Dirty Dozen Abalone Fishing Boat by xken - Finished

[Jim Lad]

Excellent work, Ken, she's really looking the part.

 

John

[Omega1234]

Hi Ken

 

Happy New Year!  Your work on this boat is lovely!

 

I'm looking forward to your next update.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[xken]

John, Patrick thank you! Yesterday I learned that the Dirty Dozen was used in the 1977 Disney movie "Sultan and the Rock Star" will have to check it out.

 

Here is a sequence of fabricating the dive ladder that stored along the deck rail and then folded down and pivoted into the water. This ladder was salvaged and will be part of the display in the museum.

 

The challenge was getting a tight fit on the pivot bracket to keep the ladder parallel to the deck when stored.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now to the chain bracket on the bow.

[xken]

I have been busy with the grand kids and working on the small accessories on the lathe making parts for them.

Here is the bow anchor chain guide for lack of a better word.

 

 

 

I also made the engine exhaust with a 3/8" diameter tube.

 

 

I also reworked the sliding door handle with the proper wood one.

 

 

I then moved onto the handrails that attach to the sides of the bridge. First six identical stanchions had to be turned on the lathe. This is where the precision of the Sherline comes into play.

 

 

 

 

 

Next I made the cabin vents using both copper and brass parts soldered together. I 1/4" diameter copper hemispheres were made using my wife's dapping block.

 

 

 

 

 

I then started on the boat bell that will mount of the forward angled bridge wall. Here is the bell with the integrated sling mount drilled with a 1/32" hole to attach to the hanging bracket. 

 

 

Happy New Year to all builders around the world!

 

 

[Omega1234]

Happy New Year Ken!

 

I love your metal work skills and your ability to make things look so easy.

 

Is this really your first scratch build, because you've got some masterful skills there, that's for sure!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[xken]

Patrick, my first scratch built boat but not my first scratch built model. I have scratch built WWI airplanes, WWII Planes, a MASH helicopter, a functioning 1/8 scale 1911 Model T board track racer and the list goes on. Just new to ship building.

[dvm27]

Holy cow, Ken! I knew this would be an awesome build (I have your book) but you have exceeded all expectations. A question - are all the fittings temporarily secured? If not, how will you achieve the expert paint job I know you'll apply?

 

Happy New Years and looking forward to many new postings from you. And don't forget the fire extinguisher from the real ships photo!

[Omega1234]

Hi Ken

 

Thanks. Please, please, please post some photos in the other Models Forum for us!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[xken]

Patrick, it would be easier if you just google my name Ken Foran many have posted my work at various sites depending upon the subject. My real interest is WWI airplanes. Look for the Sopwih Camel that was a commission for Fine Art Models and they recently sold the prototype model with the spare engine.

[xken]

Greg, yes all things are pinned for removal to paint the main hull and cabin. I learned that lesson years ago. As I have said before, model building is sometimes like playing chess and having to think two or three steps ahead to keep yourself out of trouble.

[Jim Lad]

Beautiful detail work, Ken.

 

John

[xken]

Did some cleanup on the dashboard and glued the gauges in place for now and made a rear placement support bracket for the dash to hold it in place.

 

I then made the steering wheel with a brass support structure for the center spokes and rim and then the mahogany rim was formed in two parts and glued to the brass rim. Inside and outside rim surfaces were then filed and sanded to blend smooth. I drilled and tapped the mahogany dash holes with a #61 drill bit and 00-90 tap. I then hardened the wood threads with CA and once the CA good and set I re-tapped them to clean them up.

 

 

Added the support bracket for the bell and used a 000-120 cap screw to free hang. Next came the control box and handles. They were taper turned with a ball on the end starting with 5/32" bar stock. The main box was solid brass and a mounting plate soldered to the bottom.

 

 

 

 

Next a piano hinge and propeller with rudder. However, I may have to make a support base before adding the rudder assembly. I also am still searching for a brass compass that was mounted in the upper surface in front of the steering wheel.

 

 

[xken]

After building a working base for handling I started on the drive assembly. First I cut the parts for the bearing support for the drive shaft.

 

 

 

I also cut and assembled the rudder with a 5/32" shaft incorporating a pivoting stop pinned to the top of the shaft. The completed rudder with bearing press fitted into hull.

 

 

Then came my first attempt at a propeller. Not being familiar at all with propellers or having the real one for reference I did some research and checking with the maritime people and we settled on a three bladed design that was common for the period for this style of working boat.

 

Here is a sequence showing the build process. The blade spins by hand and the rudder turns.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now to make the two different sizes and types of cleats and lights. 

[Jim Lad]

Looking really good, Ken.  As you've made everything else, why not make the compass as well?

 

John

[xken]

I have enjoyed Moro Bay many times, so I'll stick around to watch you build your abalone fishing boat.

 

I had hoped to build the fishing boat "Wind Walker" at one time and took many pictures which have since been lost.  Is she still there?

 

 

Capt'n Bob,

These are for you. Look what I found today at the north pier.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I hope these will help and if you need more detail pictures let me know. 

 

 

[captainbob]

Thanks, Ken.  That's her and still with all the same mess she was in so many years ago.  My memory said she is 40 - 50 feet long but the pictures look more like 60 feet.  Does that seem about right?

 

Bob

[xken]

Bob, I think you may be correct at 60 feet, next time I am down there I will pace it off for a better guesstimate. Look the pictures over and if you need some detail shots let me know and I can take them as well.

[xken]

John, yes I will probably make a generic compass sine I have no reference for the original other than the 8 inch hole in the top surface of the bridge.

 

I the meantime I could not find a source for a piano hinge as small as I needed I decided to make my own. Again the CAD drawing was used to develop the hinge tab length and size and one side drawn then copied and mirror imaged then rotated. I used .005" aluminum to replicate the stainless steel look of the original. Here is the process in photos of making the hatch hinge.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now to make the large and small cleats while I keep checking for compass images that may work.

 

 

[dvm27]

A Master Class in metal work, Ken!

[Omega1234]

Hi Ken

 

Now, that hinge is seriously nice!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[xken]

Greg, Patrick thanks again! Here is a sequence explaining the making of the cleats both large and small but the ones being shown are the small ones. Of particular interest is the soldering to a handle for holding these small parts while working on them. This is one big advantage of working with brass on small parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next I made the antenna located on the starboard side which was still on the boat when I photographed it.

 

 

 

This is for John, here is the generic compass as since this is for display I decided not to make it with working gimbals which I have done in two of my WWI planes. I created an image and cleaned it up in Photoshop and reduced it to 1/2" size and printed it on photo paper which gives a cleaner image than plain paper. It was glued in place and then 5 minute epoxy was used to create the domed lense. Note that the closeup camera lense sees things the human eye at distance does not. It is actually much clearer than the picture shows.

 

 

 

Next to the two fire extinguishers.  

 

 

[Omega1234]

Hi Ken

 

Ok.  The brass work I can accept as skilfully and masterfully crafted.  But...that domed glass (epoxy) on the compass is like the icing on the cake.

 

I'm learning heaps, Ken; learning heaps...     ... !!!!

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[xken]

Patrick, I am glad you enjoyed the "icing" I used this technique for many years for instruments on cars and airplanes. Capillary action of liquids works great for doming. For the larger instruments like the compass a toothpick was used to transfer the epoxy and help it flow to the edge since you have to work quickly.

 

The fire extinguishers started with turning the aluminum tanks first and drilling the neck end to receive the locating pins for the nozzles. The nozzle assembly started by turning 3/32" hex bar down and then drilled. Next the gauge was milled to form the shoulder for the gauge face that will be epoxied later. The handles were then cut, formed, indexed on the locating pin for the tanks and through the hex bar and soldered in place. The tanks and nozzles are press fit for now to allow easier painting when the time comes. I also made the locating rings out of mahogany which are just set in place for now. They were on the real boat as seen in the picture below.

 

 

 

 

 

Now to work on getting ready for the board meeting this evening. It will be raining here so I will need to devise a transport carrier and cover.

[Chidokan]

are you making the engine? Reason I ask is that I have worked at Cummins in the marine section for over 30 years and am wondering which one it is!

[xken]

I will only make a dummy up so it kind of looks like an engine in the compartment. Here is the info I took off the nameplate: engine# 516985; piston 195120; crankshaft 160940; RPM 2800; Horsepower 320.

 

Also here are a couple of images.

 

 

 

 

Let us know what model or name. Thanks Ken

[bdgiantman2]

Having seen your presentation during the NRG meeting in San Diego, I know you will do a modeling of the engine. This build is getting exciting and has been fun to follow. Keep up the great work, Ken.

 

Brian

[FriedClams]

Hello Ken,

 

I've been following your build (which is coming along beautifully ) and decided to take a peak at some of your other completed models online. I found your work on craftsmanshipmuseum.com and I am beyond impressed. Your models are simply stunning. Your Sopwith Camel and Model T are jaw dropping. I look forward to seeing this build progress.

 

Gary

[xken]

I turned the horn using aluminum and had to make it in two parts; the main body and the base. 

 

 

 

The board meeting went extremely well and the model was well received and all started planning a diorama display while I was presenting it to them.

 

Now that the meeting is over I stripped down the boat and started applying auto body glazing putty to the obvious joints and areas that needed it like butt joints, dings and scratches that happen as part of the build process. I will now be sanding, priming and painting parts and allowing them to cure. Primer will raise the grain so a couple of sanding and priming operations will be involved.

 

 

 

Now to the messy sanding,  most of the models I have previously built did not require this much painting. 

 

Here is an image of the Glazing and Spot Putty I used, bought at local AutoZone. 

 

 

Edited February 20, 2017 by xken

[Chidokan]

thanks for engine info, can let you know shortly.... I was thinking of doing 3D models of the engines I make in 1/72, as there is a couple of boats in that scale.... I repowered an old MTB a couple of years back and airfix make the kit, so would like to make it for my desk at work.

[Tigersteve]

Wow- painting already! Seems like you just started on this project. Awesome!

Steve