Triton Cross Section by ChadB (Chach_86) - FINISHED

36 posts in this topic

18. Filling out the Gunports


I was fooling around with making anchor stock wales (which is a little trickier than I thought) and decided to put it aside for a while and go ahead and finish the gunports. Since the gunwales are going to be done in bloodwood to simulate red paint, I went ahead and did the sills and lintels in bloodwood also. I also added a thin veneer to the sides to complete it. Since the insides of the gunports will be the only parts showing, it looks a little rough around the edges (literally). I just made sure the joints on the inside were nice and tight and that planking on the outside and inside will lay flat and not leave any gaps. -Chad 



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19. Anchor Stock Planking


I decided to give anchor stock planking for my wales a go instead of the four basic strakes in the plans. I used Peter Goodwin't book on the English Man of War for most of the information. There was a fantastic write up on lengths and just general information on them. So far I've found this book a great investment and a good sidekick to the cross section. 

The very fist thing I learned is that just winging it on a tablesaw will just give you a heap of ebony scrap and leave you a couple bucks short from having to replace it.  So once I got rolling I started by drawing out a template to get sizes and angles. I figured that each plank will have to be pretty exact for them all to fit together nicely, so this was a good starting point. Unfortunately I'm a computer idiot so yes- that is an 
actual picture of a drawing . 
Next I cut up some ebony making sure all the planks were exactly the same size, specifically 4.5 inches long- which is really important. Then I went about making a jig for the tablesaw that would slide against the fence and cut at the correct angle. I find pictures better than trying to describe- so here's what I came up with. I will not that keeping all the planks the exact size was important to make sure they fit snugly in the jig and didn't bounce around while cutting. 
From here everything was pretty simple. The only other note would be that I found ebony is some nasty stuff. It gets all over the place and chips easily, so I tried to give everything a once over to make sure the cuts didn't take any extra. Also, since everything is enclosed in the jig when making the initial cut the triangular piece left over tries to shoot down between the blade and the table, which caused some problems the first few times. I aleviated the situation by using a footpedal to stop and start the saw and stop right before cutting all the way through and just breaking the little triangle off... 
I would then just pop it back in the jig and finish that side. Afterward, I just turned it around, made sure it was seated in the jig against the left side and repeated. This was when a footpedal came in handy since I used a pushstick to hold the piece in place. 
From there it was just repeating until I had enough (about double whats in the photo for both sides) 
After this, fitting them to the frames was simple. Since each side only has 1 full anchor stock and the rest were partial, it was just cutting most up to fit them here and there, but because of the exactness in making 
them they all fit well. This can be seen in the photo. which needed some glare to actually see where all of them join! 
So once the wales were done and I was contemplating the deck beams, I gave wales, hold and frames that will be seen a coat of wipe on poly. On a separate note- I didn't realize how bad the photos of the hold were (I think my camera is on the way out) until I went back and looked, so here's where I stand now.. -Chad

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I'm so glad that this build was reposted. Reading it and digesting the contents make me want to dive into parts of the build that I have not come to yet. So many techniques and ideas to choose from. How can one not learn with so many shipwrights sharing a vast amount of knowledge. Thank you all.

mtaylor, tkay11 and ChadB like this

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Small note on treenails: I use the same method as you, and after some practice it works fairly ok. But it is more efficient to use a long strip of wood instead of a short ones - you spend roughly the same time per strip, but get much longer treenail material in the end ;)

Great log, thanks for posting!

mtaylor, Dupree Allen and Canute like this

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Hi Chad,


Thanks for posting this again, I already learned a lot...

Just one question about the treenails, I have looked in the other logs but I can't find one where the wales were treenailed (maybe difficult to see it he images?). In the case of your wales (and some others) you used ebony. In that case the treenails should be made of ebony as well, right? How difficult it will be to make the treenails with the method you used?



Canute and mtaylor like this

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Dupree- Glad it is helping you! That was the whole purpose when I started and am glad it wasn't lost forever.


Mike- I'll have to give it a shot as I'm thinking I should get started soon with them on my current build. Thanks for the tip!


Anguirel- You are correct in that the treenails would be ebony, but I ended up skipping on the wales because it would be an exercise in frustration to pull ebony through a drawplate. Ebony is a beautiful wood, but my God is it a bear to work with. It is very hard and brittle, so I would think every piece you pull through would eith not pull through or break. Also, the ebony is so dark and sands to  such  polish that the treenails would be very tough to see. I could probably do some digging tomorrow and try to find out an answer on the treenail pattern, though.



mtaylor and Canute like this

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