would make the gratings thou so is this bag the gratings?

2 the brass stand posts have a hole through them but should there be bolts or screws which go through these holes?

 

Thanks for any help

 

Mark

[Rick01]

The "bag of parts" is the unassembled grating. :-) No there were no nuts and bolts with the brass stands.

 

Rick 

[mmotherw]

Thanks Rick,

nice to know I've got all the parts. I guess you use a piece of dowelling in the stand posts to go into the keel to fix it.

[Rick01]

Actually I've never used the brass fittings as they don't seem to fit to well.I use the wooden cradle either stained or painted. If you're going to use a "pin" between the fitting and the keel you'll need to drill the holes on th keel well before any deck fittings go on.

 

Rick

[Borborygm]

I'm building the LN myself but not doing a build log because I'm using Bob Hunt's LN dvd practicum and promised not to divulge his techniques. I'm not too far ahead of you so I will give you some non-Hunt tips if I can and also inform you of my errors as I discover them. I've almost finished fairing the bulkheads; next step is cutting the rabbit joint.

 

I'm curious about the model shown in your clamp photo. Why are the bulkhead tops cut off at that stage? How will the bulwarks be attached?

 

Cy

[Dutchman]

Now that you mention it, yes, why are the bulkhead tops already cut off? Aren't you supposed to to do that until much later?

Edited December 2, 2016 by Dutchman

[Borborygm]

 

I wrote "next step is cutting the rabbit joint"

Point of clarification, I will not be butchering any rabbits as I implied in my first post. I will be cutting the rabbet joint, also known as a rebate...and getting a check in the mail?

[mmotherw]

Hi,

The keel clamp shot at the begin is the clipper ship I started 25 years ago not the Lady Nelson so hence no bulkhead tops.

 

Hopefully will be starting on the model soon.

[Dutchman]

Ah, that explains it. Well, I hope the LN isn't going to take 25 years as well Okay, we'll stay around and stick some planks on some bulkheads here and there and patiently wait for you to begin. 

[mmotherw]

Christmas is over and the New Year has started so time to make a start on the Lady Nelson.

 

I took the bulkheads off the sheet and tidied the edges and did a dry fitting and found that a few sat a bit lower than the top of the false keel. Having read a few blogs I saw that adding a small bit of card was a simple way to raise them, so I did that first and that brought them in line.

 

 

I then found that the bulkheads were loose and could rock side wards so I was worried that they may not glue in place horizontially so I added more padding on the sides to make them a tighter fit.

 

 

I've not glued them in place yet, I'm going to bevel them first. That's coming next....

Edited January 4, 2017 by mmotherw

[mmotherw]

Well I've started removing wood  and the beveling of the bulkheads. I've done the front and back 3. I think they may need a bit more, but I was thinking may be glue them in place first, as I want to fill between stem and bulkhead 2 and between 9 and 10, so I can get a better angle (SimonD has a very nice example of filled bulkheads).  I have tested with a plank for fit but having never done this before I can't be to sure of flow of the plank.

 

Also not sure whether to do a rabbit or not, there seems to be mixed reports on this one with the keel becoming very thin. I'm interest in any advice.

 

 

[Overworked724]

Good Luck! Building this same model myself...but got sidetracked temporarily on a solid hull model!

[mmotherw]

Thanks Patrick, I have your build log on my follow list.

 

I noticed you put the deck on before doing the fillers, would it be easier to do them before the deck is in place ?

[Rick01]

Fillers then deck - I'm building this model and that (to me) is much the better way.

 

Rick

[vossiewulf]

At this point I have to ask who ISN'T building Lady Nelson.

[FormerNavalPerson]

At this point I have to ask who ISN'T building Lady Nelson.

I am not. But that is only because the kit hasn't arrived yet 

 

Interestingly, Cornwall Model Boats are out of stock on this one. Shows it must be in high demand.

[vossiewulf]

That's because the rest of us also bought from Cornwall. Oops!

[Rick01]

Basically true!!

 

Rick

[mmotherw]

Ok it's been a while but have made a some progress on the bulkhead fillers. I've only done the first two and last two, not sure if I need to do the 3rd's. For my first piece of carving I'm quite pleased, but if you see anything wrong please let me know.

 

So I guess next is to glue down the false decking and add the Prow and the Keel, might leave the Rudder Post off until I've done the first layer of planking.

 

 

 

[vossiewulf]

Go read my build log Mark, I recommend filler blocks the whole way if you can stand it, also will show you a whole series of issues to avoid and how to handle double planking on a keel plate that is a smaller width than four layers of planking is.

[mmotherw]

Hi Vossiewulf, I've been following your build log and I think some of the things you are doing are a bit advanced for me. But I'm looking forward to your second planking layer. 

[vossiewulf]

Oh I'm not recommending you follow all my steps, just see the places where I found things out of alignment or otherwise problematic, like the bulwark strips and their crazy top line and confusing gunports.

 

In this case you should see where I eventually added filler/reinforcement to all of the inter-bulkhead gaps because in every case if you don't, the first planks will not follow a fair line but have flats between bulkheads that are at best hard to totally remove, and they will flex under sanding leading to dips that need filler. But at the same time to make it right, those filler block outlines need to follow the correct curves, you can't just sand them flat or you have the same problem.

 

If I did it over, I'd use filler blocks everywhere.

 

That said, what you have looks good. One thing you should do now also is ensure perfect symmetry on the last transom frame - make a template from one side and flip it over and make the other side match. I didn't do that and had some annoying work to get it right later.

[vossiewulf]

Another one, make sure the bearding lines established by the lower parts of your filler blocks are exactly symmetric and the bulkheads on both sides end the exact same distance from the keel. When I went to cut the rabbet for the first planking I found my two bearding lines looked good but didn't agree in places up to 1/32" and that would have been replicated to the planking and the finished model.

 

I didn't do this, but if you want to be sure of hull symmetry you can use paper strips, cut one and make it follow one of the bulkhead sides and cut it to the exact length of one side, then lay it on the other side of the bulkhead; if they match you're good.

[Sailor1234567890]

Any progress lately?

[mmotherw]

Hi,

I have done a bit, put on the false decking and the bulwarks. I did have a bit of a problem I had filed down my fillers a bit to much so had to apply filler to pad out. Been a bit busy with sunshine and golf but studying the planking. Been reading various blogs, measuring bulkheads and planning but I think I just need to have a go, experience counts. I don't want to get scared off by how well some people do the job. I need to fail to succeed, it is my first model.

[Rick01]

Just take it slow and remember that the first layer of planking can be experimented with and will take a reasonable amount of sanding. Any problems arising don't hesitate to ask if you're at all unsure - we've all been there with our first (and with me 2nd, 3rd etc) models.